Looks a lot like the big bag of KGD cotton I got from Japan, you should get a lot more than four wicks per pad
Unless you be rollin' some humongous wicks there Hobbs 
I figure that there bag o' cotton would last me ten years or so...
So last night I ordered seven of the 510/P3 adaptor rings from ProVarifuel, and no shipping notification yet, how quick do them guys ship if anybody has ordered recently?
I want to have extra rings in case any get locked up like I had happen early on with one of my Ti ProVari's...
I want to have extra rings in case any get locked up like I had happen early on with one of my Ti ProVari's...
E, I recently ordered a 10 pack of Kabuki glass from ProVarifuel. Took like 2-3 business days before it shipped and I got tracking information, then maybe like 3-5 postal days before it was here ... took like a week I think.
EDIT: Found it ... I ordered from them on 9/25 ... tracking says delivered in mail box 9/30 ... that was a Monday to Saturday inclusive. Not bad. Best part ... nothing broken !!!
EDIT: Found it ... I ordered from them on 9/25 ... tracking says delivered in mail box 9/30 ... that was a Monday to Saturday inclusive. Not bad. Best part ... nothing broken !!!
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I placed an order for some springs and P3 adapters yesterday at noon. No shipment notification yet either.
Amazing pic
Thanks, them adaptors round out my parts bin, i kinda put off ordering more of them till now, once they are gone...
My son normally vapes 60-70 watts and he decided to see how high he could go one day, pushed it up around 120-130 watts while on the phone with me, took a drag, coughed, then said this is good ****...
I laughed at him and told him it sounded like he was doing drugs not vaping..
My thought, vaping shouldn't sound like that... but, as my husband says.. kids these days.
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Just got my USPS ship notification.
I tried the P3 Kabuki thing for a couple weeks, didn't really like having the condensate on the pin. For me the whole P3 connector thing was a big fail. Early on I thought you use the outer ring to tighten up to an attie with a longer 510 thread. Yeah, that didn't work out too well, I still got the Subtank with teeth marks in it from the huge pliers that were required to break the locked up attie and ring set.
If I had a lathe, I'd be turning some rings from different materials with the inner hole bored just slightly larger than the threads, slip on style.
This is me now when the Others are looking. Hey look at me !!! ... not a single cloud
Thank goD for 1.8ohms @ 8.4-8.8W ... and not smoking. And yes, thank ProVari ... not dead yet
curious about your 'ostrich' back there...
I get that drop of condensate too, but other than that I've never had any leakage through the airhole, and that is the only tank I've ever used that did not piss me off over leaks, including the Nautilus. And my 510 pin at least sometimes gets wet with any other atty I use, dripper or tank. What tank are you using that never, ever leaks, anywhere?
The P3 is also a better electrical connection because it eliminates the pin (usually a screw) between the factory coil and the positive pin (the coil making direct contact with the positive pin). The fewer mechanicl links in the electrical chain, the lower the internal device resistance. I think all that's worth a drop of condsate on the pin. Trade-offs, but well worth it for me.
What I really like about the P3 connector is that you can remove the 510 adapter and more easily clean out the connector, and then soak the adapter parts in alcohol and otherwise clean them up. I like to use a rubber eraser to clean the contact pin and other electrical pins but a No 2 standard eraser barely fits in a 510 hole, and the erasers are barely tall enough, such that after a couple of cleanings I have to throw the pencil away and start with a new one. And at best I can barely twirl it, where in the P3 connector I can scrub it more vigorously. Because of that my P3 connectors are better maintained.
I also liked the fact that when Provape was in business, a galled 510 adapter could be easily replaced. But now it's a fairly expensive stockpile item
"I still got the Subtank with teeth marks in it from the huge pliers that were required to break the locked up attie and ring set. "
That's why you're supposed to use some cloth or a rubber jar opener under the plier jaws
I've never tried to lift the beauty ring because all that does is put that tiny gap below the beauty ring, rather than above it. I'll be sure never to that now! I can't visualize why that would lock it all together but I'll take your word for it.
I like the Kabuki a lot better than the Nautilus, better flavor and a little better airflow. I've never tried the 0.7 BVC coils but have a pack in the mail. I think that will give even better airflow?
I normally vape a dripper at about 30W, but that can't be done on my P2.5 or P3, and if I do that on my Radius I go through batteries too quickly to be practical. So I need something like the Kabuki (a Tootle rig) to make the P2.5 work, and I need to run 10W max to make the Radius work at all, except at home when I can rotate to a spare.
My favorite dripper, for flavor, are my Royal Hunter Minis. They are similar to Derringers but better than the clone I own. The Kabuki, at about 10W, actually delivers slightly more flavor than the RH at 20W (configured as double simple 27ga, 3mm ID, 7/8 wraps, dual coil). Although the Kabuki doesn't have as much airflow as I would like, at least with the 1.8R coils I've used (that measure out at 2.0-2.2R). Considering that the RH is the most flavorful dripper I've yet used, I'm impressed.
If I could find a rebuildable tank that is as leak-proof as the Kabuki, with as much flavor at about 10W, and more airflow I would buy it. But I really don't want to spend $500 chasing that.
My two big issues with the Kabuki: factory coils. I like to minimize my consumable cost, and deeming is a big issue, although that may be put off for 4 years. The other issue is that while the quartz glass tubes are very nice, they are 10 bucks apiece and I broke mine after only about 3 coils. After reading all the other complaints in the big Kabuki thread I started to think of the tubes as a very expensive consumable, along with the coils. Kind of like buy a tube with every pack of coils
. I did see that Provarifuel sells a 10 pack of tubes for $70, which is a more realistic price. And I might need a stockpile like that Mine cracked at the top of the tube and I then decided not to separate the atty top from the tube unless I have to, and I'll see if the tubes last longer that way. And there is probably no compelling reason to separate the tube for routine cleaning.
Anyway, that's my Kabuki/P3 story. If you've found something otherwise comparable I'd like to know about, RTA or not.
@VNeil, I'm using 510 Kabuki, and P3 Kabukis with the 510 base, I Prefer the condensate to be trapped in the attie base. One of my P3 adaptor bases I needed to remove the center pin and replaced it with a slightly longer brass pin, contact issues.
As to the marred tank, the reason it occurred is due to the differing thread pitches, which is what makes a good locknut lock so well. It was a poorly thought out design. There was no removing the rings, freezer, heat gun, heat gun and cold plunge, nothing worked. Tried leather for protection but it just rolled and spun, and the beauty ring offers very little area to gain purchase. I also tried rubber, no avail. Provape did replace the beauty ring, no charge
As to replacement tanks, I took it upon myself to make my own from polycarbonate tubing, I helped a couple people out with them before zen decided to make some, Knock on wood, I have had exceptionally good luck with the glass tubes, but I will never want for a replacement in the future, if it ever comes to that, I do have plenty of glass on hand regardless.
The Triton mini tank from Aspire is another good tank, no leaks, decent airflow and flavor, and offers a reliable top fill. At 2ml a lot of folks wrote it off, but it is really easy to top off on the fly, even easier than topping of the Kabuki.
Around the house I use my REOs and drippers mostly, so I get a week or two out of each coil. Probably have a ten year supply on hand of the Nautilus and the smaller BVC coils, which I run in a Subtank Mini. 5mls on board, and again, no leaks...
As to the marred tank, the reason it occurred is due to the differing thread pitches, which is what makes a good locknut lock so well. It was a poorly thought out design. There was no removing the rings, freezer, heat gun, heat gun and cold plunge, nothing worked. Tried leather for protection but it just rolled and spun, and the beauty ring offers very little area to gain purchase. I also tried rubber, no avail. Provape did replace the beauty ring, no charge
As to replacement tanks, I took it upon myself to make my own from polycarbonate tubing, I helped a couple people out with them before zen decided to make some, Knock on wood, I have had exceptionally good luck with the glass tubes, but I will never want for a replacement in the future, if it ever comes to that, I do have plenty of glass on hand regardless.
The Triton mini tank from Aspire is another good tank, no leaks, decent airflow and flavor, and offers a reliable top fill. At 2ml a lot of folks wrote it off, but it is really easy to top off on the fly, even easier than topping of the Kabuki.
Around the house I use my REOs and drippers mostly, so I get a week or two out of each coil. Probably have a ten year supply on hand of the Nautilus and the smaller BVC coils, which I run in a Subtank Mini. 5mls on board, and again, no leaks...
Thread pitches... makes a lot of sense. Stupid blunder on Provape's part.@VNeil, I'm using 510 Kabuki, and P3 Kabukis with the 510 base, I Prefer the condensate to be trapped in the attie base. One of my P3 adaptor bases I needed to remove the center pin and replaced it with a slightly longer brass pin, contact issues.
As to the marred tank, the reason it occurred is due to the differing thread pitches, which is what makes a good locknut lock so well. It was a poorly thought out design. There was no removing the rings, freezer, heat gun, heat gun and cold plunge, nothing worked. Tried leather for protection but it just rolled and spun, and the beauty ring offers very little area to gain purchase. I also tried rubber, no avail. Provape did replace the beauty ring, no charge
As to replacement tanks, I took it upon myself to make my own from polycarbonate tubing, I helped a couple people out with them before zen decided to make some, Knock on wood, I have had exceptionally good luck with the glass tubes, but I will never want for a replacement in the future, if it ever comes to that, I do have plenty of glass on hand regardless.
The Triton mini tank from Aspire is another good tank, no leaks, decent airflow and flavor, and offers a reliable top fill. At 2ml a lot of folks wrote it off, but it is really easy to top off on the fly, even easier than topping of the Kabuki.
Around the house I use my REOs and drippers mostly, so I get a week or two out of each coil. Probably have a ten year supply on hand of the Nautilus and the smaller BVC coils, which I run in a Subtank Mini. 5mls on board, and again, no leaks...
I remember quite awhile ago getting into it with Mike at HOH about the expensive quartz tanks, which I thought was just bling, verses pyrex. He argued that pyrex can't be built to the consistency he needed with his Oring design. Seems odd that polycarb would be more consistent than pyrex and as consistent as quartz. Have you tried the polycarb tubes? Aside from that, just it seems wrong to put a cheap plastic tank on a $100 tank made to the standards of the Kabuki
. But for vapocalypse purposes I guess I should bottom feed that. And maybe get a steel tube just to be sure although I wouldn't want to have to go blind on the juice level.So I watched a couple of Triton Mini reviews and it appears that Nautilus and Triton Mini coils are fully interchangeable back and forth between Triton and Nautilus, and then presumably the Kabuki? That would be very nice. Have you tried the 3 Triton mini coils in the Kabuki?
The quartz glass on the Kabuki is said to be interchangeable with the glass on the Zen (Genesis) Atty ... and it is.
Now ... the polycarb for the Kabuki ... maybe it works on a Kabuki, haven't tried it. BUT ... the polycarb from HoH for the Kabuki leaked everywhere on MY Zen Atty (ZA-U). To be fair, they never said the Kabuki polycarb would work on the ZA, but I figured if the quartz was interchangeable, maybe the polycarb was too. Not, at least on mine.
So yeah maybe in the big picture, polycarb and pyrex doesn't work with HoH o-ring design. The HoH polycarb interior diameter seems just a hair slightly larger than Kabuki quartz. The polycarb shipped with o-rings (looked to be same as Kabuki o-rings ... not sure if buna or silicone) and I tried those and Kabuki o-rings with the same result on the ZA-U ... leaks. Different tanks different science I guess. I'll stick with quartz. Works on all my tanks. The sole polycarb sleeve I have is relegated to backup of my box of quartz backups and only for the Kabuki LOL.
Now ... the polycarb for the Kabuki ... maybe it works on a Kabuki, haven't tried it. BUT ... the polycarb from HoH for the Kabuki leaked everywhere on MY Zen Atty (ZA-U). To be fair, they never said the Kabuki polycarb would work on the ZA, but I figured if the quartz was interchangeable, maybe the polycarb was too. Not, at least on mine.
So yeah maybe in the big picture, polycarb and pyrex doesn't work with HoH o-ring design. The HoH polycarb interior diameter seems just a hair slightly larger than Kabuki quartz. The polycarb shipped with o-rings (looked to be same as Kabuki o-rings ... not sure if buna or silicone) and I tried those and Kabuki o-rings with the same result on the ZA-U ... leaks. Different tanks different science I guess. I'll stick with quartz. Works on all my tanks. The sole polycarb sleeve I have is relegated to backup of my box of quartz backups and only for the Kabuki LOL.
I'm using the polycarb still in my kabuki, mainly because it's hassle free, and I've dropped it several times (even with vape bands) so I figure, sure, I could put some more glass on there, but I bet I break it, given enough time. I really LOVED my quartz glass tank for the two days I owned it, and I do think glass LOOKS nicer, but I gotta choose functionality over looks, every time. Funnily enough, I've dropped other tanks and the glass has been fine, but no, the Kabuki shattered on it's first drop (less than 2 feet, I was filling it at the time. Sigh. That could be why but 2 feet!!!) I should probably order replacements, just to have them, and some of them definitely need to be plastic, LOL.
Anna
Anna
@Hobbs, thanks for that feedback. @stols001, everything I've read about the Kabuki glass suggests it is much more fragile than typical pyrex tank glass. Good to know the polycarb tubes aren't leaking. At least you didn't mention that.
I think what is going on is partly because there is a very tight tolerance between the oring and the tube. The Kabuki is a little harder to assemble than other tanks I've used, because of that tight fit. So I've learned to go very slowly and carefully when fitting together and removing. And don't try to rock it off if it's reluctant to come off the base. And as I said, I try not to mess with the top side unless I have a compelling reason. I know on mine the top side is a very tight fit.
I think what is going on is partly because there is a very tight tolerance between the oring and the tube. The Kabuki is a little harder to assemble than other tanks I've used, because of that tight fit. So I've learned to go very slowly and carefully when fitting together and removing. And don't try to rock it off if it's reluctant to come off the base. And as I said, I try not to mess with the top side unless I have a compelling reason. I know on mine the top side is a very tight fit.
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