ProVarinati Diner & Saloon and Beyond

xstitch

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I want to pass along some sad news about a fellow member who suddenly passed away with no warning. He owned a couple Provaris and would visit the old Provari threads on occasion but he mostly stayed on the HHV thread and to a smaller extent on the new members pages. Not sure how many of you knew him (if any at all) but in case you do I thought you should know. The HHV thread is five years old next month and he joined shortly after it started. He posted every day and many times a day. To say we knew him well would be an understatement. And to say the least we are all deeply shocked and saddened.

Christopher Pfrang (aka, Chakris)
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Oh no!!! Thanks for letting us know [emoji30]


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MikeE3

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Can someone recommend a squeeze bottle with 18g blunt tip top?

Wiping juice away from the needle of the syringe that came with the ZA-U every time I fill the syringe just isn't ideal for me.

Most squeeze bottles with needle tips I see, have tips that are just too small. They work fine for thin liquids like flavorings but even the ones I got last year from ProVape ... drip drip drip ... when squeezed hard on 50/50 PG/VG.

Thanks !!!

I've used bottles and tips like these for years for all our toppers including ZAPs. You can find them easily at RTD Vapor (though on the expensive side). Shopping Amazon and Ebay can sometimes turn up better buys.

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Hobbs

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Thanks Mike !!! I might also be able to cobble something together with bottles and blunt tip needles I have on hand and some super glue or something.

I think I'm going to have to call the ZFO and/or HoH tomorrow anyway and may ask them. Biggest think I need to ask them about is ... What gage wire do I need to use to build a 1.6-1.8 CERAMIC coil and how many wraps?

I removed the mesh wick that shipped with the ZA-U and the plastic mesh insulator. It had arrived with 5-wrap 32gage @ 1.6ohms.

I replaced with a ceramic coil. Used the same 32 gage wire @ same 5-wrap and confusingly arrived at 2.6ohms. Tried it twice. Did a 4-wrap and it came down to 2.0ohm.

Put the original mesh wick and insulator back in and back down to 1.6ohm. Right back where it started.

Must be something going on between the wick and wire. Mesh does conduct but ceramic doesn't so I'm not shocked there's a difference, just don't know what gage and wrap would be ideal for 1.6-1.8 with ceramic wick.
 

MikeE3

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Thanks Mike !!! I might also be able to cobble something together with bottles and blunt tip needles I have on hand and some super glue or something.

I think I'm going to have to call the ZFO and/or HoH tomorrow anyway and may ask them. Biggest think I need to ask them about is ... What gage wire do I need to use to build a 1.6-1.8 CERAMIC coil and how many wraps?

I removed the mesh wick that shipped with the ZA-U and the plastic mesh insulator. It had arrived with 5-wrap 32gage @ 1.6ohms.

I replaced with a ceramic coil. Used the same 32 gage wire @ same 5-wrap and confusingly arrived at 2.6ohms. Tried it twice. Did a 4-wrap and it came down to 2.0ohm.

Put the original mesh wick and insulator back in and back down to 1.6ohm. Right back where it started.

Must be something going on between the wick and wire. Mesh does conduct but ceramic doesn't so I'm not shocked there's a difference, just don't know what gage and wrap would be ideal for 1.6-1.8 with ceramic wick.

If you're intent on using the ceramic wicks then go right to 28g Kanthal. I spent a lot of time w/ ceramic wicks, even made my own. You need to get the wire really tight to the ceramic too. We (those of us doing a lot w/ ceramic wicks) would wrap them 'hot'. By that I mean glowing the wire red w/ a torch while wrapping it onto the wick. We'd put the wick in a jig/holder, and hold it in the flame of a torch while wrapping the coil. I may have a picture or two around someplace I can post to give you an idea of what I'm trying to explain.
 

Hobbs

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I understand what you're saying. Sounds likes a lot of trouble. I was able to get it tight, but not hot wrap tight. Did have a good even and uniform glow to it when dry fired. The few draws I pulled were noticeably smoother and less the mesh wick flavor inducement. But the mesh that shipped with, is still breaking in. I'll give it some time. Thanks Mike !!! ... I figured 29gage would be the answer but since you have messed with it a bunch I'll try 28 when I go back to it.
 

MikeE3

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@Hobbs

hmmm ... was easier then I though to find the old pictures.

Here's the jig to hold the wick. One end of the wire was taped to the jig, the other end held in my hand. I kept the tip of the torch right close to the wick and fed the wire through the flame tip to make it red hot as I wrapped it around the wick.

IMG_1172_zps934c5b46.JPG


Then inserted the wick/coil into the ZAP and hooked it up. If there were any gaps between the wire and wick it would be a hot spot. That's why the 'hot wrap' was developed to get a really snug fit of the wire against the ceramic wick.

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There's a big long thread someplace here on ECF about using ceramic wicks. It was very popular in its day.

Oh yes ... the common phrase among ceramic wick users was "Oh Snap!". They are very very fragile and easy to 'snap'.
 

Hobbs

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Thanks Mike !!! I was able to get good wraps ALMOST that tight. The even and uniform heating when I dry fired, spoke to that issue. I made discrete component level micro-miniature repairs to electronic equipment during a 20 year military career and am used to working with detailed fine stuff ... just don't have the eyes for it any more. That's a nice job you did there Mike.
 

MikeE3

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Thanks Mike !!! I was able to get good wraps ALMOST that tight. The even and uniform heating when I dry fired, spoke to that issue. I made discrete component level micro-miniature repairs to electronic equipment during a 20 year military career and am used to working with detailed fine stuff ... just don't have the eyes for it any more.

Good to hear you're getting along w/ it then. Another trick once the coil is wrapped ... while glowing it if you see a loose spot / gap ... when it's hot and glowing you can move it a bit up/down to tighten that loop.
 

Hobbs

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My first coil build from scratch, free handed in place on the ZA-U. Well, tried a ceramic build earlier but didn't and don't have the right size wire. 400x400 mesh 32gage Kanthal. Think it came out okay. Think the wick is ideal distance from the bottom too. Wicking nicely. Coil is lined up perfectly with the display on the Procyon. When in place, the hole in the top cap is centered on the coil. I'm not a throat hit guy. Got lucky all round. Happy with it.

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Rise

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Thank you all for the help, we worked out a return. {Removed - sorry! No talking about things wanting to buy or sell outside of the classifieds. Those are the rules.}

Had another question for you guys. What is the main differences between the v1 and v1.5 p3 kabuki? I believe I have v1s and just want to know if it's worth spending the money to upgrade.
 
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AstroTurf

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Thank you all for the help, we worked out a return. {Removed - sorry! No talking about things wanting to buy or sell outside of the classifieds. Those are the rules.}

Had another question for you guys. What is the main differences between the v1 and v1.5 p3 kabuki? I believe I have v1s and just want to know if it's worth spending the money to upgrade.
V1 came in a 510 config.
V1.5 does not.
 

RadiusNick

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Wednesday:
Chainless, Shaft-Drive bicycle cleaned up and limbered by a quiet, effortless amble about town ... check. Time for a quiet, effortless, enjoyable vape ... you betcha.

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how would you compare the riding experience in one of those vs the regular ones?
i just saw that these bikes can have gears too.
why did you take a shaft drive bike instead of the chain one?


on topic:
did any of you ever had any issue with a provari 510 ?
mine got scratched from the kfl center pin which has a tiny dent from adjusting it with the screw driver(i probably should sand it a bit),any how it seems the 510 pin on the provari is softer than my other mods, because i don't see them getting too affected by this.
just worried it gets chewed too much.
 

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