So I'm guessing you did not set it to stop charging at 4.1, yah? Did you just get lucky on that on, JUMA dahlink?
So I'm guessing you did not set it to stop charging at 4.1, yah? Did you just get lucky on that on, JUMA dahlink?
Don't feel bad, Red - I think it was a few years, AND Kat pointing it out to me...
Quite creative, that ENAUD, and I love it.
Yes you are.
Fooled you!
As a long-time lurker I feel as if I "know" many of you here, even so, I think I should introduce myself before I rant and then ask for advice on my problem.
I am an absolutely delightful elderly gentleman with immaculate taste and no funds. Occasionaly thrawn and even carnaptious, yet I am, by my own excellent judgement, quite charming. A smoker for 54 years till three years ago when I took up vaping as a way of staying off the "stinkies". It has worked.
Rant: It's all your fault! I came across the name Kabuki and Googled it, which brought me to ECF. After reading of this marvelous modern invention, and it's oftimes associated ProVari, I ended up with four of the former and three of the later. This would not have happened without the input of some of you. For this, I am grateful.
Problem: Whilst re-filling my GMZ Kabuki some time ago I found a small o-ring in the tank. It fits perfectly in the base and the coil screws in perfectly. I have used it so for some considerable time without problem, although the puzzle remains, why only in the GMZ tank?
Recently I have experienced juice (and not condensation) leaking through into the P3 connector on the mod. Removing the o-ring, it still leaks. Now here's the knub. Does anyone here know of this o-ring in some of the Kabuki tanks, yet not in others?
Thanking you in anticipation
Me.
I am an absolutely delightful elderly gentleman with immaculate taste and no funds. Occasionaly thrawn and even carnaptious, yet I am, by my own excellent judgement, quite charming. A smoker for 54 years till three years ago when I took up vaping as a way of staying off the "stinkies". It has worked.
Rant: It's all your fault! I came across the name Kabuki and Googled it, which brought me to ECF. After reading of this marvelous modern invention, and it's oftimes associated ProVari, I ended up with four of the former and three of the later. This would not have happened without the input of some of you. For this, I am grateful.
Problem: Whilst re-filling my GMZ Kabuki some time ago I found a small o-ring in the tank. It fits perfectly in the base and the coil screws in perfectly. I have used it so for some considerable time without problem, although the puzzle remains, why only in the GMZ tank?
Recently I have experienced juice (and not condensation) leaking through into the P3 connector on the mod. Removing the o-ring, it still leaks. Now here's the knub. Does anyone here know of this o-ring in some of the Kabuki tanks, yet not in others?
Thanking you in anticipation
Me.
At one time I had as many as 9 Kabukis in one version or another. None of them had the o-ring such as you describe. I'm curious as to the color. On a Nautilus coil at the flange where the threads start (towards the coil, not towards the tank base) is a small whitish/clear silicone o-ring. I'm wondering it it came off one of your previous coils. And yes, I'm pretty sure it would cause a leak if you were actually using two of those in an area designed for one.
Thanks for helping.
The o-ring in question is black and thicker than that which is on the coil. In situ it has worked perfectly for some time. It is smaller than a drip-tip o-ring, but approximately the same thickness and the outer diameter fits in the base exactly.
It's a real mystery as to where that came from. But I'll say in my opinion, it doesn't need to be there.
Look at it this way: HoH machined the Kabuki base so that the silicone ring on the bottom of the coil would fit perfectly and seal. It was sized both for overall diameter and also for profile - the shape and thickness of the material itself.
While your outlaw o-ring might be the same diameter, it may or may not have the same profile. And you've noted that it's thicker which is also an important element of getting an o-ring to seat. So you're trying to seal an o-ring into a recess that probably wasn't designed for it, and then trying to seal another o-ring to that when both rings have different sealing profiles. Maybe I'm hardheaded, but that sounds like a sure fire recipe for leakage.
One other issue comes from screwing the coil into the base, and again is purely my opinion which of course may be wrong. The coil needs to be completely screwed into the base but not cranked down as I believe this causes that soft silicone to distort. In my mind, I can see that it needs to be touching the base completely, but not squeezed out of shape.
Welcome, @Deemac , and I have two questions.
1. Is it an authentic Kabuki? I don't recall seeing GMZ clones, but I wasn't watching closely.
2. Is it a P3 or 510 threaded model? I saw that you referenced the P3 connector, but some of use that to describe the non-beveled top cap, so I didn't want to assume anything prematurely.
I don't know that either of these things matter, but they may help the experts in this room help you identify any potential issues more clearly.
I hope you get it all figured out (and working properly) soon!
Best self-description ever, by the way.
1. Is it an authentic Kabuki? I don't recall seeing GMZ clones, but I wasn't watching closely.
2. Is it a P3 or 510 threaded model? I saw that you referenced the P3 connector, but some of use that to describe the non-beveled top cap, so I didn't want to assume anything prematurely.
I don't know that either of these things matter, but they may help the experts in this room help you identify any potential issues more clearly.
I hope you get it all figured out (and working properly) soon!
Best self-description ever, by the way.
I currently have Eight Kabukis, of various generations.
The first generation tanks need to be screwed in tightly in order to make electrical contact. This is okay because they just make contact like that, and don't cause any upward pressure on the coil pin which can cause leakage.
The later generation tanks just require being screwed down lightly in order to achieve electrical contact. These tanks will leak, and put alot of pressure on the p3 threads, if they are screwed down too tightly.
I have not experienced any leaking with the newer generation tanks, as long as they are not screwed down too much.
I reseat the coil upon filling the tank every time, just to make sure it has not moved around.
My advice would be to remove that o ring and try screwing the coil down just to the point where your ProVari makes electrical contact with the coil.
See if that takes care of the leaking.
This is assuming authentic p3 Kabukis.
The 510 Kabukis have a hard plastic insulator and grub screw arrangement.
With these you adjust the grub screw in order to make proper contact.
I would imagine that insulator could fail at some point.
HTH
The first generation tanks need to be screwed in tightly in order to make electrical contact. This is okay because they just make contact like that, and don't cause any upward pressure on the coil pin which can cause leakage.
The later generation tanks just require being screwed down lightly in order to achieve electrical contact. These tanks will leak, and put alot of pressure on the p3 threads, if they are screwed down too tightly.
I have not experienced any leaking with the newer generation tanks, as long as they are not screwed down too much.
I reseat the coil upon filling the tank every time, just to make sure it has not moved around.
My advice would be to remove that o ring and try screwing the coil down just to the point where your ProVari makes electrical contact with the coil.
See if that takes care of the leaking.
This is assuming authentic p3 Kabukis.
The 510 Kabukis have a hard plastic insulator and grub screw arrangement.
With these you adjust the grub screw in order to make proper contact.
I would imagine that insulator could fail at some point.
HTH
We're not talking about the 510 adaptor that comes with the newer Kabukis are we?
I don't have one of those jobbies handy atm, so can't look and see if they have an o ring in there.
I don't think they do, in any case.
I don't have one of those jobbies handy atm, so can't look and see if they have an o ring in there.
I don't think they do, in any case.
I have a P3 titanium Kabuki that arrived with the "adaptor" o-ring already distorted and out of place. That 0-ring is much thinner, and really just designed so that your 510/P3 connector doesn't get screwed together so tightly that it's impossible to remove. Since I had a radius to put it on, I ended up just using the P3 connection since at first I was trying to "make contact" with a P3-510 adaptor to a 510-P3 adaptor, which was madness!! LOL, it works much better that way, is all I can say.
The only other O-rings I know of are the ones for the top and the bottom of the tank. Both of mine have stayed seated but I do lubricate them with E-liquid so that everything untwists easily. Mine are the thicker, silicone rings.
I don't know of a small O-ring for the driptip, but I replaced both my Kabukis (authentics) with a Nautilus drip tip as I prefer it anyway. One came with the special "puff-into-your-mouth" squeezy driptip, and I have used those driptips on other tanks and they can sometimes feel a bit loose. I don't think the Kabukis I got had any "drip tip" condensation, ever, or leaking. Yes, they need to be threaded carefully and not too tight, which is best for not causing leaking issues. If I tighten too hard, I will sometimes see leaking. I'm learning "finger tight" is best for most stuff.
Best of luck, you could try removing it to see if your tank performs any differently, is all I might be able to suggest....
Anna
The only other O-rings I know of are the ones for the top and the bottom of the tank. Both of mine have stayed seated but I do lubricate them with E-liquid so that everything untwists easily. Mine are the thicker, silicone rings.
I don't know of a small O-ring for the driptip, but I replaced both my Kabukis (authentics) with a Nautilus drip tip as I prefer it anyway. One came with the special "puff-into-your-mouth" squeezy driptip, and I have used those driptips on other tanks and they can sometimes feel a bit loose. I don't think the Kabukis I got had any "drip tip" condensation, ever, or leaking. Yes, they need to be threaded carefully and not too tight, which is best for not causing leaking issues. If I tighten too hard, I will sometimes see leaking. I'm learning "finger tight" is best for most stuff.
Best of luck, you could try removing it to see if your tank performs any differently, is all I might be able to suggest....
Anna
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