I can't speak for issues with the pin, but the o-rings are standard. One of mine split and Brandy @ Provape support sent me these specs.
size (AS568A Industry Standard Uniform Dash Number) = 004
Cross Section = 1/16"
ID = 5/64"
OD = 13/64"
material = Silicone-70
A helpful hint I got from Brandy at Provape (when there was a Provape) ... was to insert the tips of a small pair of needle nose pliers into the o-ring. Then open the pliers to spread open the inner diameter of the o-ring and then carefully slip it over the 510 pin. But first take a small flat head screwdriver and gently pry up on the 510 pin. Do this from a couple few places around the outside of the pin. It will make seating the o-ring around it easier.
Worked like a charm when I had to replace mine.
And here's 2 sources for the o-rings (there's likely others, I just had these 2 handy).
FDA SILICONE O-RINGS 004 QTY 75 5/64" ID X 13/64" OD | eBay
https://www.amazon.com/004-Buna-N-O...id=1433362692&sr=1-1&keywords=o+rings+5/64+ID
She sent me pictures on 'doing it' but they disappeared when the Provape website disappeared. Here's pictures of my replacement.
Thanks Rose, yes I check out both HOH/Squareup and ZFO. I was looking for either a black or SS Matilda. Fortunately, we have a lot of good people here on ECF and I was gifted an SS one by someone who saw my 'wanted post'.
In this case, "seemed" is the operative word.
Turns out, they were exactly opposite.
And that, my friend, has my head spinning. Please expound, since I can't remember a single issue with the P3 other than finding parts that used it.
I mean, on paper there's no question. Bigger threads with much more surface area, quick to spin home and tighten, and much more area to provide conductivity. I've never had a problem with mine.
So spill the beans, see?? (Jimmy Cagney gangster voice)
..if we can use a Gary Cooper reference, it should be fair game for the quintessential "tuff guy" voice.
The good old days of contests with prizes without worry about big brother's heavy hand. Not the case now, sorry to say.GETdafugout!!!!!!!!
What'd I win (and thanks for the contest!)?
Now that depends on who is doing the search. No, never mind.Hopefully, NOT, a cavity search!
I'm in!!
If you get in touch with Mike. Could you ask him where my 5th anniversary P3 is? I think I'm going on my 7th....
I knew I was missing a mod.
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Just accept that at some point after your death someone somewhere will have their last memory of you, and after that you will be unknown and forgotten for all time thereafter...
No... I have videos on the web. Forever more. XXX.
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I'm kind of obsessed with that connector actually it was MADE for me in mind. Heh.
I would say he's clumsy but then all the engineering and whatnot.
I WISH I was one of his girlfriends. I would pilfer his Provari stash something fierce. Kind of slow, over time then I'd be gone.... Etc.
Anna
I would say he's clumsy but then all the engineering and whatnot.
I WISH I was one of his girlfriends. I would pilfer his Provari stash something fierce. Kind of slow, over time then I'd be gone.... Etc.
Anna
The ZNA, maybe? That was a revolutionary mod in many ways. The SX Mini was just one of the many things that followed down its path.
I bought many of the offspring, but never the original. I didn't like how the 18650 version looked "incomplete".
And that, my friend, has my head spinning. Please expound, since I can't remember a single issue with the P3 other than finding parts that used it.
I mean, on paper there's no question. Bigger threads with much more surface area, quick to spin home and tighten, and much more area to provide conductivity. I've never had a problem with mine.
So spill the beans, see?? (Jimmy Cagney gangster voice)
..if we can use a Gary Cooper reference, it should be fair game for the quintessential "tuff guy" voice.
Ah, my good Geezer. I think you actually do know, but just aren't thinking along the lines right now.
There have been a fair number of P3 capped Provis that have required repair, due to the redesign of the original (stable & sturdy) slanted/beveled/fixed top caps.
Something about a wire that gets pulled easily, I believe? Ringing bells?
Bottom line is that the attempt to add stability ironically created a cap that was less stable than the original, in the largest sense.
Put it this way, if I ever ran across someone wanting to trade their old beveled tops for some "sturdier" P3 ones, I'd jump at it.
If I could turn back time...
(Earworm!)
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