Pyrex Tube/Inner Coil/SS Mesh Genesis Mod

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TBinAZ

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I still think that a tiny 1mm OD tube of aluminum, or brass, or the like would work after heating the end of the tube. Going to do some hunting around. Already found some 1 x 2 and 1 x 3, but need to sort out availability. Thinking about trying some 34g and 40g NiChrome coils spaced out a bit. Just long enough to fill most of a 10mm tube.
 

Big Screen D

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Regarding the top seal. It's not necessary, and probably undesirable to make it air-tight. The object is to minimize the opening to trap most of the heat, and prevent much if any juice/condensation from running down into the tube. Keeping the wick a few mm below the top prevents juice from climbing the tube and finding it's way inside quite effectively. Where I melt the glass around the NR wire is close, but not completely sealed.
 

k3vin

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OK,it took some fiddling..OY VEY!!! it almost had me stumped,mostly the bead connector..PITA...BUT when I finally got it all worked out,It is giving the best vape I have ever had out of a GENNIE atty...clean flavor,nothing harsh..

My coil is a bit long inside the tube,but itis kicking great...heating up instantly..
 

TBinAZ

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Nice, man. PICS!

I have made plans with the family that I can go out to the garage and not be disturbed the next few days. My X-mas. We'll see what goes.

OK,it took some fiddling..OY VEY!!! it almost had me stumped,mostly the bead connector..PITA...BUT when I finally got it all worked out,It is giving the best vape I have ever had out of a GENNIE atty...clean flavor,nothing harsh..

My coil is a bit long inside the tube,but itis kicking great...heating up instantly..
 

k3vin

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Dang it I am battling f1 error... But when it is working it is a juice hog.. After lunch I will take apart and re adjust some..

Will post pics about 6 central.. I am using the fq and it seems the best, those smaller tighter tubes az seem to work best because they are so small the coils can't help but touch the side..
 

TBinAZ

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Turn down the volt/watts.

Dang it I am battling f1 error... But when it is working it is a juice hog.. After lunch I will take apart and re adjust some..

Will post pics about 6 central.. I am using the fq and it seems the best, those smaller tighter tubes az seem to work best because they are so small the coils can't help but touch the side..
 

Big Screen D

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Woot. Congrats K. Glad you got ya one going.

Couple of observations I've found that are very cool. After 5 tanks, and roughly 12ml of juice I've noticed no sign whatsoever of darkening of juice in the tank. That was after several tanks of 50/50 HHV Shadowfax, followed by a rinse out, then the 5 tanks of HHV 50/50 Peach Tobacco. Which sadly I've run out of.

I had noticed some fall off in production. A look at the heater with my headgear on revealed that very little vapor was coming off the top part of the wick that had a thin layer of gunk build up. I've been concerned with how these would fare when the time for cleaning came. Remember with the Pyrex, ya can't dry burn. To my amazement, the gunk was not cooked on, but rather the gooey, chewy variety. So I rinsed the tank out with hot water, poured some PGA in a shot glass, and with the wick down in the PGA gave it a gentle scrub with an artist brush. Clean as a whistle, and good as new.
 

k3vin

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Ok here are some pics, but my weakest link is the connectors.. I need to stop using them and just wind the wire together... ImageUploadedByTapatalk1356479034.358076.jpg

The one above is with coil firing you can also see the connector, now I have gotten some thicker gauge nr wire from micheals yesterday..

Will try again tomorrow...
 

dsy5

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Regarding the top seal. It's not necessary, and probably undesirable to make it air-tight. The object is to minimize the opening to trap most of the heat, and prevent much if any juice/condensation from running down into the tube. Keeping the wick a few mm below the top prevents juice from climbing the tube and finding it's way inside quite effectively. Where I melt the glass around the NR wire is close, but not completely sealed.

I don't know that I agree with that, D, as I find that the tube fills with juice if not completely sealed. I think as the tube cools, the air inside the tube contracts and sucks it in. When I had mine quite air tight, I had no juice in the tube at all.

As for JB weld, I don't know if I trust it - rather have something inert, like candle wax. My tubes are long and extend into the tank and the wax doesn't melt, since the juice in the tank keeps it cool enough.
 

dsy5

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K3vin, how did the porcelein repair work out? Did it seal the top? I'm going to see if I can find any food grade silicone tommorrow and see if it will hold up to the heat. Having done a little research on silicone seal, the highest temp that it will withstand seems to be about 500°F - I don't think that will do it, but it deserves a try...
 
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dsy5

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I also experienced great taste and vapor when I had mine working. Then when I pulled it apart to try the toothpicks top and bottom and I started to chip the tubes, it all went downhill. I just tried sealing a tube with silver solder - it seemed to seal, but was easily pushed out of the tube. No adhesion to the inner glass wall...

Until I find something that is going to work at the top, I'm not building any for vaping, just experimenting. I know that this tube and coil configuration works, just need to find a way to perfect the plugging. Once juice finds its way in there, the vapor drops significantly. Must be keeping the coils from glowing. It also looks to be burning the juice, too.
 
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