quick question for all you guys out there in mod world

[elmattias]

so a tragedy befell me today, as my lavatube fell out of my pocket getting out of my truck, breaking the top cap in half and thus off of the unit, with the 510 threads just hanging on by the wires.

however, the unit still fires, meaning all the electronics are still good and in working order....so the question is:

if i open up the tube and rip out those electronics, could they potentially be used in a new housing? i know that the electronics inside are probably fairly proprietary, meaning it would be difficult, but if i got them out unscathed, could i then throw them into a box and make some form of frankenmonster out of them?

 

[wolcen]

Sure!

If the body of the device was providing the ground, you'd have to substitute for that (though this is a plastic tube, correct?). The only other thing I can think of is that if the bottom spring one that collapses due to over current, you could be loosing that safety feature if you didn't carry it over somehow, but IIRC, the circuitry does the protection for this situation in this device.

 

[elmattias]

Sure!

If the body of the device was providing the ground, you'd have to substitute for that (though this is a plastic tube, correct?). The only other thing I can think of is that if the bottom spring one that collapses due to over current, you could be loosing that safety feature if you didn't carry it over somehow, but IIRC, the circuitry does the protection for this situation in this device.

the tube itself is aluminum, the end caps were plastic (probably explaining why it broke there yet still fires) and yes the bottom spring is a collapsing aluminum spring with a vented end cap, so yes that is definately a feature down, however i'm not entirely concerned at this time just yet, as this idea is still in pre-beta if you will, regardless, thanks for the answer, guess i know what i'm doing this weekend.....

 

[Lance_Wallen]

Personally, I'd just JBWeld the cap back into place.

You can rip the guts out, I havn't seen the insides of a lava tube but if the cap is actually 'off' and theres just wires then the ground is going from battery to the chip then the chip provides both + and - to the actual connector and not the body itself. Quick answer to that question would be if there are 2 wires going to the connector but based on your description I think there are.

Also, you can always reuse the collapsing spring in your new body. Especially fi you're making a tube mod

If you're thinking about a box, you'll probably still be able to use the spring since it wont be that much greater in diameter than an 18650 which I assume you'll be using in the new body anyway so it won't dictate your dimensions much.

Be very careful taking the whole thing apart, if you have access to a dremel and a flashlight I'd recommend looking inside the body from both sides to see where any wires/other parts are, then using the dremel to cut the case apart safely so you can remove everything as intact and un-molested as possible.

During the rebuild it might be beneficial to up your wire gauges a little. I hear they're pretty tiny in those tubes. That is... if you're comfortable desoldering and resoldering the components, again, I havn't seen the guts of one so they might be too tiny to fiddle with manually. I've considered buying one just to chop it and make it into a double barrel size to get the battery beside the components to shrink the length some. I opted for buying a CNC machine and making my own cases instead though

 

[elmattias]

Personally, I'd just JBWeld the cap back into place.

You can rip the guts out, I havn't seen the insides of a lava tube but if the cap is actually 'off' and theres just wires then the ground is going from battery to the chip then the chip provides both + and - to the actual connector and not the body itself. Quick answer to that question would be if there are 2 wires going to the connector but based on your description I think there are.

Also, you can always reuse the collapsing spring in your new body. Especially fi you're making a tube mod

If you're thinking about a box, you'll probably still be able to use the spring since it wont be that much greater in diameter than an 18650 which I assume you'll be using in the new body anyway so it won't dictate your dimensions much.

Be very careful taking the whole thing apart, if you have access to a dremel and a flashlight I'd recommend looking inside the body from both sides to see where any wires/other parts are, then using the dremel to cut the case apart safely so you can remove everything as intact and un-molested as possible.

During the rebuild it might be beneficial to up your wire gauges a little. I hear they're pretty tiny in those tubes. That is... if you're comfortable desoldering and resoldering the components, again, I havn't seen the guts of one so they might be too tiny to fiddle with manually. I've considered buying one just to chop it and make it into a double barrel size to get the battery beside the components to shrink the length some. I opted for buying a CNC machine and making my own cases instead though

I do have a dremel tool, and the top cap split, not just split off, as far as the wire gauge, its probably a 24,though that's just me eyeballing it...what gauge would you recommend? As for the new body, I really haven't decided, as I'm probably going to take my time cutting it open this weekend and then planning around the size of the electronics...was also thinking about changing the connector out to 801 so I would have a mod to use with my fusions that was native 801...but like I said, the idea is still basically pre beta ATM...thanks for the advice though, I'll see about posting some pics so you guys can take a look see

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2

 

[elmattias]

here ya go guys, first pic top of device where it was attached, second is the top cap that broke

 

[horton]

I agree with Lance..... from your pics, it looks like by carefully aligning the broken parts and using some medium viscosity CA glue, you could make the cap intact again. It sure would be a lot less stressful than trying to remove all the guts and then find that you have hit a wall.
It's too bad that the top and end caps are plastic, but considering the price of the devices, I guess I can understand why. You sure won't hurt anything by trying to glue it before attempting any more "drastic" measures. Just my 2 pennies worth.......

 

[wolcen]

You'd almost think you hadn't posted this in the modders forum I don't think you ever asked an opinion on whether you should do so, but I say crack that sucker! Myself, I'd need no better excuse to try to find/build a cool enclosure than that mangled top ring.

In terms of going 808....you could always wire up both on your new enclosure.

We're here whether you go for it or not. Good luck!

 

[Skyway]

I do not remember the name, and I will try and find it for you. There is a guy on Youtube that had the same situation as you and he put a new top on his and I think he worked it out so he could put a Zap on his. So his new top must have been either something similar to a Provari or it was beveled in some way as to accept the connection.
Personally, heh, I would probably take it apart and make something new. Would be cool to have a custom box with the circuitry in it.

 

[Skyway]

Found it. Fazed Lava Buzz Apparently he used a Buzz top.
He goes by Fazed.

 

[elmattias]

Found it. Fazed Lava Buzz Apparently he used a Buzz top.
He goes by Fazed.

Nice...that just might work...though I may use some 3m carbon fiber to fix the aesthetics instead of painting it...the only issue I have with it is how the connector sticks out like an ego connection...also, is that the only top cap that would fit you think? I wouldn't mind just changing it at this point, I'm just utterly turned off by the originals plastic cap....poor designing IMHO...

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2

 

[Skyway]

Not sure on the diameters. I know Puresmoker top caps for the Prodigy were similar to the fact they were hard connections likes 510, 901 or 801 top caps. I know they no longer make the Prodigy and to be honest, $20 a pop wasn't necessarily cheap for a top cap, but they were quality parts. I am sure some other ecigs on the market make replaceable caps that would probably work.

 

[elmattias]

Not sure on the diameters. I know Puresmoker top caps for the Prodigy were similar to the fact they were hard connections likes 510, 901 or 801 top caps. I know they no longer make the Prodigy and to be honest, $20 a pop wasn't necessarily cheap for a top cap, but they were quality parts. I am sure some other ecigs on the market make replaceable caps that would probably work.

First place I'm gonna check is madvapes to see what they have...if I can't find anything by Monday I'll just grab the buzz caps I suppose

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2

 

[Lance_Wallen]

I say gut it and go for a recessed RCA connector so you can swap between 510, 901, etc.