Quick Question

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Nunnster

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So I just got into rebuilding atty's a few days ago, but I had a quick question. When I tested the coil I built just recently, it measured a resistance of 1.7 ohms. I screwed it into my sid, and it also read 1.7 ohms on the 3 or so test fires I did. Ive been vaping it all day, and noticed that some hits I'll get more vapor and some will get less, so I checked the resistance again via the sid, and it will fluctuate between 1.4 and 1.8 ohms. Like Ill fire it once, and it will read out 1.7, then Ill fire it again and it will read 1.4, and so on and so forth. I have never seen this happen with my per-built atty's, so I really don't think its an issue with the Sid (but it could be? I have no idea). I have not messed with the coil once I screwed it in, so I am kinda at a loss of why this is happening. Anyone else experience this? Is this a result of heating and cooling of the coil and it shifting a bit? Or maybe I something noobish that I did while building and dont know about it, or is it just the accuracy of the device read out. I did a microcoil with 9 tight wraps around a toothpick with 30 gauge wire if that helps trouble shoot. It is not that big a deal, but I was just wondering if this is normal.
 

Nunnster

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Alright, Ill try that when I go to rebuild again. As for this one, It stopped fluctuating so wildly, and now its reading at a pretty much constant 1.4 or 1.5, so I don't understand how it just fixed itself. Its a good coil so I don't wanna take it out and measure it again, cuz I cant seem to get them back in when the wires are really short (on a protank) Maybe it was loose like you guys suggested and it got settled into place? Who knows lol. If It happens again at least I will have an idea of where to start to try and fix it on my own.
 

catalinaflyer

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on a protank

If your using the same atomizer as the PT2 then both legs of the coil are basically making connection by being pressed against the metal by the rubber grommet. Now when your handling the wire your transferring oil from your hands to the wire. When you screw down on a wire the friction of the metal on metal on metal of the screw, wire and post forces most of the oils out of the way and gets a better connection. On a Protank style atomizer there isn't that friction and as such you might have been getting less than optimal connection from the wire to the metal (especially since it's chrome plated and has a much lower surface friction to contact the wire). Over a few days of use and heating the oil may well have cleared itself out and now you getting more stable and lower ohm readings. I have built a dozen or so shooting for around 2.2 but have had a couple start off at 2.5 or more then come down and others hold steady from the beginning.

Not sure if that's what's happening but in my caffeine addled brain it makes sense.
 

dice57

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Fluctuating ohms on a build is an indicator of lose connections. On a PT, chances are high that you have the positive leg to close to the side, and it is shorting at times, or possibly to tall, and shorting on the cone. When you build your coils, leave the legs long so that after inspected, can shift them if needed. Also, after you wrap your coils, pinch them with tweezers and torch to red hot, this will set the coils and they will stay together. Then mount coil, secure wires, check, wick, check, then trim wires and test ohms, saturate, test fire, assemble and fill. Or get a real rba and make things easier and better.
 
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