I have them hooked up, my voltage stays rock solid under load. What issues did you have with the nfet?
Raptor Flip-Top VV Mod with 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
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Not bad. But shrink tube your fets! I had my fet's (I think it was the pfet) big back metal ground into the box itself and melted a lead inside one of my 26650s. Exacto knifed the top off the sony and fixed the melted piece of metal and superglued back together.
my first attempt at a 120w raptor box failed...
thing started smoking slightly. don't think it was the chip that was doing so. it appeared like solder was being attracted to the battery somehow. very weird.
I chucked the device and got the batteries out quickly.
thing started smoking slightly. don't think it was the chip that was doing so. it appeared like solder was being attracted to the battery somehow. very weird.
I chucked the device and got the batteries out quickly.
Think the problem is I fried the chip with a short of some kind. It receives voltage in, when I press fire the voltage for the on/off pin changes, but there is no voltage being sent out from the trim pin, like it does for my working box, and there is no output voltage whatsoever, could it be anything but the chip that's bad?
quick question...
I've seen the Mamu wiring that has sense +/- not being used, as well as the one in OP that has it being used.
what are the benefits of using those pins as opposed to not using them?
I've seen the Mamu wiring that has sense +/- not being used, as well as the one in OP that has it being used.
what are the benefits of using those pins as opposed to not using them?
With the sense hooked up the board reads the voltage on the sense wires and adjusts output based on that.
Without them hooked up it reads the voltage at the board and adjusts output based on that.
If your leads from the board to the atty connections are short and big enough to minimize voltage loss you do not need to use the sense.
If you have more than .5V drop between the board and the atty connections the sense will not work properly even if hooked up.
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I know this is a little off subject but... I just remembered I have some efest 18350 imr that are almost 2 years old. I totally forgot bout them and they have been out away. One reads 2.5 volts. Is this dangerous? I'm not trying to use them, in just wondering if it's safe to have in the house. I'll take it to Home Depot soon. But what happens if I just let it sit for 10years. Would it just go down to 0. Would it vent?
No, I know the recommended method of disposing of lipo rc batteries is to drain them as much as possible then submerge in salt water for 24 hrs or until it reads 0v before sending for recycle.
No they won't vent from sitting around but the longer they set at below 3v the faster they will degrade. You generally need to physically damage the cells to get them to vent ie hit it with a hammer. A hard short might do it also but not just sitting.
No they won't vent from sitting around but the longer they set at below 3v the faster they will degrade. You generally need to physically damage the cells to get them to vent ie hit it with a hammer. A hard short might do it also but not just sitting.
Ok cool. I don't plan on using them ever again. I actually forgot about them.
Where can I take them? This was my first set of batteries so... Yeah. Never had to think about this.
Any battery store should accept cells for recycle. I would assume home depot would accept them also.
Unfortunately most of these probably just get thrown it the trash.
Unfortunately most of these probably just get thrown it the trash.
Sounds good. I'll let Home Depot take responsibility of them. If they wanna throw them away and possibly cause a fire I guess that's there business. Thanks
Finished my first box ever the other day raptor 20a in 1590b, now I finished my second box raptor 20a in 1590g, using full size switch, full size pot and full size fuses. It was a very challenging build. I'm thinking a pull tab for the batts would be handy. Now to try building some squonkers/sx350/OKR boxes.
P16NP471MAB15 requires a 350ohm resistor between the 2 pot pins to make it behave like a 200ohm pot, as per the photo that was posted earlier in this thread. I love the analog feel of the big knob, so much more fun to use than clicky buttons, or micro pots that need a screwdriver to adjust.
Can anyone help me with part numbers for potentiometers that I wont have difficulty epoxying into my case. The ones I ordered get epoxy on the and cant turn... bummed out about it.
Well, you can use the one just mentioned, I think Rapture mentioned it earlier in the thread also. It mounts with a nut so you don't need epoxy. I was just really careful and used just a little bit of epoxy at first just to get it to stay in place, then went back over it with a little more later.
I have that one, but will need other types that are cheaper for some of the boxes I am selling to friends. Like screw driver type potentiometers. The knob ones are like 12$ each.. not trying to buy 7 of those 
Look at this one T7RYB201KT20. Should be easier to epoxy in place. This one might work also 91AR200LF. Just guessing as I don't have any of these in hand.
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