Raptor Flip-Top VV Mod with 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...

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texanator

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Jun 20, 2014
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I would be interested in a few of those, 10 would be good if you have enough.

I bought a box of 50 pots long time ago, I've used a few, but I have 40+ left. I want to keep ~10,
so plenty available. PM me for contact info if you want some.

pots.jpg
 

texanator

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dfw,tx
I'll say once again, always follow the wiring diagram in the OP, not the parts list in that post. The wiring diagram is externally linked and always kept updated. I can no longer edit the OP to change the parts list to correspond with the wiring diagram. I wish I could, but that option is not available and hasn't been for months and months.

I know there's a lot of posts in this thread, but if you take the time to read them you'll find why we changed the pull-down resistor from 7.5K to 4.7K. You'll also find out why we now connect +/- sense. You'll also find lots of tips and techniques of how modders did their builds and the parts they used and links to those parts.

We'll be repeating this all the time...

Mamu, perhaps you can add some red text into the image itself stating that the parts shown in the image are the ones to be used and not the ones listed in the text portion of the post.
 

texanator

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Jun 20, 2014
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Question? How can i test resistance of a pot? I have i couple lying around (from dead ego-c-twist, and spinners) that i might want to use if i can fir my build.

You can test the resistance with a multimeter. Once you know the resistance, then you would use "parallel resistor formula" (google it) to determine what you need. You don't want to be too far off with the pot to begin with, because adding a parallel resistor changes the linearity of the pot.
 

Joshleeman

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You can test the resistance with a multimeter. Once you know the resistance, then you would use "parallel resistor formula" (google it) to determine what you need. You don't want to be too far off with the pot to begin with, because adding a parallel resistor changes the linearity of the pot.

Hey tex I wanted to ask you about that 470 ohm pot. I read you need a 350 ohm res to make it perform like a 200 ohm. Does the 350 res go from wiper to outer leg that has the 220 res on it? There was a pic much earlier in the thread but the image was taken down from the hosting site.
 

juggalofisher88

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Here's the blue voltage reader I ordered but they are all over ebay just search for blue 0.28 voltmeter. The only one I found in the US was 15 bucks which is beyond rediculous. And I would buy a good quality pot, bc resistance isn't the only factor. You want accuracy as well.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/171457011320?txnId=1270850713007
Pics in description .[/QUOTE] Th...ttp://postimg.com/154000/sig-153231.jpg[/img]
 

Joshleeman

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yep, the extra 350ohm resistor for the 470ohm pot goes between wiper and the leg with the 220ohm resistor (and snip off the 3rd leg of the pot).

Sweet thanks

I bought a box of 50 pots long time ago, I've used a few, but I have 40+ left. I want to keep ~10,
so plenty available. PM me for contact info if you want some.

View attachment 375648

Those 93PR200LF are the nice ones, sold out everywhere unless you buy 50+. Saw them for like 12 bucks on amazon today lol umm yeah no, The nice beefy dial one costs 12.17. I have the shaft one installed, well if you call it that, but I'm not liking it at all. I'm scared to use epoxy around it because I feel its just gonna run into the spinning part so I just threw some electrical tape over the exposed legs on the mounting side and another piece of tape over it and then epoxied over the tape. I'm not happy with it though because its just super bulky not even close to solid enough for me to be content keeping it. Just leaving it for now so I have a working raptor and will switch it out for my backordered 93PR200LF's. Gonna use the nice dial 470 on my next build, love the look and solid mounting style.
 

Vlad1

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Totally out of subject... but all these signature banners stating "ex-smoker for blaablaa days, $xxxx saved...etc..." Yeah, I'd like a more realistic one stating the saved money as "at least $xxxx spent on vaping gear!" :) Because I don't think I've really saved any money, it's all gone to something else.

Yea I had the same thought as you. There are a few banner sites that allow you to estimate juice and consumables / month but not gear I put together a spreadsheet and embeded my banner into it so I can actually see what my savings have been vs what the banner says. I was in the red for several months initially but have finally gone into the black. I do find myself using this savings as justification for buying other toys unrelated to vaping :) Right now it says I've saved $1490 saved but will all the gear I've bought I've really only saved about $428

Image was re-sized to small to see so here's a temporary share if your interested.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1FuXEIxgHaLAzo7qF8j2kShSJJeRtbz4M1HgK2EdaUzA/edit?usp=sharing

Capture.jpg
 
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Joshleeman

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holy smokes.... or vapes that is.

Read a lot of this thread today; so confused, lol. I think i'm gonna have to start with a unregulated box mod for my first one.

i'll be back though.

I'm sure anyone without an electronic background is confused when they first start reading about this build. My head felt like it was gonna explode the first time I read through this device. I recognized the words as english but they might as well have been chinese. Just take your time and get a solid understanding of the parts, what they do, and only then start building. Thats what I did, I researched this build for several weeks before even considering buying my first part. Take your time with it, it's so worth it because it's really neat to vape on such a beastly device that you built yourself. Check out the no idle drain circuit diagram on page 33, it's only about 3 dollars worth of extra parts and about 2 minutes of extra work and you get the added benefits listed for that build. I hadnt soldered in over 20 years so if I could do it, just about anyone can. IMO the hardest part, once you understand what your doing, is fitting and organizing everything into the enclosure. Oh yeah and many of the parts are dirt cheap so try to at least by double what you need for as many of the parts as you can besides stuff like battery sled, enclosure. And finally if you do decide to complete this or any of these builds, all I can say is welcome to your new addiction!!
 

juggalofisher88

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holy smokes.... or vapes that is.

Read a lot of this thread today; so confused, lol. I think i'm gonna have to start with a unregulated box mod for my first one.

i'll be back though.

Heck with an unregulated build you would still need a mosfet, to take the load of the switch.
Finding a switch that can handle a load is going to be tough, and it would be huge.

sig-153231.jpg
 

Gummy Bare

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I'm sure anyone without an electronic background is confused when they first start reading about this build. My head felt like it was gonna explode the first time I read through this device. I recognized the words as english but they might as well have been chinese. Just take your time and get a solid understanding of the parts, what they do, and only then start building. Thats what I did, I researched this build for several weeks before even considering buying my first part. Take your time with it, it's so worth it because it's really neat to vape on such a beastly device that you built yourself. Check out the no idle drain circuit diagram on page 33, it's only about 3 dollars worth of extra parts and about 2 minutes of extra work and you get the added benefits listed for that build. I hadnt soldered in over 20 years so if I could do it, just about anyone can. IMO the hardest part, once you understand what your doing, is fitting and organizing everything into the enclosure. Oh yeah and many of the parts are dirt cheap so try to at least by double what you need for as many of the parts as you can besides stuff like battery sled, enclosure. And finally if you do decide to complete this or any of these builds, all I can say is welcome to your new addiction!!

Thanks man, good info there for sure. I'm just starting my reading phase. But when I jump into something, I do it up. It will be killer to vape off something I made myself.

I got a buddy that's been vaping longer than me... But I got into it crazy like, wile he just kept getting the same stuff. I've been giving him mods and building all his coils and stuff. He mods air soft guns and has a ton of soldering equipment and more house room than me. I think I'll get two of everything and him and me can make them together. Two heads would be better than one, plus he's hella smart. So I think I'll do all the research and get that parts, then bring him into it at that point. He likes tinkering with stuff.

:: sent from android with tapatalk ::
 

Gummy Bare

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Heck with an unregulated build you would still need a mosfet, to take the load of the switch.
Finding a switch that can handle a load is going to be tough, and it would be huge.

sig-153231.jpg

Yea, I was gonna go the mosfet chip rout for sure. I don't know much yet, but it seemed like the safer rout from what I was reading since switch ratings aren't always accurate (and like you said, I'd need a big switch to handle the subohm builds if I didn't go that rout).

For some reason, I assumed the mosfet chip would be super easy compared to a regulated chip. Maybe I'm way off and there just the same amount of work... Minus the voltage control dial.

:: sent from android with tapatalk ::
 

Vlad1

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We'll be repeating this all the time...

Mamu, perhaps you can add some red text into the image itself stating that the parts shown in the image are the ones to be used and not the ones listed in the text portion of the post.

That's a good idea. Or better yet amend the original image to include the parts list. I know I've seen the part listing in at least 3-4 other forums where the list didn't match the image. Would save a lot of forum thrashing to find the most current documentation.
 

mamu

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Done. OP wiring guide updated with latest parts list. :)

If you need to substitute a resistor because OOS, look for the ohm value you need with 1% tolerance, 1/4W or lower.

If you need to substitute the zener diode because of OOS or you want a higher voltage value (you'll need at least 6.2v for lipo mods), look for the voltage value you need with 500mW power dissipation - you don't need or want a zener with a higher power dissipation.

raptor-wiring-latest.png
 

Vlad1

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Thanks mamu your awesome!!!! What I was thinking was if you updated the original file all the forums that were linked to the original file at http://www.mamumods.com/pics/raptor7.png would automatically be updated whenever there was an amendment or revision with only a single change on the source image. Either way thank you:)
 
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