Rayon wick, better flow, flavor, saturation and Nic Hit!

[juggalofisher88]

Alrighty hear we go
Big dripper clone http://imageshack.com/a/img913/1281/5A86iW.jpg
Twiztid 2 strand 32g nichrome80, 1.98mm ID, 8wraps, higher resistance than i wanted(and also forgot ohms :banghead: )

Single tails, 70% trim from top. This sucker is vaping till the rayon looks like its never been wet.(not the following pic it was took before i juice it up)

Vapor meh ok
Flavor uhh my cat has had alot of catnip bro. soo... .. . We'll come back to that later.

 

[Moonbogg]

Here it is. I changed the wick and dry burned, but honestly it was still going OK and I could have waited until tomorrow morning. I went ahead and did it now though.

28ga
8 wraps
1.5 ohms
.097 coil ID (screw driver)
vaping between 4.3 and 4.5 volts on Provari 2.5 (12.3 to 13.5 watts)
Kayfun Lite+ V2 (unmodified, airflow fully open and mouth hitting only)

Pretty tight in the coil, but not jammed hard. I had to use my finger nail to hold the coil in place a little. One concern I have, is that when I trim the tails, the wick near the coil is cut short, and I am afraid the tail is thin and doesn't saturate the wick all the way through. Sometimes the wick has a thin layer that looks like its peeling off the coil and the full thickness of the wick might not get the flow of juice to it. I had a burnt wick pretty bad one day, and that day the wick was as I am describing.

Wick trimmed at an angle in an effort to thin them out a little.

In this image, you can see in the bottom portion of the image, the wick appears to be sort of disconnected from the tails a little. This concerns me as I am afraid as a result of trimming, the tails don't contact the full thickness of the wick in the coil and may result in uneven saturation. That's my paranoid guess anyway. Any comments or suggestions are welcome.

 

[awsum140]

That looks better, but don't be afraid to trim close to the coil. I trim with my cutters, basically, against the coil itself, to get really close but he principle remains the same. The thinner the tails the better rayon wicks.. I am using Foggers versus your KF.

 

[Thayamax]

I do a much heavier trim in my KFL+ and I can run my wicks for a long time without loss of flavor or vapor and without serious gunking. I take the top 1/2 to 2/3 of the tail off, from the bottom tip to as near the coil as possible. This allows the juice to wick upward and eliminates backwash from the wick inside the coil. Here's an illustration of how I do it with great success. Of course, YMMV.

(don't laugh...I've never used Paint before

 

[Dusty_D]

I do a much heavier trim in my KFL+ and I can run my wicks for a long time without loss of flavor or vapor and without serious gunking. I take the top 1/2 to 2/3 of the tail off, from the bottom tip to as near the coil as possible. This allows the juice to wick upward and eliminates backwash from the wick inside the coil. Here's an illustration of how I do it with great success. Of course, YMMV.

(don't laugh...I've never used Paint before

View attachment 397687

I think it was figured out early on that this was the best way to wick the KFL's. I remember doing a similar graphic a couple months ago..

 

[Kingboomer]

this may be off topic, but I've been seeing a lot on parallel coils. How does one wrap one of these?? I can't seem to find any info on it with a quick search...


-Kingboomer

 

[Thayamax]

I think it was figured out early on that this was the best way to wick the KFL's. I remember doing a similar graphic a couple months ago..

Yes, you did a great graphic, and the regulars on the thread are all familiar with the best way to trim wicks. I just wanted to share it with Moonbogg since he must have missed that lesson.

 

[Dusty_D]

Yes, you did a great graphic, and the regulars on the thread are all familiar with the best way to trim wicks. I just wanted to share it with Moonbogg since he must have missed that lesson.

Copy that! missed that part about it being a tutorial for Moonbogg.

 

[Moonbogg]

Thanks guys. I'll try that. I cut the crap out of that sucker next time.

 

[AMDTrucking]

AMD,... I thought so... but wanted to confirm it... and while I have only found a single source at the moment... it looks like you/we need to better understand the temperature that it's reaching.

Material	Open annealing *C	Closed annealing *C	Stress relieving *C
Nickel 200	815 to 925	705 to 760	480 to 705
Nickel 201	760 to 870	705 to 760	480 to 705

Source: Heat Treating of Nickel and Nickel Alloys :: KEY to METALS Articles

Any chance you can set your temp limit to around 1300 *F (705*C) and give it a shot?

EDIT: Cleaned up the table

I was actually referring to dry burning, when it glows red-hot. What temperature is that?

 

[Woofer]

Perhaps this helps Temperature of a "Red Hot"Object

Temperature of a "Red Hot"Object

 

[cobalt327]

this may be off topic, but I've been seeing a lot on parallel coils. How does one wrap one of these?? I can't seem to find any info on it with a quick search...


-Kingboomer

There are bound to be tutorials on youtube, but in the meantime, HERE is a guide a fellow did that fairly well shows the concept. Obviously, pay attention to the resistance and always use a meter to verify before setting up the atty for vaping the first time.

 

[Kingboomer]

Many thanks man!

There are bound to be tutorials on youtube, but in the meantime, HERE is a guide a fellow did that fairly well shows the concept. Obviously, pay attention to the resistance and always use a meter to verify before setting up the atty for vaping the first time.

 

[JimmyDB]

I was actually referring to dry burning, when it glows red-hot. What temperature is that?

I understood what you were talking about... I provided the table to see if we are even getting it to within the annealing temp. That is why I was suggesting to possibly use the temp control built in to the DNA40, but I see it only goes up to 600 *F.

I have an IR thermometer (a few) and some thermocouples... but I don't think the IR will work correctly due to the wavelengths emitted from the coil and I'll have to see if my thermocouples are rated for these temps, but I'm willing to compare what I get in real world tests to the link provided by Woofer... dang, except I don't have any Ni20x handy,... well, I might.

Perhaps this helps Temperature of a "Red Hot"Object
Temperature of a "Red Hot"Object

I'm just brainstorming here...

Color		Approximate Temperature
	°F	°C	K
Faint Red	930	500	770
Blood Red	1075	580	855
Dark Cherry	1175	635	910
Medium Cherry	1275	690	965
Cherry	1375	745	1020
Bright Cherry	1450	790	1060

One thing to note would be that 'Bright Cherry' seems to start around 790... which should be under the 815 that marks the start of open annealing for Ni200. Generally, there is more to the annealing process just like the hardening/tempering process... but annealing is such a quick interaction and given the tiny mass of our coils... that I think we would find that just a couple seconds above the 'open' temp will have the effect.

A couple simple tests would be to make two identical coils (within reason) and attach a small weight to one and measure how much it stretches (Nickel = very small weight )... and then do the same thing with the other coil after you dry-burn it. If it's still tempered, then it should deform the same under the same forces... but we would have to consider the stress release at the lower temp as well.

Otherwise, I think the simple fix would simply be to not glow the coil as much or even to only dry burn it at the 600 °F the DNA40 can temp limit.

If someone wanted to get fancy... they could make an attachment which would alter the measured resistance to enable to DNA40 to limit the temp at a higher level. Since the resistance goes up with temp on Ni200... this could be as simple as adding resistance externally to the posts for a net result of lowered resistance. Something with a much lower thermal coefficient (like Kanthal) might be suitable.

 

[HolmanGT]

Perhaps this helps Temperature of a "Red Hot"Object

Temperature of a "Red Hot"Object

Woofer,

I never realized there was such information about color and temp available. Thank you for the link. I have marked it and even copied the data to a word document.

Regards,
George

 

[diceman1000]

Can anyone tell me why I have more trouble with dry hits with rayon than cotton in my KFL?

Sent from my LGUS990 using Tapatalk

 

[Neolithium]

Can anyone tell me why I have more trouble with dry hits with rayon than cotton in my KFL?

Sent from my LGUS990 using Tapatalk

When I switched to rayon in my KFL I needed a little more than I would with cotton, a build with it just barely touching the deck resulted in the same dry hits. Now there's a nice bed in the Kayfun and it seems to be working quite well. Rayon doesn't expand like cotton so its easier to under-wick with it than other mediums.

 

[JimmyDB]

Can anyone tell me why I have more trouble with dry hits with rayon than cotton in my KFL?

Sent from my LGUS990 using Tapatalk

Can you show a picture of your build? Also, are you treating the Rayon the same as you did cotton, in reference to amount used, etc?

 

[Woofer]

Woofer,

I never realized there was such information about color and temp available. Thank you for the link. I have marked it and even copied the data to a word document.

Regards,
George

You are most welcome, glad you found it useful!

 

[OthatGuy]

You waft it a little tighter than you would with cotton and you can thin the wicks a bit more aswell