Rayon wick, better flow, flavor, saturation and Nic Hit!

[Chinook]

I use an old Evod base to screw the head into for wicking. The base is screwed to my smok volt/ohm meter. Basically the same thing Flavored recommended above. Now if I could just SEE the dam thing! lol But that's what they make those funky magnifier visors for.

I was having the same problem with the coils distorting when wicking the Kanger heads. I have taken to using the double insertion method for wicking them, this is especially helpful when using 34 gauge. I don't stress about missing getting the density perfect, although after doing so many I have it down pretty good. I tend to use less than what's needed when I miss, adding a bit more using the needle threader method puts things right in a jiffy!

Thanks! 34 gauge would be quite tricky! I work with 33 and I wish I did with 32s Hopefully with the vice, my wicking will be more stable

By the way, I just received this today:

https://www.fasttech.com/products/1521201

The R part is about 40 mm and it gave 6 full wraps with 1.8mm ID. I haven't measured the resistance yet though.

 

[cindycated]

Shoot, you remind me, next time I pull out the plume I will try the extra fluffy over bed of rayon on the empty side touching over to the main side. To hold juice add capacity and hopefully reduce leaking.

(Main tails still need to be thinned but will feed from overbed reserve)

Kinda carto like, taking cues from my first rayon builds with the vcore. (Now known as the chimney coil)

My experience with V-core, and everything else that was wicked on the outside was hit and miss. Supposed to be way easier, but I could never get the density right - got coil burn more often than not, no matter how much I stuffed around the coil. But on the very few times that I got it right, it was pretty awesome. I did one in a genny once, where the nano coil was pointed right at the air hole. Pushed it down into a bed with the tail thinned down and going down into the tank. Wicked really well, dripper-quality wet, but burnt hits. What's the trick to those?

 

[cindycated]

I use an old Evod base to screw the head into for wicking. The base is screwed to my Smok volt/ohm meter. Basically the same thing Flavored recommended above. Now if I could just SEE the dam thing! lol But that's what they make those funky magnifier visors for.

I was having the same problem with the coils distorting when wicking the Kanger heads. I have taken to using the double insertion method for wicking them, this is especially helpful when using 34 gauge. I don't stress about missing getting the density perfect, although after doing so many I have it down pretty good. I tend to use less than what's needed when I miss, adding a bit more using the needle threader method puts things right in a jiffy!

Shoot, would Evod bases work on that type of head? Chinook, I have a few of those - PM me if you want one.

 

[jefsview]

The spaced coils are working great on cutting down the pre-mature gunking with the rayon wick. I can tell from the flavor still being true and not getting nasty, of course. Plus on my few Aqua V2 clones I can actually check my deck while refilling, allowing me to adjust or trim the rayon as needed. The coils look good as compared to the contact/micro-coils after the same exposure.

This makes me happy

The liquid in the tanks are still growing darker due to the heating, and this might force me to change out the wick prematurely even though the flavor is still true and untainted.

 

[PaulBHC]

Before you replace them, try water rinse and let dry.

 

[cindycated]

Yikes, never mind...

I just watched a vid on how to rebuild a PT3 and yeah, it's pretty jacked up how the base swallows the coil like that. Looking at the head though, a different base for building would probably make it a lot easier.

 

[Chinook]

Is this what you have?


Looks like that top bell cap/sleeve thing that's blocking the coil comes off, no?


Have you tried unscrewing it?

If it comes off, piece of cake. Just screw the base onto any 510, like Jeremy said.

Thank you very much But no, that's not what I have. Please see below.



This is similar to the bases I have with the head screwed in (Protank2 one). The head sits sunk into the base. See how low the silicone sleeve is. The coil access is blocked by the metal threading.

 

[awsum140]

Before you replace them, try water rinse and let dry.

When I do a rinse, I don't bother to let it dry. The first two or three hits are just steam as the water vaporizes out/off, then back to the normal vapor of a rayon wick. To be honest, I did the same thing with silica. Water is just another liquid that will vaporize when heated.

 

[Flavored]

Thank you very much But no, that's not what I have. Please see below.

View attachment 407890

This is similar to the bases I have with the head screwed in (Protank2 one). The head sits sunk into the base. See how low the silicone sleeve is. The coil access is blocked by the metal threading.

Yeah, that T3s base presents the coil and wick slot way better. I don't use anything to hold the base, just poke the point of the wick through and pull while pinching on the "feed" side of the coil. Works fine b

 

[SlickWilly]

Thank you very much But no, that's not what I have. Please see below.

View attachment 407890

This is similar to the bases I have with the head screwed in (Protank2 one). The head sits sunk into the base. See how low the silicone sleeve is. The coil access is blocked by the metal threading.

Chinook, I use the same ProTank II air flow base as in you photo above, those PT2 coil head's will screw right into the T3S base and then it's exposed and very easy to wick. Below is an old pic I posted in the past, shows a PT2 head in one of these T3S bases, not a very good angle for this post though.
See the pic on this link, it shows it better --> http://www.gotvapes.com/images/t3sbase.png

(Click to enlarge)


The PT2 head's are almost identical to the T3S head's, in fact if you have any T3S head's you can use them in the PT2, just take the top rubber cap off the chimney first. I used the Kanger T3S clearo's for a few years and have a ton of those head's I rebuild, when I moved to the PT2 I didn't want to buy a bunch of new head's, I think it was Jeremy who mentioned you could use those head's in the PT2. I have been doing this for a couple months now and I get zero leakage into the tube.

The round flange ring, just above the o-ring on the head's is larger on the PT2 head's then the T3S head's. Also if you take the chimney off the head's (they both use the identical chimney) and measure the length of the head you'll find the T3S's are just a little longer/taller then the PT2's, it just so happens it's just about the thickness of that rubber cap. If you take a T3S head with the rubber cap left on and tried to put it in a PT2 tank it's too tight, but take the cap off and it works great.

You can use T3S head's in PT2 tanks but not the other way around because the large flange ring on the PT2 head's will not fit up inside a T3S clearo, they are also too short.

 

[JeremyR]

The liquid in the tanks are still growing darker due to the heating, and this might force me to change out the wick prematurely even though the flavor is still true and untainted.

I don't see why dark juice in the tank would make you have to change a wick. Which tank are you speaking of jeff? ..

I just run the tanks dry refill and the fresh juice basically cleans the wicks of any darkened juice... I personally have never tried to wash it with water.. The wick has never been a problem for me it will go clear with fresh juice, it doesn't hold anything.

The coil is the only problem I ever have; dripping on it and lightly wiping it with a folded paper towel removes any burnt juice dry hit residue when I accidentally forget to refill or drip.

Do you mean your getting back flow into the tank?

 

[cobalt327]

Thanks! 34 gauge would be quite tricky! I work with 33 and I wish I did with 32s Hopefully with the vice, my wicking will be more stable

By the way, I just received this today:

https://www.fasttech.com/products/1521201

The R part is about 40 mm and it gave 6 full wraps with 1.8mm ID. I haven't measured the resistance yet though.

lol I have some of those coming, too. Also picked up SKU 1620601 (2 ohm nominal) for evaluation- I have had outstanding results at 2 ohms using rayon and Spinner/iStick Mini VV-type batteries. Those welded wires make building my wire welder almost unnecessary being as how cheap they are but I've already amassed all the parts needed so I'll build it anyway. Besides being a tool junkie, the wire welder will no doubt come in handy for things like adding NR wire tails to ribbon wire coils, etc.

Shoot, would Evod bases work on that type of head? Chinook, I have a few of those - PM me if you want one.

Sure- the Evod bases are basically same thing (for this application) as the bases Flavored first mentioned and SlickWilly expanded on. They leave the juice slots of the head fully exposed unlike the Protank type bases that obscure a clear shot at the slots. I think this is by now fairly well covered, I'm late (as usual) to the party.

 

[Chinook]

Yeah, that T3s base presents the coil and wick slot way better. I don't use anything to hold the base, just poke the point of the wick through and pull while pinching on the "feed" side of the coil. Works fine b

Thank you very much

Chinook, I use the same ProTank II air flow base as in you photo above, those PT2 coil head's will screw right into the T3S base and then it's exposed and very easy to wick. Below is an old pic I posted in the past, shows a PT2 head in one of these T3S bases, not a very good angle for this post though.
See the pic on this link, it shows it better --> http://www.gotvapes.com/images/t3sbase.png

(Click to enlarge)
View attachment 407935
.

Thanks for the pictures. It makes it very clear. This clarifies the videos how Jeremy can wick the Evod heads attached to the battery

 

[Chinook]

lol I have some of those coming, too. Also picked up SKU 1620601 (2 ohm nominal) for evaluation- I have had outstanding results at 2 ohms using rayon and Spinner/iStick Mini VV-type batteries. Those welded wires make building my wire welder almost unnecessary being as how cheap they are but I've already amassed all the parts needed so I'll build it anyway. Besides being a tool junkie, the wire welder will no doubt come in handy for things like adding NR wire tails to ribbon wire coils, etc.

Sure- the Evod bases are basically same thing (for this application) as the bases Flavored first mentioned. They leave the juice slots of the head fully exposed unlike the Protank type bases that obscure a clear shot at the slots. I think this is by now fairly well covered, I'm late (as usual) to the party.

I've been using the 2 Ohm coils (by rewrapping to ID 1.8 mm), but I have some "R" part acting as legs after I dropped to 6 wraps from 7. That's probably giving me about 1.7-1.8 Ohms around the wick. I've been very happy with these + PT2 and itaste VV3 almost exactly like you. I don't think the 1.8 Ohm ones will make a big difference -- and crossing my fingers here

I'm sure you'll find a very good and fun use for that wire welder

 

[jefsview]

I don't see why dark juice in the tank would make you have to change a wick. Which tank are you speaking of jeff? ..

I just run the tanks dry refill and the fresh juice basically cleans the wicks of any darkened juice... I personally have never tried to wash it with water.. The wick has never been a problem for me it will go clear with fresh juice, it doesn't hold anything.

The coil is the only problem I ever have; dripping on it and lightly wiping it with a folded paper towel removes any burnt juice dry hit residue when I accidentally forget to refill or drip.

Do you mean your getting back flow into the tank?

It's just appearance. A trigger set in my mind when I was using cotton. Was usually a sign that it was time to change. Sort of like learning to use rayon differently than cotton -- you form habits that need to be re-learned.

That one is a KFL+ clone, btw, with a M-tank.

 

[readeuler]

Well, I've ripped out my 24ga build, hence the wicks (definitely made 50ml though, so that's good).

Rebuilt a dual parallel 28ga coil, 7/8 wrap 2mm ID, clocks in a hair over 0.3 ohms, something like 0.304. Not looking forward to that again! The wicking seemed to go well, I've just made it past a slight rayon taste, which lasted for 5 hits. So, things are looking good!

The 24ga was just unruly. I liked the old build a lot, but it definitely wanted to get warmer than I like, and I had to baby it after a few dozen ml - short pulses or I'd get a funky taste. That all could be due to incorrect rayon density, but it didn't seem to like any density I threw at it for long enough.

So, I'm revisiting higher gauges. Still shooting for a nice cloudy vape, so we'll see how this compares.

Old stats
Surface area: 116 mm^2
Heat flux @ 50 watts: 201mW/mm^2
Heat Capacity: 51.92 (not writing units here!)

New stats
SA: 125 mm^2
Heat flux @ 50 watts: 185
Heat Capacity: 35.45

I'm realizing that Surface Area and Heatflux combined are a little redundant, but I'm pleased with the trend in those numbers: More surface area and less heat capacity. We'll see how my wicks like the change. The per-coil mass dropped from 123mg to 77mg as well, again seeming good.

 

[tchavei]

This is too scientific for me...?

Regards
Tony

Sent from my phone through a keyboard (or something like that)

 

[readeuler]

This is too scientific for me...?

Regards
Tony

Sent from my phone through a keyboard (or something like that)

I'll turn it over to myself for analysis
They're gonna be cooler coils that heat up and cool down more quickly.

I've always just built to a certain resistance, now I'm just trying to pay attention to things I've ignored before. And leaving a breadcrumb trail that I can look up in the future, that's all

 

[AMDTrucking]

I'll turn it over to myself for analysis
They're gonna be cooler coils that heat up and cool down more quickly.

I've always just built to a certain resistance, now I'm just trying to pay attention to things I've ignored before. And leaving a breadcrumb trail that I can look up in the future, that's all

IMHO. Flat ribbon is the answer to less power drawn, faster heat-up and more surface coverage. And in combination with Rayon, simply the best overall vape experience shy of Temperature Control.

This one is High Ohm build 1.2Ω of 0.6mm ribbon. It needs the power like 30AWG and lights up just as quickly, but covers the area of 24 AWG round wire.

See for yourself:

I glows brighter, but the picture gets out of focus then.

 

[readeuler]

IMHO. Flat ribbon is the answer to less power drawn, faster heat-up and more surface coverage. And in combination with Rayon, simply the best overall vape experience shy of Temperature Control.

I know you're the king of flat ribbon, AMD, and it always looks like it works very well. I'll have to look more closely at the circuit diagram for building my own little welder that you and awsum have passed around. I don't know the first thing about any of that stuff, unfortunately.