Rayon wick, better flow, flavor, saturation and Nic Hit!
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A friend donated some cellucotton rayon and I am loving it. At first I was disappointed, but after discovering you have to pack it tight unlike cotton, I'm impressed.
This has led me to look for rayon yarn, as I feel I can thread the yarn through the coils rather tight with a piece of kanthal (hope you understand what I'm saying. I've done it with cotton yarn). It looks like tencel yarn fits this bill nicely, as it is a cellulose fabric. I found some tencel yarn 8/2 online, but have no idea how yarn is sized. Is it similar in diameter to the old peaches and creme cotton yarn? I looked up specs for that yarn, but couldn't find much.
Has anyone had any luck with tencel or rayon yarn? I searched for "tencel" and "yarn" in this massive thread, but from what I saw, the tencel being used wasn't yarn. It looked loose (not woven, but still straight) but not as fluffy as the rayon.
This has led me to look for rayon yarn, as I feel I can thread the yarn through the coils rather tight with a piece of kanthal (hope you understand what I'm saying. I've done it with cotton yarn). It looks like tencel yarn fits this bill nicely, as it is a cellulose fabric. I found some tencel yarn 8/2 online, but have no idea how yarn is sized. Is it similar in diameter to the old peaches and creme cotton yarn? I looked up specs for that yarn, but couldn't find much.
Has anyone had any luck with tencel or rayon yarn? I searched for "tencel" and "yarn" in this massive thread, but from what I saw, the tencel being used wasn't yarn. It looked loose (not woven, but still straight) but not as fluffy as the rayon.
I'd stay away from "yarn grade" rayon. It has probably been treated with additional chemicals to make it into yarn, especially for colors, even white. JermeyR is the resident expert on this one, but I'd stick with just 100% rayon in its virgin state for safety. You need to check the MSDS for the specific product you plan on using to make sure it is chemically pure.
I have used tencel, pure rayon tencel, and not yarn tencel. It is "stiffer" than regular, pure, rayon which make is good for some applications and bad for others. It is harder to get a tight tip on than regular 100% rayon as well which also adds to the difficulty of working with it.
The safest, at least to me, are Graham CelluCotton, actually 100% pure rayon, or medical grade 100$ rayon balls from Delasco or others. Safety is a big concern with anything used for inhalation.
I have used tencel, pure rayon tencel, and not yarn tencel. It is "stiffer" than regular, pure, rayon which make is good for some applications and bad for others. It is harder to get a tight tip on than regular 100% rayon as well which also adds to the difficulty of working with it.
The safest, at least to me, are Graham CelluCotton, actually 100% pure rayon, or medical grade 100$ rayon balls from Delasco or others. Safety is a big concern with anything used for inhalation.
Agreed, the method (Lyocell method) used to form the rayon fibers for Tencel often creates longer and straighter strands so the end product, while still 100% pure cellulose, is stiffer and packs together tighter (think cotton sheets versus cotton balls). This isn't and doesn't have to always be the case though as the Lyocell method can/is tweaked to change the fiber.
I have Tencel fiber... have vaped with it... and will vape with it more, but it's not my everyday fiber. TIDI balls, CelluCotton and Delasco are better suited for everyday use IMHO.
Do make sure that if you are going to experiment, that you are sure the fiber hasn't been otherwise tainted and double check that what you receive is what you ordered, as best you can. It's a long, long thread... but it's worth the read.
You might try drilling some horizontal holes, and/or shorten the bottom of the post to increase the gap between the Center Post and the 510 Contact Screw. Mine had less than .4mm gap when the Juice Control was open, so it was pretty restrictive.
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Yarn is not recommended at all.
For one its not near as good, secondly the processing to make yarn adds impurities and processing chemicals. If you want yarn its aunt Lydia's bamboo, but I will reinforce it is not like this rayon fiber.
For one its not near as good, secondly the processing to make yarn adds impurities and processing chemicals. If you want yarn its aunt Lydia's bamboo, but I will reinforce it is not like this rayon fiber.
Yes, I went lazy on it. I took my Dremel and cut two long slots (criss-cross) with a Cut-off wheel. Kind of like +. Still far from Lemo.
Wait until you see what I'm doing to my K4. It's going to be a $2,000 atty by the time I get finished
Wait until you see what I'm doing to my K4. It's going to be a $2,000 atty by the time I get finished
I can't hardly wait
Do you have a Taifun GT II as well?
I milled the air intake hole on mine and it REALLY improved it's performance a lot.
Oh my god. You seem like you could use one atty and one mod combo differently every day and never repeat the same combination during a full year or maybe even two??
Talk about women and their shoe collections LOLOLLL
Regards
Tony
Sent from my phone through a keyboard or something like that
Talk about women and their shoe collections LOLOLLL
Regards
Tony
Sent from my phone through a keyboard or something like that
K4 Juice slots, teaser pix
Still testing, but so far, so good. Straight VG with Rayon at 40 watts and the juice is flowing like water now. I'll post up in the Svoemesto thread when I finish it up.
Still testing, but so far, so good. Straight VG with Rayon at 40 watts and the juice is flowing like water now. I'll post up in the Svoemesto thread when I finish it up.
K4 Juice slots, teaser pix
Still testing, but so far, so good. Straight VG with Rayon at 40 watts and the juice is flowing like water now. I'll post up in the Svoemesto thread when I finish it up.
That is some serious micro milling. At that depth. My hat is off to you. It is not shown on the photo, but the other side has a nasty angle to mill.
I forgot to ask: Did you do this to a "Mystery metal" clone or 304 SvoeMesto Stainless Steel?
Why? Because that "Mystery" one is easier to machine sometimes.
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26 gauge Ni200 is no challenge to build from. It is sturdy enough to dry burn it and re-wick it again.
This one is wrapped over 3.2mm rod and shows 0.14Ω and Rayon, of course.
This one is wrapped over 3.2mm rod and shows 0.14Ω and Rayon, of course.
That is some serious micro milling. At that depth. My hat is off to you. It is not shown on the photo, but the other side has a nasty angle to mill.
I forgot to ask: Did you do this to a "Mystery metal" clone or 304 SvoeMesto Stainless Steel?
Why? Because that "Mystery" one is easier to machine sometimes.
That's my $192 authentic!! It produces the best flavor of anything I own, but it just wouldn't flow enough juice, and I've got too much money in the thing to just give up on it. I'm sure I wouldn't have wasted so much time on a $30 clone.
Oh yeah, I didn't mill those slots: I CNC'd an electrode, then I burned them in my E.D.M.
It's the usual suspects from the Fogger v4 thread; AMD, BNEAT, awsum (if I've forgot to mention anyone, you know who you are!)
Who knows what threads they've engineered the hell out of in the past?
Personally I'm continually impressed; the ingenuity never ceases to amaze me. I at least know what kind of drill bits I need for SS now, Cobalt!
No, machined. The words my ex used to say about engineers are not suitable for this forum. Most reasonable meaning is idiots.
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