Rayon wick, better flow, flavor, saturation and Nic Hit!

[JeremyR]

It's looking good, full wick to chamber walls but not touching. You may want to spread the tails out a little so you can see if they are close to even density, them gently curve them down into position with a needle or something. Let them fan out. Then trim them to curve and fit perfectly when the chamber's on. Use juice to wet them down and make sure they are positioned correctly when wetted. Final trim any parts hanging over the threads with small sharp siccors. Drip more to fully saturate.

 

[Exchaner]

Here is another picture

 

[Exchaner]

Why is your coil positioned that way, that is a kayfun right? I don't see how that could vape very well.

Not getting on you or anything, I definitely want you to get the best vape possible.

That's why I said I should learn how to put it at 90 degrees- in other words rotate the coil 90 degrees. I usually instal the coil this way / - not the way you see in the pictures straight between the screws. Quite happy with it, maybe because I don't know any better .... So what is the correct way to install a coil on Kayfun, could I see a picture someone? Too embarrassing to ask these silly questions, but hey, I have a good excuse - I am a newbee.

 

[f1vefour]

Not embarrassing at all, the outlet of the coil should be aimed at the wick channels (cutouts).

By looking at the orientation of your picture you should have your coil turned where you could see through it in that picture.

Here is my suggestion for wicking based on your picture, cut where the black lines are and leave what's below the lines as your tails. The tails don't need to go in the channels, that slows the wicking and can cause back flow and dry hits.

 

[f1vefour]

I just filled my kayfun or I would have taken a picture for you.

 

[Exchaner]

I just filled my kayfun or I would have taken a picture for you.

Thanks 54, got it on both counts - rotate the coil, and trim at an angle at the top.

 

[f1vefour]

Thanks 54, got it on both counts - rotate the coil, and trim at an angle at the top.

That's it, wish I could have just said that instead of all the fluff and 5 minutes editing your picture on my phone

 

[f1vefour]

I run a similar build you have there, my current build is 2 stands of twisted 32g @ 2.3 ohms running 15 watts.

Wicked the way I described I have never gotten a dry hit and my mod lays on its side all night long every night with no leaks.

I'm using a bell cap on my Kayfun which has three less seams (and orings) so is much less likely to leak, take that leaking statement with a grain of salt if using the regular Kayfun in all its pieces.

On the right.

 

[atroph]

Not a kayfun but the principles are the same.. The wick looks extra thick but in reality it isn't. I trim 50% of the bulk from the top section so it bushes out. It touches the chamber barrel once screwed in. The I trim the remaining piece that hangs down even with the deck. Juice it up, screw barrel on and adjust wick so that it centered to the juice ports. I then put a toothpick down to hit the ports and move it a little to ensure that the port isn't plugged with wick.

That's just me and it seems to be working well.

This is a ni200 build that went through 15mL of highly flavored juice. Notice how limited and concentrated the black stuff is. The wick is doing what it should be.

Sent from my 0PJA2 using Tapatalk

 

[f1vefour]

Looking good atroph

 

[atroph]

Wick and trim ends so that they are at the edges of the atty. Fluff ends.

Trim 50% of the wick from the top portion of the "bowtie" wick. I use the center of the coil as a guide. I cut straight into the bowtie and put the tips of my scissors where the barrel screws into.

Trim the lower portion of the wick flush with the deck. I added a little juice for clarity.

Center wick over juice ports.

Use a toothpick or other pokey device to clear the ports. I sweep the wick gently to the side so that the port has clear flow. If you have the ability to zoom in you can actually see light on the left side at the bottom of the deck. That is the juice port opening.

Sent from my 0PJA2 using Tapatalk

 

[Exchaner]

I want that bell cap, but hate dealing with Fasttech.

 

[f1vefour]

I want that bell cap, but hate dealing with Fasttech.

I just order and forget about it, and I only order a few things at once so the anticipation doesn't get to me.

 

[Exchaner]

As to the tails, I estimate both of you guys are leaving 50% of the material intact. Mine is probably 25%. Curious, do you notice any difference in flavor between thin and thicker tails?

 

[atroph]

No, no flavor difference.

 

[f1vefour]

As to the tails, I estimate both of you guys are leaving 50% of the material intact. Mine is probably 25%. Curious, do you notice any difference in flavor between thin and thicker tales?

I leave about %20 really, that was just the closest I could draw on the image from my phone.

At the angle I trim it takes much of the mass away from the edges of the coil.

 

[vincom]

@atroph for my stmini i almost do the same, basically same as urs but imagine ur wick turned 180 degrees and i cut closer to the coil.
juice in the longer strands wick(now on top) will keep the bottom half of wick wet due to gravity.

 

[atroph]

@atroph for my stmini i almost do the same, basically same as urs but imagine ur wick turned 180 degrees and i cut closer to the coil.
juice in the longer strands wick(now on top) will keep the bottom half of wick wet due to gravity.

I used to do it that way with all my "tank" builds.

I switched methods as the longer tails on top method seemed to create an ideal path for crud to collect and the entire top tail portion would get full of black looking backflow.

With the short tails on top method the crud seems to collect in the upper portion of top and seems to seek out the outer portion.

Look at my pictures above ^^. The entire lower section of the wick is nice and clean whereas the very top portion has the crud buildup. For some reason that method seems to isolate the crud to the very top of the wick and almost seems to push it out to the edges.

 

[vincom]

I used to do it that way with all my "tank" builds.

I switched methods as the longer tails on top method seemed to create an ideal path for crud to collect and the entire top tail portion would get full of black looking backflow.

With the short tails on top method the crud seems to collect in the upper portion of top and seems to seek out the outer portion.

Look at my pictures above ^^. The entire lower section of the wick is nice and clean whereas the very top portion has the crud buildup. For some reason that method seems to isolate the crud to the very top of the wick and almost seems to push it out to the edges.

@atroph for my stmini i almost do the same, basically same as urs but imagine ur wick turned 180 degrees and i cut closer to the coil.
juice in the longer strands wick(now on top) will keep the bottom half of wick wet due to gravity.

i have 2 stminis w/dremelled out rba channels, i will rewick each one different to compare.
here is my wick about 2 weeks old vaped about 100mls of diy fruit juice, and coil is about 3 months old, looks ok to me w/longer wicks on top, vapes like a champ.
even though tail looks thick in pic half of the diameter of the tail is cut to the coil and trimmed to just touch top of deck.

 

[HolmanGT]

i have 2 stminis w/dremelled out rba channels, i will rewick each one different to compare.
here is my wick about 2 weeks old vaped about 100mls of diy fruit juice, and coil is about 3 months old, looks ok to me w/longer wicks on top, vapes like a champ.
even though tail looks thick in pic half of the diameter of the tail is cut to the coil and trimmed to just touch top of deck.

Vin,

I don't know what a stminis is but I dremeled out one of my Lemos the other night and it made a giant improvement in the ability of the wick to... well, wick. Oh and I cut the wick length about a 32nd of an inch about the juice deck so there is no way the wick can impede juice flow.

With the dremeled juice channel Lemo I polished a complete tank of juice in about four hours last night and never had any problems hitting TP which was set at 450F.

Which is why I have high hopes for the Cthulhu RTA V2 (if I ever get the darn thing) which already has giant juice channels.