Ahoy! Wow, Friday is already here again? The long 4 day holiday weekend I granted myself sure was nice but I now regret losing the work days.
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I also spent the last two days getting caught up with desk caddy orders, some of the orders were getting close to my 1 week deadline so I'm happy to get caught up with them again. Nearly a week lost but back to the batch I go today.
Cappy one question! I just got the Kayfun 3.1 recently, and that is the best atomiser I ever had the chance to use, really outstanding...still like most tanks nowadays, it's 22mms and doesn't fit my Destroyers, so I have half the fun I could have with it using it on a tube. Do you reckon you could increase the tank hole in the Destroyers up to 22mms to fit most of the aties out there, or the diameter you use right now is the max you can do with this design?
Yeah, it's about the maximum diameter I feel safe with. To allow the 22mm tank to fit the walls of that part of the mod would be less than .8" thick. It would probably be too weak and run the risk of cracking the thin walls with radical weather changes or a good bump against something hard.
The options I see would be to request an older "wench" style top, basically a flat topped non feeder, or I could possible entirely remove the wood from the tank side of the Destroyer and it would just have a wooded riser to protect the tank but leave the tank open. Kind of like a large wooden step with the atty connector at the bottom. It probably wouldnt look very pretty though.
Hmmm. I've always tried to make the mods as thin as possible because I make the body from a solid block. The vast majority of wood for sale is 3/4" (18-20 mm) or less and the thicker the block I need the less options there are for me when I'm shopping and the harder it is to find good stuff. I currently shop for body wood that is at least 1.2" thick to allow for imperfections and deviations to be sanded out.
I don't use tanks and don't really keep up on the new ones out there, but you're saying 22 mms is becoming the standard? If so, I may have to come up with a design change or another version at least for the inset tank model.
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I'm also playing with both the Vamo board and the DNA20 board to see which would be easier to incorporate into new models.
The Vamo board has the advantage of being integrated into one board and the possibility of mounting it with the LCD screen and up/down buttons exposed eliminating the need for me to mount additional buttons on the external part of the mod. Owners would have access to the buttons and screen by removing the side panel.
The DNA20 (which is far more expensive) has the advantage of higher watt output at 20 watts vs the 15 of the Vamo. The drawback is the adjustment switches would have to be mounted off the board and the OLED screen is on a thin, flimsy ribbon cable that has been known to have issues during construction.
I think I would try hard to find a way to mount the DNA20 screen and buttons inside the mod and access them by removing the panel as I just don't like the idea of external buttons. Holding a Cutlass DNA in my hands I don't see any way of holding it where my fingers might not accidentally hit a button while vaping. I also discovered with the Cutlass 5.1 mod the externally mounted LED's and switches are prone to accidental damage.
Either way, I will have to re-design the models yet again.
That was a lot wordier an answer than I intended, but just wanted to let you all know where my mind is on the matter.
Have a great day all! Arrr