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Ruppy

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Wow, that's REALLY lovely Ruppy. I would be overjoyed if mine turned out as nicely!

I can see we have similar tastes! The only differences will be in the details -- the shape and the color of the hardware.

I feel the anticipation building...and Brian hasn't even started!
Theres alot more options now than there was when I got mine :)

Prolly get another one in the next month or so.
 

Landlord

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Its beautiful Ruppy!!!



Mine is Paduak with wenge

Photo_E96E0776-9EEA-0172-5C3D-D291E6EB5130.jpg
 

Capt' Brian

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Hey all, time to take a break .. been test routing an end cap with the new jigs to make sure the new LED+VV+Dual switches fit perfectly. I also played with coating the voltage display to darken it up, but I don't think I will do that anymore as it keeps coming out just a bit splotchy when the led lights up. Maybe I could find a small piece of smoked plastic to cover it with? Hmmmm....

As for the atty discussion, I was running out a bit ago, so I ordered two of the top feed Hybrid 2 ohm atties from COV and two of the Cannon 510 2.5 ohm and 3 ohm from Ikenvape.

The first Hybrid was doa, so I tried the second. It was a very enjoyable vape at around 8.5 watts, but died on me after about 5 days of use. Nice warm vapor and plenty of it, did a good job bringing out the taste of my favorite e-juice. Lifespan too short tho, and with one doa I won't buy anymore.

The cannons taste alot like I would expect from an 801. I try to keep my atties wet when I vape, I like to hear the slightest of gurgle when I vape and the cannon really produces lots of vapor and an excellent taste. As with other 801s that I used to use, there is alot less air flow resistance when compared to a 510 and I really like that. As for lifespan, time will tell and I just started vaping on it yesterday. I have it running at about 9 watts.

Ok, back to work I go :D
 

Capt' Brian

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i have one of those cannons on a mod and i'm not sure i like it that much. it's from the first batch(won't do that again) and it likes to leak. it has good flavor, but i'm not used to that airy vape.... but i tell ya what, the dang thing just won't die:blink: thumbs up for longitivity

I don't know if I am using more juice yet, I don't really keep track but I will try to. I usually go through about 3 ml a day, I'm not a heavy vaper especially when I'm busy in the shop. I expect they would tho, great vaping due to more coil area = more juice usage.

I've had 801s last me for two months, and they finally got so clogged (cleaning/dry burning didn't help anymore) that I tossed them just to get a fresh one going. I'm cheap when it comes to atties and I expect them to last me a couple weeks minimum. The Titans would give me a couple weeks then they start to get flakey at the connector and they get tossed, but I like their performance.
 

Capt' Brian

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Ok, this is the last time I am bumping this up, I am getting started on the preorders and regular batch when i start tomorrow, the preorder people have waited long enough for me to get started, and now that everything is sorted out, time to get to work!

Arrrrr!


Reposting with updated wood & model availability and ordering info.

Select one from each picture and you have made all the necessary choices. The skull stamp indicates it is not available.

The small catch cup is for 510 atomizer sizes, the larger one can accommodate Cannons or whatever.

All VV mods now use a 25W 3Amp adjustable switching regulator.
http://www.dimensionengineering.com/datasheets/DE-SWADJ3.pdf

Base Price; (Add additional cost of wood selected as indicated on the picture)

Buccaneer 3.7V model - $119

Cutlass - selectable 3.7v or VV with Voltage Display - $179

Mark-VI Wench - $169 (VV dripper model, basically a cutlass without a feed system)



The Cutlass models also have two function switches installed.

Switch one - On/Off

Switch two - Down - VV mode
Up - 3.7V, 5V or whatever the battery/batteries are delivering (bypasses the VV circuit board)

Main Body wood


End Cap wood


Adding a few more choices for end cap woods


Catch Cup - Small / Large - Switch - Nickel Plated / Stainless Steel / Gloss Black


Rounded Soft Octagon
 

Lazerrred

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Now that I've placed my order, I figured I had better start making arrangements for my Cutlass!

I gather I need to use 2 AWE IMR 18350 batt's, but I'd be interested to hear if anyone has recommendations for atty's? Canon's? Others? I'm pretty new to vaping, so any help would be appreciated!

(Sorry if this question has been asked already a few times...I don't recall seeing it.)
You can get AW IMR 18350's here Super T Manufacturing, Innovative manufacturer of electronic cigarette products. good pricing and cheap shipping. You can get the longer, less expensive ultrafire 18350's here. Protected 18350 Lithium Ion Battery
Normally, with the standard Cutlass, it is fitted for the longer protected Ultrafires, and if you want to run the high drain, safe chemistry IMR's you can add spacer magnets. Cappy supplies these. I believe pchela led you in the right direction with the Joye Attys to start with except if you will be using your mod as designed, VV, you really don't need any LR 1.5 - 2.0 Attys. Those are for 3.7 devices to simulate 5V vaping with a 3.7 batt. Start out with a standard 3.0 atty @ 4.5 Volts as a baseline, and work up or down to taste from there. The 306's are good as are the IKV cannons, but just starting out, I would suggest sticking to the basics. Oh, if you will ever consider the cannons. Be sure to get the larger catch cup option.
Oh, when you order batts, get at least 4 so you will have fresh batts to throw in the mod to vape with while the others are charging. Don't forget to get a charger either. The TF 001 is a good inexpensive one and MadVapes has them along with others for less $$ or more $$.
 

Capt' Brian

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Now that I've placed my order, I figured I had better start making arrangements for my Cutlass!

I gather I need to use 2 AWE IMR 18350 batt's, but I'd be interested to hear if anyone has recommendations for atty's? Canon's? Others? I'm pretty new to vaping, so any help would be appreciated!

(Sorry if this question has been asked already a few times...I don't recall seeing it.)

To check your battery voltage with the Mark-5.1 Cutlass, remove your atty, switch to 3.7v (direct battery) mode, hit the fire button and whatever voltage pops up divide by 2 and you have your AW IMR battery reading. (works for checking protected batteries too ofc).
 

Lazerrred

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Cappy. Devils advocate here. Now that the Cutlass can do both 3.7 and VV. What's the plan for batt spacing. Assorted thickness's of magnets ? Just a thought.
Here is what I have in batteries for battery lengths from shortest to longest FWIW.

18650's - AW IMR = 65 mm....Readylast= 69mm

18350's stacked - AW IMR = 70 mm......Ultrafire = 75mm

The 3.0 and 3.2 Tenergy RCR123a's are 66mm stacked FWIW.
 

Capt' Brian

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Cappy. Devils advocate here. Now that the Cutlass can do both 3.7 and VV. What's the plan for batt spacing. Assorted thickness's of magnets ? Just a thought.
Here is what I have in batteries for battery lengths from shortest to longest FWIW.

18650's - AW IMR = 65 mm....Readylast= 69mm

18350's stacked - AW IMR = 70 mm......Ultrafire = 75mm

The 3.0 and 3.2 Tenergy RCR123a's are 66mm stacked FWIW.

The only thing I could do was to make the Cutlass battery compartment large enough to take the largest set of batteries available that I know of, and yeah, use magnet spacers for any combinations that are shorter in length to cover all the possibilities.
 

Lazerrred

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and don't let your batteries die out like you do an ego/riva. get a multimeter and learn how to test them.

the imr 18350's are fitting very well in the new versions
Tybin. Are those AW IMR,s ? If they are and they are a good fit, the UF protected like from MV will not fit. I'm not sure about the IMR BDL's lengths.
 

dfc

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To check your battery voltage with the Mark-5.1 Cutlass, remove your atty, switch to 3.7v (direct battery) mode, hit the fire button and whatever voltage pops up divide by 2 and you have your AW IMR battery reading. (works for checking protected batteries too ofc).

Great feature Cappy!

And at what level should I replace the batteries with freshly charged one?
 

Capt' Brian

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Tybin. Are those AW IMR,s ? If they are and they are a good fit, the UF protected like from MV will not fit. I'm not sure about the IMR BDL's lengths.

I use the UF protected 18350's to test with before they go out the door to make sure, I think they are the longest pair of batteries out there right now? As long as they fit I know she's good to go.
 

Lazerrred

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Tybin. Are those AW IMR's? If so, it's not likely the UF will fit. If they are BDL's they might. But then again I've seen BDLs shorter than the AW's.
Pity the poor mod makers with all the different batt sizes. That would be you Cappy.

Oops, kinda double post. Sorry about that.
 
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