Repairable CE2

[Teach]

I get it now, read that too fast haha

The screw posts you mention, you do that wih the CE2 mod? Through the cup holes or something else?

Not on the CE2, but the Giantomizer (just a big CE2), remove the cup and I make a fitting for the base. Sadly, medical problems have kept me out of the shop since Christmas...

The one in the pic I used sterling pins soldered to the base and ran them up through the tank and the delrin fitting to make contact with the m1.6 machine screws. Check the My cheap version of the line thread. Those are really nice and word really well.

 

[Cyrus Vap]

Finally got it to work, and solder free!

I used safety pins as in the 1st revision of the original idea

I made a U shape out of the post contact, and stuck a piece of heat shrink over it (thank you for that idea bluegrass!). Then I put another piece of heat shrink over that to get it super tight.

The base contact I just left a hair longer then the beginning of the base.

two loops tied super right on each coil port, 4 coils, 36 (I think lol) gauge nichrome 80

Slid the CE2 shell over it and pulled on the base contact to make sure it didn't move, ended up flush against the outer edge of the base

Measured at 2.0 ohms. Ripping it on my Echo right now.

Now to get this in a tank

 

[bluegrasslover]

Actually read your post yesterday bluegrass and it inspired me to pick up some heat shrink

But I couldn't find enamel coated wire for the life of me.

What's the enamel coating do anyway?

Got mine from radio Shack. It's used to make coils for speaker cross overs. It may be magnetic as well. I used it because it is a really small guage and there would be very little copper exposed in the tank. I do strip off some of the coating a couple inches to make sure there is good contact. I recently tried Teflon tape instead but the wires are starting toshow through so I'm not sure that is safe.

Glad you got it working.

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk

 

[Cyrus Vap]

I did some reading and it seems "magnetic wire" = enamel coated wire

Copper seems to have greater conductivity/lower resistivity compared to steel or nickel (I hope that's what the safety pins are? lol), hence its use as a 'no resistance' wire.

But since resistance also depends on the cross sectional area, and the safety pins are much wider than that tiny copper wire, it would seem to amount to a kind of 'no resistance wire' as well.

Love wikipiedia for refreshing on my ten year old college physics

 

[Cyrus Vap]

post deleted....wrong thread LOL

 

[Cyrus Vap]

As far was what little we know, what are the safe and non safe wire materials to have floating around in liquid in a CE2/CE2 tank?

unshielded copper: I've read that this is bad news

stainless steel: I take it this is OK, based on use of paper clips/ hypodermic tubing, safety pins

silver: safe

gold: ?

nickel: ?

 

[Teach]

As far was what little we know, what are the safe and non safe wire materials to have floating around in liquid in a CE2/CE2 tank?

unshielded copper: I've read that this is bad news

stainless steel: I take it this is OK, based on use of paper clips/ hypodermic tubing, safety pins

silver: safe

gold: ?

nickel: ?

Gold would be good if not alloyed with another unwanted metal (most 'gold' wire is plated, you may get bleed through). Gold simply isn’t affordable for the application. The same with the electronic wires that say ‘silver’ wire – most are plated copper.

Nickel I've heard yea and nay on... I try to avoid pure form, but then nichrome is part nickel. I believe that nickel may be part of the alloy for sterling and the harder silver alloys.
.

 

[Cyrus Vap]

So silver and stainless steel is the safest way to go you'd say?

 

[Teach]

So silver and stainless steel is the safest way to go you'd say?

Silver seems to be best for condutivity. Stainless can give more support, but still is conductive.

 

[locke2121]

Go to firemountaingems.com This is a place where you can get beading supplies, and they have both silver and gold wire. It is plated onto nickel I believe.

 

[Teach]

Go to firemountaingems.com This is a place where you can get beading supplies, and they have both silver and gold wire. It is plated onto nickel I believe.

Good find locke! They have a good selection and the content is posted. The silver filled is with copper, couldn't find the gold, but it's probably the same - they do have nickel silver, but it is silver color without silver content... a silver colored alloy.

I'll be bookmarking that site...

 

[Cyrus Vap]

Good stuff Locke

I guess the only question is, would the silver coating truly shield the inner copper from the juice. And there's probably no way to know with out a lab lol

 

[BJ43]

Twisted Jewels

Good source for small quantities of silver wire

 

[Teach]

Good stuff Locke

I guess the only question is, would the silver coating truly shield the inner copper from the juice. And there's probably no way to know with out a lab lol

Not enough for me... If you think about soldering it, bending, sliding through small holes... chance of scraping some electroplate off is higher than I want to deal with. I have few enough brain cells already.

 

[TomCatt]

I have been reading up on paperclips , yeah, my usual M.O.; do something then research. Apparently most paperclips seem to be made of galvanized steel. From what I've been able to get from some Google searches, galvanized steel 'is not a food safe product'.

I'm going to pick up some magnet wire (enameled copper wire; called this because it's used to make electromagnets) and just try replacing the original CE2 wires with this.

Wouldn't any copper covered with silver solder be protected from the eLiquid?

Just my

 

[Teach]

I have been reading up on paperclips , yeah, my usual M.O.; do something then research. Apparently most paperclips seem to be made of galvanized steel. From what I've been able to get from some Google searches, galvanized steel 'is not a food safe product'.

I'm going to pick up some magnet wire (enameled copper wire; called this because it's used to make electromagnets) and just try replacing the original CE2 wires with this.

Wouldn't any copper covered with silver solder be protected from the eLiquid?

Just my

The problem with 'silver' wire or 'silver' solder is that they are describing the color not the composition - the 'silver' color may be from nickel, tin, and may even contain lead. It's fine for electrical contacts, but in the proximity of juice I would avoid it. In the wire tinning process, did the manufacturer specify the content of the tinning solution used? By the time it gets to our markets, content specifications are frequently omitted. Just know that you are assuming the risk when you choose to use it and you are responsible for informing anyone you pass it on to.

My rule is: any good conductor for the electrical – if it’s in juice, anywhere in the vaporization chamber, or exposed to the heat of the process – use a safe material.

 

[TomCatt]

By silver solder, I mean lead-free solder; which is the only solder which should be used where eLiquid will come in contact with it.


ETA:
My main concern is with using paper clips as contacts possibly not being a safe alternative.

 

[Teach]

By silver solder, I mean lead-free solder; which is the only solder which should be used where eLiquid will come in contact with it.


ETA:
My main concern is with using paper clips as contacts possibly not being a safe alternative.

I agree, if it isn't labeled 'Stainless Steel" it isn't. I don't use the paperclips and other wire either... actual silver wire and stainless is more expensive, but how much are you going to pay a doctor later on if you expose yourself to the wrong stuff?

Yes, the solder thing is a problem. Leaded solder is also sold as 'silver' solder... "if it don't say 'lead free' it ain't" - just the way I look at it. 'Silver Solder' is actually a jewelers solder used on silver and very good for stainless steel too. That's why I keep some on hand. I believe silver content of 56% and above is needed for the stainless.

It's just like going to the grocery store... ya' gotta' read the cans to know what you're eat'n.

 

[Cyrus Vap]

TomCat, in your research did you come across what it is in galvanized steel that makes it unsafe?

My desire for a 'solder' free process and the above observations from you guys (gals? ) is why I took Teachs advice and got some stainless steel hypodermic tubing as in the OP. 27 gauge may be slim enough to snap, but its probably also slim enough to just tuck into place as I did with the safety pins.

If that doesn't work I'll use an exposed end of CE2 wire to wrap around the end of the steel, cover it in heat shrink, and then put an exposed portion of the wire between the plastic and metal base

Or just order from twisted jewels and try the whole thing with .999 silver

If that doesn't work I'm going to order .999 silver from twisted jewels and

 

[l3oertjie]

Boys (and gals), I am somewhat confused. All the talk about a "safe wire" - where from and why please? If it is only to make S/Steel stick to the centre post and side chamber - the lead free solder will cover all copper or any other "non safe" wiring. Please enlighten me, I'm not sure what all the talk is about?