3a: We know that it wasn't caused by a "fauxbrid" topcap because this setup does not use such a topcap.
It has a screw in hybrid topcap type of plate. Watch this.
3a: We know that it wasn't caused by a "fauxbrid" topcap because this setup does not use such a topcap.
Aww, you had to go and post that while I was still busy typing. Yes, true hybrid. No topcap. Not that kind, not the other kind. None.Apologies if it was the Roughneck atty it is a true hybrid atty.
I feel like we're going in circles. We know the facts that were presented by the OP:
1: We know that a violent battery incident occurred.
2: We know that it was a 20- or 25-amp max continuous drain battery.
3: We know that it was in a mechanical device with a true hybrid atomizer attachment that screws directly onto the battery tube.
4: We know that the atomizer read 0.17 ohms resistance immediately prior to the incident.
5: We know that the incident blew out the switch and left burn marks on the bottom of the device.
6: We know that the incident occurred within moments after the switch was activated.
So there you go. There are at least six facts we were told about what happened. From those six facts we can interpolate a few things:
3a: We know that it wasn't caused by a "fauxbrid" topcap because this setup does not use such a topcap.
4a: We know that it wasn't from building too low because this resistance alone is not low enough to cause a violent battery failure.
So, we know at least six facts, and from those six facts we know that we can eliminate two of the possible causes of such an event. Let's continue:
5a: We know that batteries vent from the positive pole.
5b: We know that if a battery was installed upside-down and vented, then it would vent near the bottom of the device.
6a: We know that if a battery was installed upside-down and had a torn jacket and contacted the inside wall of the device, then a hard short would occur as soon as the switch was activated if not before.
So we know that something happened, and we know a few things that it was not, and we are left with one likely scenario that it could be. Yes this last part requires some extrapolation. But what was it that Holmes said, "once you have eliminated the impossible, then whatever remains, however improbable..."?
If... If Everything the OP posted as 100% Accurate (not Calling Out the OP - just say'n stories tend to get Blurred the More Times they are Told 2nd, 3rd, 4th Hand) and If the Battery was a Genuine Battery in Good Working Order, then yes, I would say the Most Likely reason was a Shorted Battery.
So if we go with 6a of your post. How Likely is that someone would put a Battery with a Damaged Wrapper Upside-Down into a Mech Mod?
Or more precisely, How Likely is that someone who works in a Vape Shop would put a Battery with a Damaged Wrapper Upside-Down into a Mech Mod?
How many vape shops have you been in lately? How many times are you the smartest guy in the shop? Just sayin.
Now THAT is a good question.Yeah... There is that.
Something I wonder about is Why Didn't the Mod Fire in the 1st Place? Prompting the Owner of the Mod to have the Vape Shop Person to look at it.
And if the Ohms were Checked and it was .17 Ohms, does that mean there Wasn't a problem with the RDA?
BTW - How do you check the Ohms on that type of RDA?
Yeah... There is that.
Something I wonder about is Why Didn't the Mod Fire in the 1st Place? Prompting the Owner of the Mod to have the Vape Shop Person to look at it.
And if the Ohms were Checked and it was .17 Ohms, does that mean there Wasn't a problem with the RDA?
BTW - How do you check the Ohms on that type of RDA?
Now THAT is a good question.
Have to use an ohm meter I would think and most have poor resolution at best below 1 ohm. .17 could be test lead resistance. I am sure they were not using Kelvin test leads.
Now THAT is a good question.
...
How? From the bottom of the battery to the inner wall of the mod? That would act just like a torn jacket, which only leads to short circuit if the battery is installed positive-down. I'm not saying it's the only way, but the signs are there, and they're all pointing in the same direction...Could the switch have fallen apart? And shorted the battery?
How? From the bottom of the battery to the inner wall of the mod? That would act just like a torn jacket, which only leads to short circuit if the battery is installed positive-down. I'm not saying it's the only way, but the signs are there, and they're all pointing in the same direction...
This!!!How many vape shops have you been in lately? How many times are you the smartest guy in the shop? Just sayin.
This!!!
And this is coming from someone who worked in a vape shop. 90% of the sales people that I worked with knew next to nothing about batteries. 90% of the sales staff were right out of high school and may have been vaping for only 2 - 3 months when they were hired. Sales staff were hired based on their "looks" (cute, female) more so than for their "knowledge" about vaping.
Most customers knew which batteries that we carried in stock and which ones of those best suited their application. My own store manager almost sold a customer an ICR battery for a subohm setup until I caught it (ICR batteries shouldn't even be in a vape shop IMHO). Most of our sales staff knew to consult with me if someone had a battery question.
From the pic All the heat was at the switch end of the mod.
I do with battery in upside down and either wrap issues and or switch issues.
Notice the spring still looks good?
So the problem was right at the top end of the switch?