Rig Mod Explodes

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zoiDman

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I feel like we're going in circles. We know the facts that were presented by the OP:

1: We know that a violent battery incident occurred.
2: We know that it was a 20- or 25-amp max continuous drain battery.
3: We know that it was in a mechanical device with a true hybrid atomizer attachment that screws directly onto the battery tube.
4: We know that the atomizer read 0.17 ohms resistance immediately prior to the incident.
5: We know that the incident blew out the switch and left burn marks on the bottom of the device.
6: We know that the incident occurred within moments after the switch was activated.

So there you go. There are at least six facts we were told about what happened. From those six facts we can interpolate a few things:

3a: We know that it wasn't caused by a "fauxbrid" topcap because this setup does not use such a topcap.
4a: We know that it wasn't from building too low because this resistance alone is not low enough to cause a violent battery failure.

So, we know at least six facts, and from those six facts we know that we can eliminate two of the possible causes of such an event. Let's continue:

5a: We know that batteries vent from the positive pole.
5b: We know that if a battery was installed upside-down and vented, then it would vent near the bottom of the device.

6a: We know that if a battery was installed upside-down and had a torn jacket and contacted the inside wall of the device, then a hard short would occur as soon as the switch was activated if not before.

So we know that something happened, and we know a few things that it was not, and we are left with one likely scenario that it could be. Yes this last part requires some extrapolation. But what was it that Holmes said, "once you have eliminated the impossible, then whatever remains, however improbable..."?

If... If Everything the OP posted as 100% Accurate (not Calling Out the OP - just say'n stories tend to get Blurred the More Times they are Told 2nd, 3rd, 4th Hand) and If the Battery was a Genuine Battery in Good Working Order, then yes, I would say the Most Likely reason was a Shorted Battery.

So if we go with 6a of your post. How Likely is that someone would put a Battery with a Damaged Wrapper Upside-Down into a Mech Mod?

Or more precisely, How Likely is that someone who works in a Vape Shop would put a Battery with a Damaged Wrapper Upside-Down into a Mech Mod?
 

sawlight

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If... If Everything the OP posted as 100% Accurate (not Calling Out the OP - just say'n stories tend to get Blurred the More Times they are Told 2nd, 3rd, 4th Hand) and If the Battery was a Genuine Battery in Good Working Order, then yes, I would say the Most Likely reason was a Shorted Battery.

So if we go with 6a of your post. How Likely is that someone would put a Battery with a Damaged Wrapper Upside-Down into a Mech Mod?

Or more precisely, How Likely is that someone who works in a Vape Shop would put a Battery with a Damaged Wrapper Upside-Down into a Mech Mod?

How many vape shops have you been in lately? How many times are you the smartest guy in the shop? Just sayin.
 

zoiDman

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How many vape shops have you been in lately? How many times are you the smartest guy in the shop? Just sayin.

Yeah... There is that.

Something I wonder about is Why Didn't the Mod Fire in the 1st Place? Prompting the Owner of the Mod to have the Vape Shop Person to look at it.

And if the Ohms were Checked and it was .17 Ohms, does that mean there Wasn't a problem with the RDA?

BTW - How do you check the Ohms on that type of RDA?
 

Robert Cromwell

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Yeah... There is that.

Something I wonder about is Why Didn't the Mod Fire in the 1st Place? Prompting the Owner of the Mod to have the Vape Shop Person to look at it.

And if the Ohms were Checked and it was .17 Ohms, does that mean there Wasn't a problem with the RDA?

BTW - How do you check the Ohms on that type of RDA?
Now THAT is a good question.

Have to use an ohm meter I would think and most have poor resolution at best below 1 ohm. .17 could be test lead resistance. I am sure they were not using Kelvin test leads.
 

sawlight

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Yeah... There is that.

Something I wonder about is Why Didn't the Mod Fire in the 1st Place? Prompting the Owner of the Mod to have the Vape Shop Person to look at it.

And if the Ohms were Checked and it was .17 Ohms, does that mean there Wasn't a problem with the RDA?

BTW - How do you check the Ohms on that type of RDA?

Now THAT is a good question.

Have to use an ohm meter I would think and most have poor resolution at best below 1 ohm. .17 could be test lead resistance. I am sure they were not using Kelvin test leads.

I have a nice Mac Tools (Made by Fluke) but I can't honestly say I'd trust it below .5 ohms.
I have also seen a video, or post, of a guy using another atomizer on a 510 ohm meter, do the build on the the ohm meter, then move it to the other atty and it's supposed to be all good? Seems a bit sketchy to me?
 

bwh79

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Could the switch have fallen apart? And shorted the battery?
How? From the bottom of the battery to the inner wall of the mod? That would act just like a torn jacket, which only leads to short circuit if the battery is installed positive-down. I'm not saying it's the only way, but the signs are there, and they're all pointing in the same direction...
 

sawlight

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How? From the bottom of the battery to the inner wall of the mod? That would act just like a torn jacket, which only leads to short circuit if the battery is installed positive-down. I'm not saying it's the only way, but the signs are there, and they're all pointing in the same direction...

Unless, just maybe, the switch pin did uncrew, they put the battery in it and set it on the shelf? I don't know, just rattling off ideas, but I think Badnija pretty well has it right.
 

Baditude

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How many vape shops have you been in lately? How many times are you the smartest guy in the shop? Just sayin.
This!!! :thumb:

And this is coming from someone who worked in a vape shop for a year. 90% of the sales people that I worked with knew next to nothing about batteries. 90% of the sales staff were right out of high school and may have been vaping for only 2 - 3 months when they were hired. Sales staff were hired based on their "looks" (cute, attractive females; piercings or tattoo's a plus) more so than for their "knowledge" or "experience" about vaping.

Most customers knew which batteries that we carried in stock and which ones of those best suited their application. My own store manager almost sold a customer an ICR battery for a subohm setup until I caught it (ICR batteries shouldn't even be in a vape shop IMHO). Most of our sales staff knew to consult with me if someone had a battery question.

Disclaimer: I'm not suggesting that all vape shops are like this. I'm sure there are some in which all of the employees are quite educated and knowledgable in knowing what they need to know.
 
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zoiDman

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This!!! :thumb:

And this is coming from someone who worked in a vape shop. 90% of the sales people that I worked with knew next to nothing about batteries. 90% of the sales staff were right out of high school and may have been vaping for only 2 - 3 months when they were hired. Sales staff were hired based on their "looks" (cute, female) more so than for their "knowledge" about vaping.

Most customers knew which batteries that we carried in stock and which ones of those best suited their application. My own store manager almost sold a customer an ICR battery for a subohm setup until I caught it (ICR batteries shouldn't even be in a vape shop IMHO). Most of our sales staff knew to consult with me if someone had a battery question.

So if the Majority of Vape Shop employees are Rubes, what confidence do we have that the .17 Ohm Build that the Mod Owner's build was supposed to have had was Measured correctly?

And What's the Deal with the Rig Mod not working Before it was given to the Vape Shop Employee?
 

zoiDman

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From the pic All the heat was at the switch end of the mod.
I do with battery in upside down and either wrap issues and or switch issues.
Notice the spring still looks good?
So the problem was right at the top end of the switch?

I see Soot and Discolouring at the Switch End. But that is where the Flames came out. Right?

It would be Nice to see a Picture of what the Battery looked like.

On this actual Mod, I wonder which Threads were Stronger? The Threads holding the RBA On? Or the Threads holding the Switch On?

If the Mod had been Working Fine and then the Vape Shop Dude took the Battery Out and then put the Battery back in, I think that would be a Great Case for the Battery being Upside Down.

But the Mod Wasn't Working. So something was Wrong with either the Mod or the Atty.
 

crxess

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Maybe this is a big part of my not understanding carelessness and lack of concern.

I refuse to deal with Vape Shops and have never made a single purchase in one. I take responsibility for knowing every device I purchase and do my own research, study, testing of every piece I own.

I Depend on Me
:blink:
 

skoony

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Assuming that there was a tear in the wrapping and the battery was inserted upside down,
wouldn't the case and the negative terminal be ground? The battery would short from the
tear in the wrap directly to the negative terminal. (assuming negative as ground.)
The switch isolates the ground from the coil with the positive terminal on the other side
of the coil.
With the switched open one way for a dead short to occur is through the wrapping
to the case directly to the positive terminal of the incorrectly inserted battery .
With a closed switch a Dead short can only occur when something by passes the coil
and completes a connection directly to the power terminals. If this occurs immediately
when the switch is closed that means the short is between the + side of the switch and
the negative side of the coil. As with my first scenario a dead short between the + side
of the coil would be evident as soon as the battery is inserted. Assuming the battery is
inserted correctly a tear in the wrap should have no affect if its not near the positive side
of the battery or the negative part of the tank.
In other word any short from the negative side of the switch or positive side of the coil
would be a dead short when inserting a battery.
Lastly with the switch open and a path to ground between the plus side of the switch and
negative side of the coil inserting the battery will cause the coil to fire continuously when inserted
correctly.
Theoretically in a mechanical mod it should not make a difference witch way the battery is
inserted. The switch and the coil do not care. So it gets down to when the short occurred.
If the battery is in perfect condition and the tank and tube are in proper working order
nothing should happen until the switch is closed. All things being equal current will just flow in the opposite direction.
:2c:
Regards
Mike
 

Baditude

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Reversing Batteries in Mods
"Why do people want to insert batteries the wrong way round?
Perhaps because a battery that fails will vent first from the positive end - you can see the tiny gas vents around the positive terminal at the top. All rechargeables have these. Maybe the device being used only has gas vents at the bottom, so that the user assumes that it will be safer if the battery pos terminal is by the tubemod's gas vent.

There are so many faults in this reasoning that it is futile listing them and would take too much space. Just don't do it." ---Rolygate, ECF Forum administrator and battery expert.

Warning: battery reverse polarity in APVs

Reversed battery polarity in mechs
 
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