Rocket Tank (Kayfun Clone)

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vapdivrr

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hey bj, tried a similar build in the kayfun lite a few times. 26g wire around a 20g blunt tip needle. the only difference was my resistance was about 1. also used cotton instead of hemp. my results were great to start but then became very inconsistent after a few hours. tried it again after that and in the end the vape didn't seem that much different then a standard horizontal micro coil. I think overall the way in which one has to wrap this vertical coil ultimately doesn't wick as well as the standard micro coil in this device. one thing I notice is that your wick seems to be a lot less in mass then what I was doing, maybe I could of been using to much? I have done about 30 different types of micros in various devices and in the reo and drippers I like a open micro with cotton bed underneath, but in the kayfun it seems like no matter what build I try, I keep coming back to a standard horizontal wicked micro .
 

BJ43

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hey bj, tried a similar build in the kayfun lite a few times. 26g wire around a 20g blunt tip needle. the only difference was my resistance was about 1. also used cotton instead of hemp. my results were great to start but then became very inconsistent after a few hours. tried it again after that and in the end the vape didn't seem that much different then a standard horizontal micro coil. I think overall the way in which one has to wrap this vertical coil ultimately doesn't wick as well as the standard micro coil in this device. one thing I notice is that your wick seems to be a lot less in mass then what I was doing, maybe I could of been using to much? I have done about 30 different types of micros in various devices and in the reo and drippers I like a open micro with cotton bed underneath, but in the kayfun it seems like no matter what build I try, I keep coming back to a standard horizontal wicked micro .

You don't say what you are using to power that massive 26g coil. IMO 26g is overkill. Heat spread out over too much area. I have 17 micros in Drippers all 28g 1.3 to 1.5 ohms horizontal Dragon with hemp or cotton, I prefer hemp for its longevity and they work great. In Russian, Fogger, Evod, Protank and others I prefer the vertical. Most with 28g and some with 30g. Most of my vaping is between 14 and 20 watts on VV but I do have some diy VV mods that I can go to 12v, 10amps, 120 watts on a 1.2ohm. Tried 26g and 24g at those higher voltages to reduce lag. They work but not practical.

Edit: I have also found that I get more vapor and flavor with a little more diameter on the coils. 1.5mm seems to be right for me. The dragon needs to breath.:)
 
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vapdivrr

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You don't say what you are using to power that massive 26g coil. IMO 26g is overkill. Heat spread out over too much area. I have 17 micros in Drippers all 28g 1.3 to 1.5 ohms horizontal Dragon with hemp or cotton, I prefer hemp for its longevity and they work great. In Russian, Fogger, Evod, Protank and others I prefer the vertical. Most with 28g and some with 30g. Most of my vaping is between 14 and 20 watts on VV but I do have some diy VV mods that I can go to 12v, 10amps, 120 watts on a 1.2ohm. Tried 26g and 24g at those higher voltages to reduce lag. They work but not practical.

Edit: I have also found that I get more vapor and flavor with a little more diameter on the coils. 1.5mm seems to be right for me. The dragon needs to breath.:)

actually on the vertical coil in the kayfun I used a mech with the 26g wire, I did this one at like .8 ohms, also did it with 27g at 1 ohm on a mech as well, the last try was 28g on the provari. in all instances the results just didn't seem that much difference to a standard micro. I did try these at first with a 20g blunt tip but ultimately thought the slightly larger diameter was better which was a 1/16 drill bit. its funny how opinions differ, some say coil surface increases vapor and flavor, while others think opposite. some like larger diameter coils while others like smaller, in the end its all personal preference for sure. while I do like vapor production I prefer flavor a little more, so massive clouds arent a big deal for me, certainly wouldn't feel the need for 10 amp, 120 watt power source but to each there own. anyways from my limited array of devices I have found that comparing a thicker wire to a thinner wire, the thicker wire has a better flavor. so for me personally I much prefer the flavor of 26g wire to the flavor of 28g wire. this preference is possibly from more surface contact to the wick or just the temperature of the wire itself. maybe things will be different when I get my dna -20 mod, this will open up some options that I didn't have before so we will see. you said you tried 26 and 24g wire at higher voltages to reduce lag? is this correct?
 

BJ43

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actually on the vertical coil in the kayfun I used a mech with the 26g wire, I did this one at like .8 ohms, also did it with 27g at 1 ohm on a mech as well, the last try was 28g on the provari. in all instances the results just didn't seem that much difference to a standard micro. I did try these at first with a 20g blunt tip but ultimately thought the slightly larger diameter was better which was a 1/16 drill bit. its funny how opinions differ, some say coil surface increases vapor and flavor, while others think opposite. some like larger diameter coils while others like smaller, in the end its all personal preference for sure. while I do like vapor production I prefer flavor a little more, so massive clouds arent a big deal for me, certainly wouldn't feel the need for 10 amp, 120 watt power source but to each there own. anyways from my limited array of devices I have found that comparing a thicker wire to a thinner wire, the thicker wire has a better flavor. so for me personally I much prefer the flavor of 26g wire to the flavor of 28g wire. this preference is possibly from more surface contact to the wick or just the temperature of the wire itself. maybe things will be different when I get my dna -20 mod, this will open up some options that I didn't have before so we will see. you said you tried 26 and 24g wire at higher voltages to reduce lag? is this correct?[/QUOT

Your whole world will change when you get into VV/VW and you can change flavor with V. I quit mechanicals 4 years ago. Yes more surface area can give more vapor and flavor but also needs more power, wire temp adjusts flavor and you can really only do that with VV/VW, On a mechanical after a few good draws your V goes down and you can't keep it at the sweet spot for flavor. :) The 10 amp mod is not for use, just for testing many hundreds of coil over the years.
 

vapdivrr

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actually on the vertical coil in the kayfun I used a mech with the 26g wire, I did this one at like .8 ohms, also did it with 27g at 1 ohm on a mech as well, the last try was 28g on the provari. in all instances the results just didn't seem that much difference to a standard micro. I did try these at first with a 20g blunt tip but ultimately thought the slightly larger diameter was better which was a 1/16 drill bit. its funny how opinions differ, some say coil surface increases vapor and flavor, while others think opposite. some like larger diameter coils while others like smaller, in the end its all personal preference for sure. while I do like vapor production I prefer flavor a little more, so massive clouds arent a big deal for me, certainly wouldn't feel the need for 10 amp, 120 watt power source but to each there own. anyways from my limited array of devices I have found that comparing a thicker wire to a thinner wire, the thicker wire has a better flavor. so for me personally I much prefer the flavor of 26g wire to the flavor of 28g wire. this preference is possibly from more surface contact to the wick or just the temperature of the wire itself. maybe things will be different when I get my dna -20 mod, this will open up some options that I didn't have before so we will see. you said you tried 26 and 24g wire at higher voltages to reduce lag? is this correct?[/QUOT

Your whole world will change when you get into VV/VW and you can change flavor with V. I quit mechanicals 4 years ago. Yes more surface area can give more vapor and flavor but also needs more power, wire temp adjusts flavor and you can really only do that with VV/VW, On a mechanical after a few good draws your V goes down and you can't keep it at the sweet spot for flavor. :) The 10 amp mod is not for use, just for testing many hundreds of coil over the years.

its funny, at first i loved vv devices but soon needed more wattage to satisfy my newly found addiction, this higher wattage at first was to jack up the voltage on my gennys, but with the wire I was using at the time, that was no option. I then went to thicker wire but at high voltage it required to many wraps, this is why I went to lower resistances and a mech. now given the options I had the latter was much better. moving now to drippers, reo's, and kayfun likes with micro coils I have tried all these with a medium gauge and medium resistances with a vv device for max wattages, when I compare this to a lower resistance coil with the thicker gauge I still prefer the flavor of the LR set-ups, just like I did with the gennys. so yes, I am looking forward to using the futura dna-20 so I can get my desired wattage and also increase voltage at the same time to see how this all works compared to what im doing now, and at the same time have a more consistant temp with the coil. so with your high voltage coils you still prefer 28g and 30g wires? and find they actually produce better flavor compared to a thicker gauge? I know even with high voltage vaping a thicker gauge wire will decrease vaping time of a single battery and be less responsive, but I still would believe that 28g will have a better flavor then lets say 30 or 32g as long as the air flow is increased. whats ya think?
 

BJ43

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I now only use 28, 30g, on most RBA/RDA and ribbon on Ao wicks on gennies. I have always been able to reach my sweet spot for flavor on these wired coils with VV/VW. my coils are all 1.3 to 1.6 ohms and vape 12 to 15 watts sometimes more with the DNA20. Never noticed any flavor difference just because of wire g. But that's me and my flavors are boring, just tobacco, no caramel, no vanilla, or anything sweet.:)
 

vapdivrr

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I now only use 28, 30g, on most RBA/RDA and ribbon on Ao wicks on gennies. I have always been able to reach my sweet spot for flavor on these wired coils with VV/VW. my coils are all 1.3 to 1.6 ohms and vape 12 to 15 watts sometimes more with the DNA20. Never noticed any flavor difference just because of wire g. But that's me and my flavors are boring, just tobacco, no caramel, no vanilla, or anything sweet.:)

im the opposite with juices, love the sweeter ones. take care.
 

BJ43

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I now have 6 hemp fiber setups Rocket (cheap Russian clone), Fogger2 clone, RSST, and 3 RDAs.
In first place is the Rocket with the Fogger a close second. Both of these have vertical nano 28g coils and all the air is sucked thru the hollow coil and the small chimney reduces condensation and cooling, I am convinced this is the best setup I have ever vaped.

The RDAs with 28g nanos horizontal open end sitting in hemp fiber work great but nothing like the above.

The RSST with a hemp wick and a 28g nano open end, slanted with the hemp wrapped around the outside of the coil works as good, even little better than a regular Ao setup.

So I am very happy with the hemp fiber. What is more important was discovering this vertical hollow wick setup. It is all in the engine and this vertical coil is a high power turbine. Looks like the gennies go back in retirement. Will be looking at all my Odys, Pennys , Terminaters to see if they can be modded for vertical coil. Very important that the air enter directly into the bottom of the hollow coil.:)
 

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JD1

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I don't like that it has a screw in trip tip because I don't like metal drip tips at all, plus I like a shorter drip tip. I've been told you can get an adapter but so far I haven't seen one.

I didn't look real close but those look similar. Is one a stainless version of the other?

Edit: I went back and looked again and spotted some differences.
 
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MikeA5

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DW, it's function is to make a air tight seal. I think you may get flooding/leaking without it. I fill from the top while putting my finger over the air hole so it won't flood. Top cap screwed on about 1 turn (still holding finger over air hole) then turn upside down (releasing finger from air hole) and finish tightening down the top cap (the one with the o-ring ). Then I screw on the drip tip. I never tried using the fill hole.
 

JD1

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....... You guys know the little silicone-type o-ring that goes just below the drip tip? I wonder just how essential it is??:blush: I think that I lost it from mine....

If it's just to seal the drip tip, try wrapping some dental floss or thread or something to get it going until you find a replacement.
 

MikeA5

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If it's just to seal the drip tip, try wrapping some dental floss or thread or something to get it going until you find a replacement.

The o-ring is not to seal the drip tip. The o-ring is to seal the interior of the tank using the top cap. The drip tip is then screws onto the top cap. When the drip tip screws on to the top cap it never touches the o-ring because the o-ring is on the under side of the top cap.
 

BJ43

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Just starting to work with my Rocket. You guys know the little silicone-type o-ring that goes just below the drip tip? I wonder just how essential it is??:blush: I think that I lost it from mine....

Anyway, are you guys using the dedicated fill hole to fill these things with liquid? Thanks!

Without it your tank will drain out. It is one of the most essential parts.

Have never used the fill hole. Just unscrew the top.
 
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