It is consumable alcohol. Pure grain... alcohol. Like vodka, whiskey, gin, etc.
Just that it's really strong!
.
Sattec's atty cleaning test thread
- Thread starter sattec
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
It is consumable alcohol. Pure grain... alcohol. Like vodka, whiskey, gin, etc.
Just that it's really strong!
.
I have never tried the mouth wash. The alcohol does work for me real well. If anyone is offended by the bottle of drinking alcohol you can get it at the drug store in a more generic packaging. I don't drink myself but the bottle of everclear standing on my lab looking desk looks harmless.
I for a while I used rubbing alcohol. it does a good job but must be flushed out before using the atty. Rubbing alcohol is really the same as the drinking alcohol but it contains the denatured agent to discourage drinking it.
All you are doing in this cleaning is disolving the juice that has clogged the wick and to some extent the heating coil. Even water would work if you soaked it long enough.
I waiting on someone to come up with a method of cleaning the gunk off of the heating coil. Now that is a worthy cause.
Kevin
We don't have everclear here, at least I've never seen any 75/95% alcohol beverage, except for absynth. We have 96% ethanol/ethyl alcohol which have those denaturated agents. I'm still looking for a mouthwash that has the same active ingredient has the Crest. It sucks not finding an European forum as good as this one. I feel lost when people start shooting brands and such things 
We don't have everclear here, at least I've never seen any 75/95% alcohol beverage, except for absynth. We have 96% ethanol/ethyl alcohol which have those denaturated agents. I'm still looking for a mouthwash that has the same active ingredient has the Crest. It sucks not finding an European forum as good as this one. I feel lost when people start shooting brands and such things
The denatured alcohol is OK to use. It cuts real well with water so clean up is real easy.
Kevin
I did not have any of the Crest, but just got a bottle of Scope Outlast. I just had an atty that was about gone after 2 weeks of heavy vaping with a variety of juice. Not always a clean cart or atty. JC expresso, Vapor Talk Dulcis, generic light coffee, generic Marlboro, etc.
Did the 15 min rinse and agitate. I did not see any flakes. Rinse in vodka, soak in water, overnight dry with a few hours on top of the heater this morning.
Primed with 2 drops, then 2 more, laid it down for 15 min, 2 more drops. Got some burning flavor with some vapor and then-vapor, burnt taste gone, no funny flavors. This seems to work well.
Getting some Crest today. Btw, 510 atty.
Thanks
Did the 15 min rinse and agitate. I did not see any flakes. Rinse in vodka, soak in water, overnight dry with a few hours on top of the heater this morning.
Primed with 2 drops, then 2 more, laid it down for 15 min, 2 more drops. Got some burning flavor with some vapor and then-vapor, burnt taste gone, no funny flavors. This seems to work well.
Getting some Crest today. Btw, 510 atty.
Thanks
Other than occasionally blowing out excess liquid from the atomizers, I've used only one method to clean my atomizers: boil them for one minute. They vape like new afterward. I have two atomizers I got with my first order a month ago. I've boiled each one time. Each is vaping like mad.
Yesterday I did an experiment and took a new atomizer and boiled it to see if it would remove the primer stuff that makes such a horrible flavor. It did. The thing works like an atomizer that's fully broken in.
My method:
[/IMG]
Yesterday I did an experiment and took a new atomizer and boiled it to see if it would remove the primer stuff that makes such a horrible flavor. It did. The thing works like an atomizer that's fully broken in.
My method:
- Get water boiling in small pan or pot.
- Put atomizer in one of those pasta "forks" so it's easy to put in the water and take out again. (See photo.) (Preview isn't showing the photo, but the server is acting weird right now so I'll check later and re-insert the photo if necessary...sorry..)
- Boil it for one minute, moving it around a little to circulate the water.
- Remove it from water, stand it on end to drain, and wait for it to cool.
- When cool enough, blow it out.
- Allow to dry thoroughly. I let it dry overnight.
- Prime with a couple drops of e-liquid.
- Vape normally.
The general consensus on this thread is that the Crest Pro Health is the way to go. I haven't tried this yet, but am heading out after this post to pick some up.
To my point. I have scoured this thread and have not found the simple solution for pre cleaning and quick drying. Canned air!
Before you soak your atty, a quick spray of canned air in the battery hole, the airflow holes and then on the bridge will remove alot of liquid. Then soak in your solution.
Once out of the solution a quick spray of all of the areas listed above, then your hot water rinse. Dry the housing with a paper towel (not the bridge, because you will get paper towel bits stuck in it). The repeat with the canned air. Prime it and it's ready to go.
Canned air applies pressure, forcing out the liquid that air drying may not get. I think that is why many are waiting hours to reuse.
Vape on!
To my point. I have scoured this thread and have not found the simple solution for pre cleaning and quick drying. Canned air!
Before you soak your atty, a quick spray of canned air in the battery hole, the airflow holes and then on the bridge will remove alot of liquid. Then soak in your solution.
Once out of the solution a quick spray of all of the areas listed above, then your hot water rinse. Dry the housing with a paper towel (not the bridge, because you will get paper towel bits stuck in it). The repeat with the canned air. Prime it and it's ready to go.
Canned air applies pressure, forcing out the liquid that air drying may not get. I think that is why many are waiting hours to reuse.
Vape on!
you gonna break the coil with too much air pressure, you better be careful. The best preclean is to blow it out 10 times before you soak it, blow it out using the batt port and your mouth...
I've been using compressed air to alleviate flooding and before and after wash for 4 months. Have never broken a coil.
It's a good point the sattec makes, you have to be careful with canned air. I always give a light squeeze when I spray around the coil. Plus canned air can spray out REALLY cold sometimes and that extreme cold could contract the coil to the point of breakage. SO . . . use with caution.
I like it because you can get the straw right up to the bridge and blast out all the crappy juice. I used exposed bridge atty's, it's easier than say your 901, 801, or 510 recessed bridge styles. Personal preference I guess.
Jason
on a dse 801, your actually trying to clean out the mesh, the side channels not the center hole is the problem area. The center is usually pretty clear because it's so large, those side channels are very small and plug up easy. Try blowing canned air backwards thru the side channels, that shoulld really help get the junk out. Report your findings please....
I wouldn't use the canned air. The least component in canned air is air. It contains so much hydrocarbon propellent that it's almost dangerous to use. Look at all the warning labels on the can. Canned ait is not really canned air. The latest craze for kids is sniffing canned air. They get high off of it. A lot of them have died.
Kevin
Kevin
I have found a way to avoid the LONG rinse and dry process. This seems to work well after having tried it on several attys...
Do the Crest bath as noted in this thread. then, run your sink tap as hot as you can put your fingers in. Don't burn yourself!!!
Rinse the atty (cartridge end up). The water cannot drain as fast as it can go in, so fill it with water, then blow it out with your mouth. Repeat several times. You are basically using force to rinse your atty out.
Then blow into both ends of it (or use compressed air... just be careful not to blow compressed air directly into the atty... There is a lot of force and something inside can probably be blown apart...
Then, what I do to avoid waiting for the thing to dry (I am impatient in the EXTREME!!! This is why I don't do auto body work! LOL!) I breathe in through the atty cartridge end... Hard to describe... Think of it like breathing through a straw... Several LONG breaths in and it seems to have dried rather well...
Now, I prime the atty with glycerin and hook a battery up and start drawing like a madman on it. If I feel the atty getting warm bot no vapor, I add a couple of more drops and repeat. I get a fresh primed atty in less than 20 minutes start to finish and it has worked on every atty I have tried it on.
Hope someone finds this to be helpful!
Do the Crest bath as noted in this thread. then, run your sink tap as hot as you can put your fingers in. Don't burn yourself!!!
Rinse the atty (cartridge end up). The water cannot drain as fast as it can go in, so fill it with water, then blow it out with your mouth. Repeat several times. You are basically using force to rinse your atty out.
Then blow into both ends of it (or use compressed air... just be careful not to blow compressed air directly into the atty... There is a lot of force and something inside can probably be blown apart...
Then, what I do to avoid waiting for the thing to dry (I am impatient in the EXTREME!!! This is why I don't do auto body work! LOL!) I breathe in through the atty cartridge end... Hard to describe... Think of it like breathing through a straw... Several LONG breaths in and it seems to have dried rather well...
Now, I prime the atty with glycerin and hook a battery up and start drawing like a madman on it. If I feel the atty getting warm bot no vapor, I add a couple of more drops and repeat. I get a fresh primed atty in less than 20 minutes start to finish and it has worked on every atty I have tried it on.
Hope someone finds this to be helpful!
I cleaned out some of my 801 attys using your Crest method. Worked like a charm to perk up some sluggish ones. I'm surprised they weren't all that dirty though because I vape a lot. These are my original ones from 9/28/09 and they work like new. 
I'd like to try some pure grain alcohol instead of water for the rinse but haven't a clue where to get it. Lowes? Tractor Supply? Oh duh...
I'd like to try some pure grain alcohol instead of water for the rinse but haven't a clue where to get it. Lowes? Tractor Supply? Oh duh...
the reason some get different result is the juice. It's all just alittle different. There's a few other factors but the juice type and ingredients is a big factor, good luck everybody! I was happy to serve!
I just wanted to report that using the crest wash with the 15 minutes of shaking resulted in paint chips coming off the sides of my 510 attys. I threw two into a small tupperware container and found tons of dings on the sides of them. Didn't shake like a madman either. A light swoosh would be a good description. The only thing different that I did do was that I soaked them over night in the crest.
soaking overnight is not recommended, been there, done that. I revised the soak time to 7 minutes if you blow out the prime before you rinse in pro-h.
Ahhh, gotcha. Just fired up one and the thing works like a champ...sooo it didn't kill it, just did something to the paint job...haha.
This may be a personal preference of mine, but after the crest soak (have done it several times, only once overnight) I like to boil them for about 15 minutes or so. I find it gets the mouthwash smell and the "blueish" tint off the wick. So far, boiling after has worked flawlessly for me.
I think I'm going to start looking into "non-toxic" and "green" cleaners...
This may be a personal preference of mine, but after the crest soak (have done it several times, only once overnight) I like to boil them for about 15 minutes or so. I find it gets the mouthwash smell and the "blueish" tint off the wick. So far, boiling after has worked flawlessly for me.
I think I'm going to start looking into "non-toxic" and "green" cleaners...
- Status
Similar threads
