Scubagen Mods

[Vtwin]

Thanks Zen, I checked the coil and the mest and there does not appear to be any shorts. I am wondering if it is the PG or Vg.
I will have to experiment to see. I was just wondering if other Genesis users had to modify their juice because of coughing.

If there is even the slightest short between the mesh and the body, or the coil and the mesh, these things can give a throat hit that will take your head off... double-check your coil and the make sure the mesh isn't touching the body anyplace, even inside the juice chamber.

 

[UA72Riddle]

If there is even the slightest short between the mesh and the body, or the coil and the mesh, these things can give a throat hit that will take your head off... double-check your coil and the make sure the mesh isn't touching the body anyplace, even inside the juice chamber.

The wick touching the body will not have any effect so long as where you will wrap the coil has been properly oxidized. I have ran mine without the insulators (bic pen tube where the wick goes through) without issue. And on the original genisis hybrid...the wick goes through the SS top cap into the tank. Havent had one issue AT ALL from that.....in 8 months. The coil is the business end....the wick is just that.....a wick to transport the liquid to the coil.

 

[UA72Riddle]

Thanks Zen, I checked the coil and the mest and there does not appear to be any shorts. I am wondering if it is the PG or Vg.
I will have to experiment to see. I was just wondering if other Genesis users had to modify their juice because of coughing.

Your coughing is from lack of airflow across the coil. A very small hole (I use a 1/32, but the genisis originators used 1mm) in the top cap will calm that AND it will produce a lot more thick vapor.

 

[Zen~]

The wick touching the body will not have any effect so long as where you will wrap the coil has been properly oxidized. I have ran mine without the insulators (bic pen tube where the wick goes through) without issue. And on the original genisis hybrid...the wick goes through the SS top cap into the tank. Havent had one issue AT ALL from that.....in 8 months. The coil is the business end....the wick is just that.....a wick to transport the liquid to the coil.

All true... BUT, he's new at this, and the assumption is that he has properly oxidized the mesh... However, if he has failed to get that step correctly executed, AND the mesh is touching the body, it most definitely WILL have the effect he is experiencing. If he HAS done it correctly, then increasing airflow is the most common solution.

 

[UA72Riddle]

In that case...I'll put on the kid gloves.

Ok, another thing to look at.....

Don't confuse your coil shorting out, with there being too much space between the mesh and coil (i.e. from the post to the wick on each end). Try to leave as little bare wire as possible...even if you need to bend the posts just a little. Once the coil has juice residue built up on it, you will see a decrease in this occurrence. (glowing wire)

Tight wraps, posts as close to the wick as possible, and it helps to wrap the coil BEFORE installing the wick...then you can put a few drops on the wick where the coil is at and light it with a bic lighter or any other regular flame. This will help speedup the "seasoning" process of your new coil.

One thing I have not seen mentioned from the original instructions from the creator of the genisis, sir Raidy, is he says that after you make a new wick.....you shouldn't inhale for the first 20-30 puffs. The meaning of this kind of gets lost in translation, but I am pretty sure that is a break in period.

 

[Vtwin]

Thanks UA and Zen. I have double checked the coil and it is glowing on all wraps. The coil wire is very close to the post and the mesh is not touching the center tube. I will add some more airflow and see if that helps.

Steve

 

[UA72Riddle]

Thanks UA and Zen. I have double checked the coil and it is glowing on all wraps. The coil wire is very close to the post and the mesh is not touching the center tube. I will add some more airflow and see if that helps.

Steve

All the time? Or just dry firing? Have you dripped directly on the coil then fired it off?

 

[asdaq]

Riddle, that 20-30 drags is to work off the residues from the oxidization process, so you don't inhale the burnt on crud, the break in period is the first 2-3 mils of vaped juice.

 

[UA72Riddle]

Thanks Asdaq...I had hoped someone would chime in to clarify...

 

[Vtwin]

Riddle, it only glows on dry burn. Once I add juice it does not glow. Wicks good once I practiced making some wicks according to Dan's wick making video. I am going to drill to allow more air and see if that helps with TH.

All the time? Or just dry firing? Have you dripped directly on the coil then fired it off?

 

[Zen~]

Riddle, it only glows on dry burn. Once I add juice it does not glow. Wicks good once I practiced making some wicks according to Dan's wick making video. I am going to drill to allow more air and see if that helps with TH.

That sounds like all that's left... Unless the voltage is too high for the coil... If you don't have a vv PV you may need another wrap on the coil.

 

[bstedh]

On mine I have 5 wraps at 3.7V modulated and it is still almost too hot so voltage could be a big part of it. An air hole with a ce2 center tube to direct the flow made a huge difference for me.

Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk

 

[Led Hendriani]

Just a stab at it:
When I was using certain Capella's flavorings (mostly the chocolates) i would cough like crazy.

I hope you figure it out soon!

 

[urquidezj]

Did you cut your mesh at a 45 degree angle to the grain?

No I did not, is there a post I can refer to?

 

[mj64]

No I did not, is there a post I can refer to?

Yep, we have alexp's awesome wife to thank for this tip:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/194934-scubagen-mods-142.html#post3878623

 

[Scubabatdan]

Ok here is what I did today

Got my 1/2 brass stock in so I was working on eliminating the S wire for the G-Tank-US, also got the brass 0-80 push inserts in, and they work awesome! Well here are some pics.

Only one more part to make, and some threading and it is ready to go
Here is the combustion section pieces

Assembled

Notice the pos screw is inserted (threaded into a nylon 6-32 plastic screw) and then is threaded into the brass positive centerpost. By threading it through the plasic screw I can stop juice from leaking down into the electrical section.

This will solve the S wire issue and make the pos side 100% effective. A thin nylon washer above and below the brass piece will isolate it from the main body.

I think this is good design for electical continuity that can be taken apart for cleaning if needed with just a screw driver.
Dan

Added:
Ok got the T-Tank adapter made...

Dan

 

[urquidezj]

Thanks for the tip on the mesh it works badass I did a test piece to see what would happen, I oxydized with a normal lighter, four times, added some juice, lit it three times. Wrapped five times I think still don't get that. If I dry burn coil lights up, I add juice to it and it will start to throw vape but it kinda pops, and then the corners of the wires that attach to the posts glow. Is that a short? It did cut off twice bit I poked at the wire with a tooth pic and it stopped cutting off the battery. Here are pics and a short vid if it works

http://static.photobucket.com/playe...ucket.com/albums/f337/urquidezj/VIDEO0007.mp4

 

[Krythis]

I don't have a butane lighter available so I'm carbonizing(oxidizing?) the wick with the bernzomatic. Checked continuity and no short between the coil/body and wick. Using the kanthol and 400 mesh supplied in the second co-op. My coil is about 2.6 ohms and using a provari with different volatages. With the tank full and cap off I get a full glowing coil after just a cpl seconds even as low as 4v. Any ideas? Cap on has simular results...is it possible to over carbonize the wick?

Sent from my DROID2 using Tapatalk

 

[jmarkus]

Ok here is what I did today

Got my 1/2 brass stock in so I was working on eliminating the S wire for the G-Tank-US, also got the brass 0-80 push inserts in, and they work awesome! Well here are some pics.
View attachment 56656
Only one more part to make, and some threading and it is ready to go
Here is the combustion section pieces
View attachment 56655
Assembled
View attachment 56653
Notice the pos screw is inserted (threaded into a nylon 6-32 plastic screw) and then is threaded into the brass positive centerpost. By threading it through the plasic screw I can stop juice from leaking down into the electrical section.
View attachment 56654
This will solve the S wire issue and make the pos side 100% effective. A thin nylon washer above and below the brass piece will isolate it from the main body.

I think this is good design for electical continuity that can be taken apart for cleaning if needed with just a screw driver.
Dan

Added:
Ok got the T-Tank adapter made...
View attachment 56663
Dan

truly amazing work dan, you're an absolute genius and we're all so lucky to have you showing this type of ingenuity. blows my mind.

 

[chuckie]

Ok here is what I did today

Got my 1/2 brass stock in so I was working on eliminating the S wire for the G-Tank-US, also got the brass 0-80 push inserts in, and they work awesome! Well here are some pics.
View attachment 56656
Only one more part to make, and some threading and it is ready to go
Here is the combustion section pieces
View attachment 56655
Assembled
View attachment 56653
Notice the pos screw is inserted (threaded into a nylon 6-32 plastic screw) and then is threaded into the brass positive centerpost. By threading it through the plasic screw I can stop juice from leaking down into the electrical section.
View attachment 56654
This will solve the S wire issue and make the pos side 100% effective. A thin nylon washer above and below the brass piece will isolate it from the main body.

I think this is good design for electical continuity that can be taken apart for cleaning if needed with just a screw driver.
Dan

Added:
Ok got the T-Tank adapter made...
View attachment 56663
Dan

That looks like a great solution to the s-wire issue.I appreciate your efforts.Thanks Dan.