Scubagen Mods

[Dieseler]

Robert thats interesting so you sealed the airtube completely, if you do not mind sharing did you seal the air tube at the point right under the coil with some sort of sealant ?
Also what size hole did you drill in the top cap if im reading your post right and i presume the air flow is ok.
Thanks..

 

[Robert T]

I tried sealing the air tube under the coil with silicone but it would always manage to leak somehow. So when I say air tube I'm speaking of the positive and air tube of the ce2 connector. I soldered the positive wire to the inside of that which shuts off the air flow from the connector and therefore to the center tube of the SGv3 body. For the air hole in the top cap I used the smallest drill bit I had, I think a 1/64. Not sure about that though.

Robert

 

[bstedh]

I use a chunk out of the funky little rubber mouth pieces that come with a pack of ce2's. If you use a small piece from the narrowest portion you can run the wire up the center hole and force it down into the center tube sealing it up nicely.

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Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk

 

[Robert T]

Are you talking about the black mouth piece or the white one?

Robert

 

[DDD]

anyone know when the bfg might be open. i dont know if i am skilled enough to do this, but i want one for my reo. !!!!

 

[bstedh]

Are you talking about the black mouth piece or the white one?

Robert

Beveled black one.

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[Big Hitter]

anyone know when the bfg might be open. i dont know if i am skilled enough to do this, but i want one for my reo. !!!!

Second that, I would take a couple for REO use!!

 

[Robert T]

Thanks, I tried the cutting down the white one but couldn't get it round enough. I've got a unit torn down I might try the black one on.

Robert

Beveled black one.

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[bstedh]

This is the type of tip I am talking about.


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[Robert T]

Thanks, I understood, just never occurred to me to try that.

Robert

 

[bstedh]

I was just looking around my work bench for something to use because I didn't want to use sealant. I tried cutting down carto cap originally like you with limited success and then my eyes fell on a couple of those little mouth pieces and the lightbulb went off.

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[Youssefa]

Sorry for the LONG post. I wanted to be thorough.

Hi everyone.... Iam relatively new to these rebuild atty's. I have V3. having trouble.... I was at work and the V3 was doing funny things...like progressivly drawing more volts... Weird I know.. So I pulled the wick inserted pin wrapped new coil. slid it up connectedit and it fired... then I stent about 5 minutes dripping on it makeing sure it was REALLY wet and fireing and blowing....mind you I have a full tank... I was running 5 wraps at 3.7v it responded well. I was UNABLE to temper wick with lighter. the wire started getting red at one post but not the other (distance between the wick and post the same) after 2-3 drags the wire broke.... . I repeated the above process a second time only this time after connecting wire to the posts I pushed the wick toward the post slightly to remove tension. again 2-3 drags later the wire at one post got red hot and snapped. Now I'm ...... .....drained tank blotted wick sucked on it and blotted again to try and get it dry. wrapped it again. dropped voltage to 3.0v reconnected to posts(approx 1/6th inch of wire spanning from post to wick) now I am firing and blowing like crazy trying to dry it out to get a good completely red coil, no luck... only part of the firest wrap on either side would glow... so I figured what the H_ll so I stared to the soak fire soak fire....did this repeatedly....OVER AND OVER... finally after like 15-20 minutes I refilled the tank and started vaping after 3-4 drags (SNAP). Each time I made sure their was NO wire crossing and wick was not touching the center tube. The only thing that I was unable to do at work was burn the coil with a torch or lighter....

 

[UA72Riddle]

Sorry for the LONG post. I wanted to be thorough.

Hi everyone.... Iam relatively new to these rebuild atty's. I have V3. having trouble.... I was at work and the V3 was doing funny things...like progressivly drawing more volts... Weird I know.. So I pulled the wick inserted pin wrapped new coil. slid it up connectedit and it fired... then I stent about 5 minutes dripping on it makeing sure it was REALLY wet and fireing and blowing....mind you I have a full tank... I was running 5 wraps at 3.7v it responded well. I was UNABLE to temper wick with lighter. the wire started getting red at one post but not the other (distance between the wick and post the same) after 2-3 drags the wire broke.... . I repeated the above process a second time only this time after connecting wire to the posts I pushed the wick toward the post slightly to remove tension. again 2-3 drags later the wire at one post got red hot and snapped. Now I'm ...... .....drained tank blotted wick sucked on it and blotted again to try and get it dry. wrapped it again. dropped voltage to 3.0v reconnected to posts(approx 1/6th inch of wire spanning from post to wick) now I am firing and blowing like crazy trying to dry it out to get a good completely red coil, no luck... only part of the firest wrap on either side would glow... so I figured what the H_ll so I stared to the soak fire soak fire....did this repeatedly....OVER AND OVER... finally after like 15-20 minutes I refilled the tank and started vaping after 3-4 drags (SNAP). Each time I made sure their was NO wire crossing and wick was not touching the center tube. The only thing that I was unable to do at work was burn the coil with a torch or lighter....

That is a sign of a short....what type of wick did you make? Straight or U? Was the wick bottomed out (touching the bottom of the tank)? Was the wick touching the body anywhere? Make sure the pos post isn't pushed down too far (was my cause when I was going through this and couldn't figure it out).

All of these are the first steps of finding the short....then when you have the time, unroll the wick (if it's straight), reroll so outside edge is now the inside, then repeat oxidizing process....that will eliminate wick issues. You can oxidize the entire wick without issues. Just to be on the safe side.

 

[Youssefa]

can I test the post using amultimetrer to see if they are shorting out

 

[Youssefa]

I am at work right now and can't check it I don't know how to find out if the posts are too low

 

[bstedh]

Definitely sounds like the coil is shorting to the wick. What works best for me is to heat the wick and quench with a couple of drops of juice instead of dunking in water. I do this 3 or 4 times and have almost no issues. "Almost" Otherwise Dan has some very good videos on Youtube on preparing a wick properly.

 

[Zen~]

Definitely sounds like the coil is shorting to the wick. What works best for me is to heat the wick and quench with a couple of drops of juice instead of dunking in water. I do this 3 or 4 times and have almost no issues. "Almost" Otherwise Dan has some very good videos on Youtube on preparing a wick properly.

I don't quench in water... I use PG and it works like a charm.

 

[pnc81498]

Hey all well picked up a sv3 and after a bit (5 hours) had it working like a champ sitting on desk came back in and tube is shattered who knows.... But I want to order some tube... On cell phone searching sux main page links are dead.. could someone post a good link to save me some search time...


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[Teach]

Hey all well picked up a sv3 and after a bit (5 hours) had it working like a champ sitting on desk came back in and tube is shattered who knows.... But I want to order some tube... On cell phone searching sux main page links are dead.. could someone post a good link to save me some search time...

McMaster-Carr I am using the Polycarbonate 7/8”OD X ¾”ID Part Number 8585K61 @ $2.52 a foot.

Only order in 2ft. lengths - ordering above that gets you a special shipping charge for the long tube packing and handling.

 

[lorderos33]

That is a sign of a short....what type of wick did you make? Straight or U? Was the wick bottomed out (touching the bottom of the tank)? Was the wick touching the body anywhere? Make sure the pos post isn't pushed down too far (was my cause when I was going through this and couldn't figure it out).

All of these are the first steps of finding the short....then when you have the time, unroll the wick (if it's straight), reroll so outside edge is now the inside, then repeat oxidizing process....that will eliminate wick issues. You can oxidize the entire wick without issues. Just to be on the safe side.

This is definitely a short between the mesh and kanthal. If you oxidize the wick well enough, it won't matter if the wick touches the body anywhere, but tat is typically easier said than done and practice makes perfect. Keep at it and before long you will be able to make wicks that work first time every time with no shorts Patience is key, but then one day it will just click.