Sigelei #19 Tips, tricks, and DON'Ts

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NamVet68

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Try polishing it to match your 19 lol, and swap the brass pin and spring for a m4 brass bolt, its all quite really simple :D

My #19 came from the factory with different finishes on every part (but then, so did my smok Natural). Get yourself a heavy duty Scotch-brite pad at your local Grocery store, place it in the palm of your hand & twist the mod back & forth ... the brushed finish will even up perfectly.

Easy-Peasy, Lemon Squeezy...

BTW...also works if you have a shiny AGA-T (or other rba) and want it to match your brushed mechanicals.
 
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waanngg

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to fix the hot spring issue in the top cap i used the extended delrin cup from the magnetic top cap after removing the magnet and used the screw and hot spring from the other flat delrin top cap. this makes it a pretty tight fit with no battery rattle. it took some messing with the hot spring to make it have less tension and for it to fit correctly. but it worked perfectly for me.
 

juicefreak

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some observations with my 19b. I've had the sparking button and hot button. I think the way the spring floats in there (not a good fit) it jams somehow at an angle and maybe takes the button with it to an odd position to make the spark? Yesterday i tried to use the locking ring to lock it and when loosened it must have taken the button up rather than down, because it was autofiring when it should have been locked. Sorry i'm not a modder and don't understand the internal action of the button, so it's hard to explain lol.

that derin screw washer that holds the pin. Can it be left screwed out a hair to raise the action of the brass post? seems it would make a better connection with the battery that way. Personally, sparks and hot buttons scare the crap out of me, so i'm hesitant to do too much away from stock. I do have an O-ring on the brass/magnet post to shorten the throw.

While putting the O-ring on the post, I noticed a little gray tab on one side below the top where the magnet is. Is that supposed to be there? Could that be the sparking? It looks like the tab is an extension of the magnet (same color) where they press fit it in. For those wanting to remove their magnet, it could be helpful to heat up that tab to pop it out? I can take a picture if you guys don't have that tab.
 

mrfixit

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I am currently using my 19 with the nzonic cap with the spring and magnet in button still. In 18500 and 18350 mod I'm sure that's why they installed the spring to keep battery from rattling ect... I also removed the spring from the switch and used the magnet from the original top cap to make magnetic firing switch. I am getting no misfires or hot button issues. Here is a pic of it with my #8's top cap on it and an igo





IMAG0214-1-1.jpg
 

mrfixit

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I am currently using my 19 with the nzonic cap with the spring and magnet in button still. In 18500 and 18350 mod I'm sure that's why they installed the spring to keep battery from rattling ect... I also removed the spring from the switch and used the magnet from the original top cap to make magnetic firing switch. I am getting no misfires or hot button issues. I have set this unit up a number if different ways and I'm sure someone will come up with a solution that works good and everyone can do without having a mechanical engineering degree.
 
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Darksyde

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After re-reading I'm thinking you do still have the magnet. If you look at the button when you press it you will see your magnet stick up past the delrin when the button is fully pressed. Yet when in the mod the base of the battery is snug against the delrin. Therefore the button can't be bottomed out. The stock spring doesn't touch the body of the button housing, just the button and the delrin. What all that means is when you press the button the only contact completing the circuit is between the side of the button and the lock ring. Hence the sparks and hot button. It comes from the intermittent contact.
 

Darksyde

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The way I fixed mine is by replacing the spring with a bigger one from my bolt. I had to cut it way down to only about one and a half turns. It sits on the flare inside the lock ring and makes a good connection. You lose the use of the lock ring but at least it works. It's just a faulty button design imo.
 

NamVet68

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Keep getting hot button and misfired a lot anybody know what causes this it was working fine out of the box now not so much :(

Its caused by poor conductivity between the button & the body of the MOD when you hit the fire button. There are a couple of easy fixes - probably the simplest is to replace the button spring with a hot spring ( a Silver Bullet spring works fine if you wind it tighter). I did that as soon as I started having the same issues...since I replaced the spring, I haven't had a single miss-fire.

If you read some of the earlier posts in this thread, you will find a few other ways to do the same thing using copper wire to make the connection more secure.

Good luck....
 

Darksyde

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Keep getting hot button and misfired a lot anybody know what causes this it was working fine out of the box now not so much :(
dark could you post a picture please I have no tools to attempt it but will try and find a spring that fits thanks

I'll try to post some pics of what I did in a bit. On my phone right now.
 

michliu

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Keep getting hot button and misfired a lot anybody know what causes this it was working fine out of the box now not so much :(
dark could you post a picture please I have no tools to attempt it but will try and find a spring that fits thanks

I used a piece of non-resistance wire, wrapped it around the spring and stuffed it under the lip that the button pushes up against when pressed all the way down. I was finding that I would get misfires or shocks unless I made sure to push the firing button to the side. I don't know the engineering on why it works, maybe because the NR wire helps to conduct current to the tube body to complete the connection.
My #19 misfire fix.jpg
 

juicefreak

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After re-reading I'm thinking you do still have the magnet. If you look at the button when you press it you will see your magnet stick up past the delrin when the button is fully pressed. Yet when in the mod the base of the battery is snug against the delrin. Therefore the button can't be bottomed out. The stock spring doesn't touch the body of the button housing, just the button and the delrin. What all that means is when you press the button the only contact completing the circuit is between the side of the button and the lock ring. Hence the sparks and hot button. It comes from the intermittent contact.


oh wow thank you for that explanation darksyde. now i just have to figure out what it needs to tweak it some more. i got the hot button this morning so i switched back to my p18 with stacked batteries to get higher voltage. if i can tweak away the hot button, i know i will use this all the time.
 

gdeal

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The issue with the 19 switch is that stock spring contact is poor at the button and inside at the base. Could be either that the spring is not sitting well when compressed or that oxidation occurred. Both can create focal points for current which create the spark/hot spot effect.

The fix is simple. Just eliminate the spring from the path of current by using either NR wire (see michliu post) or the copper wire mod posted earlier here (http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...78-sigelei-mechnical-mods-42.html#post9614724)

Or you can buy a better spring...per namvet69
 
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