So I've been reading some random stuff here and there lately and came across mods that have silver plated connections, mostly the high end stuff for better electrical conductivity. Now, is it possible to use something like silver solder and let say..coat a brass pin with it? would it make a difference in its electrical conductivity? like bare brass vs brass with plated silver. I guess what I'm trying to get to is, silver soldering the same as silver plating? I have flowed lead before on body panels to fix small dings and such with a brush and of course using heat and it fills/coats bare metal pretty well.
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Thraizer" data-source="post: 10167822" class="bbCodeBlock bbCodeBlock--expandable bbCodeBlock--quote js-expandWatch">Thraizer said:
I've removed the magnet from the firing pin and filled it with silver solder. I doubt it improves the overall conductivity but the at least the pin won't be causing any voltage loss.
Silver & Copper are far better conductors than Brass.....by a long shot....but it depends on the amount of copper in the brass (brass is an alloy of Copper & Zinc) ....same with Silver Solder...depends on the percentage of Silver in the solder (most Silver solder is usually 95% tin 5% silver).
Here's a quick chart showing relative conductivity of various metals:
Electrical Conductivity of Materials - Blue Sea Systems
So the answer is probably; No...you are probably getting more voltage drop using silver solder than if you had just left the magnets in. You would be better off using a copper or brass "plug" as a replacement for the magnet than using Silver solder. An ideal Plug would be made of Sterling Silver (92%+ pure Silver) and cemented with conductive glue. A good/cheap alternative would be to cut one from a Penny, or just use a loop of heavy-gauge solid copper wire.
I just left my magnets in - I've measured < .2 Ω loss under load on the magnets, so I never bothered messing with them.
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I've done the same with no notable improvement, I done it because I mangled the magnet trying to get the switch apart.
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Yes, that made sense. I completely removed the spring, tapped the delrin, and used a brass 8-32 screw. Just a bit of adjustment and now it is working great with all of my atomizers. Many thanks on pointing me in the right direction.
ok so ive read through about the last 12 pages or so.. seems no one has a good solid fix on the glued button..
ive slotted mine, boiled it in hot water, let it sit for alcohol for 2 days.. and nada.. nothing.. wouldnt even budge..
my magnet is mangled up.. but i dont really care because i am tapping it and putting in a brass screw... but i cannot get the damn thing to come apart.
ive slotted mine, boiled it in hot water, let it sit for alcohol for 2 days.. and nada.. nothing.. wouldnt even budge..
my magnet is mangled up.. but i dont really care because i am tapping it and putting in a brass screw... but i cannot get the damn thing to come apart.
The easiest way IMO is to slot the magnet for a flat screwdriver and get a hold of the button with something that wont scratch the button. I used a pair of pliers with heat shrink over the jaws. I used this on method on a polished 19 that hadn't been soaked or anything and it came apart relatively easy. Get a good grip on the button and turn the magnet/post to limit the chance of scratching the button.
yeah I used the slot method and it came apart easy..I widened the spring which fixed all the sporadic contact issues..i'm getting 3.65ish with a .9 ohm load..which is totally acceptable for a cheap mod..loving the 19 now after the spring widening..only thing is the locking ring is tight to unscrew now but not a big issue..
I put the button in a vice and slotted the magnet, but had to use a screwdriver and a pair of vicegrips to hold the screwdriver so I could keep force on the magnet and turn it at the same time.
I know someone else posted getting .2v drop with the stock magnets and all (namvet?). I am getting the same with brass contacts and the copper wire switch mod- VERY good for a cheap mech! The high-dollar boys who are getting .5v+ drops don't believe it but all I can do is chuckle. $32 shipped LMAO!
.2v drop with a sub ohm coil? that's better than I've ever gotten lol..best was .35v with some of my side pin mods (sig 8 solid post, kts ggts sanded and smok natural sanded)
Someone mentioned using a small circular file to open up air holes in various things, specifically an RSST. Would something like the set in the link below do the job? I can't seem to find a set of only tiny circular files, but that's what I want.
http://www.amazon.com/Needle-Files-...P0JKS/ref=pd_luc_sim_03_05_t_lh?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/Needle-Files-...P0JKS/ref=pd_luc_sim_03_05_t_lh?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Depends on the size of the air hole you are looking for.. the rsst cap is not that thick. I opened up mine quite easily with a screw..not very accurate measurement though! For a precise width you might be better off with a drill-bit.
Zipflint, I use this set that I found at my local Home Depot.
http://m.homedepot.com/p/General-To...Canvas-Storage-Case-6-Piece-707476/100572556/
http://m.homedepot.com/p/General-To...Canvas-Storage-Case-6-Piece-707476/100572556/
Thanks! I'd be better off if I could browse in person but I'm not able to get out of the house
much.
much.
Something like this for the price can't go wrong:
Pro-Quality 20-Piece Diamond Bur Set for Rotary Tool - Glass, Stone, Ceramic - Amazon.com
My only bit of advice about opening the air hole- and maybe this is just my OCD- but I might suggest a tapered bit so that there isn't a funky burr on the outside of the cap. When I drilled my AGI that damned burr made me crazy and I couldn't use it until it was gone. Just didn't feel.... Right.
Well then. Carry on!
Oh I can't live with a burr either. My nimbus clone from fasttech had a burr on the inside of the main air hole. That thing came off first thing.
Hey gang,
I know this has been addressed in this thread before (probably 2X) but I can't find what I'm looking for. At least, I don't think I'm finding it.
Anyway, in the photo below you can see that there's quite a gap between the nimbus clone and the #19. How can I lower the center pin? Just looking at its insides, it looks like if I back out the philips head screw, the whole spring assembly will come apart. And tightening it back together will just raise the post again.
I feel like I'm missing something obvious here.....wouldn't be the first time!
I know this has been addressed in this thread before (probably 2X) but I can't find what I'm looking for. At least, I don't think I'm finding it.
Anyway, in the photo below you can see that there's quite a gap between the nimbus clone and the #19. How can I lower the center pin? Just looking at its insides, it looks like if I back out the philips head screw, the whole spring assembly will come apart. And tightening it back together will just raise the post again.
I feel like I'm missing something obvious here.....wouldn't be the first time!
Hey gang,
I know this has been addressed in this thread before (probably 2X) but I can't find what I'm looking for. At least, I don't think I'm finding it.
Anyway, in the photo below you can see that there's quite a gap between the nimbus clone and the #19. How can I lower the center pin? Just looking at its insides, it looks like if I back out the philips head screw, the whole spring assembly will come apart. And tightening it back together will just raise the post again.
I feel like I'm missing something obvious here.....wouldn't be the first time!
Just unscrew the pos post from inside the mod and then screw the atty all the way down and then tighten the pos post back up till it is snug. All you should have to do is grab the spring and unscrew it. The whole thing should thread out and the spring will stay attached.
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