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I haven't done any voltage drop testing since i got my 19e (brass), finally got to it.
#19 (Brass) - 0.24v
Titan (Aluminum) - 0.33v
#19 (Steel) - 0.47v
Avenger - 0.68v
I can get the voltage drop even lower with the 19s. I had the steel 19 lower than the titan when I had a brass washer in the bottom cap. I guess i'm gonna put it back in.
The 19s have no top spring, a screw tap-and-dyed in place of the magnet, and copper braid weaved in the spring.
I got -15 voltage drop just from the copper braided spring vs. a brass spring.
I think I bought too much brass screws
#19 (Brass) - 0.24v
Titan (Aluminum) - 0.33v
#19 (Steel) - 0.47v
Avenger - 0.68v
I can get the voltage drop even lower with the 19s. I had the steel 19 lower than the titan when I had a brass washer in the bottom cap. I guess i'm gonna put it back in.
The 19s have no top spring, a screw tap-and-dyed in place of the magnet, and copper braid weaved in the spring.
I got -15 voltage drop just from the copper braided spring vs. a brass spring.
I think I bought too much brass screws
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Not really a fan of sub-ohm myself, but I get a .2v drop on a 1.2ohm using an efest 18500 IMR.
Top spring removed and replaced with a brass screw, button magnet replaced with brass and the copper wire in the switch. A little noalox on the threads and that's all she wrote!
Top spring removed and replaced with a brass screw, button magnet replaced with brass and the copper wire in the switch. A little noalox on the threads and that's all she wrote!
Do you know the size/measurements on the screw that replaced the top spring?
Mmmm sadly, no. There were a few brass machine panheads on my bench, I grabbed one and threaded it in. I can say for sure that it wasn't the identical size to the original, but the delrin is soft enough that it just cut new threads. Big help here, eh? LOL
I haven't done any voltage drop testing since i got my 19e (brass), finally got to it.
#19 (Brass) - 0.24v
Titan (Aluminum) - 0.33v
#19 (Steel) - 0.47v
Avenger - 0.68v
I can get the voltage drop even lower with the 19s. I had the steel 19 lower than the titan when I had a brass washer in the bottom cap. I guess i'm gonna put it back in.
The 19s have no top spring, a screw tap-and-dyed in place of the magnet, and copper braid weaved in the spring.
I got -15 voltage drop just from the copper braided spring vs. a brass spring.
I think I bought too much brass screws
I just did this thanks to you..getting .25v drop now..my 19 is my hardest hitting mod currently..have a brass pin from celtic vapes coming so hopefully that does a bit more for drop..lovin this 19 now..
Just get some copper-shielded RG cable (audio cable), strip the outer covering off, pull the center out of it, and you will have a tube of some of the purest woven copper you can get your hands on. A couple of feet will last you a lifetime. Copper-shielded cable is used in many other industries, so just look around a bit, but RG cable is generally available in the larger gauges, which give you a wider piece of woven copper to work with..
When you get the cable - just be sure it's copper shielded....I've found it pretty cheap at an electronics surplus store in Orlando (Skycraft), but any decent sized city has some kind of place that's similar.
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I just used the goot wick de-soldering stuff I had from dx.com..made quite a difference..
Installed the magnets today and it seems to work ok. I don't know if I like it more than the heated spring or not yet. Gotta vape some more and see.
OK. Just got my 19E. Haven't played much. Just made sure it worked for tonight. I know there a are other mods I'll want to do. But First thing I noticed (and I wasn't sure I'd like the bottom switch anyway) is how firm you have to press to activate. Is there something I can do to l lighten the pressure needed on the switch?
You're supposed to push this with your pinkie?????!!!
It bothers me. And my wife wouldn't be able to with her arthritis.
You're supposed to push this with your pinkie?????!!!
It bothers me. And my wife wouldn't be able to with her arthritis.
You can heat the spring with a torch or a gas burner or something till it is glowing. It will be super soft after that but won't fire if you set it down. The magnet mod is good too.
You can heat/change the spring.
I don't use my pinky to fire the mod. I use my pointer, middle, or ring finger (usually the middle).
Finally fixed my switch today. I had gotten some 1/4-28 brass bolts which it turns out don't actually fit the bottom button. The correct threading as mentioned in this thread is M6x0.75 and I realized that my 30pc Harbor Freight tap and die set actually has a die for this.
Was able to rethread a bolt and grind it to just the right length. Added a 1/4" washer to reduce the throw a bit.
I had already pretty much destroyed original button spring, so I repurposed the battery spring. Bent the center bit out and it gets sandwiched between the delrin and locking ring. I wasn't using it anyways since converting to RSST hybrid and no place to attach it anymore.
With the RSST sunk down, the telescope hits the adapter plate before it can snug up on the battery in 18350 mode, so I also had to grind down about half of the threads on the inner telescope tube to close the gap.
I was experimenting with a pure magnetic switch before and it was hardly firing. Its working fantastically with the brass bolt now though. I measured .28V drop on a fresh AW 18350 IMR with 1.6Ohm coil.
Was able to rethread a bolt and grind it to just the right length. Added a 1/4" washer to reduce the throw a bit.
I had already pretty much destroyed original button spring, so I repurposed the battery spring. Bent the center bit out and it gets sandwiched between the delrin and locking ring. I wasn't using it anyways since converting to RSST hybrid and no place to attach it anymore.
With the RSST sunk down, the telescope hits the adapter plate before it can snug up on the battery in 18350 mode, so I also had to grind down about half of the threads on the inner telescope tube to close the gap.
I was experimenting with a pure magnetic switch before and it was hardly firing. Its working fantastically with the brass bolt now though. I measured .28V drop on a fresh AW 18350 IMR with 1.6Ohm coil.
Got my 19E in today with the 18650 kick tube. 
(No kick in place in the pic.)
Here's a mix-n-match photo:
No magnet in the switch, but the button is glued in place just as firmly as the 19B's was.
I want to swap the lock rings between the switches to keep the mix-n-match theme going.
(No kick in place in the pic.) Here's a mix-n-match photo:
No magnet in the switch, but the button is glued in place just as firmly as the 19B's was.
I want to swap the lock rings between the switches to keep the mix-n-match theme going.
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Thanks! I knew it had to be the spring but wasn't sure whether to chop, heat or what. So I just heat and let it sit? Or smash while it cools down? And, let it cool on its own or flash in water?
Just heat it up until its JUST a dull red, let it cool naturally (don't quench in water or it will become brittle), and your done. If its still too stiff, just do it again until it feels right, but if you heat it too much, it will ruin the spring.
Don't forget to open up the bottom of the spring while you are at it so it make better contact with the body of the MOD (or look through this thread and do one of the copper wire modifications) and you will be good to go..
Have fun
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