After the liquid nitrogen comment I got to thinking (a dangerous prospect around here). Everyone is using heat to break the switch and magnets loose. Has anyone tried using cold? Mine is apart so there's no reason for me to experiment but perhaps something like leftover butane from those old days when it was a necessity to have around. Perhaps freezing part of the offending critter might help.
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My 19 just got delivered today. Mine was pretty simple to remove. I used a dremel with a cutoff wheel to cut a groove in it, nylon channel locks to hold the button and a screwdriver to pop it loose. Guess I got lucky. I then took the post with magnet still installed, turned it upside down, and put it in a vise so it only caught the magnet. Crank down on the vise and pop goes the magnet.
Yeah that's just a China GG clone with a flat top. I got it from vaportekusa or hoosiervapes.
I'm not sure which.
It's the older version with no laser etched logo.
And yeah, the air hole on my RSST probably DOES need to be bigger. I don't have the tools required to do that
cleanly though. Seems like I saw a site that sold the top caps only with bigger/more air holes.....?
I'm not sure which.
It's the older version with no laser etched logo.
And yeah, the air hole on my RSST probably DOES need to be bigger. I don't have the tools required to do that
cleanly though. Seems like I saw a site that sold the top caps only with bigger/more air holes.....?
you have a tiny airhole
on ur rsst
nice pics man. wish i had a halfway decent camera.
I'm thinking my iphone takes better pics than my camera does
I know this is a sigelei $19 tread but there's a new Nzonic clone out by Smok for $40. It has a true magnetic switch. According to Todd's review the magnetic switch works just as good as the real Nzonic but the build quality isn't as good as the sigelei. Just though I'd mention it.
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The air-holes are easy to open up by hand. If you have a Harbor Freight or a Hobby shop in the area (especially one that has a lot of model trains)... you can pick up a set of small files that work perfectly for the job, and not that expensive, even the diamond-coated ones.
The one I use is a small tapered "rat tail" diamond round file that makes quick work of opening the air hole up - just spin it around in the hole for a few minutes until it's the diameter you want - Easy Peasy...
And if you don't have a Harbor Freight, you should consider moving closer to one. I love that place.
Congrats Bap
Now I'm waiting to see how you tackle the buttons...mine is in the freezer, and I'm not too convinced it will work.
How did the freezer work?
Since gdeal didn't have any luck with Hoppe's #9 I going to try a couple different heavy duty bore cleaners. I'm going to start with Shooters choice and then maybe try some Barnes, the Barnes stuff smells like it might eat through just about anything.
I think slotting the magnet for a screw driver will be necessary and then some kind of non marring pliers to grab around the outside of the button. Heat shrink or tape over normal pliars might work.
Sounds like you have a lot of the same stuff I do
I have a set of non-mar barrel pads for my vice (pops on with magnets) with channels & various size holes in it that work great for holding round objects firmly without scarring them up. I use it all the time for getting recalcitrant MODs apart (like the tops of VAMMOS, etc).
If you have one, you might be able to clamp the extended button into that to hold it while you crank away on the other end.....
Jeesh namvet!!! As if this thread isn't hard enough for non-modders, new to mechs. I have my first, a 19e, on the way so I'm studying.
To save others time.
re·cal·ci·trant
/riˈkalsətrənt/Adjective
Having an obstinately uncooperative attitude toward authority
To save others time.
re·cal·ci·trant
/riˈkalsətrənt/Adjective
Having an obstinately uncooperative attitude toward authority
Hey Bap,
Some folks posted they had success with Hoppe's #9.
Back a couple of pages there was a post from someone who had success with the Hoppe's #9 but did a bunch of things and they said they were gonna try just Hoppe's alone on their friends switch and report back.
I think that Sigelie just didnt have a tight spec (or any spec for that matter) on how much or type of glue they used on the button. So this seems like one of these YMMV solution/issues.
Some folks posted they had success with Hoppe's #9.
Back a couple of pages there was a post from someone who had success with the Hoppe's #9 but did a bunch of things and they said they were gonna try just Hoppe's alone on their friends switch and report back.
I think that Sigelie just didnt have a tight spec (or any spec for that matter) on how much or type of glue they used on the button. So this seems like one of these YMMV solution/issues.
Jeesh namvet!!! As if this thread isn't hard enough for non-modders, new to mechs. I have my first, a 19e, on the way so I'm studying.
To save others time.
re·cal·ci·trant
/riˈkalsətrənt/Adjective
Having an obstinately uncooperative attitude toward authority
Not to be loquacious, but.....
obstinately (ˈɒbstɪnətlɪ)
Definitions
adverb
in a way that indicates stubbornness ⇒ "I stayed obstinately in my room, sitting by the telephone." ⇒ "Smith obstinately refused to carry out the order." ⇒ "The door obstinately stayed closed when he tried to push it open."
in a manner that is difficult to alleviate; persistently ⇒ "The swelling obstinately refused to subside." ⇒ "Unemployment remains obstinately high."
Jeesh namvet!!! As if this thread isn't hard enough for non-modders, new to mechs. I have my first, a 19e, on the way so I'm studying.
To save others time.
re·cal·ci·trant
/riˈkalsətrənt/Adjective
Having an obstinately uncooperative attitude toward authority
Sorry... I'll use more appropriated words in the future:
"I use it all the time for getting *#$!*@#*#$%* MODs apart (like the tops of VAMMOS, etc)."
...there...fixed it
Awe c'mon gdeal! You're hurting my brain.
Namvet... Now THAT I don't have to look up. PERFECT!!!
I should have a 19E and an ehpro ea in my grubby hands this weekend. Then I'll be bugging you all with questions about all that I've read hear and forgotten. But, it sound like I may not have to do much, if anything, with the 19E.
Namvet... Now THAT I don't have to look up. PERFECT!!!
I should have a 19E and an ehpro ea in my grubby hands this weekend. Then I'll be bugging you all with questions about all that I've read hear and forgotten. But, it sound like I may not have to do much, if anything, with the 19E.
Alright, trying to just get this switch apart. Went to get one of my two dremels at work yesterday, both broken. Took the giant metal cutoff wheel and slotted it but on the way out I went Muhammad Ali on it and screwed it up. One side nice slot, one side borked. So, the slot is out for me. Let her sit in acetone over night, put on some grippy gloves, turned, and now my delrin spins like the locking button. Unscrews until it gets to the magnet (im guessing?) Then stops. I put it back in acetone unscrewed but any ideas to get this the last bit of the way without screwing the delrin?
I also boiled it then alternated cold/hot to get it loose before the acetone so have no fears about either one people
Sent from my Note 2 on Tapatalk 4
I also boiled it then alternated cold/hot to get it loose before the acetone so have no fears about either one people
Sent from my Note 2 on Tapatalk 4
Well, I had it in the freezer for 3 days (procrastination, ya know?
) but it didn't budge. I haven't bought Hoppe's yet, but I think that's the only thing I haven't tried. I think mine is welded instead of glued.I am envious of the nylon jaw pliers...I'm working with channel locks wrapped with tape. The sharp points of the jaws break through the tape periodically, requiring more wraps of tape.
EDIT: I'm also trying to keep the magnet, at least for now. I've never used a tap/dye...
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I swear that when I got mine out, it looked like it had been cross threaded in, as if the brass firing pin had a different thread from the button. I wound up mangling both the firing pin and the delrin insulator.
Does anybody know what the thread size of the switch button is? I think they glued that pin because Sigelei didn't cut the right size threads on the firing pin.
I have seen in this thread both M6 x .7 and 1/4-28. With the measurements I got, I would think it's closer to the 6mm odd ball thread. If you're rebuilding it like I did, I'd recommend going with 1/4-28.
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