Sigelei #19 Tips, tricks, and DON'Ts

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corpus

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Sep 12, 2012
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So if I bought JUST the brass bottom button (it says it has the upgraded solid brass firing pin)
that would solve the intermittent contact problems I'm having?
Sigelei 19 brass bottom button

FWIW, just fliping the top and bottom rings (so that the vent holes are on the bottom) weirdly has helped
a LOT with the occasional non-fire I was getting. So I might not "need" to do anything at all.
Slapped an X10 BCC tank on mine a few minutes ago and it's workin' like a champ.

I have been using the 19e from celtic vapes for a week now.. only changes i have made was to shorten the throw with an o ring on the button pin and flaming the spring of the button to make it softer. So far it works flawlessly!

Huge thumbs up to Gary at celtic vapes for getting everything together!
 

Kahuna

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Check out my diagrams. You don't need to replace the spring, just make your spring wider so when it compresses it touches the body and makes a solid contact.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...lei-19-tips-tricks-donts-70.html#post10086758

Quick question. Will the gold spring from a vamo or #20 in thr button housing upside down work to stop the spark throwing?

It makes perfect contact all the way around and if I cut the nubbin off itll wrap nicely on the button.

I have copper wire, but im trying to avoid that

Sent from my Note 2 on Tapatalk 4
 

div

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Thank you DkGanz...this fix did it for me! I am not for modding, don't know how really. Didn't want my first mechanical be a bust and was overwhelmed reading all these pages while it sat unused. I got this due to phenom price and I didn't know all the issues with it when I pre-ordered it way back. Hot button and zaps are gone. Really, thank you so much!
QUOTE=DkGanz;10074587]Here's a pic of the o-ring in place. It's just the o-ring from an old drip tip I had laying around.
View attachment 230167
And next to it is the button spring that I spread out to touch the side walls. It goes in wide part towards the body, skinny part towards the button.
Also, get some Noalox! It's great stuff! It's at any Home Depot in the electrical section next to the wire pulling lube. For the $5 it's costs you, you'll get a lifetime supply.[/QUOTE]
 

ubergeek922

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Posted this in the main forum but got no love, hopefully someone in this thread can help... It seems this thread covers everything #19, so I hope this isn't hijacking.
I recently got a sigelei 19, done the button fix and I'm really liking it. Last night I put on an iclear30 and nothing happened. Checked the battery and it was good, pulled the iclear and it read 1.5. Put them together and nothing. I noticed if I back it off 1/4 turn, it'll fire. Pulled the head with the iclear tightened and it reads a dead short. 2 questions ; first, has anyone experienced and fixed this? Second, I currently have protected icr batts in it (aw imrs are ordered), shouldn't this have tripped the protection and required being put on charger to reset it, or does the protection reset itself when the fault is corrected?
 

minimalsaint

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Maybe the positive screw inside the 510 connector is pushing too hard on the positive post of your atty? I don't know the iclear at all but I do have a Phoenix that tweaks out when I over tighten it, because the positive post gets too much pressure and it makes a funky short. This could also explain why it starts to work when you back off the atty.
The best advice I can give is to remove the spring from the positive connector on the cap, grab the positive pin with a pair of pliers and back the screw off a few threads. Put the atty on and tighten the screw back up until you feel resistance and you should be golden.
Eesh hope that makes sense.....
 

Lhartman89

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I have been using the 19e from celtic vapes for a week now.. only changes i have made was to shorten the throw with an o ring on the button pin and flaming the spring of the button to make it softer. So far it works flawlessly!

Huge thumbs up to Gary at celtic vapes for getting everything together!

I did the same thing. I used a o-ring from a broke drip tip and heated the spring till it was glowing with my torch. So much easier to push the button and little throw. It also can be set down and will not fire. I think I am going to order the magnets though just because. But I think everyone should make these mods as well as remove the magnet then drill and tap for a brass screw. Also used the wire mod and replaced the spring and insulator in the top cap with one from a #8 or #13 with just the regular chrome plated brass screw. My #19 is my favorite mod right now. It might get replaced though when I get my RH Hybrid Elite or my Kamry K300 or my Chinky-you mod (aka Chi-You clone) lol. I also want to get the Smoktech Magneto mod as it is basically the #19 the way it should have been made with a real magnetic switch.
 

Lhartman89

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Posted this in the main forum but got no love, hopefully someone in this thread can help... It seems this thread covers everything #19, so I hope this isn't hijacking.
I recently got a sigelei 19, done the button fix and I'm really liking it. Last night I put on an iclear30 and nothing happened. Checked the battery and it was good, pulled the iclear and it read 1.5. Put them together and nothing. I noticed if I back it off 1/4 turn, it'll fire. Pulled the head with the iclear tightened and it reads a dead short. 2 questions ; first, has anyone experienced and fixed this? Second, I currently have protected icr batts in it (aw imrs are ordered), shouldn't this have tripped the protection and required being put on charger to reset it, or does the protection reset itself when the fault is corrected?

I suggest not tightening it so much or unscrew the pos post in the mod then screw on the iClean, then screw the pin back up till it is snug. Also, do not rely on the built-in protection in the battery. I suggest getting a Shot Stop fuse or something like it. Hope this helps.
 

Lhartman89

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Thanks, I was worried about using a dremel cutoff wheel but I decided to man up and just go for it. Took a while but turned out ok. I also took to cutting up my rsst so the bottom bit sinks in to the tube.

With the lip of the bottom rsst piece ground off and the diameter shrunk down to fit in the tube, I screwed it onto the disk made from the nzonic cap and ground the 510 threads flush(took the plastic bit out before doing this).
xgHNTzO.jpg


Also decided to put some electrical tape on the base just as a precaution.
QKuKu4m.jpg


This is my first mod and my goal was to keep the length as short as possible, my last pv (1100mAh usb passthrough ego style) was annoyingly long and I don't like how the press fit ego tops pop loose all the time.
oBqPsrl.jpg

Well, its definitely shorter in 350 config.

I'm still waiting for batteries to ship so I haven't even tried the rsst or sigelei yet and i've already hacked them to bits. :laugh:

I'm hoping I'll still be able to get this thing to fire when the batteries do come in... I did a few dumb things when the sigelei first came in and I hadn't read some of the better ideas here. I didn't like the long throw of the switch so my first idea to remedy was to grind the center "plateau" on the button(where the brass post attaches) to be flush with the rest of the button. I think this by itself wouldn't have been a huge deal, but then I went and remove/destroyed the magnet, so the brass cup doesn't even reach above the delrin anymore.

Oh, and another "don't" I did to it: in attempt to make the spring press easier, I cut away about 1 1/2 coils from it. I later realized this has the opposite effect of making it stiffer. :oops: Not sure at this point if I want to try a fully magnetic switch or get a new spring or what.

Sorry, I just noticed this. Nice job man! Looks clean and should work great. One problem I am having with my particular RSST and the hybrid adapter I made is that I get some juice leaking down the center post on the battery. I just wipe it off when I change the battery. I also put teflon tape on the threads of the center tube in the RSST that holds the top plate to the bottom plate. Still get leaks but not much.

Also, I don't know if this will make it worse, but you should have torched the spring. It makes my throw super soft and I can still set the mod down without it firing. I am going to try the magnets. I just have to order them tomorrow and hopefully they will be here by the end of the week or whatever. I'm not really in a hurry.
 
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I know this is a Sigelei $19 tread but there's a new Nzonic clone out by Smok for $40. It has a true magnetic switch. According to Todd's review the magnetic switch works just as good as the real Nzonic but the build quality isn't as good as the Sigelei. Just though I'd mention it.
magneto-ad.png

So, at first glance, this guy looks like a nice alternative but, up close, uuuuuuuugly. I don't want "SMOK" or anything else written across the side of my device.
 

clintSouthwood

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Apr 22, 2013
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Austin
Sorry, I just noticed this. Nice job man! Looks clean and should work great. One problem I am having with my particular RSST and the hybrid adapter I made is that I get some juice leaking down the center post on the battery. I just wipe it off when I change the battery. I also put teflon tape on the threads of the center tube in the RSST that holds the top plate to the bottom plate. Still get leaks but not much.

Also, I don't know if this will make it worse, but you should have torched the spring. It makes my throw super soft and I can still set the mod down without it firing. I am going to try the magnets. I just have to order them tomorrow and hopefully they will be here by the end of the week or whatever. I'm not really in a hurry.

I had the same issue with one of my RSSTs leaking but swapping the top insulator fixed it. Before I swapped the insulator I also tried teflon tape around the positive pin which helped but didn't stop it. The spare insulator is quite a bit tighter around the positive post.

I must agree, modifying the bottom base is a great idea peepsalot! If the tube were beveled just a tad this could make the 23mm to 22mm ODs look almost perfect.

For those that want an extra base, sunnyvaping has them. I ordered a couple spares from them and another RSST. The top cap on the new unit was really chewed up but the owner said he will send me a replacement.
 
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NamVet68

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......One problem I am having with my particular RSST and the hybrid adapter I made is that I get some juice leaking down the center post on the battery. I just wipe it off when I change the battery. I also put teflon tape on the threads of the center tube in the RSST that holds the top plate to the bottom plate. Still get leaks but not much.
....

If your RSST still leaks after using the Teflon tape, get a pack of AGA-T positive post insulators - problem fixed. A 10-pack is around $2. They work far better than the SMOK insulators and are a perfect fit.

If you can't find them elsewhere, Kidney Puncher has them here:
AGA Series Positive Post Insulators - 10 pack - Kidney Puncher

Good luck...
 
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