I'm not positive if they have glue or not, but maybe Fat Daddy Vapes would answer that question by email.
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I've got 2 replacement switches from Fat Daddy. One unscrewed easy as can be. The other is so tight, I can't get it to budge. This is what 'he' told me about the switches when I msg'ed him about the one I can't get apart. "Hey Mike. They are not supposed to be disassembled but I did order them all with no glues. I figured that I would have buyers like yourself who would want lighter springs/magnets. What I use is what you would call a florist's needle pliers. Their tips are very tiny. Then the button, I warp it in rubber band or I use and rubber lined vise clamp. You can also try Liquid Wrench and just wipe it down later."
Thanks for this response
FWIW, I Googled "florist tools" and found this for pliers: http://www.milwaukeeflowermarket.com/florist-supplies.htm
If you have a large craft store in your area (such as Hobby Lobby), go to the jewelery making section -they have tons of different pliers/cutters/clamps/hemostats/etc that are perfect for butchering mods & Attys... I'm amazed at how many different types of pliers there are....
Thanks for this response
FWIW, I Googled "florist tools" and found this for pliers: http://www.milwaukeeflowermarket.com/florist-supplies.htm
Thank 'you' for the responses. With the no-magnet post, the 'button' that sticks up is really soft and not much to grap. At least with the magnet I didn't care if I mucked it up with needle nose pliers or even grinding a slot in it. I'm gonna try a couple things and if it doesn't work out, I'm thinking to drill 2 small holes 180 degrees apart. Then put the tips of needle nose pliers in the holes and using them like a spanner wrench.
Just received my brass bottom button assembly from Gary at Celtic Vapes. It took just over a week to arrive in Texas from the time it was shipped from the UK. This bottom button has a brass pin (no magnet) and no glue.
1. The spring is much stiffer than my original bottom button. I'll definitely have to torch it a little to lighten the throw.
2. It was disgustingly easy to unscrew the button assembly. Forefinger holding the brass pin, unscrewed the bottom button with my thumb.
3. I though my 19e hit hard before. This brass pin hits HARD. A very noticable difference.
A big thanks to Gary at Celtic Vapes!
1. The spring is much stiffer than my original bottom button. I'll definitely have to torch it a little to lighten the throw.
2. It was disgustingly easy to unscrew the button assembly. Forefinger holding the brass pin, unscrewed the bottom button with my thumb.
3. I though my 19e hit hard before. This brass pin hits HARD. A very noticable difference.
A big thanks to Gary at Celtic Vapes!
Thank 'you' for the responses. With the no-magnet post, the 'button' that sticks up is really soft and not much to grap. At least with the magnet I didn't care if I mucked it up with needle nose pliers or even grinding a slot in it. I'm gonna try a couple things and if it doesn't work out, I'm thinking to drill 2 small holes 180 degrees apart. Then put the tips of needle nose pliers in the holes and using them like a spanner wrench.
This is exactly what I would do. I actually notched my magnet base like that and use pliers to take it apart as the screw I tapped and screwed in can come out and leave the post still screwed into the button lol.
This is very reassuring to know. I'm definitely ordering new buttons and top caps from them.
I just need to find someone (hell maybe the guy who runs CelticVapes....Gary?) who does the exact same
thing with the regular stainless steel version.
Because I want to do the two-tone boogie. I don't want it to sound like I'm bashing the mod. Mine is (as of this moment)
entirely stock and everything WORKS. I just want to shorten the throw (hence a new brass button from Celtic Vapes) and be able
to lower the 510 connector (hence a new brass Nzonic head from the same place) to get things to fit flush.
I'm a klutz and a doofus with no real tools to speak of. You guys who are doing all your own work, BIG UPS. I know it's pretty simple stuff to you guys, but I find it very impressive.
And once again, thanks for all the help, gang!
I just need to find someone (hell maybe the guy who runs CelticVapes....Gary?) who does the exact same
thing with the regular stainless steel version.
Because I want to do the two-tone boogie. I don't want it to sound like I'm bashing the mod. Mine is (as of this moment)
entirely stock and everything WORKS. I just want to shorten the throw (hence a new brass button from Celtic Vapes) and be able
to lower the 510 connector (hence a new brass Nzonic head from the same place) to get things to fit flush.
I'm a klutz and a doofus with no real tools to speak of. You guys who are doing all your own work, BIG UPS. I know it's pretty simple stuff to you guys, but I find it very impressive.
And once again, thanks for all the help, gang!
If anyone of you people who have the brass pin from celtic vapes, can you do some voltage-drop testing and comparison with the original brass pin (magnet-holder thingy)?
I am interested, especially if your original #19's brass pin (magnet-holder thingy) has been tapped and dyed for a brass flat-head screw.
I am interested, especially if your original #19's brass pin (magnet-holder thingy) has been tapped and dyed for a brass flat-head screw.
15 minute soak and it came out looking pristine. Now someone has to try it on a glued switch to see if it softens the glue.
Okay, here I go... I'm throwing my #19E switch in a cup of goof-off right now. Wish me luck!
LUCK!!!! I hope you don't end up with Play-Doh!
well, i soaked the whole switch in a cup of goof-off for an hour, then boiled it in water for about 10mins. The goof-off and the boiling didn't effect the plastic or the metal at all.
I did notice it removed some glue since there was a slimy residue in the cup after soaking. But.... i still cant get the damn switch open.
The #19E hits like a champ, way better than my #19 does (which has had the switch open and brass wire added). So at this point all i really want to get it open for is to switch the rings out like Slovkov did to his, and make the spring a little softer.
I know I could get it open with some heavy pliers.. I think you guys call them channel locks (I don't own any), but at that point I'm gonna scratch, dent & mangle the switch up which I just won't be able to live with (I have turrets and that kinda thing drives me crazy and is all I would notice). My hands hurt super bad from trying to get it open so I'm taking a break and will have to try again another day.
But, we have learned that goof-off is more than safe on the metal, the plastic, and does remove some of the glue. They just must keep putting more and more damn glue in these things each time they build them. My normal 19 was hard, but by now I had it opened. With my 19 I did a combo of iso alcohol and boiling and then throwing it on the kitchen floor switch side down a bunch of times (floor as hard plastic tile so it won't dent/scratch the switch), then jamming a screw driver inbetween the plastic and brass, then twisting the switch with my hand which had a rubber glove on. I did the same thing this time, but used the goof-off instead of iso. And the goof-off visibly removed more glue than the iso did.
Killin me sigelei! Killin me here... the glue makes no sense to even be there. I'm almost thinking of soaking the switch in goof-off for 24 hours and see if that does anything (other then melt the plastic... but it was unaffected after a hour, maybe 23 more won't hurt it, lol.)
Gummy, do you have a dremel and cut off wheel? If so, try cutting grooves like this in the base. It is ok to cut through the plastic also. This way you can take a pair of needle nose pliers like in the pic and unscrew it while holding the button with a regular pair of pliers.
Gummy, do you have a dremel and cut off wheel? If so, try cutting grooves like this in the base. It is ok to cut through the plastic also. This way you can take a pair of needle nose pliers like in the pic and unscrew it while holding the button with a regular pair of pliers.
Intresting idea, I had a cheap dremel but it broke. I gotta get a new one soon and give that a shot. I'm more afraid of putting a hard grip with pliers on the switch more than anything.... I don't wanna put dents and nics in it.
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I wouldn't worry about it too much. You don't really see it that much or at least I don't pay that close attention to it lol.
Well today I got fed up with that spring have the 19e no miss fires no glue all brass and brass pins but still that spring well I took out the spring on the 17$ sentanel clone from fasttech put it in the 19 and bam hair trigger happy happy happy
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Man I just had a Thot I'm down a mod now dang o well my 19 hits hard and and no miss fires so o well with a hair trigger hell yes hope this helps any body with a 19 and a crap 17$ sentenal clone well not crap it works and hits hard but the 19 e is much better build and with that spring the best mod I have now hands down
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