Sigelei #19 Tips, tricks, and DON'Ts

[NamVet68]

Whoa! Does the 8W switch fit on the 19E? I think I'd like that type switch better for a bottom pumper. And it looks great too!

Yep - fits like it's made for it. I've put it on both of my 19s (A & E) and it works fine, but I have both of the original switches set up the way I like them now, and the 8W makes a perfect little Pocket-Rocket (in 18350 mode with an Oddy - only 4.5 inches long).

I've seen a #19 with a #29 switch somewhere, and it looked damn good too....I like to mix things up once in a while

EDIT: Found the picture... IMHO, looks pretty good:

 

[Rapture]

i have a 19e all brass no magnets no glue. springs on both top and bottom. is this the best 19? could someone point me in the direction of how i can mod this so not use any springs at all. Is that possible? Seems like it would awesome. The problem is when i put a battery in my mod and screw it tight the top spring digs into the spinning battery and scratches the battery nipple thing on my panasonic 18650 cg

 

[Rapture]

could i just simply take out the top spring completely and then put the brass screw back in without the spring. will this work? has anyone tried that yet. I really this the spring in the top cap is too long and mine is sort of crooked. I was also wondering if battery orientation matters in a mechanical mod. thanks

 

[rokes]

after so many issues with my first 19 with the SG-1 kit and an RSST setup, i sold it. decided to give it another try with a brand new one and tried this time with a new switch that has brass inside instead of the magnet, works a little better but still get the hot button happening here and there.

 

[BWhare]

i have a 19e all brass no magnets no glue. springs on both top and bottom. is this the best 19? could someone point me in the direction of how i can mod this so not use any springs at all. Is that possible? Seems like it would awesome. The problem is when i put a battery in my mod and screw it tight the top spring digs into the spinning battery and scratches the battery nipple thing on my panasonic 18650 cg

The top spring isn't really necessary in 18650 mode so you can remove it. You'll probably need it if you decide to run 18350 batteries.

As far as I know, the only way to run it without the spring in the bottom is if you replace it with a pair of opposing magnets. The parts necessary are listed back somewhere in this thread ;-)

 

[Fergie]

could i just simply take out the top spring completely and then put the brass screw back in without the spring. will this work? has anyone tried that yet.

That's how I have mine, no spring, just the screw and you can adjust the screw of course. Using 18350's.

 

[Rapture]

The top spring isn't really necessary in 18650 mode so you can remove it. You'll probably need it if you decide to run 18350 batteries.

As far as I know, the only way to run it without the spring in the bottom is if you replace it with a pair of opposing magnets. The parts necessary are listed back somewhere in this thread ;-)

thanks i took off the top spring. its shorter. more solid. i dont feel ocd about the spring running my battery. and it seems to hit harder(it was a hard hitter even before)

the opposing magnets sound awesome. but i may just find a softer spring too

thanks

 

[Rapture]

awesome thanks

 

[fr0st]

Outfitted my 19 with the SG-1 kit and the 8W switch. The problem? The switch is so short that the battery won't fire. But it sure looks good!

However while tinkering with it, I was a complete idiot and stuck a hot spring in it and tried to fire it. Another reason to be CAREFUL.

 

[disaznrush]

Here is my 19 with 29 switch with the phoenix v5 ver 2 on top.

 

[Cyrus Vap]

Not sure if I should be posting here or in the sigelei mechanical mods thread, but this is about a 19, so I guess here

I got the 19e from vaportek the other day, and so far I'm loving this thing. Out of the box I measured a .2-.25 drop with a 1.0 ohm coil. The threads are like butter (shocking really, I was expecting crap). And the unit looks damn sharp to be honest.

The button started giving me some issues (misfires and wobble) after a while. I used an oring from a drip tip to shorten the throw and expanded the spring a bit, surprisingly it seems to have solved the misfires (though it still leans a bit if I put it down without locking it). However now it fires regardless of where or how I press the button, very light action (though I don't have a bottom fire mech to compare to be honest)

I'm not crazy about the locking mechanism because if you keep unscrewing a tad too long the bottom of the switch starts to screw out of the switch entirely, but I can live with it, just have to be careful unless you want a spring to hit you in the eye ball.

I filed down the nzonic top cap so my gear would sit flush, decided to give the whole thing a hand polish while I was at it (probably a bad idea as now its a nasty fingerprint magnet, and I didn't even take it to 'mirror' shine)

I ditched the spring in the top cap as it was making me uneasy with all that grinding (pretty sure I hard shorted a battery via the spring warping and touching the wall, but I let's not talk about that lol)

Is anyone aware of a standard size brass (better yet copper) screw that would thread into the delrin on the nzonic cap? It would be nice to have something adjustable so I can use 18350s.

All in all, for 33 bucks or so shipped this PV has made me super happy so far. Very impressed.

 

[Rapture]

Not sure if I should be posting here or in the sigelei mechanical mods thread, but this is about a 19, so I guess here

I got the 19e from vaportek the other day, and so far I'm loving this thing. Out of the box I measured a .2-.25 drop with a 1.0 ohm coil. The threads are like butter (shocking really, I was expecting crap). And the unit looks damn sharp to be honest.

The button started giving me some issues (misfires and wobble) after a while. I used an oring from a drip tip to shorten the throw and expanded the spring a bit, surprisingly it seems to have solved the misfires (though it still leans a bit if I put it down without locking it). However now it fires regardless of where or how I press the button, very light action (though I don't have a bottom fire mech to compare to be honest)

I'm not crazy about the locking mechanism because if you keep unscrewing a tad too long the bottom of the switch starts to screw out of the switch entirely, but I can live with it, just have to be careful unless you want a spring to hit you in the eye ball.

I filed down the nzonic top cap so my gear would sit flush, decided to give the whole thing a hand polish while I was at it (probably a bad idea as now its a nasty fingerprint magnet, and I didn't even take it to 'mirror' shine)

I ditched the spring in the top cap as it was making me uneasy with all that grinding (pretty sure I hard shorted a battery via the spring warping and touching the wall, but I let's not talk about that lol)

Is anyone aware of a standard size brass (better yet copper) screw that would thread into the delrin on the nzonic cap? It would be nice to have something adjustable so I can use 18350s.

All in all, for 33 bucks or so shipped this PV has made me super happy so far. Very impressed.

you honestly took the words right out of my mouth about the switch wobble, buttery threads, and the top spring and screw. Also looking for a screw for the top cap. I am also looking for a different softer more balanced spring for the switch

 

[corpus]

Even though i dont have the nzonic cap a M4 brass screw worked in mine. It needed some pushing to fet it through but once it is fitted you can adjust the pin buy unscrewing the delrin a bit.. needs to be sanded down to size by trying an atty all the while to get a gapless 18350 finish!

 

[Porksmuggler]

However now it fires regardless of where or how I press the button, very light action (though I don't have a bottom fire mech to compare to be honest)

I filed down the nzonic top cap so my gear would sit flush, decided to give the whole thing a hand polish while I was at it (probably a bad idea as now its a nasty fingerprint magnet, and I didn't even take it to 'mirror' shine)

They lightened the spring compared to the original 19e with the bottom magnet, which was a bit too stiff.

Fingerprints are easier to wipe off than tarnish, which the original 19e does quickly with that brushed finish. This second run of the 19e from vaportek Sigelei lightly lacquered over the brushed finish, which is lame. You can get it to mirror with a bit of sanding before the polish, I used 2000 grit.

 

[Cyrus Vap]

you honestly took the words right out of my mouth about the switch wobble, buttery threads, and the top spring and screw. Also looking for a screw for the top cap. I am also looking for a different softer more balanced spring for the switch

Again I don't have anything to compare it to bottom button wise, but adding the drip tip from the o ring really shortens the throw, and spreading the spring out (the middle coils, I found the 'how to' in one of these threads) made it really responsive. Honestly I just lightly touch it with whatever side of my finger is hanging around at the moment and it goes, you may want to give this a whirl.

Even though i dont have the nzonic cap a M4 brass screw worked in mine. It needed some pushing to fet it through but once it is fitted you can adjust the pin buy unscrewing the delrin a bit.. needs to be sanded down to size by trying an atty all the while to get a gapless 18350 finish!

Thanks! I remember reading about an M4 screw being used but I figured it was for the standard cap, not the nzonic. So I take it once you get it through it destroys the threads that are already there in the delirin?

 

[NamVet68]

.....

Is anyone aware of a standard size brass (better yet copper) screw that would thread into the delrin on the nzonic cap? It would be nice to have something adjustable so I can use 18350s.
...

Brass screws are not difficult to find at all - many hardware stores carry them, but Copper screws are very difficult to find because they are generally too soft to retain their threads....however, they are used in tattoo machines because they are such good electrical conductors...here are some on eBay that may work for you:
Copper Machine Screws | eBay

If you can't find the exact thread size - go just a tad larger and let the screw cut new threads. Delrin is pretty soft, but still takes threading pretty.

Good luck...

BTW - the specs for the #19 are:

The top cap screw is 3/16-24 or #10-24
The bottom switch screw is 1/4 by 28 (I couldn't find this one in brass but I'm sure if you search around you can find one.)

Remove top spring and replaced with 8/32 brass screw.

 

[zipflint]

I gotta dumb question. Once you remove the screw and the spring from the delrin on the nzonic top cap.....how do you remove the delrin? I can't tell if it's press-fit or screwed in there, and I'd like to know which before I monkey with it any further and destroy it.

 

[corpus]

I gotta dumb question. Once you remove the screw and the spring from the delrin on the nzonic top cap.....how do you remove the delrin? I can't tell if it's press-fit or screwed in there, and I'd like to know which before I monkey with it any further and destroy it.

The delrin on mine (non nzonic cap) unscrews from the cap.. you might need the help of some pliers as it is firmly screwed in..

In another responce, yes the m4 will make its own threads as it moves in the delrin.

 

[MikeE3]

Well this surprised me. I have 3x 19 buttons all setup up the same way. The center posts on all of 'em are the replacement brass posts (never had magnets on them). 2 of the buttons are SS and 1 is brass. I tested each of them on the same setup, a SS tube 19, with an SG-1 adaptor, and an AGA-T2 w/ a 1.2Ω 28g coil on a ceramic wick.

Both of the SS switches yielded .2 volts less underload than the brass switch <--- that was the surprise. I guess I expected them all to be about the same.

Here's how I setup my switches. A tye each of the spring coils together with thin copper wire, then I make a loop at the end of the wire an put that over the threads before screwing on the button. Before doing this I only occasionally didn't get good contact when pushing in the button - this setup works much more consistently for me. (no it's not my idea, I picked it up from mods others did previously in this thread).

postion the end loop over the threads then screw on the button.

 

[corpus]

What can i say mike! This sigelei 19 mod works in mysterious ways!