Havent had a chance to really mess with it, but my 19e just arrived in the mail and it looks great!
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I got my #19e today as well. It has a few minor issues (sharper machining edges than on my stainless 19a and a slight galling problem on the top-cap threads, but a little Noalox helped a lot). I was going to take the button assy apart, but so far, I may just leave it alone. All I did was put a 14mm copper washer on top of the bottom magnet with a thin film of Noalox and that shortened the button throw and its just about perfect.
I'm amazed at how well this thing vapes .... It seems that there's a much smaller voltage drop across the body....I haven't measured it, but it certainly hits like crazy - much harder than my original #19a. No hot buttons or sparks in a couple of hours of constant use... Other than polishing up a few things here & there, I may just leave it exactly the way it is...
Can't beat it for the money....
I'm amazed at how well this thing vapes .... It seems that there's a much smaller voltage drop across the body....I haven't measured it, but it certainly hits like crazy - much harder than my original #19a. No hot buttons or sparks in a couple of hours of constant use... Other than polishing up a few things here & there, I may just leave it exactly the way it is...
Can't beat it for the money....
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Got the shipping notification today for my 19e. Do they have the nzonic cap on these as well?
waanngg just wanted to thank you again for this excellent tip. i have had zero problems with misfire or hot button since stretching the spring. so simple yet totally effective!
Mine has the old -style cap on it (#19a style - but with the gold spring instead of the magnet), but from what I understand, you should be able to get the Nzonic top in Brass in the future....at least that's what John at Vaportek said on the Vapers Co-op FB site.
I think right now sigelei is cranking them out as fast as they can. As popular as the Stainless #19 has been, I don't think they anticipated the flood of orders for the #19e. I personally think that as good as the regular 19 is, the brass body of the "e" puts this MOD on an entirely different level... I still can't believe how hard it hits, even without any modification (other than the copper washer on top of the bottom magnet).
JMHO
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Well.....that was interesting.... I just had a catastrophic failure with my new 19e (well, not that bad, but it certainly surprised me). I just switched out the battery for a fresh one (been running this non-stop since I got it a few hours ago), and I think I over-tightened top cap spring & got a short across the top of the battery - the E got VERY hot all of a sudden....I spun it apart right away, so no major damage. Top spring collapsed & partially melted the Delrin around one edge. I don't know if the battery is salvageable, a few burn marks on the top, but it's too hot to mess with at the moment.
It appears that the top spring got cocked a little sideways as I was screwing it in & bit into the top edge of the battery & shorted it across the positive pole. This is the first mod I've had with the top spring, so I'm not used to using one...may have been my fault, but needless to say - the spring is GONE! So is the one in the new Enzonic head I got for my #19a but haven't used yet.
No big deal, the spring is just held to the underside of the positive pin with a small screw, so I just removed it and now the positive pin just sits right on top of the positive post on the battery. It's working fine (with a different battery).
I'm suddenly liking the old top-magnet arrangement much better.....
It appears that the top spring got cocked a little sideways as I was screwing it in & bit into the top edge of the battery & shorted it across the positive pole. This is the first mod I've had with the top spring, so I'm not used to using one...may have been my fault, but needless to say - the spring is GONE! So is the one in the new Enzonic head I got for my #19a but haven't used yet.
No big deal, the spring is just held to the underside of the positive pin with a small screw, so I just removed it and now the positive pin just sits right on top of the positive post on the battery. It's working fine (with a different battery).
I'm suddenly liking the old top-magnet arrangement much better.....
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To get rid of the long throw, at least temporarily (I haven't gotten to the point where I've attempted to take the switch apart yet) - put a brass or copper washer on top of the bottom magnet- that will do the trick (should be conductive but not magnetic-don't use steel, plastic or fiber). Just make sure its not too small so it doesn't rattle around - about 14-15 mm is ideal. I used just a small dab of Noalox underneath to hold it in place.
Easy-Peasy...
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Whoa. Not good. Sorta like crashing the car the day you get your drivers license.
I get why they use the spring to tighten up the unit, but really is it needed? If I run a 350, I can just pop it right back in. I am gonna pull that spring and see if I pick up a couple tenths in V?
Scary.
Do you put the battery in bottom up?
When I changed the battery: I go from the top - I unscrew the body first to decompress; then take the head off; switch the battery (negative up); screw the head back on; then screw the whole body back tight.
I ordered 3 adjustable screw posts from GP just to get rid of that spring.
I wouldn't reuse that battery either.
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Yea, I read your post earlier (thanks), but the OCD in me is saying: "I want see what that internal spring is made of and to put the copper wire mod in to see the effect on v drop."
This thing hits so well stock - so how far can it really go...
This is exactly why I removed the spring as first order of business. The spring is actually drilling into the battery as you screw it in, which can be dangerous. Of course, in your case, you could solve it by simply putting the battery in upside down. But I think the spring design is just bad, in fact I have no clue what it's supposed to accomplish other than possibly allow for different 18350 lengths and flush look every time. After I removed the spring, I had to replace the brass screw with a bigger one so it can reach an 18350. Works like a champ now.
I removed the top spring on my 19's as well since I dont use them in 18350 mode. Glad you were able to prevent anything major namvet.
I modded my #20 (again...lol) tonight and it dont rely on a spring anymore for contact anymore. Works great as a 18350 dripper/beater mod.
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I modded my #20 (again...lol) tonight and it dont rely on a spring anymore for contact anymore. Works great as a 18350 dripper/beater mod.
Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2
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Has anyone tested the stock spring / magnet setup for drop at the connector? I am curious since my 19b has zero drop after the mods, but I never tested it before removing the magnet and spring.
I will try it out on my 19e when it arrives, but until then....
I will try it out on my 19e when it arrives, but until then....
Yea, I read your post earlier (thanks), but the OCD in me is saying: "I want see what that internal spring is made of and to put the copper wire mod in to see the effect on v drop."
Are you referring to the copper wire in the switch? After a bit more reading, I decided to give this a try in my switch and it works flawlessly. The button fires anywhere I touch. Super easy mod also. Took less time to add the wire than it did to fit the copper washer I originally put into the locking ring (which I don't think made a difference at all lol)
Just picked up a 19b, one hell of a mod for the price. I cut down the 510 spring and unscrewed the center pin just enough for my IGO-l (sub ohm) to sit flush with the connector. I noticed the switch needed to tilt (when pressed straight in I saw sparks fly), to fix that I just stuffed as much braided wire I could into switch cavity. Battery is placed button top down, now it hits hard with a much shorter throw.
I don't even feel like using my macaveli anymore.
I don't even feel like using my macaveli anymore.
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I heard that button top down is better. But what's the science behind it
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Guys and gals... DO NOT PUT YOUR BATTERIES INSIDE YOUR MODS UPSIDE DOWN. POSITIVE ALWAYS GOES UP, ALWAYS.
Inserting batteries the wrong way is just asking for a hard short.
Inserting batteries the wrong way is just asking for a hard short.
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OK Chirren... I got the switch apart on the #19e, and it wasn't too difficult in the long run (though I tried many techniques that have worked for me getting frozen-together Motorcycle parts apart - no joy). I almost used the old-cut-a-slot-in-the-magnet trick, but I wanted to keep the bottom magnet intact (I kind of like it now), and I didn't want to mar the brass button of at all possible.
What finally worked was placing the button on top of my padded vice (any sturdy flat surface with a bit of thin padding will work), pushed the button down so the magnet/cup was above the surface of the Delrin cup, and gave it a couple of good bashes with a nylon-faced hammer (you could also use a piece of plastic/wood/etc and a regular small hammer). Then I just grabbed a pair of my gripper disks (those rubber disks used to help open jars - my new favorite tool for getting stuck MODs apart), put them on either end of the switch and placed it in the heels of the palms of my hands & twisted in opposite directions - came apart as clean as can be.
There was absolutely NO glue on the button or post (at least in mine), but brass has a habit of "gripping" to itself much better than most other metals (galling). The force of the blows seemed to have been enough to break their bond so they could be twisted apart...whatever, the switch is fully dissasembled now without any damage or marks whatsoever ...
Let the modding begin!
Good luck
EDIT: On closer inspection, there was a very small amount of something in the threads of the fire button, but I don't know if it was really glue, or just general crud from the manufacturing process....since there was such a small amount, I doubt it was actually glue.....and remember - the button & post are functionally part of the switch, so they need to have good conductivity between themselves.
What finally worked was placing the button on top of my padded vice (any sturdy flat surface with a bit of thin padding will work), pushed the button down so the magnet/cup was above the surface of the Delrin cup, and gave it a couple of good bashes with a nylon-faced hammer (you could also use a piece of plastic/wood/etc and a regular small hammer). Then I just grabbed a pair of my gripper disks (those rubber disks used to help open jars - my new favorite tool for getting stuck MODs apart), put them on either end of the switch and placed it in the heels of the palms of my hands & twisted in opposite directions - came apart as clean as can be.
There was absolutely NO glue on the button or post (at least in mine), but brass has a habit of "gripping" to itself much better than most other metals (galling). The force of the blows seemed to have been enough to break their bond so they could be twisted apart...whatever, the switch is fully dissasembled now without any damage or marks whatsoever ...
Let the modding begin!
Good luck
EDIT: On closer inspection, there was a very small amount of something in the threads of the fire button, but I don't know if it was really glue, or just general crud from the manufacturing process....since there was such a small amount, I doubt it was actually glue.....and remember - the button & post are functionally part of the switch, so they need to have good conductivity between themselves.
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When in doubt...hit it with a hammer. lol
OK Chirren... I got the switch apart on the #19e, and it wasn't too difficult in the long run (though I tried many techniques that have worked for me getting frozen-together Motorcycle parts apart - no joy). I almost used the old-cut-a-slot-in-the-magnet trick, but I wanted to keep the bottom magnet intact (I kind of like it now), and I didn't want to mar the brass button of at all possible.
What finally worked was placing the button on top of my padded vice (any sturdy flat surface with a bit of thin padding will work), pushed the button down so the magnet/cup was above the surface of the Delrin cup, and gave it a couple of good bashes with a nylon-faced hammer (you could also use a piece of plastic/wood/etc and a regular small hammer). Then I just grabbed a pair of my gripper disks (those rubber disks used to help open jars - my new favorite tool for getting stuck MODs apart), put them on either end of the switch and placed it in the palms of my hands & twisted in opposite directions - came apart as clean as can be.
There was absolutely NO glue on the button or post (at least in mine), but brass has a habit of "gripping" to itself much better than most other metals (galling). The force of the blows seemed to have been enough to break their bond so they could be twisted apart...whatever, the switch is fully dissasembled now without any damage or marks whatsoever ...
Let the modding begin!
Good luck
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