Sigelei 75w Temp Control

[peterforpats]

Just saw your post....I am having the same problem! I guess this is NOT normal for box mods??

well, i have 6 other TC mods and the sigelei definitely goes through batteries faster than any other mod(same settings). that said, i still enjoy the sigelei and find myself reaching for it over my other mods- just feels right in my hand and that holds more importance than other features. i am not as technically inclined as some folks-if it fires readily and and the vape is just right that means more than any other factor. right now, the sigelei fits the bill-i know a dna200 is in my future but i doubt any 2 battery(or li-po) will feel as good in my hands. still, i hear the siren call and new device is just ahead-won't be a sigelei as they don't do evolv boards but for now the sigelei 75 TC works out just fine.......

 

[Maurice Pudlo]

I have one on order at the moment, this will be my second regulated mod after my itaste mvp.

I pretty much only use mechanical mods at the moment, and not usually anywhere near 75w so this mod seems on its face just about exactly what I need.

Maurice

 

[jseah]

@bekka, this is perfectly normal.

 

[Jalcide]

Data are in: My Sig. is cutting off when battery reaches 3.40 volts.

I'm fine with that. I find myself swapping out around 3.6 anyway.

That's about where I switch-out on my Snow Wolf, too.

It seemed like a reasonable amount of vaping at high wattage for a single cell, but the only other single 18650 mods I have are mech. So I'll defer to the experts.

 

[jseah]

Data are in: My Sig. is cutting off when battery reaches 3.40 volts.

I'm fine with that. I find myself swapping out around 3.6 anyway.

That's about where I switch-out on my Snow Wolf, too.

It seemed like a reasonable amount of vaping at high wattage for a single cell, but the only other single 18650 mods I have are mech. So I'll defer to the experts.

With my SX Mini, I can go through two batteries in one day on that too, and the SX Mini battery cutoff is just under 3.2 volts. FWIW, my Snow Wold cuts off at 3.2 volts also, but because it has two batteries, it will last me all day. The Sigelei 150 TC also cuts off around 3.3/3.4 volts (depending on where I set the wattage at) so it will also last me a day with the two batteries.

 

[Maurice Pudlo]

Being mainly a mech user, I don't expect any single cell device to last all day. I know what a single cell can do with a variety of builds.

The major complaints seem to revolve around battery life at XXX setting on this device not matching that of other devices set to the same settings. The flaw with this is that the two devices may not be outputting the same power regardless of set point. Each device may not be outputting the power it says it is delivering for that matter.

My primary expectation is that the device regulates coil temperature, I'll adjust up or down till I find what I like, and call it good.

I'll be using Ti wire, which means an intentional offset in the called for temperature will be needed as this device does not have built in support. I'm okay with this over using nickel wire, my atties and less than deft hands aren't exactly fond of the stuff.

Maurice

 

[serene.in.dallas]

Will be selling my sig 75 today. Just not what i was hoping for.

 

[Jalcide]

At least the battery level display seems to match with the cut-off point. It was showing nearly empty for an appropriate amount of time before cutting. I.e., the level didn't jump right at the end.

So that's good.

 

[Jalcide]

I think I figured this out (mostly). It's the 75 watt capability thing and a safety thing.

There is a massive non-linear difference between 75w capable and 60w capable (e.g., the SX Mini).

So apples to apples needs to be done with other regulated mods that use a single 18650 and that can go to 75watts. A 60w device like the SX Mini can safely lower its voltage cut-off point and still maintain a safe discharge rate at a worst-case 60w setting. For a 75w device, that number is going to be around 3.4 volts.

As voltage on the battery drops over discharge, amps must increase to produce the same wattage at the coil.

At 75 watts (which the user could set at any time, even if vaping lower), the current draw is going to be 22 amps when the battery is fresh at 4.2 volts. As that battery's voltage drops over time, the amps must increase to 24 amps at 3.9 volts, 26 amps at 3.6v, and almost 28 amps at 3.4, and so on.

The engineers probably had to strike a safety / performance balance for those that might still be using 20a batteries.

It's already pushing it. 28 amps semi-continuous (say a 10 second drag) for a 20a battery sounds about right.

In comparison, a 60w single battery device would only draw 22a at the 3.4v battery state. Or, if 28a is the desired safety limit here, that 60w device (at a worst case 60w) would allow a battery to go down to to 2.7 volts before forcing the battery to output 28a.

This would explain why the SX Mini has a lower cut-off. It can only go up to 60 watts.

So, it's a battery safety issue for users that might use 75 watts and might not have 30a or higher batteries. Even with 30a batteries, it's only just coming under the safety margin (at 28a).

Now, having said all that. There is one build quality variable that we can nitpick: efficiency of the regulated mod. It's normally between 80% and 95%. The numbers I ran were making a worst case assumption of 80% (which requires more power, around 94 watts when the setting is at 75 watts).

If the device had a 95% APV efficiency rating, that 28 amp hit against the battery we saw with an 80% rated APV, would drop to 23 amps. If such a high-end device exists, it would allow a very nice and low cut-off point of 2.8v (to still have battery safety and crank out 75 watts).

So, APV efficiency is key. It should be one of the things we test for when comparing different mods.

So the real questions are: what is the APV efficiency rating of these various devices and why? Does physics and/or form factor determine this, or is it just cost?

 

[caboog78]

Anybody else having issues with it not firing when you hit the button? Noticed it in power mode a quite a bit it seemed, but went away when I put a nickel build on. Now, after about 2 tanks through that I'm starting to get the same isse. Hit the button, nothing. Let go, fire again, and good to go. Is it just me, gotta clean something maybe?

 

[Jalcide]

Anybody else having issues with it not firing when you hit the button? Noticed it in power mode a quite a bit it seemed, but went away when I put a nickel build on. Now, after about 2 tanks through that I'm starting to get the same isse. Hit the button, nothing. Let go, fire again, and good to go. Is it just me, gotta clean something maybe?

I've only had it happen when the battery meter was near empty.

For me, it seemed to be chip-controlled and not with the button mechanics, itself.

 

[SteveElbows]

Yeah its happened to me in power mode too (I don't use temp mode much yet). It, combined with the horrible cheap feel of the buttons and the terrible click mine makes when releasing the main button has stopped me from wanting to keep it in my hand all day. I need to test more to see if it happens more often under certain conditions (e.g. certain batteries at certain levels of charge)

Since its not giving me good use at the moment, I'm tempted to try taking it apart to study how the buttons work.

For example one question I have that I would dearly appreciate a response to here, is from people who say they have no button rattle at all. For me the up/down buttons are made of a single plastic piece which rattles rather a lot. I wonder if someone with no rattle could place their finger gently on one of those buttons and give it a gentle wiggle from side to side - does it wiggle and does the other button move a little at the same time too?

 

[Jalcide]

Yeah its happened to me in power mode too (I don't use temp mode much yet). It, combined with the horrible cheap feel of the buttons and the terrible click mine makes when releasing the main button has stopped me from wanting to keep it in my hand all day. I need to test more to see if it happens more often under certain conditions (e.g. certain batteries at certain levels of charge)

Since its not giving me good use at the moment, I'm tempted to try taking it apart to study how the buttons work.

For example one question I have that I would dearly appreciate a response to here, is from people who say they have no button rattle at all. For me the up/down buttons are made of a single plastic piece which rattles rather a lot. I wonder if someone with no rattle could place their finger gently on one of those buttons and give it a gentle wiggle from side to side - does it wiggle and does the other button move a little at the same time too?

No button rattle. If I try to wiggle the up/down button closest to the display I get no movement. The fit is tight/perfect.

If I try to move the up/down button farthest from the display gently with a single finger, no movement. Again very tight. However, it's ever so slightly less tight. If I grip it with both fingers and try real hard I can get a tiny amount of movement on that one button. We're talking less than could be measured with calipers and no difference in feel when in use.

When I can get that bottom button to wiggle by that tiny amount, I do see the other button move ever so slightly. I had to take my glasses off and hold the unit close and steady to even see it.

Hope that helps.

As for the tactile click when releasing the fire button, that's actually the only thing I like about that cheap, plastic, chrome-plated button. Lol.

 

[SteveElbows]

Thanks very much for the info. This makes it even more likely that I will take a look inside to see whats going on with mine.

 

[SteveElbows]

Took it apart, fiddled around, put it back together. No really obvious fixes sprang to mind, but just the act of disassembling and reassembling has got rid of the horrible click I always got when releasing the fire button. Now I get a nice click that also feels nice, whereas before it sounded unpleasant and quite violent.

Its what I hated most about this device so I'm really happy now, although it really wasnt that obvious that I'd fixed the problem until I fully reassembled it all, so I initially thought I'd wasted my time. Yay.

 

[SteveElbows]

The weirdest thing about taking it apart was that when throwing the buttons onto my desk, they came across as less cheap than they normally appear to be, weightier. And the outer central band part of the casing came across as more cheap than it does normally. Overall though my impression hasn't changed - the feeling of quality comes from the doors and the screen, everything else is a bit cheap & nasty really.

 

[Jalcide]

The weirdest thing about taking it apart was that when throwing the buttons onto my desk, they came across as less cheap than they normally appear to be, weightier. And the outer central band part of the casing came across as more cheap than it does normally. Overall though my impression hasn't changed - the feeling of quality comes from the doors and the screen, everything else is a bit cheap & nasty really.

Could you tell if the buttons were solid metal, or were they plastic with chrome plating? I'm now having doubts about my plastic+chrome assumption.

 

[SteveElbows]

Could you tell if the buttons were solid metal, or were they plastic with chrome plating? I'm now having doubts about my plastic+chrome assumption.

I'm not an expert on that kind of issue, all I can really say is that the fire button was weighty enough to confuse me.

What I can say is that there is a recessed area on the back of the buttons, where they touch the actual switches. This recessed area is filled with a substance which I shall call silicone, or some other type of rubbery substance. The up/down buttons are indeed one piece, which has a very small hole with no apparent function in the area that joins the two rounded buttons together. The fire button isn't completely circular deeper down, it has two straight edges which stop it from rotating.

I should of taken photos, but I was in a rush. It was certainly an easy device to disassemble to a large extent without much risk of breaking anything, After removing the numerous small screws from one side of the black internal chassis, including 2 that are under small QC stickers, the top of the black section comes off. The circuitboard can then be pulled out from its grooves without much trouble at all, and then the buttons just fall out.

 

[ShelaghDB]

I apologize if this has been spoken of anywhere else earlier? Sigelei 75TC V1, V2 and now V3 versions.....

I just found out, IF it hasn't been mentioned here yet, although I suspect it must have been, that Sigelei 75 watt TC has 3 different versions. V1, V2 and V3. It seems to me that V1 was the one that some might have purchased for $59 at various sale sites up to 6-8 weeks ago? It seems to me as well, that it might be that particular version that has been having the problems, IF i am right.

Someone else has a V1 version and for reasons i am not sure of, ordered a replacement set of doors and received his from some store but they did not fit. I think he was led to believe that they HAD to fit but they didn't. He just found out about the 3 different versions and the doors, as it turns out, that he bought and didn't fit were being sold by all the stores, none of which themselves, knew, or claim to knew that there was more than one version. These same stores with these doors in stock claim they were not told by Sigelei, that they were only for the V1 version.
But that V3 is just a slight upgrade from V2.

$62.22 Authentic Sigelei 75W Temperature Control VW Variable Wattage APV Box Mod - 5-75W / aluminum alloy at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping


If you look at the pictures on Fasttech, for example, their version shows only 3 air holes on one side of the case. I have 4 air holes. 3 exactly in the same spot as the ones shown on FT but I have a 4th, on its own, about 1.5 inches down from the 3 shown. I am in the midst of tr ying to figure out which version I have as mine matches the ones presently shown on the Sigelei main page. But I also paid full price for mine at a respected vape store here in Toronto.
I use the term "respected" for they don't buy from 3rd parties, or I suspect don't buy "seconds" but buy the latest versions, at least for that time but I would likely have a far better chance of having an issue dealt with, through the store I dealt with if mine develops any problems, through such a "respected" vape store, than I would if i paid $59 through one of the ones picking them up cheaper......I might be wrong but I suspect that those were the V1 versions they were pushing out on sale.

V1 has both holes for side plate in the middle on both sides and magnets towards the outside
V2 has the hole and the magnet on the Sigelei plate side reversed on the bottom of the unit ( Why those cover plates would not fit my V1 unit )
V3 has no holes and uses 4 magnets on each side.

( I however have 4 holes so not sure if this is 100% accurate about the V3 version)

Minor Software update between V2 and V3 but the updates on V3 I understand, or have been told, are minor and just fix 1 or 2 very tiny glitches.

I had the same issue with Heatvape Invader Mini TC device. They were selling at GB for $80 and it turned out that Busardo did a video claiming they were V1 versions. The stores selling them at higher prices were selling V2. If you managed to find a store selling them lower, it was likely V1 and the V1s proved to be problematic. I too bought a V1 that died within 2 weeks but it was switched out for a V2 that still runs today

Edit:

If any of my assumptions are incorrect, about what i perceive to be the V1 edition, please let me know but with the information I have been given, the above is how I read these at the moment

 

[gofishtx]

I was having decent battery life on Mine tootle puffing in power mode at between 15 and 20 watts with a Subtank Mini and the OCC.5 ohm coil. Chain vaping, the battery would go around 5 hours or more. I ordered the Sigelei Elite Tank V2 with nickel coils that run 60 to 70 watts. On my Invader Mini in TC mode I could run this tank at 30 watts 390 degrees and get a decent vape but only an hour of battery life. On my Sigelei 75 watt. I set the watts at 60 and had to set the temp up to 460 to get a good vape. This cuts the battery life on the Sig down to under 2 hours. I think I will save the Elite Tank for using on The Sigelei 150 TC I will be ordering soon. I will try the nickel coils in my Subtank mini on The Sigelei 75 watt and see if it works better at lower wattage and temps without so much battery drain. If not I will just use it in Power mode and have a great Sub Ohm device with batteries that last half a day.

P.S. I have had no issues with button rattling and I did have 1 door that moved just a smidge when I first got it but after almost 4 weeks of use it seems to have leveled itself out and no longer moves. I still love My Sig 75