Sigelei Mechnical Mods

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Scarey

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well that's not asking for much now, is it?
this thread has about every fix and then some for the sigelei models- just need to do some homework :D

I tried to read the thread, but my ADHD got the best of me after 150 pages of only the 8, 13, 19, 20 and other non-Sigeili related posts.
 

gdeal

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I tried to read the thread, but my ADHD got the best of me after 150 pages of only the 8, 13, 19, 20 and other non-Sigeili related posts.

Hey Scarey, When I am looking for something specific, I go to the advance search function for the thread. Its usually pretty good to get you to posts of interest. :)

But if you are looking for a summary, I dont think there is a short cut. Too many models, too many issues.... but fortunately a whole bunch of creative solutions by great minds....
 

Scarey

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Looking for something in particular?

Specifically, not exactly. I'd just like to know which ones are the best out of the box. Minimal alteration would be nice. Aside from that, I would prefer bottom button, for pocket carry convenience, but if all of the bottom button models need heavy modding, then a pinky switch could work. I'd just worry about it breaking at work.
 

phee

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I've got a sigelei 8D, fired a few times when I first got it and suddenly the damn thing stopped firing - can't figure out for the life of me what the hell's going on. I must have taken the thing apart a 2 dozen times and sanded every possible connection and still nothing. anyone have any ideas?
 

Mitey F

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I've got a sigelei 8D, fired a few times when I first got it and suddenly the damn thing stopped firing - can't figure out for the life of me what the hell's going on. I must have taken the thing apart a 2 dozen times and sanded every possible connection and still nothing. anyone have any ideas?

If it's not firing, sanding contacts isn't going to help. Something isn't making contact in the first place.
 

State O' Flux

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I've got a sigelei 8D, fired a few times when I first got it and suddenly the damn thing stopped firing - can't figure out for the life of me what the hell's going on. I must have taken the thing apart a 2 dozen times and sanded every possible connection and still nothing. anyone have any ideas?
I bet you don't have a DMM... do you. If you're going to play with mechs, you really need to invest in, even a cheap, DMM. Volts, ohms, continuity, amps... all the tests you need to sort out your issues... without playing 20 questions on ECF. ;-)
 

NamVet68

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Specifically, not exactly. I'd just like to know which ones are the best out of the box. Minimal alteration would be nice. Aside from that, I would prefer bottom button, for pocket carry convenience, but if all of the bottom button models need heavy modding, then a pinky switch could work. I'd just worry about it breaking at work.


IMHO, if you like a bottom-fire button, just get one of the newer #19 (either brass or stainless). The new ones have all the bugs with the switch & magnets worked out...just remove the top spring [Easy] (or leave it in if you only want to run 18350 mode), and you are done.

If you like the pinky button - the #13a is the best out of the box...nothing really needed to make it better....other than a little Noalox on the tube threads (good idea on ANY mechanical anyway).

Both are among Sigelei's better MODS. Again, just my opinion - and I own one or more of most of their MODS...those two work the best for me.


Have fun....
 
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Mitey F

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yes, agreed. where is the question…

I'm not asking a question. I was more implying why you're taking it apart and sanding stuff if it's not firing, as that will not cure the problem. You need to grab a multimeter and find out where the break in your circuit is.
 
I tried reading through this thread but you guys have covered a lot of ground. Sorry if this has been asked already.

Can anyone tell me if the 19/8/13 Nzonic head will fit the #24? The #24 has this slight dome to it that is kind of driving me crazy. I need to order some spare hot springs for it and if the Nzonic head will fit, I figure I may as well throw one on the order to make the best of my shipping costs and see if I like the look of it better.
 

chef josh

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I found a way to combine the 19 with a GG... uploadfromtaptalk1380653945616.jpg
From left to right oldie #364, ggts ss #141, and ggts19 Hybrid!

Sent from my SGH-I317M using Tapatalk 2
 

phee

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I bet you don't have a DMM... do you. If you're going to play with mechs, you really need to invest in, even a cheap, DMM. Volts, ohms, continuity, amps... all the tests you need to sort out your issues... without playing 20 questions on ECF. ;-)

I actually do own two DMMs, an analog voltage meter and built and several ohm readers (I work with a lot of circuitry in my spare time)

Anyhow, I what i meant by "where is the question" is where the heck the short is, the meters aren't picking up any readings - I figured I'd post to see if anyone else had come to some conclusions that would help me along the way.
 

308hjute

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Here a quick run through on setting up a magnetic switch for the Sigelei #19. The only parts I needed to source were two ring magnets.

I used these: SuperMagnetMan and for the bonus they were actually gold plated (not that we needed that for this version of the mod)

Parts:
Small o-ring for spacing the brass post a bit higher in the delrin insulator
Braided copper wire (see my earlier post of Studiovap's mod; http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...78-sigelei-mechnical-mods-42.html#post9614724)
Two ring magnets: 12mm OD/8mm ID - 3mm thick

9q6s.jpg


Before you assemble, you will need to either bring the brass post down in diameter by ~.25mm or expand the center of the ring magnets by .25mm. They both spec out to 8mm and would not fit together. I didn't want to really touch the post so I opened up the magnets using 120/320/600 grit sandpaper wrapped around a 6mm bolt, then chucked in a drill. You need to go slow and do not let the magnets heat-up. They will loose magnetism. They just need to slide onto the post, the less gap the better.

Step One:

Insert the post into the delrin spacer upside down. Take the preformed copper wire and secure in the small gap at the base of the delrin spacer. Bend the smaller top circle of the preformed copper wire up. This will give you room to place the magnets. This picture has magnet number one in place.

fkwk.jpg


Step Two

Find the right polarity of the second magnet so that its opposing magnet one. These magnets are very strong and will flip easily. Place magnet number two over the post and wrap the copper wire over the magnet and twist tight to the base of the post thread. Try to keep the wire close to the last thread, there is not a lot to play with and you need the threads to secure the end-cap. Here is a picture of the result. Notice that magnet two is floating. The wire is preventing the magnet from popping off.

u8u4.jpg


Step Three:

Replace the lock ring cap, making sure that the large loop of the wire is tucked nicely in the delrin spacer gap. The lock ring should be able to tighten all the way down. Then re-attach the button using pressure on the battery side of the brass post and on the outside of the button to tighten and lock down on the wire.

qwnq.jpg


Here is my final result:

1fr.jpg


gnep.jpg


The button has about 2mm of play before firing. You can use another o-ring spacer next to the first one to bring the distance closer, but I did not have the right size, so I went with the single o-ring.

Vape performance is the same as the copper wire with the spring mod (the wire is the path of current), which is outstanding BTW. The feel of the button push is interesting. Its smooth, but the resistance increases as the magnets get closer. The push force is very light, has no grinding and the Mod stands without firing. After vaping with this for the day, I know by touch and the feel of the resistance when the mod is going to fire. I have not been able to get that with a spring yet. With the spring, it was more like push until it stops. This has a touch thing going on.

Cost of mod. - $1.50 (not including shipping...) Value = priceless. :)

Got the magnets for this upgrade today. Can anyone tell me the type of wire I should be looking for?
 

NamVet68

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Got the magnets for this upgrade today. Can anyone tell me the type of wire I should be looking for?

16 gauge copper works for me. The simplest way to get it is go to an electronics/electrical supply/hardware store and get some 16guage electrical copper wire & strip the insulation off of it. Make sure it's multi-strand twisted wire as in the photos, not solid copper...the finer strand wire is easier to work with.

Good luck
 
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There was a point that I was happy with my Sigelei Zmax V3, but unfortunately this thing hit the crapper quick
I am one that is extremely careful with my mods only because I know how fragile they can be
I never, yes never, dropped my Zmax, but for some reason after 4-5 months of use my button doesn't function properly
What I mean is when you hit the button it's almost like the connections isn't catching so instead of getting a vape hit I get nada
When I'd look at my screen it would be in the menu selection, very frustrating
Bought this for $90 from my local store and unfortunately my local store couldn't fix or replace my device
So when I began looking into to upgrading to mechanical mods to avoid anymore electronic issues, my local store had Sigelei mech mods
After doing research on these Chinese mech mods I came to find that A LOT of people were not fans of these things
I can understand why, they don't feel durable AT ALL, continuous reviews of misfires, having to replace springs, and firing pins
Personally if I had to pay $60, which was the price at the store, I don't wanna buy something that already has problems
I went down the road with a Kamry K100, nothing fancy, but from reviews no real continuous errors
My opinion I will NEVER buy sigelei again
 
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