So after applying noalox to my V3, ny intermittent button issues seem, so far, to have gone away. Fingers crossed.
Curt.
Curt.
Sigelei Zmax V3 and V5 Telescopic: User's Group
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I haven't wanted to do that for reasons you hinted at (plus it would be a mess). Those threads are much finer/precise and "shouldn't" give you much of a problem as long as they are kept clean. That's my 2-cents anyway.
I didn't look back to get the full history of what's been going on with his issues. Thanks for pointing that out yzer.
I have not used Noalox on the 510 threads. I clean the 510 connector daily with Kleenex and I don't want to re-apply it every day. Also, I don't want Noalox that close to air I'm drawing into the atomizer. Noalox is not intended for contact with food. I don't use Noalox on the removable top cap threading, either. The top cap is not part of the ground circuit.
Actually the way my button is placed is exactly how it was manufactured. It is not defective. My screen is still centered in the cutout; straight and level. The board has not moved up.
My point is those with questions about the button lining up earlier, no it doesn't line up. If yours does I would think you button hole was punched higher, closer to the screen, than mine.
It has been working as my all day 4-6 ml mod just been kinda annoying. I'm just trying to get to the bottom of these issues.
The board movement I notice is normal. If you take the tube off and slide a battery in, look in the screen at the shiney parts, apply a little pressure on the battery - you will see it move. It is how it is made. I do not believe its defective.
The main problem is, it seems, has been related to the contact on the threads - of course. Causing it to shut down and go to the long Sigelei screen. The button issues are well reported and i knew that going in. Needs a solid push in the middle. on the edge of the button not good.
Others are reporting the buzzing noises as well.
If we can determine the causes of these reports then this will help other owners.
I have 2 wraps of foil around the threads and the tube is really tight. I have been vaping 1.7 ohm coil at 6 volts for most the day and have not had a single shut down! The mod is no longer getting hot in my hands.
I like the foil because it is metal, and its right here at home.
That's good news JeremyR! I thought your button issue was worse off than that.
If that foil wrap has eliminated the tube heating and misfire issues then Noalox should achieve the same result.
I still have no idea about the sound you encounter. That's baffling to me.
If that foil wrap has eliminated the tube heating and misfire issues then Noalox should achieve the same result.
I still have no idea about the sound you encounter. That's baffling to me.
I just just tried this but a little differently. I took off the battery cap and removed the spring while leaving the battery in the tube. Then I set the small end of the spring on the battery and the base of the spring on a credit card. I depressed the credit card and the spring a little over 3/4 of the spring's relaxed length. I saw no movement of the screen in any direction. It's locked in there.
In my experience, there should never be any board movement at all. I've had mine and my Dad's apart a few different times to adjust the screen and later to replace both buttons with new ones and I've seen how the board is glued in there. There is a small space between the circuit board and the top cap. Normally, the board is glued in solid so that even when a battery is pushing against the board with the spring tension of the bottom cap, it is held in place. I've had to dig that glue away when removing the board and then replace with epoxy when putting it back together to keep it from shifting later on. However, the factory glue bond has been known to come loose when excessive force is applied (over tightening the battery tube) causing the board to shift or come to rest against the bottom of the top cap.
If you are seeing that board shift, I would take it apart and re-glue it, or send it back. I don't know what your vendor's policy is on a return for that, since they could say that you overtightened it, but I'm just guessing and have no idea. I've never tried to get mine replaced. It's not hard to fix on your own if you're reasonably good at that sort of thing.
Just my two cents. Best of luck to you with getting your issues resolved.
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Ok, Yeah I'm sure the little bit of glue came loose then. I imagine dropping it could have jarred it loose. It's been dropped quite a few times, the awesome thing is the 510 didn't break. I dropped a kamry with an oddy on it and the oddy fell right out and stripped the 510 or pulled it out. So yeah this thing is pretty tough for sure and I'm pretty happy with that!
Also, No more stun gun buzzing noises so far after a day. I'm pretty sure it was the poor ground causing it.
I've been studying the internal photos on this website - Sigelei Zmax v3 insides and repair
Well this is probably gonna happen anyway. My 3 year old likes to break in My mods by throwing them across the room when he gets a hold of them. Lol . The little bit of board movement Is not really affecting performance. Since 101 is oos I'll stick with it. The foil wrap has tightened the tube threads a lot and it feels solid now. No more shut downs, which was the big problem.
The movement of the board is small and it seems to bottom out. I'm not going to worry about it right now. It's gonna be a little trickier getting the top off with the removable top cap.
All in all is is working just fine now that the ground at the threads has been stabilized. Thanks guys.
Also, No more stun gun buzzing noises so far after a day. I'm pretty sure it was the poor ground causing it.
I've been studying the internal photos on this website - Sigelei Zmax v3 insides and repair
Well this is probably gonna happen anyway. My 3 year old likes to break in My mods by throwing them across the room when he gets a hold of them. Lol . The little bit of board movement Is not really affecting performance. Since 101 is oos I'll stick with it. The foil wrap has tightened the tube threads a lot and it feels solid now. No more shut downs, which was the big problem.
The movement of the board is small and it seems to bottom out. I'm not going to worry about it right now. It's gonna be a little trickier getting the top off with the removable top cap.
All in all is is working just fine now that the ground at the threads has been stabilized. Thanks guys.
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Yup. Once your circuit board is re-glued and your thread issue is handled (sounds like you got that licked), your V3 should be back to 100%. Interesting solution using aluminum foil. I might have to give that a try myself. I've never been a fan of the loose threading on the V3 although some have said that it is necessary for the tube to thread easily. I'm still on the fence about that. It seems to me that they could stand to be improved a little at the factory, but that's just my relatively uninformed opinion.
The V3 is pretty tough, I agree. Usually when I drop mine I bust off my plastic mouth pieces at the o-ring and have to dig out the lower piece from the top of the tank (I must have have super glued several of mine back together a dozen times so far) and have also bent or snapped off my tank's 510 threads one or twice also when I used a Viva Nova. Luckily that hasn't happened yet with my Protank 2 or Davide bottom fed tanks which seem a little sturdier. The 510 threads on the V3 always seemed to hold up fine regardless. I hope that remains to be the case (knocking on wood).
The V3 is pretty tough, I agree. Usually when I drop mine I bust off my plastic mouth pieces at the o-ring and have to dig out the lower piece from the top of the tank (I must have have super glued several of mine back together a dozen times so far) and have also bent or snapped off my tank's 510 threads one or twice also when I used a Viva Nova. Luckily that hasn't happened yet with my Protank 2 or Davide bottom fed tanks which seem a little sturdier. The 510 threads on the V3 always seemed to hold up fine regardless. I hope that remains to be the case (knocking on wood).
Yeah I wasn't keen on the loose threading of the tube either but being stainless I have no worry of it stripping. I cut a strip of foil about the size of threads and wrapped around twice, in the direction of threads, forming into the threads as I went around. With a very small bit that I could form around the lip to the inside to hold in place while tightening. It screws on tight but good. I only use 18650 so no need to adjust a lot once its tight.....
.........
.... Ok my son just grabbed it and chucked it across the room slamming it into the baseboard.(not the first time) He's got quite an arm... Well no worries of breaking the top cap loose..lol ... it popped loose.. The heavy oddy still attached with no damage to the threads.
The insert must be pretty tight It took quite a bit of force to straighten it out till I can disasemble tonight.
Still vaping away on it..
.
.........
.... Ok my son just grabbed it and chucked it across the room slamming it into the baseboard.(not the first time) He's got quite an arm... Well no worries of breaking the top cap loose..lol ... it popped loose.. The heavy oddy still attached with no damage to the threads.
The insert must be pretty tight It took quite a bit of force to straighten it out till I can disasemble tonight.
Still vaping away on it..
.
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The only damage I've had from a drop to the floor happened to the carto tank. The carto was bent just above the 510 connector but the carto tank and the 510 connector on the Sigelei escaped unharmed.
Well, I guess we know how to take the cap off the new version V3's now... Just send the V3 to you and have your kid chuck it across the room. 
The first time I removed the top cap I rocked the cap back and forth while pulling firmly until the cap finally cleared the body (body was in a vice and I had a rag wrapped around the top cap for the vice grips). I would rock one direction, then shim something in the gap, then rock the other way and shim that gap, repeating back and forth and shimming thicker and thicker objects until it finally came free. I think I used a few razor blades as shims for starters until I had enough gap to use something thicker (screwdriver tip, Popsicle sticks, whatever). You don't have to do it that way, but I was being pretty .... and ultra careful my first time. Whatever you do, be careful how much force you use to pull at the cap. When the cap comes free from the body it will likely surprise you and you could easily yank your wires out of the circuit board. It happened to me on my 3rd or 4th disassembly even though I was expecting it and I had to re-soldier a wire back to the board. Also, I don't recommend you mess with the screen in any way (it can be finicky and start acting weird) and be careful with that flimsy yellow ribbon cable. I had a scare with that, but managed to get it working again. Best of luck!
The first time I removed the top cap I rocked the cap back and forth while pulling firmly until the cap finally cleared the body (body was in a vice and I had a rag wrapped around the top cap for the vice grips). I would rock one direction, then shim something in the gap, then rock the other way and shim that gap, repeating back and forth and shimming thicker and thicker objects until it finally came free. I think I used a few razor blades as shims for starters until I had enough gap to use something thicker (screwdriver tip, Popsicle sticks, whatever). You don't have to do it that way, but I was being pretty .... and ultra careful my first time. Whatever you do, be careful how much force you use to pull at the cap. When the cap comes free from the body it will likely surprise you and you could easily yank your wires out of the circuit board. It happened to me on my 3rd or 4th disassembly even though I was expecting it and I had to re-soldier a wire back to the board. Also, I don't recommend you mess with the screen in any way (it can be finicky and start acting weird) and be careful with that flimsy yellow ribbon cable. I had a scare with that, but managed to get it working again. Best of luck!
v3. Black button, removable top ring, received nov 15th
Well the repair went well, its solid as as rock with my modifications. . I was shocked when I opened t up. Little different than previous versions. One step forward one step back. There is no retaining ring! But they do have the full half tube support. It's only held in place by a little bit of glue. I mean a little bit. Never was going to last. Just sitting in my cupholder in front of my truck heater may have weakened the glue. I was bottoming out on the negative wire . They. Definitely a screwed up leaving the retainer out. I. HavE 12 pics. I may start a new thread with all those..
Its possible they ran a production run or a course of them with out the retainer by accident, or it was assembled Accidentally with out it or it was done purposely, who knows. It appears to be done purposely. Well sigelei that was a major fail. Either way.
Well the repair went well, its solid as as rock with my modifications. . I was shocked when I opened t up. Little different than previous versions. One step forward one step back. There is no retaining ring! But they do have the full half tube support. It's only held in place by a little bit of glue. I mean a little bit. Never was going to last. Just sitting in my cupholder in front of my truck heater may have weakened the glue. I was bottoming out on the negative wire . They. Definitely a screwed up leaving the retainer out. I. HavE 12 pics. I may start a new thread with all those..
Its possible they ran a production run or a course of them with out the retainer by accident, or it was assembled Accidentally with out it or it was done purposely, who knows. It appears to be done purposely. Well sigelei that was a major fail. Either way.
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This is what I saw when I pulled it out, no retaining ring to hold it at all. Just the glue spot.
See glue spot
Screen side
The negative wire there is what it bottomed out on when the board pushed up.
See glue spot
Screen side
The negative wire there is what it bottomed out on when the board pushed up.
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