Sigelei Zmax V3 and V5 Telescopic: User's Group

[ch1naski]

Right. That switch should be handling only a very low current

Curt.

 

[JeremyR]

JeremyR, now that you've had your new version V3 apart a few times, what method do you find works best to remove the top cap? I bring this up because if/when I open mine I don't want to warp the removable threaded collar. Did you just put the body in a vice and rock the top cap off of it like most of us have done in the past with the old version? If so, how well did your removable collar hold up to the stress? Any lessons learned on what we should avoid or be especially cautious of?
Thanks ahead of time for any tips!

Nope just bare hands. The key was the stainless oddesyuss. Its indestructible. its pin is adjusted so it screws down tight/ flush on the top of 510. Just grab it and the body, with the tubes off, bend it like breaking a stick in half. One side pops a little flip it do other side, work it till you can get something in to pry each side up. The stainless doesn't marr easily at all. It doesn't take much prying force at all from this point. Keeps you from ripping it out by pulling.

You could use a sacrificial ego device. You will have to use One anyway to hold onto. Or just by an oddy clone & flush mount it. awesome device with many uses.

No the collar threads are weak! Leave it off During break down and assembly I inadvertently tweaked it too much, the fix - pinched it down slightly with needle nose, in 2 places, and it screws tight Now. Better than new and it will work better as an airflow controller. It was a little loose from the factory. If they put heavier threads there it may be better For air flow control from the factory.

 

[JeremyR]

A switch with a higher amp rating may be what is needed. From the photo I see what looks to be pitting or cratering in the center of the dome contact. This is likely caused by arcing at the contact rather than physical wear from switch contact.

Arcing would probably be due to poor contact. Which is when it jumps to menus and misfires. Arcs a couple times sending multiple contacts.

My thought is - is it arcing because of the angle. ? One side touches the tip and arcs across the other side. Or the angle isn't pushing the button down enough in the middle causing it not to stay snapped....

Misfiring is definitely not good for it then.

 

[fairmana]

A new photo isn't needed. The pitting is pretty obvious in the photo you posted. You replaced the switch on an older model V3, right?

Yeah, I replaced the switch on the first V3 I bought from Vaporheads.net the 22nd of April, about the same time you guys did, but different vendor. It was $48.99 because it was a "scratch and dent" due to the screen alignment being off by 2mm, which I didn't care about much. I fixed that when I had it apart to fix the button.

 

[fairmana]

Nope just bare hands. The key was the stainless oddesyuss. Its indestructible. its pin is adjusted so it screws down tight/ flush on the top of 510. Just grab it and the body, with the tubes off, bend it like breaking a stick in half. One side pops a little flip it do other side, work it till you can get something in to pry each side up. The stainless doesn't marr easily at all. It doesn't take much prying force at all from this point. Keeps you from ripping it out by pulling.

You could use a sacrificial ego device. You will have to use One anyway to hold onto. Or just by an oddy clone & flush mount it. awesome device with many uses.

No the collar threads are weak! Leave it off During break down and assembly I inadvertently tweaked it too much, the fix - pinched it down slightly with needle nose, in 2 places, and it screws tight Now. Better than new and it will work better as an airflow controller. It was a little loose from the factory. If they put heavier threads there it may be better For air flow control from the factory.

Thanks for the info!

 

[fairmana]

My new production V3 came from 101 Vape. It was packaged in a white box that says Sigelei on the side and has the CE mark on the end of the box. The Sigelei itself has no logos. Yes, the brass center pin in the 510 connector is smaller in diameter than the brass center pin on my older Sigelei purchased in April. Keep in mind that the entire 510/eGo connection assembly was re-engineered for the removable top cap. While the new eGo threading is stainless steel, the older is brass. The 510 threading on both are SS. The diameter of the 510 center pin top should not matter. It's still wider than the contact area on 510 center posts found on atomizing devices.

I don't think the boxing materials matter much. That is a matter of choice when orders are made to Sigelei. I have seen the Sigelei V3 and V5 with the Sigelei and CE logos on photos from European websites and video reviews. This may be yet another variation in production runs.

I was just pointing out the differences and putting it out there on the forum since there has been some discussion on the different variations that have been appearing. I doubt the box is significant, but I decided to put it out there on the slim chance that there is a variation that comes in that particular box. I thought the info could be added to what we already know about the different V3's that are showing up and starting to see use. Who knows? It might come in handy later on...

I realize I bellyache on occasion about having to replace the switch on my older V3, but I really do enjoy the heck out of both of my Sigelei Zmax's and they are both my #1 and backup PV's. I'm also very satisfied to see that Sigelei is still manufacturing them as well as putting forth some effort to work out the bugs as well.

 

[yzer]

Being able to see three production variants of Sigelei V3 Telescopes is a kick. I enjoy your posts. My white box from 101 Vapes is exactly like yours.

 

[ch1naski]

As is mine.


Curt.

 

[BecknCO]

Hey guys,

I just bought a v5 full kit (batteries, charger, and CE4) from goodejuice for about $71 after a coupon, and I'm pretty excited since it'll be my first mod. I've read most of this thread, and I gather that I need to get some noalox post haste! I'm just not sure exactly where to put it - just on the very bottom?

I sure hope I don't have any button issues, but I giuess this is the thread to look in if I do. Thanks for all the great info here, and sorry if went a little off the current topic.

Brian

 

[ch1naski]

Hey Brian. Sounds like you got a pretty good deal.
Shake the noalox container before you use it. Apply small amounts to all the female threads except the 510 and ego threads.


Curt.

 

[BecknCO]

Thanks Curt! I added that bit to a doc where I saved yzer's breakin tips.

PS> GJ20FT gets you 20% off at Goodejuice and they have both the V3 and V5 (looks like full kits only, and first time customers only too)

 

[ch1naski]

Thanks Curt! I added that bit to a doc where I saved yzer's breakin tips.

PS> GJ20FT gets you 20% off at Goodejuice and they have both the V3 and V5 (looks like full kits only, and first time customers only too)

That would be a good deal to get my mother for Xmas. Thanks


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[yzer]

Welcome to the group, BecknCO! I think you are our first mile-high vaper here.

 

[vapnstuff]

I just received my Zmax from Desert Vapes and it appears to be the same as fairmana got in post #836 ... same markings and the button is almost like a translucent black. If you look at it dead on, it's black but if from an angle, you can see the plastic is clear. I'm wondering if this is an improved switch. Also, according to Sigelei's website, it states that #5 on the menu "(adjust) resistance ,power,battery voltage" which I thought meant it could show the resistance of the atomizer ... mine only has option of Power or Voltage. Is that normal? I thought it was supposed to show resistance but maybe I was looking at the specs for the Smoktech Zmax. Other than that, it seems to be a pretty beefy unit.

 

[yzer]

I just received my Zmax from Desert Vapes and it appears to be the same as fairmana got in post #836 ... same markings and the button is almost like a translucent black. If you look at it dead on, it's black but if from an angle, you can see the plastic is clear. I'm wondering if this is an improved switch. Also, according to Sigelei's website, it states that #5 on the menu "(adjust) resistance ,power,battery voltage" which I thought meant it could show the resistance of the atomizer ... mine only has option of Power or Voltage. Is that normal? I thought it was supposed to show resistance but maybe I was looking at the specs for the Smoktech Zmax. Other than that, it seems to be a pretty beefy unit.

Do you have a V3 or V5?

 

[yzer]

Menu Item #5 in both V3 and V5 is LCD Display
-In V3 Menu item #5 has three choices: Battery/Voltage/Resistance
-In V5 Menu Item #5 has three choices: Voltage/Time/Resistance

Menu Item #7 in both V3 and V5 is Power Voltage
-Both V3 and V5 offer the same two choices: Power (variable wattage) or Voltage (variable voltage)

 

[BecknCO]

Welcome to the group, BecknCO! I think you are our first mile-high vaper here.

Thanks yzer! I'm pretty stoked - should have the v5 kit tomorrow along with an itaste vv3. Then again, we all know how usps is right about now -_-

Btw - thanks for starting this thread and all the information you've shared -- learned a lot so far

 

[vapnstuff]

Menu Item #5 in both V3 and V5 is LCD Display
-In V3 Menu item #5 has three choices: Battery/Voltage/Resistance
-In V5 Menu Item #5 has three choices: Voltage/Time/Resistance

Menu Item #7 in both V3 and V5 is Power Voltage
-Both V3 and V5 offer the same two choices: Power (variable wattage) or Voltage (variable voltage)

Okay, I'm putting down my Zmax V3 until I can RTFM or at least learn how to count. I think the excitement of getting my first Zmax caused a short circuit in my logic system leading to a condition of stupiditis (hopefully temporary). It's amazing how much better things work when following directions but, hey, I'm a guy ... nuff said. Thanks for your help yzer. I appreciate it.

 

[fairmana]

As some of you are already aware, I own an older V3. However I recently bought two more V3's. I should clarify and say I bought one for myself from 101 Vapes and then decided to buy another for a family member after the fact (X-mas gift). Since 101 Vapes was sold out, I bought the 2nd one from Desert Vapes. Strangely enough, the two "newer" V3's were not identical and I thought it might be interesting to share the different characteristics between them with everyone on the forum.

To make it easier to refer to each of these V3's, I'll call the one from "101 Vapes" #1 and the one from "Desert Vapes" #2.

For starters, I was thankful that both arrived with the removable cap (I was worried about not getting that feature when I ordered them). The both have the same basic configuration regarding length, width, and heft and each came with the additional battery cap. The menu's in both are the same as far as I could tell (no scrolling "resistance" at least). The buttons look the same from the outside as best I can tell, and they both "feel" the same when pressed.

One thing I noticed about #2 was that it came in a slightly smaller black box than the white box that #1 came in. The black packaging had an area on the end where they could "check a box" and identify which version was inside, which I found interesting. It listed V2 through V5, as well as a possible check box for a MINI Zmax. Mine had the V3 box checked obviously. On the opposite end it had a sticker identifying it as a "Zmax V3 Flat Head Stainless". None of this stuff was on the white box that #1 came with.

Once I removed #2 from the packaging, I noticed it had some distinct outer markings on the tube. It has a "Sigelei" logo directly under the button, and has a "CE" logo down on the battery cap along with a tiny image of a trash can with an "X" through it (which I assume means don't throw the battery in the trash/dispose of properly). The CE logo (upon researching the internet) identifies it as complying with the safety requirements established by the European Union. I'm not sure if that means I got a V3 intended for sale in Europe, but I can't say I care much about that. They may just be making them this way from now on "in case" they are sold there. I don't like these logo's on the PV much, but that's just me and is probably because I'm not accustomed to seeing them on there.

Another distinction that I'm not sure how I noticed, was the size of the positive contact inside the head. When comparing the new versions to my original V3, both of the new ones are smaller. #1 has the smallest area of contact, while #2 is somewhere in between. I can only assume that making them smaller than the original V3 was to reduce the chance of shorting between pos/neg with different tanks, cartos, etc.

I took some pics shown below. Any comments welcome!

View attachment 285230View attachment 285231View attachment 285232

I wanted to add another significant difference between the V3 variants above that I only just discovered last night (vapnstuff, I'm hoping you can verify this on the one you just got).

So the V3 from Desert Vapes with the "Sigelei" logo on it (2nd image above) was a Christmas gift for a friend that his wife asked me to order for him since she doesn't know much about these. Last night while we were over at his house, his wife decided to give it to him early (he has been using Ego-C batteries with a small tank on top and has been itching to graduate to a mod). Needless to say, he was quite happy, and I took the opportunity to put Noalox on his threads, show him how to use the menu, etc. I explained why it was important not to over-tighten the battery tube, and I was going to demonstrate how pushing on the bottom of the mod should still allow for a little slack in the threads against the spring tension; except that there wasn't any slack in the threads at all. I'm thinking to myself "surely I didn't over-tighten the tube, did I?".

So I double-checked myself and backed-off several turns on the tube and still no thread slack. Huh? Suddenly I realize these threads are completely different, and not comparable at all to my older V3 or the other new V3 I just bought from 101 Vapes two weeks ago. There is basically no slack in the threads along the length, nor can you move the tube slightly back and forth along the width (as if trying to snap a twig in half). I remembered when I was threading his outer tube onto the main body (no battery in it yet) that there were 1 or 2 spots where the threads seemed to catch/bind a little. I didn't think much of it at the time and I figured they were just minor imperfections in the threads that would work themselves out over time (which is still probably true). Now I realize the threads are significantly tighter tolerance than before, so it now makes sense.

I wish I had played around with it a bit more and examined the threads more closely, but my friend was salivating at the mouth to use his new mod, so I had to pass it over. A family member of mine has this variant in gift wrapping that I can't break into yet for obvious reasons, but that should give me more opportunity to play around with it later.

Anyway, I just wanted to share this significant new feature with everyone. I'm excited to hear what comes out of this and if the "black screen" issue and other problems caused by the loose threading are resolved for anyone owning this new variant.

 

[Dr. Apesacrappin]

I've been using my zmax v3 rounded top now for about a month I think. I love it. I've had a couple of hiccups with it but I think they were either atty or battery dependent.
Some time ago the button stopped responding unless I pressed it harder than usual but then a few minutes later the battery ran out. Another few times it got very confused about what resistance my coil was. I was using a protank 3 dual coil which uses 2 x 4ohm coils so should read as 2ohm. I think one of the coils became detached as it went through various resistances, highest being 4 and lowest being 2 but mostly around 3, and eventually said short and then low level (battery out).

Now I'm using a mix of protank 2 mini, davide clearomiser and gs-h2's.

I gave mine a carbon fiber wrap from j wraps (which didn't fit until I adjusted it) and now with an 18350 in it people have mistaken it for a provari.

My only gripes are that it is heavy and will not run anything lower than 1.3-1.5ish ohms so my Kraken and Nimbus are still firmly attached yet taking turns on my Bagua (which is not heavy, even with its kick).

My threads do have some give in them and spin freely, which is nice when changing battery size.

I use flat top sibeile and the sigelei batteries that came with it. Unprotected and safe chemistry Li-Mn. No problems yet.