Sigelei Zmax V3 and V5 Telescopic: User's Group

[vapnstuff]

I wanted to add another significant difference between the V3 variants above that I only just discovered last night (vapnstuff, I'm hoping you can verify this on the one you just got).

Figure 1 shows the 2 battery caps I got with my Zmax. The line I drew shows how far I need to tighten the telescope to eliminate any play in the tube. The tube is about even with the threading on one end and the end of the battery on the other.



When I use the small cap, I have to tighten the tube to the point of totally compressing the spring to eliminate any wiggle and I'm not sure that's good.

If you look at #2, you can see 3 grooves still showing but in #3, when I use the bigger cap, I have to tighten the tube almost to the 3rd groove in order to eliminate wiggle.

So, short answer, mine has play in it; hopefully the Noalox will prevent any other issues.

One other nice improvement though is that the head unscrews very easily but those threads were kind of gritty until I put Noalox on them as well.

 

[JeremyR]

It is not recommended to tighten that much. You are completely compressing the spring. You will push the internals loose and cause firing problems. The play in the threads is how they were made. The battery should not extend out of the tube more than an 1/8 inch before you put the battery cap on.

The second pic is where you want it with large battery cap.

It sounds like there's a new revision out where the threads are tighter.

 

[yzer]

I agree with JeremyR. Do not overtighten the battery spring and tube with batteries larger than 18350. Doing so can lead to premature failure of the Sigelei. A flat spring is way too far compressed. Don't tighten the spring much past 1/2 of the uncompressed length of the spring. The telescopic tube will not wiggle when you pick up the Sigelei or while you press the button with the spring 1/2 compressed. Sure, you can wiggle the tube if you try, but do you normally do this while operating the Sigelei? If you can't visualize what 1/2 spring compression would be by looking at the cap and spring and how far it's going into the tube when screwed onto a battery try this...

Sigelei Zmax Telescopic battery tube adjustment

Flat top or button top, doesn't matter with these instructions.

-For 18350 battery. Using the tall or short battery caps screw down the telescopic tube to the shortest length. Screw down the battery cap all the way.

-For 18490, 18500 and 18650 batteries using the tall (15mm) battery cap. Place the battery into position in the tube and adjust the tube length until only 1/16" to 1/8" of the battery extends past the end of the tube. Tighten the tall cap all of the way down.

-For 18490, 18500 and 18650 batteries with the short (10mm) battery cap. Place the battery into position in the tube and adjust the tube length so that the base of the battery is 1/8" to 3/16" below the end of the tube. Tighten the cap all of the way down.

Keep in mind that the battery springs found in both the tall battery cap and the short battery cap are the same size. They are identical springs. For all batteries longer than 18350 the goal is compress the spring about 1/2 of its relaxed length regardless of the cap size. The short cap will give you the shortest overall length for the Sigelei with a 18350 battery inside. For 18490, 18500 and 18650 batteries the overall length of the Sigelei for each battery size will be the exactly the same when using either the tall or short battery caps so long as the spring is 1/2 compressed. The only advantage to using one cap or another at sizes above 18350 is the tall cap will be much easier to screw on than the short cap. It may be necessary to use the tall cap with 2x18350 but I neither do or recommend using stacked batteries.

I have the same degree of thread slop in both my new and older Sigelei V3s. Naturally, there is much less thread slop when the tube is shortest and the most slop when fully extended. Another benefit of using Noalox is a reduction in thread slop. Neither one of my Telescopics will show tube wiggle during use. If I want to sure I can grab the top and bottom sections to make the tube wiggle but I don't do this when actually using the Sigelei.

Typical lengths I get on Sigelei V3 Telescopic with different batteries. Just an estimate depending on how tight I compress the spring.

18350: 100mm with short cap, 105mm with long cap.
18490: 111-114mm with either cap, spring 1/2 compressed.
18500: 112-115mm with either cap, spring 1/2 compressed.
18650: 127-130mm with either cap, spring 1/2 compressed.

 

[BecknCO]

Well, I finally got my V5 and I noaloxed the crap out of it. I'm finally able to taste my juices! I couldn't believe that one of my dripping attys was 3ohms! No wonder I couldn't taste a damn thing with it on my egos lol.

Just one problem -- The shorter battery cap won't screw in flush and I think the threads are damaged. It screws in with about 2mm of thread left on the tube end that has one line, and shows about double or more of that on the tube side with the three lines. The taller battery cap screws in flush on both ends, so I guess that's the one to use. It's not a huge deal, and I know no mod will be perfect, but it would be nice to be able to use both battery caps. Any thoughts?

Oh, and I definitely heard that rattlesnake thing everyone talks about on a few different attys but the flavor is so much better than my 3.2v joye ego's who cares.

One other question - should I use an ego to 510 connector to screw my tops on to save the 510 threads on the zmax, or is that dumb? If so, should I noalox those too?

 

[JeremyR]

The 510 threads are as strong as they come. Solid stainless steel. There is no risk of damaging them.

 

[yzer]

Just one problem -- The shorter battery cap won't screw in flush and I think the threads are damaged. It screws in with about 2mm of thread left on the tube end that has one line, and shows about double or more of that on the tube side with the three lines. The taller battery cap screws in flush on both ends, so I guess that's the one to use. It's not a huge deal, and I know no mod will be perfect, but it would be nice to be able to use both battery caps. Any thoughts?

The short battery cap is useful if you want to use the Sigelei at it's shortest overall length with a single 18350 battery. Otherwise, the tall cap works just as well and is easier to screw off and on. If the short cap has a machining defect contact the vendor for replacement under warranty. You should be able to screw the short cap down fully into the tube with no gap showing between the two.

 

[vapnstuff]

If you take the telescope tube off, will the shorter cap screw in? Mine was really hard to get lined up right, actually both caps, so I screwed the cap into the tube then screwed the tube on. (easier when my arthritis kicks in) With the larger cap, it lines up just past the threads on the body ... right at 128-129 mm like yzer suggested.

 

[yzer]

If you take the telescope tube off, will the shorter cap screw in? Mine was really hard to get lined up right, actually both caps, so I screwed the cap into the tube then screwed the tube on. (easier when my arthritis kicks in) With the larger cap, it lines up just past the threads on the body ... right at 128-129 mm like yzer suggested.

Sure, you can do it that way. I sympathize with the difficulties you have in screwing on these battery caps with arthritic hands. It's tough enough for me to screw on the short cap without arthritis. The method you use is a good work-around and I see why you want to use the markings on the tube, now.

 

[JeremyR]

I recommend to check the board for movement first thing when you receive it. Pushing on the positive post lightly to see how much it moves. Also the alignment of the button. This is best done shining a small light, Iphone flashlight is perfect, directly into the clear button and looking in through the screen at the internal button switch and how it lines up with the clear button. This gives you a baseline to compare to into the future and can tell you if you have a problem from the beginning.

It does sound like sigelie is perfecting this mod as they go along; which is great.

 

[ch1naski]

My internal button is offset upwards from the external clear button, but I'm pretty sure it's from over- tightening the batteries in the past. I am seriously thinking about popping the mod open to realign everything. And maybe secure it a bit better.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[BecknCO]

Thanks for the tips with the V5, fellas . Interesting it just says ZMAX V5 on the side without any other logos. I can see that the clear button is slightly off center from the internal black button, but is still completely inside the circumference of the black button with no overhang (looking from the top down (where the toppers go) it is slightly more on the right side than left -- maybe 1mm or less). I also tried to gently push on the internal positive contact and there was no screen movement at all. I can see that there are two small amber colored glue points on the inside that seem to be securing everything ok.

I will also contact Nick at GoodeJuice to see about a new short battery cap. You can clearly see that the threads are rough/damaged towards the end with the vent holes. He is an authorized sigelei dealer, so hopefully it won't be a problem. I'll probably always just use the taller cap regardless, but it would be nice to have both in good working order in case I sell it sometime down the line.

The threads on the top cap are also a little catchy sometimes, and I could see how they could be ruined with some force. I noaloxed that too and it's helped a little. I doubt I'll take it off much, and at least half the time it screws on and off like butter. I'm not expecting perfection from something mass produced out of China, and for the money, I'm very happy with my new toy

 

[vapnstuff]

I will also contact Nick at GoodeJuice to see about a new short battery cap. You can clearly see that the threads are rough/damaged towards the end with the vent holes. He is an authorized sigelei dealer, so hopefully it won't be a problem. I'll probably always just use the taller cap regardless, but it would be nice to have both in good working order in case I sell it sometime down the line.

The threads on the top cap are also a little catchy sometimes, and I could see how they could be ruined with some force. I noaloxed that too and it's helped a little. I doubt I'll take it off much, and at least half the time it screws on and off like butter. I'm not expecting perfection from something mass produced out of China, and for the money, I'm very happy with my new toy

I agree with the taller cap; it's easier to put on and adjust the tube. My threads were a little catchy as well but after Noalox and a few on/off cycles, they seem to have gotten rid of the burrs.

Now that I've actually played with one, I'm satisfied with the value/price point ratio. Yeah, better quality would be nice but at least this is SS ... and my screen is straight. Hopefully, no button problems down the road.

 

[JeremyR]

My internal button is offset upwards from the external clear button, but I'm pretty sure it's from over- tightening the batteries in the past. I am seriously thinking about popping the mod open to realign everything. And maybe secure it a bit better.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

The button is offset from the factory. Due to the size of the circuit board, some may be cut shorter but mine is not. If your not having problems no need for concern. You can tell if your board is loose by inserting battery look in the screen at a shiny part and apply light pressure to the battery. You will see the internals move if its loose. Again if your not having problems no need to worry.

 

[yzer]

 

[BecknCO]

I'm really loving the size of the zmax and zero tube wiggle in 18350 mode. What are the best and highest mah 18350's that I can get? So far, I see that efest, panasonic, and aw are recommended, but they are only 800mah at best like the sigelei branded ones that came with the kit. I'm sure these kit batteries aren't the best, but I don't have any other point of reference. What do you suggest?

 

[ch1naski]

AW are always a good buy for the money. But being 18350, you aren't going to see a huge difference. As battery size increases ,the mAh can also take a substantial increase.

Curt.

 

[BecknCO]

Thanks Curt. I might look into 18490/500's for a nice compromise between longevity and thread slop. Merry Christmas to everyone!

 

[ch1naski]

Merry Xmas!

Curt.

 

[Dac311]

You can get icr 18350's that are 1200 mah. But they are only sold as protected and the zmax will trigger the protection circuit in them and you probably won't be able to use them. You really should use imr as they handle the higher drain better.

 

[Starlyte2]

The first Zmax V3 I recieved had a problem with the button, so they sent me another. It changed the wattage on its own...very unpleasant.
The new one works well, but I got a Vamo V5, and, honestly, I use it more often than the Zmax. I'll get used to the Zmax I suppose, but I thought the 1 button menu would be more to my liking, but I'm not so sure now.