Sigelei Zmax V3 and V5 Telescopic: User's Group
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For the most part, he did. It can be found at Sigelei Zmax V3 Telescopic (flat top or other) reports: one week later. although, it should be called Sigelei Zmax V3 Telescopic: Everything you wanted to know about the Sigelei Zmax and some things you didn't know you wanted to know by Yzer and friends
Hey guys, just an update the beyondvape spire software version is..
Si v1.8
If, that's a big if, you can actually send it back 3 times in one year it may be worth it....
Si v1.8
If, that's a big if, you can actually send it back 3 times in one year it may be worth it....
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Okay, these are the 4 I have for now. I'm done ... I think. 
Also, battery caps are interchangeable as are the tops in case you want to mix em up.
One thing I did notice, and I don't remember if I said it before, but there is a noticable difference in weight (not much) and feel (which is odd) between the mini and V3 collapsed. The mini just feels more balanced?
Also, battery caps are interchangeable as are the tops in case you want to mix em up.
One thing I did notice, and I don't remember if I said it before, but there is a noticable difference in weight (not much) and feel (which is odd) between the mini and V3 collapsed. The mini just feels more balanced?
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The button on the newer version V3 that I purchased just before Christmas is starting to misfire now. I had hoped that this one would be different from my older V3 that I had to replace the switch in. I'm noticing it either doesn't fire or I'm taking a draw and notice that I'm in the menu (same symptoms). Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. Looks like another button replacement on this one in the near future. 
I'm gonna see if I can fix mine somehow fairmana. Will post up pics. But may need to colabo with you on the replacement if it doesn't fix it. I would like to go with the smaller sized switch, like ego, if its possible. Heck I could alway take on off my old egos and solder it on maybe.
I forgot to post this... Since I was having issues with top popping loose when it was dropped. I center punched it quite awaile ago and it's holding tight.. Actually my son was using it as a hammer, the Oddy rba as the hammer head, and for the first time it started to come loose but did not fall out.
This definitely works great if you have an issue with it popping loose when you drop it.
I forgot to post this... Since I was having issues with top popping loose when it was dropped. I center punched it quite awaile ago and it's holding tight.. Actually my son was using it as a hammer, the Oddy rba as the hammer head, and for the first time it started to come loose but did not fall out.
This definitely works great if you have an issue with it popping loose when you drop it.
Great idea with the center punch to tighten the threads back up JeremyR. 
As far as a replacement "tactile" switch goes, I don't think that reducing the size of the switch is going to have any effect on how well it functions. As a matter of fact, I'm afraid that if you try to reduce the size, it may actually be more critical that you press the outer button in the center to make sure the switch below is pressed properly and that it fires. My suggestion is that if you plan to replace the original switch with a new one, use a switch that is basically the same size and that the legs that need to be soldered are in the correct spots. Having to solder a replacement switch to the board when the solder pads on the board do not match the legs of the switch will be difficult if not impossible. That's why when I purchased a replacement, I made sure to measure the distance between the legs on the original switch to ensure that the replacement would be a good fit for soldering.
Another aspect to take into account is the height of the switch. If the replacement switch is too tall, the board won't fit in the tube. If it's too short, your outer plastic button will flop around. The replacement switch I purchased on Digikey had the right dimensions for soldering the legs, but the height was a little short (P/N below). I used hot glue to build up the underside of the outer plastic switch and then cut the excess off flat with a razor blade so it would meet the replacement switch flush and with minimal wobble (if any).
The measurements of the solder contact spacing for the soldering pads are 5mm between the legs. The switch body dimensions are 12mm long x 12mm wide and 5mm tall. The switch is a Single Pole, Single Throw (SPST) "tactile" switch. You can do a search on Digikey or whatever electronics vendor website you prefer for a switch that matches these dimensions and it should work fine.
If you decide to search the web for a replacement, when looking at switch characteristics you may also want to take a look at the "durability" or "duty cycle" (number of button presses its lifespan is rated for) as well as if the switch is sealed or not to prevent internal contamination from e-juice, etc. The one I bought on Digikey is part number 450-2051-1-ND. That switch's datasheet reported the durability to 1,000,000 cycles (key presses). It was also the only button that was "sealed" against foreign contamination with dimensions that were close to the original switch. There may be other tactile switches for sale on Digikey since I last did a search that are better. The only thing about the above button that may not be ideal is that it isn't as "clicky" as the original switch was and it's slightly easier to press. I haven't had any problems with it, but others may have trouble getting used to the feel of it. Based on how they put it in their pocket, etc. it may fire accidentally more easily than the original switch. For me, it gives a solid "thunk" for feedback when I press it so I know it's pressed. I've used it in two different Sigelei V3's as well as a Vamo V3 with no issues and I expect they will work as long as the PV holds together.
My original write-up on how to replace the switch appears earlier in this thread here if anyone is interested.
As far as a replacement "tactile" switch goes, I don't think that reducing the size of the switch is going to have any effect on how well it functions. As a matter of fact, I'm afraid that if you try to reduce the size, it may actually be more critical that you press the outer button in the center to make sure the switch below is pressed properly and that it fires. My suggestion is that if you plan to replace the original switch with a new one, use a switch that is basically the same size and that the legs that need to be soldered are in the correct spots. Having to solder a replacement switch to the board when the solder pads on the board do not match the legs of the switch will be difficult if not impossible. That's why when I purchased a replacement, I made sure to measure the distance between the legs on the original switch to ensure that the replacement would be a good fit for soldering.
Another aspect to take into account is the height of the switch. If the replacement switch is too tall, the board won't fit in the tube. If it's too short, your outer plastic button will flop around. The replacement switch I purchased on Digikey had the right dimensions for soldering the legs, but the height was a little short (P/N below). I used hot glue to build up the underside of the outer plastic switch and then cut the excess off flat with a razor blade so it would meet the replacement switch flush and with minimal wobble (if any).
The measurements of the solder contact spacing for the soldering pads are 5mm between the legs. The switch body dimensions are 12mm long x 12mm wide and 5mm tall. The switch is a Single Pole, Single Throw (SPST) "tactile" switch. You can do a search on Digikey or whatever electronics vendor website you prefer for a switch that matches these dimensions and it should work fine.
If you decide to search the web for a replacement, when looking at switch characteristics you may also want to take a look at the "durability" or "duty cycle" (number of button presses its lifespan is rated for) as well as if the switch is sealed or not to prevent internal contamination from e-juice, etc. The one I bought on Digikey is part number 450-2051-1-ND. That switch's datasheet reported the durability to 1,000,000 cycles (key presses). It was also the only button that was "sealed" against foreign contamination with dimensions that were close to the original switch. There may be other tactile switches for sale on Digikey since I last did a search that are better. The only thing about the above button that may not be ideal is that it isn't as "clicky" as the original switch was and it's slightly easier to press. I haven't had any problems with it, but others may have trouble getting used to the feel of it. Based on how they put it in their pocket, etc. it may fire accidentally more easily than the original switch. For me, it gives a solid "thunk" for feedback when I press it so I know it's pressed. I've used it in two different Sigelei V3's as well as a Vamo V3 with no issues and I expect they will work as long as the PV holds together.
My original write-up on how to replace the switch appears earlier in this thread here if anyone is interested.
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The button on the newer version V3 that I purchased just before Christmas is starting to misfire now. I had hoped that this one would be different from my older V3 that I had to replace the switch in. I'm noticing it either doesn't fire or I'm taking a draw and notice that I'm in the menu (same symptoms). Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. Looks like another button replacement on this one in the near future.
I know that story so well
and will be taking one of my 2 to bits to see if it's repairable.It pisses me of when I'm vaping at 5 watts and it blows my head of with a 12 watt blast. Or just turns itself off.
Maybe, as Sigelei haven't fixed it, it's a hang up you have to live with...
BUT I'm sure it comes from that maudit plastic button, and the circuit maybe being badly attatched. I've moved it with my pinky, and it moves quite a bit.
As I've 2 of these lovely devices, apart from their switch hzssles, they're lovely IMO, I can fiddle with the worst one and see what happens.
Fed up with watts jumping around and it cutting out for the good.
A bit of DIYing can't hurt
...can it ???
At the price quoted by Digikey I'm going to buy a couple of these just have them around in my vaping supply box. When I get some time I'll cruise the catalogs available at Digikey. If I find another part candidate that looks a little taller I'll ask you about it first. I get occasional misfires on the 11 month-old V3 but at this point they are rare enough that repair isn't needed. I have equipment out on the workbench to do the job. I'd much rather install a one-megaclick switch for less than $3.00 than buy a Provari. Thanks for the links! I've bookmarked them.Great idea with the center punch to tighten the threads back up JeremyR.
As far as a replacement "tactile" switch goes, I don't think that reducing the size of the switch is going to have any effect on how well it functions. As a matter of fact, I'm afraid that if you try to reduce the size, it may actually be more critical that you press the outer button in the center to make sure the switch below is pressed properly and that it fires. My suggestion is that if you plan to replace the original switch with a new one, use a switch that is basically the same size and that the legs that need to be soldered are in the correct spots. Having to solder a replacement switch to the board when the solder pads on the board do not match the legs of the switch will be difficult if not impossible. That's why when I purchased a replacement, I made sure to measure the distance between the legs on the original switch to ensure that the replacement would be a good fit for soldering.
Another aspect to take into account is the height of the switch. If the replacement switch is too tall, the board won't fit in the tube. If it's too short, your outer plastic button will flop around. The replacement switch I purchased on Digikey had the right dimensions for soldering the legs, but the height was a little short (P/N below). I used hot glue to build up the underside of the outer plastic switch and then cut the excess off flat with a razor blade so it would meet the replacement switch flush and with minimal wobble (if any).
The measurements of the solder contact spacing for the soldering pads are 5mm between the legs. The switch body dimensions are 12mm long x 12mm wide and 5mm tall. The switch is a Single Pole, Single Throw (SPST) "tactile" switch. You can do a search on Digikey or whatever electronics vendor website you prefer for a switch that matches these dimensions and it should work fine.
If you decide to search the web for a replacement, when looking at switch characteristics you may also want to take a look at the "durability" or "duty cycle" (number of button presses its lifespan is rated for) as well as if the switch is sealed or not to prevent internal contamination from e-juice, etc. The one I bought on Digikey is part number 450-2051-1-ND. That switch's datasheet reported the durability to 1,000,000 cycles (key presses). It was also the only button that was "sealed" against foreign contamination with dimensions that were close to the original switch. There may be other tactile switches for sale on Digikey since I last did a search that are better. The only thing about the above button that may not be ideal is that it isn't as "clicky" as the original switch was and it's slightly easier to press. I haven't had any problems with it, but others may have trouble getting used to the feel of it. Based on how they put it in their pocket, etc. it may fire accidentally more easily than the original switch. For me, it gives a solid "thunk" for feedback when I press it so I know it's pressed. I've used it in two different Sigelei V3's as well as a Vamo V3 with no issues and I expect they will work as long as the PV holds together.
My original write-up on how to replace the switch appears earlier in this thread here if anyone is interested.
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At the price quoted by Digikey I'm going to buy a couple of these just have them around in my vaping supply box. When I get some time I'll cruise the catalogs available at Digikey. If I find another part candidate that looks a little taller I'll ask you about it first. I get occasional misfires on the 11 month-old V3 but at this point they are rare enough that repair isn't needed. I have equipment out on the workbench to do the job. I'd much rather install a one-megaclick switch for less than $3.00 than buy a Provari. Thanks for the links! I've bookmarked them.
Oh the lengths we go to to avoid buying a ProVari......(I'm not trying to start a debate. It's just funny how much monkeying is being done with the Sigelei to make it as "reliable as a ProVari...." Whatever)
Sure you are. I consider building coils way too much "monkeying" for my taste and use a carto tank instead. On the other hand I don't consider using replaceable batteries too much "monkeying." I don't have any problem with soldering a switch onto a board. That's a quick and long term upgrade in my book. Some monkeys are better at this sort of thing than others.
Actually I was not... I totally suck at soldering skills and if I attempted what you guys are doing, I'd ruin my mod for sure. If it were not for your's and others "monkeying" we wouldn't have the knowledge of the product that we have. And I appreciate the work you continue to do and have done.
All of us have our spots. I do rebuild simply because the flavor I get from a Kayfun is great, and if it goes bad, I can correct it. In my experience a carto is great until it isn't and you are pretty much stuck.
We all are chasing our unicorns. The great thing is that when we share our information in our chase, others benefit.
Thanks to the work you do, my Sigelei V3 has a much greater possibility of a long life than it would have if you had not done the work that you did.
Heck, I would have ruined it by now by "snugging" up my telescoping tube and wondered why my display is all cockeyed and my button doesn't work anymore.
Go ahead. List everything you don't like about the Sigelei. It may take you ten posts or more before that $200 you spent for an e-cig seems like a bargain.
Dude, I'm really not trying to start an argument here. If I had one negative thing to say about the Sigelei is that is appears better built than it is.
I don't mind the 33.3hz signal, I don't have a problem with the voltage or wattage range, I love the display. And I regularly use my Sigelei out and about when I feel like a tube mod instead of my MVP's.
What I don't like is that the unit looks and feels solid with it's stainless steel battery tube, and as evident by this thread, the internals are less than stellar, from the mounting bracket for the control board to the substandard firing button.
It's also a shame that people like you had to "discover" that over-tightening the unit would cause damage to the internals.
This entire thread is great information that you guys discovered the "hard way". I was simply chuckling at the lengths we go to to find satisfaction in our vaping experience and was showing you my appreciation for all the work you have done to help those of us prevent the pitfalls you discovered the hard way.
I apologize if it was not taken in the way intended.
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No problem. I just don't understand why people feel a need to compare a $40 APV to another that costs $160-200.
I agree.
It would be interesting to know if the Beyond vape actually upgraded the button underneath on the Spire. I was all set to buy one because I really thought it was sharp....That is until I saw the price. $100 for the tube only is a bit steep. Especially if they didn't do anything physically to the underlying control board.
Yeah, that's what I initially did, but I've already run out of them. I'm going to buy 2 or 3 more just to have on-hand. I searched Digikey again today, and the tallest button they have is 4.3mm which is .7mm too short. Building up the bottom of the outer button an extra 1mm (approximately) seems to do the trick for me and eliminates the wobble the button originally had. The other buttons I saw were not sealed nor did they have any "feedback" that was mentioned in the filter search criteria. The best any other button sported in terms of durability was 200,000 button presses. The one I've been using is 5x better than that and it's sealed to boot, so I'll be sticking with that one. They are about $2.60 each (cheap and definitely worth every penny IMO).
If you find a different vendor that sells a possible candidate for a replacement switch, I'd be more than happy to take a look and give you an additional opinion. Two heads are always better than one.
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I have a new, really odd problem.
I used my PT2 on the Sigelei for a few hours, then I moved that tank back to my MVP and it would not fire. The display says NON on the MVP. I would try it on an ego and same thing. Would not fire. This happens every time. I can't understand why that would happen. Change the head and it would start working on MVP again.
I don't want to use the Sigelei now if I can't move tanks back an fourth.
Anyone have any thoughts on this?
Thanks
I used my PT2 on the Sigelei for a few hours, then I moved that tank back to my MVP and it would not fire. The display says NON on the MVP. I would try it on an ego and same thing. Would not fire. This happens every time. I can't understand why that would happen. Change the head and it would start working on MVP again.
I don't want to use the Sigelei now if I can't move tanks back an fourth.
Anyone have any thoughts on this?
Thanks
The problem is with the MVP, the post is to low on the MVP, I had constant post problems with my MVP2's, hence why I moved away from them and got a sigelei zmax, the post is probably a little higher on the zmax, so when use the tank on the zmax it pushes the pin up a little, so then doesn't connect when swap to the MVP, you can pull the pin down a little on your tank, or move the post up on the MVP, but don't suggest messing with post on the MVP, because once you have, you will have to keep doing it.
The MVP has a deeper 510 connection than the Sigelei. As a result when you put your pro tank on your Sigelei, it tends to push up your pin in your Protank so that the next time you connect to your MVP, you get a Non signal.
The fix for this is either to get a 510 to 510 connector to plug into your MVP, or before putting on your protank on your mvp, grab the center pin of the protank and give it a gentle pull down.
There is a thread somewhere around here where people have pulled the pin on their protank head ever so slightly then tied thread around it to prevent it from being pushed up too far.
Another suggestion is to get an Ego Base from a Mini Protank 2 and use that as your Protank 2 base instead of the internal 510 connector.
Hope this helps.
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