Sigelei Zmax V3 and V5 Telescopic: User's Group

[ffwd4490]

Thanks Yzer, I went back and found it. Most helpful .

 

[fairmana]

The ten Omron tactile switches I ordered from Digi-Key on Friday morning arrived today on Monday evening, USPS First Class. Part of me wants to slap one these into a V3 tonight just for fun but my practical side is going to wait until I actually need to replace a switch. They go out to the workbench for storage for the time being.

I got my package yesterday as well. I've always been real happy with Digikey's quick delivery.

My Dad's V3 was still apart to allow the 510 sealant to dry, and it got a switch as soon as they arrived. It's going back together today. My buddy gave me his V3 yesterday to fix. It's suffering from a shifted board, and while I have open I'll be doing a few other things to it.

IMO, if anyone ever has to take theirs apart for any reason, there are 3 things they should seriously consider doing to extend the life of their Zmax:

1. Replace the switch with OMRON tactile switch part number B3W-4005 (Digikey part number SW976-ND). I personally would do this even if the stock switch is still working. This should extend the working life of the device well beyond what could be expected otherwise. I used a long-tipped soldering iron so that I could melt the solder on two legs at the same time. While melting the solder, gently apply pressure near the battery contact to lift the switch off the board with a small flat-head screwdriver (or similar). Do not lift hard with the screwdriver so you don't damage the solder pads on the circuit board. More info can be found here as well as here.

2. Insert a spacer (~2mm) under the stainless top cap to eliminate circuit board shift caused by pressure from the battery compartment. There are 2 methods that were previously posted in this thread (method 1, method 2).

3. Seal the underside of the 510 connector to eliminate the risk of e-juice leaking into the Zmax body. This is insurance against the plastic housing surrounding the center pin ever cracking in the future. After using silicone, I settled on using high-temp automotive RTV (form-a-gasket) since it dries like rubber and is flexible so that the positive wire can flex without breaking the seal. A thin coating on the entire inside surface of the center pin housing is all that should be necessary. As I mentioned previously, the plastic housing for the center pin (top-hat) can be unscrewed from below for better access and RTV can be applied with a small water color paint brush or similar. I'm sure there are several sealants that can be used successfully to accomplish the same thing (silicone, epoxy, etc.).

 

[AndriaD]

When your device reads "short" it's telling you that there is an abnormal condition that will allow too much current to flow from the positive pin on the device directly to ground. During normal operation, the device will sense the resistance of the atomizer and allow it to fire. However when it senses little to no resistance, it displays the "short" fault. No resistance would cause too much current to flow, since there is very little to "resist" it. A short condition would normally damage the device and/or the batteries very quickly due to the runaway heat caused by the high current flow. Luckily, the Zmax has internal protection that prevents it from being fired while the "short" fault exists, which prevents this sort of damage.

A short is most often an indication that there is a bad connection at the tank where something is making a conductive bridge from the center pin on the Zmax to the outer threads of the 510 connector. The Zmax will also display a "short" if the resistance of the atomizer is below the minimum allowed by the device (I think it's 1.2 ohms if I remember right).

This is interesting. I've been fooling around with different inner diameters with coils, and yesterday did one on a 3/32, and it looked terrific, my vv3 said the resistance was 2.6, so I thought, hunky dory, put the coil all together, and tried to use it, on the vv3, but it was acting weird. I got the topper off and put it back on, checked the resistance, and now it said "0.7" -- missing 2 ohms of resistance? Hmm. So I put it on the Sigelei and tried to check the resistance there... but when I pressed the button to see it, it said "low load." Took the thing off and back apart, and it looked like maybe one side of the coil was pressing against the interior of the head. I got it all neat and centered again, checked it agian, and it was back to 2.6. Weirdest thing I ever saw -- granted, I haven't yet seen much of this stuff at all.

Andria

 

[AndriaD]

Doesn't add any more height, but it is a true light saber now!!

Just trying to find options still to get rid of the gap I get on most 510 tanks. Wish there were different top rings to buy somewhere. Might just try a provari ring, even though I don't like the pressure fit set up.

I've just started unscrewing the top ring to rise up against the bottom of the topper.

When you're looking very closely at it, like this, you can see that the ring is unscrewed, but from any distance, you really can't tell, and it makes it look much neater, and probably supports the bottom of the topper better too. This cartotank is 19.4mm wide, and it nearly covers that flat part above the slight bevel perfectly. I'm thinking a 20mm wide topper would be just right. Of course the Kayfun I'm getting is 22mm, so it will have a gap because of the slight bevel. *sigh*

To get a PV that's *really* flat, I'm either going to have to go with a mech, or get an SVD after all, and pray hard that the button doesn't crap out on me in the first 3 months as so many seem to do.

Andria

 

[fairmana]

This is interesting. I've been fooling around with different inner diameters with coils, and yesterday did one on a 3/32, and it looked terrific, my vv3 said the resistance was 2.6, so I thought, hunky dory, put the coil all together, and tried to use it, on the vv3, but it was acting weird. I got the topper off and put it back on, checked the resistance, and now it said "0.7" -- missing 2 ohms of resistance? Hmm. So I put it on the Sigelei and tried to check the resistance there... but when I pressed the button to see it, it said "low load." Took the thing off and back apart, and it looked like maybe one side of the coil was pressing against the interior of the head. I got it all neat and centered again, checked it agian, and it was back to 2.6. Weirdest thing I ever saw -- granted, I haven't yet seen much of this stuff at all.

Andria

Andria, I suspect that the positive leg on the coil was barely touching the side of the atomizer housing (ground) and/or you had a bad connection at the terminations.

By the way, thanks for bringing up the "low load" fault. I guess if the atomizer is below 1.2 ohms, the Zmax will display "low load", not "short" as I previously posted. It's been so long since I've seen either fault, I couldn't remember. Those two faults are useful for troubleshooting because if it says "short" you know you basically have a "dead short" with no resistance (suspect a bent pin, etc.), whereas if it says "low load", you can start by suspecting a problem with the atomizer (below 1.2 ohms). There can certainly be exceptions, but at least it gives you a place to begin looking for your problem.

 

[fairmana]

Of course the Kayfun I'm getting is 22mm, so it will have a gap because of the slight bevel. *sigh*Andria

I screw my Zmax collar up against my Kayfun for added support and I think it looks fine. Sure, you can see the bevel on the collar, but that doesn't bother me and doesn't look unsightly IMO. I personally wouldn't switch to a mech or any other device on the basis of aesthetic appeal (flat top, etc), but that's just me. I'm happy with both of my V3's, I'm not ashamed to be seen in public with them, and they keep me off the analogs. I also enjoy having the freedom to adjust my vape quickly and easily, so a mech and I just wouldn't get along.

 

[MrsP0721]

Why is it that the Sigelei is the only mod that gives me the 'short' and 'low load' error with my Nautilus??? I don't have the same issues with my Vamos or my VV V3!

 

[MrsP0721]

I PMed Yzer and asked him: Hey, I got my Pink V3 in yesterday and it's a bit thicker than my other Sigeleis, it also has the attached ring at the top, is this just an older version or is it possible it's a clone? I know you said you haven't seen a clone yet, and if it were just that the top ring isn't detachable, I wouldn't be concerned, but the thickness is kinda throwing me off!

And he replied: Posting a photo would be helpful. A non-removable top cap is a good indicator of an older first generation V3. Check the firmware version number to make sure. All versions of V3 and V5 are 23mm in diameter.

So in response to that, I will post a pic (in a minute), in the meantime, how do I check the firmware version number?

 

[MrsP0721]

Here's the pics... The one I'm questioning is the pink one, the white one is a hair thicker b/c of the wrap that's on it.

 

[yzer]

Pictures are worth 1,000 words. There are ways to check authenticity of a Sigelei by using the display.

-After inserting a battery and putting on the battery cap the name "SIGELEI" appears on the Display and goes out. After five rapid clicks the Sigelei will boot up. The word "SIGELEI" appears on the screen again and goes out. This is followed by the words "System:ON" scrolling by. These are checks for authentic Sigelei electronics.

-Firmware check. Remove the battery for 5 seconds. Replace the battery and battery cap while holding the fire button down. Keep holding the fire button down. Depending on the firmware version you may see different information on the display. Keep holding the fire button down and different information will toggle on the screen. One of the displays will be the firmware version. this is what the firmware information looks like:

-SI V1.1 (first generation V3)
-SI V1.5a (second generation V3)
-SI V2.0a (all V5s to date)

Remove the battery cap and release the fire button. Install the battery again. You will have to go back to the menu and return all settings to the way you had them before. This firmware reboot returns all setting to the factory defaults.

 

[yzer]

One of those PVs appears much wider than 23mm. Without accurate measurement it's difficult to tell. From the photo of the battery caps it looks like you could fit a 22xxx battery into one of them. Can you switch these battery caps back and forth between the two?

 

[AndriaD]

I also enjoy having the freedom to adjust my vape quickly and easily, so a mech and I just wouldn't get along.

Yeah, I do that a lot myself, got so spoiled right off the bat with the vv3's.

I think maybe what I'm really looking for is something like a hybrid, but those all seem to be dripping attys. I suppose I might learn that at some point, but it just doesn't seem very convenient to me. A hybrid with a small tank would be great, but I don't know if there are any of those. But I sure love the look of all the hybrids I've seen, particularly the Valkyrie.

I still feel quite intimidated by the idea of no circuitry to protect me from the potential vagaries of the battery, and I really do use the variable feature pretty much constantly. So I guess anything mechanical just isn't in the cards for me, unless/until someone comes out with a hybrid something-or-other that uses an APV instead of a mech.

Andria

 

[MotherNatural]

I have the same one in blue, MrsP. Non-removable top cap and much chunkier than my other V3s. But it is a SI v1.5 and functions as the others. I bought it to use as a back-up when it was posted here about a month ago on clearance.

 

[yzer]

Here's the pics... The one I'm questioning is the pink one, the white one is a hair thicker b/c of the wrap that's on it.

These look authentic to me. You added the key chain rings? Lens distortion could be making one of the battery caps look wider. They should both be 23mm.

 

[MrsP0721]

One of those PVs appears much wider than 23mm. Without accurate measurement it's difficult to tell. From the photo of the battery caps it looks like you could fit a 22xxx battery into one of them. Can you switch these battery caps back and forth between the two?

Yes, I can use either battery caps, the one for the pink one is wider, but the opening is the same size. I can't find my measuring tape to measure but the pink one is quite a bit wider.

 

[yzer]

I have the same one in blue, MrsP. Non-removable top cap and much chunkier than my other V3s. But it is a SI v1.5 and functions as the others. I bought it to use as a back-up when it was posted here about a month ago on clearance.

Is that SI V1.5 or SI V1.5a? If it is SI V1.5 yours is the first to be reported.

 

[MrsP0721]

I have the same one in blue, MrsP. Non-removable top cap and much chunkier than my other V3s. But it is a SI v1.5 and functions as the others. I bought it to use as a back-up when it was posted here about a month ago on clearance.

Oh ok, thank you for letting me know! I'm going to try the tips Yzer said and report back.

 

[MotherNatural]

Just eyeballing it…end to end the colored one appears to be about 3mm larger.

 

[MotherNatural]

Sorry, yes 1.5a

 

[MrsP0721]

Ok, it said 1.5a