Sigelei Zmax V3 and V5 Telescopic: User's Group

[yzer]

Photobucket is great. I've used it for at least five years.

I took a quick look at some vendors sites today. Desert Vapes is sold out of brushed stainless steel flat top V3 and V5, but they have round top V3 and V5 in stock. Varitube has stainless steel V3s in stock but they have never stocked V5s.

 

[AndriaD]

Upload it to photo bucket, that's what I do. The use the photo bucket link to add in the add photo selection in the posting interface.

Similar here, except since I have my own website/domain, I just upload it there, and use that link. If you use freehosting, you can't usually do that, they have software in place to prevent "hot linking," but when you have your own paid-for hosting, you can link to anything on it.

Andria

 

[MrsP0721]

I've had nothing but problems with mine, the V5 is the only one that didn't start giving me problems within the first week. I've done everything everyone told me to do and nothing helps.

I didn't know if it was something that was fixed in the V5 and that's why (so far) it's not having issues.

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[JeremyR]

Well sorry to hear that, but glad the v5 is good for you. Do you notice that the threads on your v5 telecopic tube are tighter?
Side to side slop (rocking the main body) and up and down slop.

 

[yzer]

MrsPO721 is having more than her fair share of problems with the two V3s, but not the V5. When I first noticed her posts late in March or early April she was doing fine with them using carto tanks. I can't help but think that the new atomizers she is using aren't fitting right. It may be problems with fitting to the center post and shorts in the atomizer. Then you have the possible coil issues with rebuildables.

MrsPO, are the carto tanks still working fine on the V3s? I never have problems using a good 510 carto tank.

 

[MrsP0721]

Idk what you mean by slop, but it is harder to unscrew the tube if that's what you're asking. The V3s aren't easy, just not as stiff I guess, even though they all have about the same amount of noalox.

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[fairmana]

I wasn't discounting that at all fairmana. It was simply a quick post over coffee before I got ready for work. Didn't mean to poopoo it. It wasn't a comprehensive well thought out plan just a quick post.. Me I've not had any issue with 510 leaking myself, and it's regularly wet or flooded. Don't take any offence, It would definately be part of a comprehensive upgrade modification. I think the 510 pin leak is more of a hit and miss depending on the condition of it when it leaves the factory...

I like my oddy flush mounted, it's center pin is adjustable. When its flush to the 510 it does restrict air flow. That's why I added deeper channels to the v3 510 for better air flow on flush mount 510 devices.

No worries Jeremy.

I wish we could be sure that both of those leaking V3's came with a cracked 510 from the factory, but both V3's had been used for at least a month, so its entirely possible that the crack occurred during that time frame. Maybe someone who reads this thread will buy one in the near future and will find a crack right out of the box and let us know. It just seems prudent to assume the worst case scenario and not have to worry about it later.

By the way, just out of curiosity, what did you use to deepen the channels on your 510? A file or a Dremmel cutting wheel? How did it turn out?

Lastly, that mod I was talking about before with the spring loaded center pin is the Tesla. I found a video review that shows the top pretty good at the 5 minute mark. Keep listening for about 30 seconds after the image goes back to the reviewer to hear some good info about it. I don't know if any other mods have a spring-loaded center pin. I would sure love to have that center pin on my V3's.

 

[yzer]

Just how brittle is that insulator material? Any idea what it is? I think someone mentioned it seemed like nylon.

 

[MrsP0721]

MrsPO721 is having more than her fair share of problems with the two V3s, but not the V5. When I first noticed her posts late in March or early April she was doing fine with them using carto tanks. I can't help but think that the new atomizers she is using aren't fitting right. It may be problems with fitting to the center post and shorts in the atomizer. Then you have the possible coil issues with rebuildables.

MrsPO, are the carto tanks still working fine on the V3s? I never have problems using a good 510 carto tank.

It's more that they only fire when they want to, I had that problem with one of the Minis but not the other. Now that the Nautilus is in the picture I'm getting the error msgs on just those two mods, not my Sigelei V5 or Vamo V5, on top of only firing when they want.

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[yzer]

It's more that they only fire when they want to, I had that problem with one of the Minis but not the other. Now that the Nautilus is in the picture I'm getting the error msgs on just those two mods, not my Sigelei V5 or Vamo V5, on top of only firing when they want.

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So you are getting intermittent firing now with carto tanks on the V3s, too?

 

[MrsP0721]

I always have

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[MrsP0721]

I don't get the error msgs with carto tanks but it still has the firing problems. They've been doing that for a while. It wasn't as bad, it's getting worse. Every time I would take them to the local shop I bought them from they kept saying it was normal, that I need to push the button different or it was just me! I got so sick of hearing that I'm doing something wrong I just quit talking about it. I would assume though that when I push the button, it should work!

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[yzer]

It's sounding more and more like defective switches. One way to help avoid this issue is to buy one Sigelei at a time and use it exclusively during the vendor warranty period. The longer the warranty period, the better. I have always taken a chance on 30-day warranties but 90-day warranties like that offered by Varitube are a safer bet.

 

[MotherNatural]

The only time mine don't fire is when I get the low load msg. I go cross eyed trying to look at the screen while firing and drawing all at the same time. I forgot to mention that a couple of times the low load msg seemed to be related to a leaking tank and juice on the pin which could be why you don't get it with a carto?

 

[yzer]

I get plenty of condensation (but no leakage) on top off the 510 center pin, the insulator and under the top cap every day using a carto tank. I clean and dry it with kleenex once a day.

 

[fairmana]

Just how brittle is that insulator material? Any idea what it is? I think someone mentioned it seemed like nylon.

It didn't seem overly brittle, although I did manage to snap off the entire "brim" of the top-hat when I was trying to remove it which I later glued back on (that was before I figured out it would unscrew!). It was malleable enough to finish threading the top-hat into the bottom using a sharp tipped tool that sunk into the plastic enough to turn it (I couldn't grab it with my fingers anymore). Jeremy suggested it could be nylon, and it may well be. I just can't say for sure.

Edit: I didn't use what I would consider "excessive force" when I busted that brim off, so I get the impression that it will break or crack if some force is applied.

 

[yzer]

It didn't seem overly brittle, although I did manage to snap off the entire "brim" of the top-hat when I was trying to remove it which I later glued back on (that was before I figured out it would unscrew!). It was malleable enough to finish threading the top-hat into the bottom using a sharp tipped tool that sunk into the plastic enough to turn it (I couldn't grab it with my fingers anymore). Jeremy suggested it could be nylon, and it may well be. I just can't say for sure.

Edit: I didn't use what I would consider "excessive force" when I busted that brim off, so I get the impression that it will break or crack if some force is applied.

OK. I'll take extra care if I ever have the need to take a Sigelei apart. What wattage do you typically run? I run 6.5-7.0W. Do you think that heat may accelerate cracking?

 

[fairmana]

It's sounding more and more like defective switches.

I would agree.

I have a question though MrsP0721:
I know we've beaten this to death, but before you've applied new Noalox, did you wipe off all the old Noalox and clean up the threads well with alcohol and an old toothbrush? You need to be sure the threads are clean and free from lint and any debris before applying new Noalox. Don't just wipe off the majority of the old Noalox and re-apply (even if the threads look relatively clean, they probably won't be). Also be sure to remove the battery spring and clean up inside the battery cap and the underside of the spring. If you've already done all that, then it's a good bet that the switch is the culprit.

 

[MrsP0721]

Yea I did that, you guys have been great about telling me exactly what I need to do. I think it's the switch too but I'm not even close to being an expert. lol

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[fairmana]

OK. I'll take extra care if I ever have the need to take a Sigelei apart. What wattage do you typically run? I run 6.5-7.0W. Do you think that heat may accelerate cracking?

The V3 with the crack belongs to my Dad and he vapes between 7 and 8 watts. I wouldn't guess that the pin would get hot enough to cause any problems over the long haul, but who can say for sure. I didn't see any discoloration or warping of the plastic to give me that impression anyway. Also take into consideration that the V3 was only used for about a month - not enough time for anyone to suspect that heat might have caused any cumulative problems. Valid question though.