Sigelei Zmax V3 and V5 Telescopic: User's Group

[yzer]

New cell phone, new camera. Here are the three Sigeleis. Left: V5 purchased this April from Desert Vapes. Sized for 18500 with IBTanked on top. Center: First generation 14 month-old V3 purchased from ElectronicStix in April, 2013. This one has seen a lot of use. Right: Second generation V3 purchased from 101 vape in December of 2013. This one has the short battery cap installed for 18350.

This shot gives you a good idea of how well the brushed stainless steel has held up to wear. You can see slight variations in the finishes and trim. Each is a little different.

 

[PaulBHC]

Any tips for changing the power setting? I'm using watts. I hold the button when the up or down menu comes up, and once it starts the display, it starts changing the number. I end up going past the number that I want and either have to scroll through the whole list or change to the other menu and hope it get it right on that try.

I put Noalox on the threads. How do I tell that the tube and cap are screwed on tight enough (after changing the battery) without breaking the display?

 

[fairmana]

It sounds like you are saying you are holding the button down. If so, then that's your problem. Everything needs to be done with button "clicks". You need to press and release the button as many times as needed to get to the menu item you want (power up, power down, etc.). Then pause for a moment (don't press anything) until the current power level is displayed. Then press and release the button (click the button) as many times as needed until it gets to the power setting you want. It will change each time you press the button in .5 watt increments.

 

[yzer]

I put Noalox on the threads. How do I tell that the tube and cap are screwed on tight enough (after changing the battery) without breaking the display?

Change out the battery by holding the battery tube so that it does not move. Then remove the battery cap at the end of the tube, replace the battery and put the battery cap on again. There is no need to move the adjusting tube at all during battery replacement.

 

[yzer]

The battery tube should be adjusted so that the battery spring is about 1/2 compressed regardless of battery size used.

or...

-Using the tall (15mm) battery cap with batteries longer than 18350: end of battery should extend 1/8" past the end of the tube. Then screw on the battery cap while holding the battery tube in place.

-Using the short (10mm) battery cap with batteries longer than 18350: end of battery should be 1/8" below the end of the tube. Then screw on the battery cap while holding the battery tube in place.

-For 18350 battery: Screw the battery tube down all the way to it's shortest position. Use the short battery cap. It fits 18350 perfectly. The tall battery cap may fit for 18350 or it may not without stretching the spring.

-For 2x18350: Use the tall battery cap. The end of the second 18350 should extend 1/8" past the end of the tube. Then screw on the battery cap while holding the battery tube in place. The short cap is too short for 2x18350 and will leave some of the telescopic tube threads exposed, greatly increasing tube wobble.

 

[yzer]

For the Telescopic V3 and V5 the idea is to compress the battery spring no more than 1/2 of it's relaxed length:

-Using the tall (15mm) battery cap with batteries longer than 18350: adjust tube until end of battery extends 1/8" past the end of the tube. Then screw on the battery cap while holding the battery tube in place. Using the tall cap on batteries longer than 18350 costs nothing in overall Sigelei length as the tube makes up this adjustment.

-Using the short (10mm) battery cap with batteries longer than 18350: adjust battery tube until end of battery is 1/8" below the end of the tube. Then screw on the battery cap while holding the battery tube in place.

-For 18350 battery: Screw the battery tube down all the way to it's shortest position. Use the short battery cap. It fits 18350 perfectly and gives V3 and V5 the shortest length (100 mm) with 18350. The tall battery cap may fit for 18350 or it may not without stretching the spring.

-For 2x18350: Use the tall battery cap. Adjust tube until the second 18350 extends 1/8" past the end of the tube. Then screw on the battery cap while holding the battery tube in place. The short cap is too short for 2x18350 and will leave some of the telescopic tube threads exposed, greatly increasing tube wobble.

Another way to look at it is to measure the Sigelei V3 or V5 lengthwise from the battery cap base to the end of the 510 connector. Calipers work great for this measurement. With the spring properly compressed about 1/2 way you will get these approximate measurements:

18350: 100mm with short battery cap, 105mm with long battery cap.
18490: 111-114mm with either battery cap, spring 1/2 compressed.
18500: 112-115mm with either battery cap, spring 1/2 compressed.
18650: 127-130mm with either battery cap, spring 1/2 compressed.
2x18350: 132-135mm with long battery cap, spring 1/2 compressed.

 

[yzer]

We have not seen many reports of Sigelei displays getting displaced due to overtightening the tube for the past 6-8 months. This problem was reported more often with the first generation V3s. This problem seems to be rarely encountered with second generation V3s and V5s.

 

[PaulBHC]

@fairmana thanks I did not realize that I only had to wait at a menu item.

@yzer thanks I have been switching battery sizes to get a feel for size, weight, battery life so adjusting the tube has been necessary.

 

[PaulBHC]

BTW my V5 doesn't look like your picture. The top section is smooth, no lines. The bottom tube has vertical lines about 3/8"/10mm apart. The fire button is chrome with a depressed circle near the edge and a line like a clock hand. The caps have dimples spaced wider than the lines on the tube. No issues with the display position and it is bright and easy for my old eyes to read. Button press is very smooth and light with a click sound.

 

[VapieDan]

BTW my V5 doesn't look like your picture. The top section is smooth, no lines. The bottom tube has vertical lines about 3/8"/10mm apart. The fire button is chrome with a depressed circle near the edge and a line like a clock hand. The caps have dimples spaced wider than the lines on the tube. No issues with the display position and it is bright and easy for my old eyes to read. Button press is very smooth and light with a click sound.

You have the round top version of the V5. The style is "Provari" like which was the intent. The workings are the same as the flat top model. The metal button is the latest revision of the V5 on both the round and flat top models.

 

[yzer]

Desert Vapes was out of stock on flat top V5 when PaulBHC ordered. They have both flat and round top V5 and V3 in stock now.

 

[yzer]

BTW my V5 doesn't look like your picture. The top section is smooth, no lines. The bottom tube has vertical lines about 3/8"/10mm apart. The fire button is chrome with a depressed circle near the edge and a line like a clock hand. The caps have dimples spaced wider than the lines on the tube. No issues with the display position and it is bright and easy for my old eyes to read. Button press is very smooth and light with a click sound.

Yes, you have the round top style. You mentioned another difference that surprises me. Your description makes it sound like there is the international icon for "power control" on top of your metal button. I have seen this on photos of another Sigelei model... maybe a Sigelei 20W or 30W. The metal button on my V5 has no symbol.

 

[yzer]

@fairmana thanks I did not realize that I only had to wait at a menu item.

@yzer thanks I have been switching battery sizes to get a feel for size, weight, battery life so adjusting the tube has been necessary.

I've learned that IMR batteries may require a couple of charge cycles before they reach full capacity. This seemed to be especially true with new 18350s.

 

[fairmana]

We have not seen many reports of Sigelei displays getting displaced due to overtightening the tube for the past 6-8 months. This problem was reported more often with the first generation V3s. This problem seems to be rarely encountered with second generation V3s and V5s.

Yzer, I don't want to come off as a spoil sport, but I personally wouldn't feel comfortable saying the same thing. Every V3 I've come into contact with has had this issue sooner or later, regardless of the version (eight V3's that I've disassembled thus far). In every case, either the glue holding the U-shaped support was broken loose from the inner tube wall, or the circuit card had broken loose from it's tracks in the U-shaped support. I will however say that even though they had broken loose, only about half of them led to a problematic shift in the display and button. Sometimes it was an issue and sometimes it wasn't.

It's also quite possible that people with issues that come searching for info on this thread don't always leave a comment, so I submit that just because we haven't seen a significant number of complaints does not necessarily mean it isn't prevalent. I feel the same way about the button issue as well. I personally have seen nothing to convince me that the button used on the original V3 is any different than the button used on the latest V3's. I've owned both versions and both failed me after about the same length of time. Friends and family members who also own V3's (purchased on my recommendation) have all likewise seen the same problems (every single one of them). Was it just bad luck that all of us got faulty V3's from a bad batch of them in both versions? I suppose anything is possible. Thankfully, not everyone has experienced these problems, and I'm happy for those owners.

Regardless of its flaws, you won't hear too many complaints from me because it's a very affordable device, its relatively easy to repair and modify to overcome both of the previously mentioned issues, and when it works - it works great. The stainless body is also very tough, great looking, and physically provides for several battery options. I'm not ashamed to say that my V3's are what I use exclusively every day and I'm looking forward to getting my V5 any day now in the mail (hopefully tomorrow).

 

[yzer]

I have to disagree with you on this one, fairmana. I'm looking back over a lot of posts on this thread I just don't see many recent display shifts due to over-tighened tubes. I see a few that resulted from drops. I own two V3s and a V5. The oldest V3 is 14 months old and that one will misfire maybe a couple of times a day... not enough to warrent repair yet. The others don't misfire, ever. None of the displays have shifted in my devices.

The switch on the V3 and V5 is one of the weak links but we haven't seen nearly as many switch problems reported on these Sigeleis as with the SVDs, for example.

Keep in mind that these Sigelei APVs are priced in the $40-$55 range, tube alone. These are not $150+ rigs and cannot be expected to perform as such. I am the last person to pretend that they do.

 

[PaulBHC]

I like the looks of this round top. I have various toppers of different sizes and I'm not bothered by mismatch or gaps.

I am familiar with the 1 and 0 on and off and suppose this button is portraying that or momentary contact switching.

With the Noalox the tube threads smoothly enough that I feared not being able to tell that I was over tightening. Using your recommendation I get a little tube rocking if I try. Not a real bother at this point.

I was disappointed in the 18490s the first couple of times out but now that they have a few cycles I am getting a lot longer life than an ego 650 or 18350 700 or VV3 800. I'll try the 18350s Thursday and Friday when I don't normally get to chain vape.

 

[yzer]

I'm happy with the red Efest 18500s I've been using for the past year. Efest rates them 1100mAh, as well. 18650 is great for the 2000mAh capacity but I don't like the longer length that much.

If you go by those guidelines for tube adjustment you shouldn't go wrong. The springs get stiffer the further they are compressed. People were tightening the battery tube down to where the springs were smashed completely flat and even beyond that. That's where trouble is bound to happen.

 

[VapieDan]

Here is a new one. Anyone know anything about it?

New T Zmax Vaporizer Kit apv VV VW Vape USA Seller by Ehpro | eBay

 

[yzer]

Here is a new one. Anyone know anything about it?

New T Zmax Vaporizer Kit apv VV VW Vape USA Seller by Ehpro | eBay

Ehpro is not Sigelei. It is a different company in China. They have made a number of clones.

Here is a list of threads and posts on ECF for Ehpro products if you are interested.

Ehpro, ECF results on Google

 

[yzer]

Thanks for posting that, VapieDan. It's not a very accurate attempt at a Sigelei clone but it does have a vague resemblance to the real thing.