Squape Reloaded Clone

[Nailz]

I've had mine leak only once and sure it was down to the wicking, I cut my wicks just slightly longer than the deck, so get a few mm's to go down the channels, but it is a fine line of getting it right, to short and will leak, to long and will get dry hits, but I am using japanese cotton, so don't know if different for different wicking materials.

 

[erickim55]

Double post

 

[erickim55]

Anyone got links for USA venders(non-EBAY) selling the EHPro Squape Reloaded?

Zquape R Clone (No Logo) by EHPRO - Eciggity

 

[roxynoodle]

I've had mine leak only once and sure it was down to the wicking, I cut my wicks just slightly longer than the deck, so get a few mm's to go down the channels, but it is a fine line of getting it right, to short and will leak, to long and will get dry hits, but I am using japanese cotton, so don't know if different for different wicking materials.

Did it leak just sitting there? I admit I'm not looking forward to pulling the plastic tank and checking those o rings again.

 

[Nailz]

The 1 time it did leak, I had re-wicked it a few hours before bed, I vaped on it for 2-3 hours with no problems, went to bed, and when I got up in the morning it had leaked out of the air hole.

 

[Heespharm]

The 1 time it did leak, I had re-wicked it a few hours before bed, I vaped on it for 2-3 hours with no problems, went to bed, and when I got up in the morning it had leaked out of the air hole.

What deck are you using... Sounds like not enough cotton or try using a smaller deck


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[Nailz]

What deck are you using... Sounds like not enough cotton or try using a smaller deck


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It only happened once, and it was when I tried the 'c' deck with japanese cotton, after that I went back to the 'w' deck and had no more problems

 

[cindycated]

Have some more info, and would like opinions. I've had the SqR upside down in the stand for the Rose for almost 3 hours. It has leaked a little into the opening the drip tip fits into. Think it has an airleak where the chimney fits into the top cap? If so, do you think the o rings on the drip tip are supposed to prevent that? The chimney itself doesn't have an o ring.

I suppose it could still be the top o ring for the plastic tank section as well.

Relating this to plumbing now: What if you did put an o-ring that the top of the chimney, even if it doesn't usually come like that? Without an o-ring up there, the top cap and that lip on the chimney top below the threads would have to be machined perfectly to seal without some kind of gasket, which to me sounds doubtful now. I can't see how the drip tip o-rings can seal anything. One other thing you can try is plumber's teflon tape around the threads of the chimney. Yeah. Try that first.

Wishful thinking for your sake, but it doesn't sound like your leak is from the tank rings. You would see liquid in the triangles. It sounds more like the top of the chimney to me. But instead of taking the tank off to make sure, how about doing the twirling thing, like that guy did in that linked vid on the focal thread? Maybe you'd be able to tell that way how the o-rings are seated, and wiggle/twirl the tank enough to get them to fall into the grooves if you need to.

 

[roxynoodle]

Well, o rings were intact. I recoiled because my previous coil went bonkers on me after I pulled the wick, with resistances going all over the place. I cut the new wick a bit past the deck, and so far so good. So we'll see. Sounds like it was a wicking issue.

I do think whatever the nonconductive coating is that it may be thinner in some spots. Its crazy how the resistance can change like it does.

 

[cindycated]

Well, o rings were intact. I recoiled because my previous coil went bonkers on me after I pulled the wick, with resistances going all over the place. I cut the new wick a bit past the deck, and so far so good. So we'll see. Sounds like it was a wicking issue.

I do think whatever the nonconductive coating is that it may be thinner in some spots. Its crazy how the resistance can change like it does.

I read this a looong time ago in the FT forum about the first Squape, but they were saying some coating had gotten into the threads, as well as the screws. The fix was to work the screws in and out with a thin piece of wire in the threads (like 32g kanthal) to scrape it off. Maybe you missed some with the sandpaper?

Man, I don't even want this thing anymore.

 

[Otto Dafe]

Have some more info, and would like opinions. I've had the SqR upside down in the stand for the Rose for almost 3 hours. It has leaked a little into the opening the drip tip fits into. Think it has an airleak where the chimney fits into the top cap? If so, do you think the o rings on the drip tip are supposed to prevent that? The chimney itself doesn't have an o ring.

I suppose it could still be the top o ring for the plastic tank section as well.

There is definitely supposed to be an o-ring at the top of the chimney.

 

[roxynoodle]

I read this a looong time ago in the FT forum about the first Squape, but they were saying some coating had gotten into the threads, as well as the screws. The fix was to work the screws in and out with a thin piece of wire in the threads (like 32g kanthal) to scrape it off. Maybe you missed some with the sandpaper?

Man, I don't even want this thing anymore.

I've been reading other forums and many are having the jumping resistance, particularly with the Ivogo.

They seem to think its due to the 510 pin and wobbly deck. One said he put a piece of kanger insulator up there. Another put a grub screw from a Rose up there and then his 510. I'm not sure I understand what they are doing ? Can someone explain this? Are the putting these things up at the top of the 510 shaft?

My resistance went sky high again a little while ago. I am just at wits end here. I'm so glad I haven't put this thing on a mech and vented a battery!

 

[cindycated]

They were saying in the FT forum that the 510 pin is too short and the deck threads are easy to strip on this version. People were saying that they couldn't catch any threads with their pin and it would just wobble and get pushed in when they put it on their mods, or just fall right off. Yikes. That would be a PITA to fix if that's what's happening with yours.
I hadn't heard about the grub screw, but I heard about a spring. Seems that something in there is so short that it's not making contact, so it needs to be extended somehow (don't have one to take apart yet, sorry). Pretty sure the Kanger insulator is to keep the pin from wobbling - kinda like the o-ring fix for the KFL - you'd be able to screw it in and torque it without the screw going in too far...assuming you still have working threads. Kidney Puncher has KFL 510 insulators - I might be getting some of those, just to have around. Or teflon o-rings (size 003).

Dunno, Roxy. Sounds like a dud to me. Shoot your video and send the sucker back. I think I'm gonna pay the extra that they'll charge me for shipping and swap mine out for the Coppervape (?) version (the one with the glass tank and 3 decks) when it gets here. At least that one has a better pin/insulator. But watch the deck coatings suck.

 

[roxynoodle]

They were saying in the FT forum that the 510 pin is too short and the deck threads are easy to strip on this version. People were saying that they couldn't catch any threads with their pin and it would just wobble and get pushed in when they put it on their mods, or just fall right off. Yikes. That would be a PITA to fix if that's what's happening with yours.
I hadn't heard about the grub screw, but I heard about a spring. Seems that something in there is so short that it's not making contact, so it needs to be extended somehow (don't have one to take apart yet, sorry). Pretty sure the Kanger insulator is to keep the pin from wobbling - kinda like the o-ring fix for the KFL - you'd be able to screw it in and torque it without the screw going in too far...assuming you still have working threads. Kidney Puncher has KFL 510 insulators - I might be getting some of those, just to have around. Or teflon o-rings (size 003).

Dunno, Roxy. Sounds like a dud to me. Shoot your video and send the sucker back. I think I'm gonna pay the extra that they'll charge me for shipping and swap mine out for the Coppervape (?) version (the one with the glass tank and 3 decks) when it gets here. At least that one has a better pin/insulator. But watch the deck coatings suck.

Where do you put the o ring or insulator?

Yes, sounds like the Coppervane or vape one is a lot better.

 

[petemoss]

There is definitely supposed to be an o-ring at the top of the chimney.

I think so also, so I put one in. Don't know if that is the reason, but I've never had a leak in my SQr, or any of my toppers for that matter.

 

[elenamylove]

So whats the best SR clone to get? EHPRO or IVOGO? Seems like they all have issues

 

[cindycated]

Where do you put the o ring or insulator?

Yes, sounds like the Coppervane or vape one is a lot better.

Right at the head of the pin before you screw it in, like a washer.

 

[Nuclear Cowboy]

So whats the best SR clone to get? EHPRO or IVOGO? Seems like they all have issues

I bought a Kingtu, 2 Elekars and a Ivogo. I've had trouble out of everyone of them. So far I've gotten a refund from everyone except the Ivogo from Focal ecig. They seem to want to fight the refund process so I've taken it up with paypal. I'll never buy another thing from those crocks!

I personally don't think there is a "best" one but would give the EHpro a try before any of the others.

 

[ozzydude]

So whats the best SR clone to get? EHPRO or IVOGO? Seems like they all have issues

The EHPRO works great with no issues but only comes with standard deck at the moment.

 

[elenamylove]

The EHPRO works great with no issues but only comes with standard deck at the moment.

Yeah, I heard they are releasing the other 2 decks soon so I might get the EHPRO SR and wait for the extra decks.