Square bottles?

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luke213

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I don't have a reo just stumbled into the thread but I've worked with some thermo molding plastics. I'm wondering if you could build a small square wood box about the size you need heat a slightly larger bottle the right height to where it's pliable with a heat gun or something along those lines insert it into the mold then use low air pressure off a compressor to spread the bottle to the edges of the mold. Wouldn't be fast but in my mind it should work and be fairly easy for small amounts of production like a diy setup.

Just an idea for you guys.

Luke

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Quigsworth

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I don't have a reo just stumbled into the thread but I've worked with some thermo molding plastics. I'm wondering if you could build a small square wood box about the size you need heat a slightly larger bottle the right height to where it's pliable with a heat gun or something along those lines insert it into the mold then use low air pressure off a compressor to spread the bottle to the edges of the mold. Wouldn't be fast but in my mind it should work and be fairly easy for small amounts of production like a diy setup.

Just an idea for you guys.

Luke

Sent from my XT875 using Tapatalk

I've been kicking that around as well...almost a re-blown injection mold...still thinking about how to preserve the threaded neck. I was thinking of just a simple wire rack with a heat shield, the body hangs down, suspended by a slot in a small piece of sheet metal...heat till it's all floppy, lower it into a mold and hit it with the compressor...see what happens :p
 

Quigsworth

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I remember reading somewhere that melted plastic gives off toxic fumes maybe... so do this outside or in a well ventilated area:p?

Of course you're right but for some reason I really like the smell of melting plastic...especially the Polyethylenes...ABS, not so much but then there's PVC, pfft, don't get me started on PVC...
 

turbocad6

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yeah, plastic fumes are nasty stuff, well ventilated is a must. cut a thin strip from the same material to use as welding "rod", use the iron tip to melt the 2 edges, then add rod to build up a weld. alternatively you can either overlap or leave one edge overhanging the other a bit and then use the excess material as filler, just use the iron tip to melt the excess edge down till it just about meets the adjacent edge and then fold them into each other. plastic welding is pretty easy with a little practice
 

Ian444

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I attempted to weld up a square bottle using a temp-controlled soldering iron with a big flat tip. It's pretty ugly and probably unreliable, so I didn't put juice in it, but it's pretty obvious that squonking will be easier with a flat surface against the squonk hole, and nowhere else for the bottle to expand into during the squonk. The walls of the juice containers I used to make up the bottle were thicker than what I would have thought. I think you could weld up a nice square bottle if you made a jig to hold everything in place, and cut pieces out perfectly square, but it becomes a big job to make the tooling to do the relatively simple job.

I think Luke213's idea is very good, and thanks for posting. A square cage the right size, pressurize the existing bottle to 5 or 10psi, apply heat until it fills the cage.
 

glassgal

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Of course you're right but for some reason I really like the smell of melting plastic...especially the Polyethylenes...ABS, not so much but then there's PVC, pfft, don't get me started on PVC...

That's a new one... you LIKE the smell of burning plastic?? I guess it's sort of like the smell of glue? :p :laugh:
 

glassgal

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Robert just needs to whip up a oval REO.

That way the round bottle will fit perfect and the battery too!

Might make the REO's sold now obsolete though.

Well, I think his cutter wouldn't be able to do that, and he's already got a CNC robot right? If it were oval, it would have to have a door like the Phidias, and Phidias is already doing that... and that design with the door is pretty efficient (not so sure I'm nuts about the juice button tho...

I'm sitting here holding both, and the Phidias bottle holds only 1/2 as much as the Woodvil... but the mod's thicker by about 5mm (but 5mm shorter), and there's no extra room inside because the wood's thicker. But I can't really see how it can be done thinner without worrying about the integrity of the wood. I guess it could be done if you kept the Woodvil slider door, and just rounded the back 2 corners but NOT the front of it... Hrm. I dont' think an oval would make the Woodvil obsolete at all. I have an oval Dibi, an oval Phidias too, and I still use my Woodvil most.

What would make the Woodvil obsolete is if a new design fit a bigger juice bottle... the only bigger juice bottle is the Bogger's, but that's only because the Bogger is HUGE. Well, easier to just see side by side size comparisons between the bottom feeders.

Here are most but not all of my box shaped mods. Other than juice bottle, can't think of anything that will make the Woodvil obsolete:
DSC00814800x468_zps80afcf68.jpg


Oh, ALL my mods are 18650 except the Microstick and BilletBox.
 
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nerak

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Well, I think his cutter wouldn't be able to do that, and he's already got a CNC robot right? If it were oval, it would have to have a door like the Phidias, and Phidias is already doing that... and that design with the door is pretty efficient (not so sure I'm nuts about the juice button tho...

I'm sitting here holding both, and the Phidias bottle holds only 1/2 as much as the Woodvil... but the mod's thicker by about 5mm (but 5mm shorter), and there's no extra room inside because the wood's thicker. But I can't really see how it can be done thinner without worrying about the integrity of the wood. I guess it could be done if you kept the Woodvil slider door, and just rounded the back 2 corners but NOT the front of it... Hrm. I dont' think an oval would make the Woodvil obsolete at all. I have an oval Dibi, an oval Phidias too, and I still use my Woodvil most.

What would make the Woodvil obsolete is if a new design fit a bigger juice bottle... the only bigger juice bottle is the Bogger's, but that's only because the Bogger is HUGE. Well, easier to just see side by side size comparisons between the bottom feeders.

Here are most but not all of my box shaped mods. Other than juice bottle, can't think of anything that will make the Woodvil obsolete:
DSC00814800x468_zps80afcf68.jpg


Oh, ALL my mods are 18650 except the Microstick and BilletBox.

Well, I am completely satisfied with the REO's current shape and bottle. For me the bottle size is great.
 

73neb

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I carry two grands at all times. I top off the bottles every night with 1-2 ml's left in them. Larger bottles would stretch me to every other night I think, which would be great. I'm gonna order a couple of the vmod bottles and give them a shot, although I'd rather get them from REO if they ever become available.
 

glassgal

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Well, I am completely satisfied with the REO's current shape and bottle. For me the bottle size is great.

I can tell... that's a lot of beautiful woodvils:p.

**Edited to say that the 'that' above refers to your avatar of your huge collection of beautiful woodvil nerak:). You and mama need to hook up:p. hehe
 
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ratchet62

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I remember reading somewhere that melted plastic gives off toxic fumes maybe... so do this outside or in a well ventilated area:p?

GG.... I works in plastics for many years. If you over heat the plastic, then yes it will give of some nasty fumes. Our bottles are polyethylene, which if I remember correctly, hits glass transition at around 325° F. This is the temp you would need to get to to weld. Its not until about 500° F that it would start to degrade and offgas.

Other plastics have different temp ranges, and the by products of decomposition due to excess heat varies also. For example, PVC puts off a particularly nasty toxic smoke that when inhaled turns to hydrochloric acid.
 

turbocad6

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yeah, this plastic is a very low melting temp, you don't want to overheat it or it will "boil" and get black spots and air bubbles and make a mess not to mention very toxic fumes. a low temp thermoset like this I would normally weld with an air welder but that would be too elaborate of a setup for a hobbyist, soldering iron can work perfectly well but has to be turned down low, you just want enough heat to melt it and you'll need to go pretty slow to not overheat and burn it. sometimes I will use hot air and an iron at the same time for larger masses but this should be very easy to do once you get the hang of it with just the soldering iron alone... you will get smoke and the fumes are very toxic, you don't want to see black stuff or bubbling, if you do then your running it too hot

another thing not mentioned but something that should be considered if building a new bottle, you don't want it to be too flimsy, if the bottle is too soft then it will squonk but it will have a hard time sucking back and drainage will be slow going or it may not drain well at all. the bottle should be stiff enough that it returns to pre formed shape readily enough. this would be my worry about blowing a round one to a square, I'd almost rather compress a larger cylinder to a square than try to expand a smaller one to a square. if the bottle walls are too thin it will compress and then just stay compressed as it tries to slowly and with very little return pressure go back to it's static form.
 

EagleTa2

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I'm glad someone. Finally posted this here...
I've seen a mod to the Grand before to take a standard 10ml bottle... it involved trimming some off of the center rib with a dremel so you don't have to squeeze the bottle into the space like this. I like the idea of a square bottle and easier squonking though.

For now, I just do what I have always done...carry two grands...now I can have different flavors too.

I've thought about stuffing a 10 mil bottle in mine...just not quite ready to attack my mod with a dremel. You never know what could happen!

Thanks
Geo
 
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