Stainless Steel mesh, Oxide discussion.

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zoiDman

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Perhaps I am too old to worry about possible damage at 73 yrs of age. but who knows that for sure. Is there any consensus in sight?

No consensus that I know of.

One thing to consider is that Something that is Harmful on a the outer Boundary of a Coil or Wick is not necessarily Dangerous to use while vaping. It would become Dangerous if it Can and Does enter the e-liquid.

It would seem that if Dangerous Oxides are found on either a NiChrome Coil or SS Wick, the next Logical step would be to put the Coil / Wick in an e-liquid and see if the Oxides Migrate into the e-Liquid.
 

junkman

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MikeE3:8653517 said:
Threadjack. Sorry, mostly my fault

To avoid further threadjacking, does anyone have a link to a thread discussion setups w/ un-oxidized mesh. Junkman, my experience is similar, I get what looks like a 'perfect' glowing coil. It's stable for 15 mins to a couple hours then goes south. I'm using either a Gripper or Vamo for this. Don't have a mech mod, maybe I should try with a Provari .

I think discussing unox low ox is ok here, but getting into the whole argument over pwm/hz rate of various mods is a ways off topic with potential to get out of control. Looks like that has been recognized bythe fine gentlemen discussing it and avoided
 

laddu ga

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Good thread. I have tried to follow along but am not clear about something. From what I understand, wouldn't a non-oxidized ss wick (only boiled for sterility) with cotton insulating the wick and coil (string or cotton ball method) solve the issue? This should avoid the chrominum and reduce the shorting issues. Am I missing something? Thanks for any input. Just trying to understand.
 

Uma

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I use a small stainless steel cup (like 6 oz or so), so it comes up to boil in just a minute or two. But I would get it boiling then drop the mesh in. You can do a whole sheet at once. Sometimes stuff floats to the top, oil from your hands or machining etc.

I hear ya about the oil and stuff, which is why I always (or always did) blue flame it. The boiling would kill even more oil and germs. I can inhale my own germs, been doing that for ... too many years to count... but the thought of inhaling someone elses' germs is always a downer. So, I torch(ed). Now boil(ed). :)
I'll keep the teakettle hot and change the water in the saucepan many times throughout.
 

Projectguy

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Good thread. I have tried to follow along but am not clear about something. From what I understand, wouldn't a non-oxidized ss wick (only boiled for sterility) with cotton insulating the wick and coil (string or cotton ball method) solve the issue? This should avoid the chrominum and reduce the shorting issues. Am I missing something? Thanks for any input. Just trying to understand.

IMO
I think we first have to PROVE conclusively that the "chromium issue" as it relates to vaping is in fact a threat. To my mind there has been a significant amount of hysteria and even by the creator of this thread's own admission "more testing is required. So until there is conclusive PROOF using the SCIENTIFIC METHOD everything is equally safe / dangerous.
 

zoiDman

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Maybe I’m just Lower Strung than some… But I haven’t seen much Hysteria over all this. Perhaps some Concern. Or Guarded Caution. But No needle in the red Hysteria.

I do think “More testing is Required”. And I think it is a Perfectly Reasonable thing to say.

I also applaud Boden for taking an Action about something that he is Interested/Concerned about. With some things, we need more Do-ers than Thinkers.
 

filcei

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This is a great thread, been reading through it all and learned a lot about mesh and am now running a less oxidized coil. Just made a new coil and used a lighter on the mesh before coiling (less than 2 seconds on each spot) and then made a juice burn after rolling. Worked great! Had a few hotspots but pulsed 2-3 seconds at each time and they went away pretty easily (was using ribbon though, which I believe makes it easier).

Now, I don't understand anything about chemistry but would it be possible to boil the mesh after oxidizing it to remove those harmful residues if they are in fact being created?
 

Boden

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Ok I waded thru this thread and a couple of ancillary threads and with all the differing opinions I'm totally confused.

a) I have A7's, I rebuild them with 32 Kanthal wire and 1.5mm silica wick.

b) I have AGA T2's coming, I thought I was going to use them with SS mesh and Kanthal ribbon.

c) So far I've read silica is dangerous, SS is maybe dangerous, all the SS YouTube things I've seen may or may not be wrong.

SS should be safe as long as you don't heat the bejebus out of it, basically don't heat it until it glows. This is a cautious answer, it may turn out that you can stick it in lava and it will be fine but for now below 1200degF is all good.

Drawn silica is also basically safe. I did several tests myself and the particals that do shed are too large to make it past the lungs natural defenses. If you get a scratchy sensation from silica wicks just replace it with a new one.

Link: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ca-wick-not-safe-will-help-5.html#post7846987

This may help with the temperature of the metal.
GlowChart-sm.jpg
 

wolcen

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Good thread. I have tried to follow along but am not clear about something. From what I understand, wouldn't a non-oxidized ss wick (only boiled for sterility) with cotton insulating the wick and coil (string or cotton ball method) solve the issue? This should avoid the chrominum and reduce the shorting issues. Am I missing something? Thanks for any input. Just trying to understand.

Go Quiqsticks! :)

I was thinking I'd try the Petar K (that's for that link kwalka) method first though since there's such minimal heating there. Can always add the cotton conversion if I can't get it.
 

Boden

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.Now, I don't understand anything about chemistry but would it be possible to boil the mesh after oxidizing it to remove those harmful residues if they are in fact being created?

That is a very interesting idea.

This is purely theoredical, if CrVI is present on the wick it should be soluble in water. Boiling the oxidized wick might dissolve any soluble CrVI into the water leaving only the insoluble forms behind. The problem created is, what do you do with the contaminated water. I'll keep this in mind for later tests/discussion if necessary.
 

Bmays

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I remain very optimistic that any findings with the mesh sent to the lab(s) will not be positive for the Chromium. They may find other things that we would probably rather not know about though:p

The FDA has proved time and time again their main focus is for monetary gain and how many times have we all hear "If you or a loved one took "xxxxxxxxx" you may be entitled to......." on TV, BUT its stuff like this that help aid their intervention in electronic PV's.

I would like to believe with the use of SS mesh being world wide, and used buy some highly educated people, that this would have been brought up on one of the many global forums already.
 

Boden

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Here they are... soon to be analyzed using Inductively coupled plasma atomic emission spectroscopy. I'll miss the little guys ;)

test1.jpg

All 70/30 pg/vg 14mg/mL with no flavoring (the fewer unknown things in the solution the more accurate the results)

1. heated for 30 seconds ~1800degF
2. heated for 20 seconds ~1400degF
3. heated for 10 seconds ~900degF
 

Bmays

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Here they are... soon to be analyzed using Inductively coupled plasma atomic emission spectroscopy. I'll miss the little guys ;)

View attachment 178926

All 70/30 pg/vg 14mg/mL with no flavoring (the fewer unknown things in the solution the more accurate the results)

1. heated for 30 seconds ~1800degF
2. heated for 20 seconds ~1400degF
3. heated for 10 seconds ~900degF

Good deal. Any ETA on turnaround time?
 

gdeal

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Here they are... soon to be analyzed using Inductively coupled plasma atomic emission spectroscopy. I'll miss the little guys ;)

View attachment 178926

All 70/30 pg/vg 14mg/mL with no flavoring (the fewer unknown things in the solution the more accurate the results)

1. heated for 30 seconds ~1800degF
2. heated for 20 seconds ~1400degF
3. heated for 10 seconds ~900degF

How are you measuring temperature?
 
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