What do you mean? And I had no problems at all when using an oxidized wick.
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What do you mean? And I had no problems at all when using an oxidized wick.
20 minutes with a water change. Probably unnecessary after washing with soap but it removes any chance of off flavors.
@junkman
PWM mods are harder on the coil because of the peaks of the pulse compared to a mechanical mod, or a provari or the dna modules.
Personally I find it very hard to setup a new coil with the vamo
I prefer a mechanical mod for that...
PWM mods are harder on the coil because of the peaks of the pulse compared to a mechanical mod, or a provari or the dna modules.
Personally I find it very hard to setup a new coil with the vamo
I prefer a mechanical mod for that...
cv96144:8646679 said:@junkman
PWM mods are harder on the coil because of the peaks of the pulse compared to a mechanical mod, or a provari or the DNA modules.
Personally I find it very hard to setup a new coil with the vamo
I prefer a mechanical mod for that...
I guess that is possible, but sounds unlikely to me.
I think more likely that my coils are to close to the wick, maybe. With the lack of oxidation, the susceptibility to shorts is higher so I guess I just have to work harder next time
@junkman
PWM mods are harder on the coil because of the peaks of the pulse compared to a mechanical mod, or a provari or the DNA modules.
Personally I find it very hard to setup a new coil with the vamo
I prefer a mechanical mod for that...
That's strange. Perhaps something else is affecting your vamo setup.
33hz means a cycle of about 3 hundredths of a second, which means in each 3 hundredths of a second cycle your vamo will produce exactly the same heat as a DC mod (for Vrms = Vdc).
3 hundredths of a second or less is not enough to significantly heat the coil. For example, if your coil/voltage setup is set for 10 watts, in 3 hundredths of a second the coil will receive 0.3 Joules, or less than a thermoCalorie.
Peaks, no peaks, for each of those tiny periods of time the energy released is the same, and it's not that much.
Good to know, thanks!
I assume it will literally be boiling for the duration, and not just sitting in water that had been brought to the boiling point. If not, please correct. Thanks.
My limited experience with the old Vmax, it would routinely take my ox setups that were running like gold on the Provari and short them to death.
I had more than my share of 'that doesn't make sense' comments from the max-ites (same brain surgeons that told us all 'it just hits harder'...yeah that one panned out real well). But hey just my experience.
I had more than my share of 'that doesn't make sense' comments from the max-ites (same brain surgeons that told us all 'it just hits harder'...yeah that one panned out real well). But hey just my experience.
I use a small stainless steel cup (like 6 oz or so), so it comes up to boil in just a minute or two. But I would get it boiling then drop the mesh in. You can do a whole sheet at once. Sometimes stuff floats to the top, oil from your hands or machining etc.
Never owned a Vmax, so if that's your experience, there should be a reason for it.
(Other than the "peaks" thing).
I think has more to do with the explicit voltage being pushed through the coil. If you look at the charts on PBusardo's site the SmokTech circuitry (same in VV Gripper, VMax, ZMax, VAMO, etc...) is regulated by the amount of time running at 6v (alternating with 3.0). So for a 5.0v output it's running 6v for a ~67% duty cycle. So that leads me to think at the instantaneous timeslices when it's firing, it's firing hot. That's also why they needed to recalibrate the output algorithm from mean to root-mean-square. In the example above, mean would have shown an output of 4.5v instead of 5.0v. My memory of the exact numbers may not be exact but I think the theory is correct.
I believe this is also why there is a programmed 1.2ohm lower threshold even though the devices are listed as having 5amp switches (a Provari with a 3.5amp switch can handle 1.0 at 3.0v).
I believe this is also why there is a programmed 1.2ohm lower threshold even though the devices are listed as having 5amp switches (a Provari with a 3.5amp switch can handle 1.0 at 3.0v).
They had to change the output algorithm because they were dumb: Vavg of a pwm wave does not produce the same power as Vdc when applied to the same resistance. In this context, power is not directly proportional to voltage, but to the square of the voltage, so rms has to be used. (But it was probably easier for them to display Vavg).
The firing hot in the timeslices thing I addressed a few posts back. It's doesn't work like that.
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Think of it like a water pipe (electricity follows similar physical models). If I have a pipe with welded joints rated at 5psi and I alternate pressure between 1psi and 9psi the average would be 5psi which should be safe for the welds. Under real world conditions, the welds would pop from over stress eventually.
(And yes, this is an over simplification that doesn't take into account a bunch of other measurable variables)
(And yes, this is an over simplification that doesn't take into account a bunch of other measurable variables)
I don't know junkman. Did you do a juice burn off on the wick before using it to coat it? I did a juice coat three times. I don't know if that would make any difference but I did that with mine and its has worked fine with the Vamo.
Also the coil itself sounds like the problem - I think to do with the wrap tension or it may be too tight. I had one on my Phoenix that acted intermittently crazy because it was wrapped too tight.
I am happily surprised that less oxidizing of the mesh is working good for me... just roll it and burn the coil end just one decent time.
One factor is the thicker 28g A1 Kanthal is actually more forgiving perhaps because its so thick... you need a mechanical device though, for 1.0 and less Ohms.
One factor is the thicker 28g A1 Kanthal is actually more forgiving perhaps because its so thick... you need a mechanical device though, for 1.0 and less Ohms.
That is what I am guessing. It has been good again since this afternoon.
That analogy doesn't apply to this, but I'll stop answering here because of the off-topic.
If you want to discuss it send me a pm.
Ok I waded thru this thread and a couple of ancillary threads and with all the differing opinions I'm totally confused.
a) I have A7's, I rebuild them with 32 Kanthal wire and 1.5mm silica wick.
b) I have AGA T2's coming, I thought I was going to use them with SS mesh and Kanthal ribbon.
c) So far I've read silica is dangerous, SS is maybe dangerous, all the SS YouTube things I've seen may or may not be wrong.
In April the FDA may throw us off the cliff with no net so I've been investing in RBA's. Tonight I read all this stuff and now I am scared to use anything. There has to be a middle ground between scared stiff and happily oblivious. Where is it?
Perhaps I am too old to worry about possible damage at 73 yrs of age. but who knows that for sure. Is there any consensus in sight?
a) I have A7's, I rebuild them with 32 Kanthal wire and 1.5mm silica wick.
b) I have AGA T2's coming, I thought I was going to use them with SS mesh and Kanthal ribbon.
c) So far I've read silica is dangerous, SS is maybe dangerous, all the SS YouTube things I've seen may or may not be wrong.
In April the FDA may throw us off the cliff with no net so I've been investing in RBA's. Tonight I read all this stuff and now I am scared to use anything. There has to be a middle ground between scared stiff and happily oblivious. Where is it?
Perhaps I am too old to worry about possible damage at 73 yrs of age. but who knows that for sure. Is there any consensus in sight?
To avoid further threadjacking, does anyone have a link to a thread discussion setups w/ un-oxidized mesh. Junkman, my experience is similar, I get what looks like a 'perfect' glowing coil. It's stable for 15 mins to a couple hours then goes south. I'm using either a Gripper or Vamo for this. Don't have a mech mod, maybe I should try with a Provari .
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