Seems this setup with SS mesh and coil is causing the coil to ground to the body of the RBA. So how about something non-metal for the body of the RBA? Maybe even wood? This would obviously be a manufacturer's problem, but there are plenty of heat-resistant composites that could be machined and used. Job for a 3D printer?
There may also be heat-resistant epoxys that one could dip the end of the wick in, remain attached to the wick, and be flexible, while adding a dielectric between the coil and the wick. Heat resistant, however, may not mean it does not give off anything in the vapor.
Just tossing things out...
Hi Kurt,
Just tossing THIS out there...
Why not just drill out the hole that the SS Mesh Wick is inserted into, line it with a Silicon Sleeve (a material like those within other devices like the Vivi Nova, etc.), insert the Wick through that, and insulate the Mesh from the Ground like this? There are Silicon Sleeves available with a T-Top, to keep it from slipping through.
All this talk about Epoxies, Dip Treatments, etc., for the Mesh, and Ceramic Paints for the Coil, etc., just sounds a bit overboard to me, and frankly, it Scares me. No insult intended, but I don't see a wooden RBA body being practical. And what kinds of Materials are used in a 3D Printer? Could that even remotely be safe for Vaping? I really don't know, but why?...
The thought of moving to other materials for the RBA (or any Tank, etc.) seems ludicrous to me.
More unknowns. Let's just stay with our SS Devices (or whatever metals they are made of), and adjust them as necessary. There are easy ways to insulate, if the Wick is being Grounded to the RBA, and a Silicon Sleeve is one.
It also seems to me that the most common problems are not really due to anything being Grounded, but more due to the Coils shorting out on the Mesh, when said Mesh is no longer Oxidized by Torching, and the Coil is not Oxidized at all, either. Cyrus found a wonderful way to prevent this, without oxidation of the Mesh, by a kind of Glow Burn of the Coil, keeping it Wet with Water (some people use Juice). That's quite a few pages back by now, but I'm sure that Cyrus would be happy to give you an update, maybe even jumping in to post what works for him again. I'm sure that others have their own success stories as well. But it's really more a matter of Technique.
Another problem is wrapping the Coil too tight around the Mesh. Another Technique issue. People are using Ribbon Kanthal with much greater success. Others are using regular Kanthal of a larger Diameter than 32 AWG.
Please... let's keep it simple, or at least as simple as possible.
There's my
