Stainless Steel mesh, Oxide discussion.

[EDO]

You guys are complicating things here....you don't need to oxidize SS mesh at all for it work.....try the petar K method. Or you can insulate the ss mesh with some cotton....I have a post regarding this in the modders forum were I discuss both methods and help people set up using both methods. Also Petar K has a great post where he teaches people how to set up using his method.

Again you don't need to torch the ss mesh at all for it to work. You don't need to even dry burn the ss mesh to clean it. Since finding out that there might be a potential harm in the use of oxidized mesh I don't even lightly torch my meshes and I never dry burn anymore either. I think If you don't torch your meshes and you don't dry burn to clean the wick/coils of gunk.... then the use of ss mesh as a wick should be safe.

 

[urahara]

Also Petar K has a great post where he teaches people how to set up using his method.

can you post this link?
I am using a ribbon kanthal and provari (I dont have mechanical mod), can I use this method, or I would only get Ex errors?

 

[dsy5]

If the potential for Cr toxicity exists, I would be more comfortable torching/oxidizing the wick prior to using it, whether or not you actually need to or not to get a working wick. Better to try and rid the ss of it beforehand, rather than take the easy peasy route.

 

[Chris474]

can you post this link?
I am using a ribbon kanthal and provari (I dont have mechanical mod), can I use this method, or I would only get Ex errors?

I don't have the link but if you use SS, the concept is simple...genious, but simple.
1. Wrap a coil really tightly around around a 3/32 drill bit
28g kanthal works great
2. Insert the bit into your RBA wick hole
3. Attach the leads +/-
4. Roll the SS wick - I lightly lighter flamed, no torching.
5. Remove the bit and slide in the wick
The work should be pretty loose here, non-oxidized.
6. When it fits loosely, remove it & wrap a very wispy 1/2 x 1/2 inch piece of cotton on the top.
7. Now it should fit snug with the added cotton...you can screw it into your coil for ease of insertion.

Vape away!


Yes you can...I have an AGA-T with the Peter K method coil and non-oxidized SS mesh wicks with the cotton-condom on both the Provari and the Vamo, no errors and both coils run about 1.3-1.4. Good luck.

Also its worth noting...I'm actually getting more vapor this way than with SS alone!

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Chris474]

If the potential for Cr toxicity exists, I would be more comfortable torching/oxidizing the wick prior to using it, whether or not you actually need to or not to get a working wick. Better to try and rid the ss of it beforehand, rather than take the easy peasy route.

Dsy5, I'm an I.T. geek, not a scientist, but my read of all of the chatter here was that the torching of the SS could be what potentially releases the bad Cr hexa-whatever (the bad stuff from that Julia Roberts film i think) from the SS....

Anyone who's been following, am I good on this point?

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[dsy5]

Dsy5, I'm an I.T. geek, not a scientist, but my read of all of the chatter here was that the torching of the SS could be what potentially releases the bad Cr hexa-whatever (the bad stuff from that Julia Roberts film i think) from the SS....

Anyone who's been following, am I good on this point?

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

Not sure about that either, it would be nice if there were a chemically unchallenged reader that could explain exactly what and where the danger/harm is coming from.

 

[pmos69]

can you post this link?
I am using a ribbon kanthal and provari (I dont have mechanical mod), can I use this method, or I would only get Ex errors?

Here's a nice tutorial : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jd9pnVoO9s8

 

[Kurt]

Not sure about that either, it would be nice if there were a chemically unchallenged reader that could explain exactly what and where the danger/harm is coming from.

Evidently a way of making the wick not short out the coil is to torch the wick, which produces a layer of metal oxides (non-conductive). The issue is if these oxides are themselves dangerous. They may contain a particular oxide of chromium (Cr(VI)) that is toxic, but we have yet to get the test results back that would determine if it is present.

I don't have a RBA, just going by pictures here, but suppose the housing that the wick is sticking out of was not metal, rather a heat resistant composite. Would this allow contact with the coil and SS wick, but keep the wick from shorting the coil? I may be wrong here, but is the metal housing the ultimate source of shorting the coil?

 

[Uma]

I just googled drinking water and became so paranoid about water I may never touch another drop.

 

[EDO]

can you post this link?
I am using a ribbon kanthal and provari (I dont have mechanical mod), can I use this method, or I would only get Ex errors?

Yes you can do this on a provari...but it will be a pain because you might get some error messages...especially the first time you try it out. Don't use 28g wire since you will never get it to work. Use 30g wire.

I might get a lot of crap for this but let me do you the biggest favor and give you the best advice. Get a mechanical mod and get some 28g wire and set up using the petar k method. with a mechanical mod and 28g wire you will have the easiest set ups and the most stable set ups...best flavor and best vape....smooth as silk. My VV/VW devices are voltmeters now. I never touch them. I don't want derail the thread here so if you have more question ask me in my post in the modders forum.

Here is PetarK's link: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-unoxidized-hot-spot-free-cleanable-coil.html

My link: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/363175-petar-k-method-hybrid-wick.html

 

[Boden]

I got bored today and mesured the diameter of some silica wicks I gathered.

They were all between 20 and 32 micron, too large to inhale deeply.

These pics are the small versions. I scanned the fibers at 6400 PPI ie 1 pixel = 3.96875 micron. If you zoom in to pixel depth you can calculate the diameter by counting the pixels. The larger files are here: http://s963.beta.photobucket.com/user/revboden/library/silica fiber


Edit: Gahhh!!! I can't get photobucket to stop resizing the images. The originals are about 4 times the size photobucket shows

 

[Boden]

I don't have a RBA, just going by pictures here, but suppose the housing that the wick is sticking out of was not metal, rather a heat resistant composite. Would this allow contact with the coil and SS wick, but keep the wick from shorting the coil? I may be wrong here, but is the metal housing the ultimate source of shorting the coil?

It could be, there are basically an infinite number of paths the electrons could take. It seems likely if someone is getting a hot positive leg (that's the bit of wire between the positive post and the first wrap) that the wick has a rather good ground short in the wick hole. The coil wire could have a ground short at the negative leg, somewhere along the coil, or the wick hole. Fact is every short is different because the oxide coating is not a insulator, it's a semiconductor much like the resistance wire. As long as the resistance in the coil wire (resistance per distance) is less than the path through the wick the electrons will take that path. I suspect putting a little silicone spacer between the top cap and the wick would help in some cases.

 

[Jimi D.]

Thanks Boden. Anyone interested in a DID atty ? I need a Penelope now.

 

[studiovap]

I just googled drinking water and became so paranoid about water I may never touch another drop.

Everything is toxic if you dig deep enough

 

[Uma]

Everything is toxic if you dig deep enough

So very true.
I found this funny though, as we are trying to save ourselves from one possible mishap, we accidentally add even more possible mishaps to the equation. Even distilled water has it's questionable contents at any given time.

Does the heat from the boiling water "oxidize" the mesh, like the heat of a flame does? Heat is heat...

 

[Boden]

Does the heat from the boiling water "oxidize" the mesh, like the heat of a flame does? Heat is heat...

212°F temp of boiling water ≠ 2,600°F butane flame so... no

 

[Cool_Breeze]

If reality was real, we would all agree. Oh, really..?

 

[Koman]

Cool stuff, didn't know you can measure them like that.

 

[Kurt]

Stainless steel is called stainless due to general resistance to oxidation (staining). Even if boiling water caused oxidation, it would never result in Cr(VI). You need anhydrous conditions for that, and a lot of heat. Boiling juice would be the same as boiling water. Without high-T torching, or some very aggressive chemical reaction, which is not even remotely possible in a PV, stainless steel remains stainless steel.

 

[Chris474]

Yes you can do this on a provari...but it will be a pain because you might get some error messages...especially the first time you try it out. Don't use 28g wire since you will never get it to work. Use 30g wire.

I might get a lot of crap for this but let me do you the biggest favor and give you the best advice. Get a mechanical mod and get some 28g wire and set up using the petar k method. with a mechanical mod and 28g wire you will have the easiest set ups and the most stable set ups...best flavor and best vape....smooth as silk. My VV/VW devices are voltmeters now. I never touch them. I don't want derail the thread here so if you have more question ask me in my post in the modders forum.

Here is PetarK's link: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-unoxidized-hot-spot-free-cleanable-coil.html

My link: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/363175-petar-k-method-hybrid-wick.html

I'm using both the Provari and the 28 gauge kanthal and I haven't seen a single error code yet...using a 8/9 coil Peter K style.

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