Stingray Clone Firing Button
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I broke down my switch again and put different magnets in there and I took that little bullet thing out, Im not sure what its name is but its that little anti spin piece, I think the nemesis switches have them too. But it doesnt get stuck now, fires like a champ. The buttom spins free now but at least no stuck switch.
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Took some 1.2mm copper wire and made a new needle pin, took the 2mm brass needle pin out and replaced it with the new one I made. No more sticky button. The new needle pin sits really loose but still stops the button from spinning.
ok so a google search of crunch stingray clone button brought me to this post and after reading threw this I tried a few things. One I tried using my real nemesis button and fired just fine but I am not going to sacrifice a $180 device for a $40 device to work. Then I took out the little pin and that worked but the button came unscrewed from the firing pin so that will be a pain if that happens often. then I tried replacing the pin with the nemesis pin and that worked well also so I think what I am going to do is order a nemesis pin and use that to fix the problem as again I am not going to sacrifice the use of my expensive mod for my cheap mod.
Find a local hobby shop that does models or trains. They should have a display of K&S brass and aluminum rods, tubes and shapes. For less than $3 you should be able to find appropriate sized brass rod. No need spending genuine mod prices money just for a replacement rice pin. You can also go the more expensive route and get pins from fatdaddyvapes, about $10 shipped I'd guess.
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Just wanted to say I did a google search as well, and finally after searching for nearly an hour, this thread came up.
I just got my stingray today, and until reading this thread, I figured mine was defective, or machined improperly.
I'm having the same issue everyone else is.....the button is real 'crunchy', and I have to push it RIGHT in the middle for it to fire properly.
This is my second mech mod....the first is a magneto with magnet switch...and the magneto switch/button is LIGHT YEARS ahead of this one......at least when comparing how they both function at the moment.
If I knew the stingray would have this problem, I wouldn't have ordered it.
BTW - Mine is from Infinite.
I've taken the switch apart about 5 times now, trying to find the culprit, and I noticed what another person noticed.
1) The end cap, and the metal ring that goes into it don't fit together tight enough. This causes a wobble, and I believe is part of the problem
2) the little anti-spin bullet that sits in the switch I think is part of the problem as well - it doesnt seem big enough.
I'm going to keep playing with the mod, and hopefully fix it....but as of right now, this is SOOOOO annoying. The switch on my magneto clone is PERFECT.....nice and smooth, completely opposite of this crunchy, awkward stingray switch.
I just got my stingray today, and until reading this thread, I figured mine was defective, or machined improperly.
I'm having the same issue everyone else is.....the button is real 'crunchy', and I have to push it RIGHT in the middle for it to fire properly.
This is my second mech mod....the first is a magneto with magnet switch...and the magneto switch/button is LIGHT YEARS ahead of this one......at least when comparing how they both function at the moment.
If I knew the stingray would have this problem, I wouldn't have ordered it.
BTW - Mine is from Infinite.
I've taken the switch apart about 5 times now, trying to find the culprit, and I noticed what another person noticed.
1) The end cap, and the metal ring that goes into it don't fit together tight enough. This causes a wobble, and I believe is part of the problem
2) the little anti-spin bullet that sits in the switch I think is part of the problem as well - it doesnt seem big enough.
I'm going to keep playing with the mod, and hopefully fix it....but as of right now, this is SOOOOO annoying. The switch on my magneto clone is PERFECT.....nice and smooth, completely opposite of this crunchy, awkward stingray switch.
I am having the same problem with my switch on the HCigar model I purchased. It didn't seem to be this bad the first day but I have had it for several days now and it has only gotten worse. I still really like this mod, so if someone can figure out how to best fix this please let everyone know. 8^)
Mine was crunchy too, i ended up taking it apart again and cleaning it up then lubricating it by wetting a qtip with a light lubricant (wd40 will probably work) then apply a tiny coat to the parts that contact each other, including dabbing a bit on the pin.
Works MUCH better now with only the very rare crunch.
This is the FT brushed model fwiw.
Works MUCH better now with only the very rare crunch.
This is the FT brushed model fwiw.
My button is crunchy a bit, I loosen it a bit and it seems okay. took some 600 grit sandpaper to the inside male threads and put a little Permatex brand anti-seize lubricant for metal on it and it is doing better. I don't vape on it much because of the button. Glad I have a clone though I would be ...... if I spent $190 on the real thing! I have the Infinite.
I have the Hcigar Stingray and have a very weird problem. I have 6 Efest purple 18650 batteries of which only 2 of the 6 does the switch fire, the rest nothing. all 6 work on my hcigar nemesis, my Epro Maraxus and my VTR. if i screw the Nemesis switch on it the stingray it fires all 6. I have taken the switch apart ran it thru a uc, put it back together and still same issue. They only thing i can figure is the battery contact isn't flat its concave, so its only making contact with the battery negative end in a fairly narrow ring, where all the rest of my mods have a flat negative contact.
Any ideas? or what to use to get a flat surface?
update: Cant believe it, I found the issue, the plastic covering on the negative side of the battery is inconstant in size, on some of the batteries the exposed contact is smaller in diameter than others.
On any mod with a flat negative contact this doesn't matter as it makes contact over the whole surface, so if a small part of the contact is on the plastic it doesn't matter, but the concave one due to its width it does affect it. the batteries that don't work all have the smaller diameter of exposed contact. As a test i trimmed back the plastic on one of the batteries a little bit and now it fires.
still would prefer not to do this on any others as its possible they may peel and short against the tube eventually.
hmm how to get the contact flat without affecting the voltage drop too badly?
Any ideas? or what to use to get a flat surface?
update: Cant believe it, I found the issue, the plastic covering on the negative side of the battery is inconstant in size, on some of the batteries the exposed contact is smaller in diameter than others.
On any mod with a flat negative contact this doesn't matter as it makes contact over the whole surface, so if a small part of the contact is on the plastic it doesn't matter, but the concave one due to its width it does affect it. the batteries that don't work all have the smaller diameter of exposed contact. As a test i trimmed back the plastic on one of the batteries a little bit and now it fires.
still would prefer not to do this on any others as its possible they may peel and short against the tube eventually.
hmm how to get the contact flat without affecting the voltage drop too badly?
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My Hcigar ray does the same thing, gave me problems with the different batteries and then gave me a problem with the 510 pin. For me at least it was the 510 floating pin, it wasnt making contact. One day it would fire and the next it wouldnt. But I did notice it acted weird when I switched out batteries.
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After having the same problems with a sticky, crunchy, and sometimes stuck firing button, I am glad I found this thread. I looked up a breakdown video on youtube because the switch seemed a bit foreign to me, but once I was able to figure out how to disassemble the switch, I simply wiped down the grimy grimy threads and the innards of the switch itself. Threw it all back together, and viola, it's working as intended. As much as I enjoy this Infinite clone of the Black Copper Stingray, it was more dirty than I have ever seen in a clone as of late.
So, to sum it up, like others have said, break down the switch itself and wipe down every single piece in there. It works wonders!
So, to sum it up, like others have said, break down the switch itself and wipe down every single piece in there. It works wonders!
My first brass Stingray clone fired perfectly, I liked it so much I ordered another and this one isn't just crunchy, it's misfiring, and often sticks while firing. After more than a few strip-downs, repeated cleaning of the switch, etc, I give up, it's going back. It's basically down to the quality control of whichever shenzhen factory made it. I'd be bothered if it was an original JD Tech Stingray but it's not. I don't advise using a nemesis switch to fire an ailing stingray, it has no venting.
I can't believe how such a popular mech device is so faulty... I had been researching them because i have liked the Nemesis contact/ button/switch system for ease of setup and was very interested.
but with all the button issues, why bother?
still it amazes me why there are so many being sold.... lol.
but with all the button issues, why bother?
still it amazes me why there are so many being sold.... lol.
in theory the switch is great. in reality both the clone and jd I can no longer stand to use. mods with brass contacts and springs most usually operate far superior to these. plus overall I prefer the more linear action of springs.
Thought I would add my 2 cents, I had the same problems as everyone else... I have an Infinite clone of the black stingray
I dissassembled the switch and took the dremmel with a small polishing wheel and buffed the switch post and inside of the threaded ring to a high polish.
Part 2 - clones are not machined as precise as the authentic...so if you can wiggle the switch side to side when assembled , there is too much space. The authentic is so close there is no switch wobble.
I searched for a slightly thicker rice pin to make the gap a little smaller, ended up with a copper finish nail from Home Depot that worked out well, I mounted the nail in a drill and used sandpaper to grind it down to the perfect size.
I finished it off by adding a touch of graphite power to the switch post and reassembling everything... Works fantastic!
I had a problem with certain Atomizers not firing as well, that was a much easier fix!
If you look at the top cap... See if the black ring holding the floating pin is seated all the way. I found that mine was kind of cocked and not inserted all the way.
I used a nut driver bit that only touched the black insulator part and on a flat surface gave it a tap with a hammer... And voila the insulator sank into the topcap another mm or so and now everything works nicely and the switch screws in a touch more.
I dissassembled the switch and took the dremmel with a small polishing wheel and buffed the switch post and inside of the threaded ring to a high polish.
Part 2 - clones are not machined as precise as the authentic...so if you can wiggle the switch side to side when assembled , there is too much space. The authentic is so close there is no switch wobble.
I searched for a slightly thicker rice pin to make the gap a little smaller, ended up with a copper finish nail from Home Depot that worked out well, I mounted the nail in a drill and used sandpaper to grind it down to the perfect size.
I finished it off by adding a touch of graphite power to the switch post and reassembling everything... Works fantastic!
I had a problem with certain Atomizers not firing as well, that was a much easier fix!
If you look at the top cap... See if the black ring holding the floating pin is seated all the way. I found that mine was kind of cocked and not inserted all the way.
I used a nut driver bit that only touched the black insulator part and on a flat surface gave it a tap with a hammer... And voila the insulator sank into the topcap another mm or so and now everything works nicely and the switch screws in a touch more.
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