Lots of people mentioned the spring problem with TC.
We all have different opinions. Mine is like this. I believe cloning hurts innovation. Imagine you built an iPhone app from scratch. Your idea, your hard hours of work. Your marketing dollars, your effort and time and you sell it for $1.99. Now you take the money you've made off that app and live off it while designing and financing your next app.
Meanwhile, While your out doing all of that hard work, someone comes out with the same concept, same design, changed the name to something similar, marks it down to $.99 and enjoys the fruits of all your hard work, innovation, and work you did. Now let's say 30 other people do the same thing with your app but make much worse versions of it which assists in hurting YOUR reputation while making unlicensed crappy versions of what you created. Where does that leave the innovator?
So we could talk about dollar amounts and say $200 is a lot more than $1.99, but it's still stealing. Whether it be Nike, NFL Jerseys, apps, attys, and rba's. Someone thought of it first, and because someone is buying a fake, someone else gets hurt because of it.
That's just my 2 cents for what it's worth.
Ok, I am well and truly flummoxed. My K4 won't wick anything unless I crack the seal at the drip tip tube-to-top cap connection. And even then I only get a bubble or two, and barely any vapor.
Juice valve is wide open. It's been re-wicked twice. Taken apart three times...
I am at a loss and willing to risk embarrassment to figure this out.
12 hours high altitude non-stop plain trip : zero leakeage
Are you sure the juice control is open?? When the K4 is on your mod you turn it clockwise.
Wattage? Wire? VG Ratio?
I use my Kayfun V4 from two weeks now. Works well, good flavor, TH, vapor production.
But in the meantime I discovered two things that I do not like at all.
First, when i open the base, always find lichid there. Not much, but is there and require cleaning. When i wash the base, too many small parts, always drop some And the base spring, was originally silver colour, now is black at one end, as would be oxidized. I do not like things lists before, becoming clear disadvantages compared with the simplicity of KL+
Secound, and this is the biggest problem, it will not work with DNA40 in temperature mod. I use my DNA 30 box mod home made and mechanicals mod, but a friend of my has Kayfun V4 and Vapor Flask DNA 40. He made a coil with Nickel200, everything was done perfectly and put Kayfun V4 on Vapor Flask in temperature mod. Then, when he press the fire button, the watts jump like crazy, almost always up to the value of 40 W. He contact Vapor Flask support, he think it was his fault, but but the answer that he received is that the fault is the Kayfun V4, his spring in the base is the issue. The exact answer was: The Kayfun 4 will act weired with nickel and read incorrectly due to a spring in the base.
My friend tried the same thing with Kayfun Lite Plus and everything worked perfectly in temperature mod.
I think these things are good to know before buying a Kayfun V4, especially as it is not cheap.
Or maybe I had higher expectations at 150 euro atty.
But I'm still curious if anyone has make it work with Nickel200 and a DNA 40 mos in temperature mod.
Have you ever been able to vape it? If not, then check the juice channels in the chimney and the deck and poke around with a toothpick - there may be some dirt stuck in the channels. If yes, then you've put it together incorrectly and something is not allowing for the juice to flow through or you have the juice control closed - although, you can only put the atty together and take it apart when the juice control is open - remember, twist clockwise to open the juice control.
So today I decided to take a deep breath, disassemble my kayfun and clean it and reassemble it. Well many things caught my attention.
First the juice control is now smoother. The issue I had with the 510 spinning freely was solved since I tightened it while pushing down the positive nut.
A tip 'o the atty to freerdogg, Aal_, valahul, and rodsky77 for their assistance. Thank you.
I suspect two possible culprits: either the chimney juice channels, or Ni200 temperature control wire/DNA40 issues.
The juice control is counterintuitive to me. I have to remember that closing it reminds me of turning on a water faucet. I'm sure I'll get used to it with a little more use but just have to remember that it is backwards to the way I understand on/off.
Mine doesn't read TC correctly if I forget to open the Juice Control. Clockwise to screw the 510 onto the mod, and clockwise to open the juice control, then TC works fine.
Also, I have the S-kit installed, so no airflow adjustment screw at all. TC still works fine, as long as I don't forget to open the Juice control.
All of this is based on less than one day of use, so someone correct me if my ignorance is showing.
Now, if I can just figure out why the 510 spins freely, I'll be one happy vaper.
Wonder when these are coming back in stock. Maybe by spring.
Mine spins too. I stuffed my thumb on it and tightened it as much as could, but it still wasn't very tight. I was in too big of a hurry to vape it, so I didn't give it much thought![]()