SvoёMesto KAYFUN 4
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I rewick this ever nite, I go through approx a tank and a half throughout the day in the plastic tank mode. Compared to my Kfl, you would think it was flooded every nite...the wick is so dark and saturated. It vapes perfectly, no gurgling or anything, just the occasional "pop" when I take a hit (which I like). I would like to play around with the JC, just to fiddle with it and learn how I can use it instead of seeing it as an on-off juice control. I think the 4.1, or whatever, should have some kind of notching or measurement of how far the ring is open or closed. No way can I remember how many spins or rotations I'm at, or where the deck height is at to utilize this feature.
I agree, it's def unique and says V4. I do think it looks best on box type mods. The bulged look on the flasks is perfect.
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Aaah, well... I'm gonna have questions, when mine arrives, that is for sure..
I think to myself - nice, you started with LEGO Technics rather than with Duplo
R
I think to myself - nice, you started with LEGO Technics rather than with Duplo
R
I think it looks great on both box mods and tube mods, especially after seeing the great pics on this thread.
Hope everyone has a happy and safe new year's!!!
Still playing around with coils, but this is my wick, it's juicy, and works well for me all day.
Japanese cotton. I pull off both of the harder coverings of the pad, use the softer inside only. No twisting it in, just feed through my coil, not tight but def some resistance going through. Cut to length then cool hair dryer to fluff the ends a bit more while still dry. Juice the wick and place directly on the deck and juice holes. I make sure the wicks do not get bunched together, very delicate the way I place. I also have to make sure not one strand of cotton is on the threads as it will pull my wick when screwing the barrel down. I want them on the juice feeds. Got it down to about 5 min.
Japanese cotton. I pull off both of the harder coverings of the pad, use the softer inside only. No twisting it in, just feed through my coil, not tight but def some resistance going through. Cut to length then cool hair dryer to fluff the ends a bit more while still dry. Juice the wick and place directly on the deck and juice holes. I make sure the wicks do not get bunched together, very delicate the way I place. I also have to make sure not one strand of cotton is on the threads as it will pull my wick when screwing the barrel down. I want them on the juice feeds. Got it down to about 5 min.
Back at you. I hope everyone has a great, safe New Years Eve and a fantastic and profitable 2015.
Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!
Why thank you!
Yeah that's my ugly mug!
That's not even my "good arm"...hahaha
I love all my artwork, but my right arm is "better"...
Any variance on a $200 RTA is too much - add the sensitivity of TP mode and you are asking for performance issues.
After spending 20+ years in an industry that required me to troubleshoot circuits, I would never recommend relying on spring tension to transfer an electrical current and expect a consistent outcome. While some people will find success in TP mode it isn't ideal. Add in you have the high probability of adding eliquid into the mix and the resistance will be all over the place. The pic below is after one tank and is something I see more and more as I rebuild it.
In kanthal mode, this variance is a non-issue IMHO. Given the nature of the juice control I don't see any other way to make it work without a spring.
A small copper sleeve the correct length in place of the compressed spring will do the job, of coarse the liquid control will have to be open all the way making good contact with the sleeve for it to fire. The liquid control can still be closed for filling. I don't use mine in any position other than all the way open anyway
I'm going to give this a try when my non-SM K4's arrive.
Come to think of it I'll probably use nickel plated brass because I have the right size.
I'm going to give this a try when my non-SM K4's arrive.
Come to think of it I'll probably use nickel plated brass because I have the right size.
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That's where mine lives, on the flask. And I have only run it with ni200 and every build has worked flawlessly. I guess I'm just one of the lucky ones. My 510 pin doesn't spin, I've never had juice in the base and the spring hasn't caused me any trouble, yet.
I hope everyone gets it figured out cuz I love my K4!
Happy New Year everyone!
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Happy New Year everyone! May 2015 be joyous, fun and prosperous year for all. Vape away folks.
Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!
Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!
I started working on a brass bushing for my spring, but I ran out of time this afternoon. I'll post some pix when I get it finished.
Ok, got my TP sorted out. It was the juice control. Well, actually it's the spring. Only seems to work properly when tensioned (JC fully open).
I used AAL's suggestion to hold the nut while tightening and while it helped, the 510 still spun after it got snug and I couldn't hold it anymore and keep it from spinning. Once fully assembled with the JC fully opened I put a screwdriver to the 510 again and it is fairly tight now but with enough force I can get it to spin. I guess it is just designed this way.
Anyway, I'm a happy vaper now. It's an awesome vape!
Happy new year to all of you. May you have a healthy and prosperous new year.
I used AAL's suggestion to hold the nut while tightening and while it helped, the 510 still spun after it got snug and I couldn't hold it anymore and keep it from spinning. Once fully assembled with the JC fully opened I put a screwdriver to the 510 again and it is fairly tight now but with enough force I can get it to spin. I guess it is just designed this way.
Anyway, I'm a happy vaper now. It's an awesome vape!
Happy new year to all of you. May you have a healthy and prosperous new year.
No more spring for me
I made the flange with .2mm of pre-load to insure good connectivity and allow for variations in the numerous pieces involved, some of which that didn't require close tolerances in the initial SM design. So as you can see, this leaves a .2mm gap when my juice control is open, which isn't enough to effect anything. With usage this gap will probably decrease as the cumulative dimension changes due to the deformation of the plastic parts involved.
I made the flange with .2mm of pre-load to insure good connectivity and allow for variations in the numerous pieces involved, some of which that didn't require close tolerances in the initial SM design. So as you can see, this leaves a .2mm gap when my juice control is open, which isn't enough to effect anything. With usage this gap will probably decrease as the cumulative dimension changes due to the deformation of the plastic parts involved.
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