It makes contact with the hex on the Center Post when JC is open. With this part installed, the spring isn't needed, unless you still want the ability to fire with the JC closed.
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SvoёMesto KAYFUN 4
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It makes contact with the hex on the Center Post when JC is open. With this part installed, the spring isn't needed, unless you still want the ability to fire with the JC closed.
Ok, so other RTAs should have this problem too? Just asking.
Don't have much experience with RTAs, but I manage my Nautilus so that it does not gurgle on any airhole.
R
I thought the same thing at first, but observe the following. The Provari top cap is not like a nut. A nut is threaded through, the top cap is not. Imagine a piece of tubing that was threaded on the inside about 1/4" deep. You could get a screw to go inside about a 1/4", but no further. The threads will interfere and make it stop. That's what is happening with the P3 and K4.
I measured the overall depth of the Provari top cap and the overall length of the threaded boss on the K4 adapter. There is clearance for the overall dimensions of about .008". The end of the adapter will not hit the bottom of the provari top cap. The threads appear to be the limiting factor here since the adapter is short enough to fit inside the top cap. Also, it can't be the floating pin bottoming out because I took the 510 out of the adapter and it still stops. The only thing stopping it from going down flush is the threads. Nothing else is in the way.
I inspected the parts with a dial caliper, drew them, assembled them and have a picture below to illustrate the issue. A picture should clear it up and this represents the actual parts. Notice the clearance at the bottom is greater than the gap. There is room for it to move down, but it doesn't. The K4's 510 pin is not installed, so nothing is touching the P3's contact pin, therefore I didn't draw it because it isn't important here. I hope you understand what I'm saying and illustrating.
Mtek's method would be my first choice: I'd put a little grease on the threads and try working them together to see if you can gain anything. (1/4 turn is probably all you need) I wouldn't try this without grease for fear of seizing, and once stainless threads seize, you're totally screwed
The way the threads are produced, I will guarantee it is the bottom threads in your Provari that are out of tolerance and causing interference.
You could modify the P3 connector, but there are so few threads on it to begin with, and I'd hate to make it weaker by removing any metal at all.
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I never even considered it might be a threading problem, just assumed the whole SM P3 section below the base (including the threads) was too long. But after seeing your post, and that the P3 top cap threading doesn't go all the down, it very well could be. I remembered the large beveled section on the ProVape 510 adapter so grabbed a comparison shot of the two.
I'd have to disagree that the Provari is out of tolerance based on my picture above of the large beveled section at the bottom of the ProVape 510 adapter. ProVape made it this way, for whatever reason. SvoeMesto needs to conform to their specs.
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With the P3 female threading being cut into the top cap there's no where for the SM male threads to go if they're too deep.
EDIT: Oops. Looks like Moonbogg covered all this. I really need to learn to catch up on a thread before posting.
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I agree it makes more sense to thread the top cap a little deeper to allow for maximum compatibility with adapters, rather than hoping the adapter hits the dimensional target perfectly. If its slightly too long, you have a gap. Granted the adapter could have been made with the threaded portion slightly closer, but it wasn't. It does look like the P3 has enough room for some more threading though.
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With the P3 female threading being cut into the top cap there's no where for the SM male threads to go if they're too deep.
That picture is worth a thousand words. Provape really dropped the ball on that one.
Maybe, and I'm totally just gonna pull this out of my ..., but it does make it easier to clean leaked juice out of the bottom of the well with no threading to try to get into.
Its just a tight space to work with and screwing it up is really easy. Off by just a little and you have an issue, you know, like my massive gap. Maybe I'll send my sketch to provape just for fun. Maybe we'll get lucky and they will comment on the issue in the P3 thread.
I know many of you ordered your K4 from Self-e-steam, and figured I would share part of an email that I just received from them...this also is informative for those still looking to order a K4 and had them in mind.
"As you may have read, according to the Dutch Act #456 dated 24.11.2014, from 1 February 2015 we are not allowed to sell atomizers with the capacity over 2 ml and e-liquids in bottles larger than 10 ml.. We did not expect that such regulation would come into force in The Netherlands before anywhere in the European Union.. This is sad and hard to believe, but we will comply with the law.
This means we are not able to sell most of our product range from 1 February 2015, including all atomizers and their parts from SvoeMesto, Atmomixani and other.. All our e-liquids will also be removed from the sale.. Almost all our products are already heavily discounted, so if you want to take advantage of this, please place your order before 31 January 2015."
All I can say is...wow
"As you may have read, according to the Dutch Act #456 dated 24.11.2014, from 1 February 2015 we are not allowed to sell atomizers with the capacity over 2 ml and e-liquids in bottles larger than 10 ml.. We did not expect that such regulation would come into force in The Netherlands before anywhere in the European Union.. This is sad and hard to believe, but we will comply with the law.
This means we are not able to sell most of our product range from 1 February 2015, including all atomizers and their parts from SvoeMesto, Atmomixani and other.. All our e-liquids will also be removed from the sale.. Almost all our products are already heavily discounted, so if you want to take advantage of this, please place your order before 31 January 2015."
All I can say is...wow
Holy crap. I just got my K4 from them two days ago. My god what a terrible shame. Such a great vendor is being crippled. This makes no sense objectively. It only makes sense if you want to put vape stores out of business because they are cutting into someone's profits, IMO of course.
Bottom line is Smoemesto designed and machined every threaded connection in the K4 the way threaded connections are supposed to be. Provape must have let one of their apprentice boys design their P3.
Technically, it's the Svoemesto part that doesn't fit the Provape part, since that is what came first. When you don't follow conventional design practices, this is what happens.
A shorter or less forceful draw is ideal for using an RTA with a tightened AFC and vise versa. The K4 is my first RTA that has had gurgling problems with a tightened AFC and I have had NO problems with any of my other RTAs that have their AFC set for a tight draw. Your Nautilus is working fine with a restricted air-flow and so should your K4.
Yeah, an all out assault on cigarettes' healthy alternative...in all probability funded by 'big tobacco'. You would think they would get behind something that would keep their users alive longer, thus allowing them to buy more product. Instead of trying to snuff it out they should evolve, like most business must do, when met with competition
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We don't know who screwed up and can't know without analyzing the designs of each device ourselves. There is nothing unconventional about Provape's thread. Its just not deep enough for the K4 adapter. How can you know if the K4 adapter is out of spec, or if the P3 is out of spec? Maybe they are both within spec and this is a tolerance issue that wasn't analyzed with the K4 in mind before production? Remember, most people don't have a gap, right? So where is the variation taking place? No way to know from our end.
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