SvoёMesto KAYFUN 4

[Snapdragon]

So I finally got around to a nickel build for my K4 (I know, what took me so long ...). Just a basic 28g spaced coil with 8 or 9 wraps around a 3mm mandrel got me .17ohms and it's been rock solid, not a single fluctuation, on my VS rDNA40 since Friday.

I had been using a Silo tank with the Aspire TSCs which are okay, but they don't hold a candle to this build.

 

[raitizz]

So I finally got around to a nickel build for my K4 (I know, what took me so long ...). Just a basic 28g spaced coil with 8 or 9 wraps around a 3mm mandrel got me .17ohms and it's been rock solid, not a single fluctuation, on my VS rDNA40 since Friday.

I had been using a Silo tank with the Aspire TSCs which are okay, but they don't hold a candle to this build.

Nice..
Well, there it is again - for ones it works flawlessly, the others can't get it to work.. same tank...

R

 

[Snapdragon]

Nice..
Well, there it is again - for ones it works flawlessly, the others can't get it to work.. same tank...

R

I didn't do anything special, just made sure everything was tight (especially the A9 screw because it will still work if it's loose, but not how it should) and I gave the spring a tiny stretch. I adjusted my setting before I attached the tank and let the whole thing sit for about 30 minutes before firing. I admit I was hesitant to try it because of all the things I've read but curiosity finally got the better of me and I'm glad it did. Sorry you're having issues and I hope you can get it worked out.

 

[raitizz]

I didn't do anything special, just made sure everything was tight (especially the A9 screw because it will still work if it's loose, but not how it should) and I gave the spring a tiny stretch. I adjusted my setting before I attached the tank and let the whole thing sit for about 30 minutes before firing. I admit I was hesitant to try it because of all the things I've read but curiosity finally got the better of me and I'm glad it did. Sorry you're having issues and I hope you can get it worked out.

Thanks, but I'm not doing Nickel. Kanthal's fine by me for now, but there have been some stories here.
Seems so easy what you did to get it work.

R

 

[tchavei]

So I finally got around to a nickel build for my K4 (I know, what took me so long ...). Just a basic 28g spaced coil with 8 or 9 wraps around a 3mm mandrel got me .17ohms and it's been rock solid, not a single fluctuation, on my VS rDNA40 since Friday.

I had been using a Silo tank with the Aspire TSCs which are okay, but they don't hold a candle to this build.

Nice..
Well, there it is again - for ones it works flawlessly, the others can't get it to work.. same tank...

R

It might be working but that doesn't mean it's OK.

A 8/9 wrap of 28 gauge ni on a 3mm mandrel is certainly not 0.17... I would say rather 0.13.. So where are the 0.04 Ohms creeping in?

If the build stays that way all the time, it won't hurt but just as those unaccounted 0.04 Ohms appeared, they can decide to leave at anytime

For reference, a 10 wrap 28 gauge on 2.5mm is 0.13-0.14 on an erlp and also on a kfl.



Regards
Tony

Sent from my phone through a keyboard or something like that

 

[BNEAT]

As some of you know, I've always had problems with poor juice flow and dry hits, probably because of my vaping habits, but I thought this was kind of funny:

That's an almost full tank of Boba's at room temp. I left it sitting there for about an hour and it never leaked a drop. I turned it upside down and back a again, but it remained vapor locked. I guess this makes sense being that there isn't any vacuum, but I tried it with 50:50 juice and I couldn't keep it from draining the tank no matter what I did.

...I guess it wouldn't hurt to increase the size of the juice holes in the Evaporation Chamber

 

[Snapdragon]

It might be working but that doesn't mean it's OK.

A 8/9 wrap of 28 gauge ni on a 3mm mandrel is certainly not 0.17... I would say rather 0.13.. So where are the 0.04 Ohms creeping in?

If the build stays that way all the time, it won't hurt but just as those unaccounted 0.04 Ohms appeared, they can decide to leave at anytime

For reference, a 10 wrap 28 gauge on 2.5mm is 0.13-0.14 on an erlp and also on a kfl.



Regards
Tony

Sent from my phone through a keyboard or something like that

I'm sure that makes sense to you Tony, and I appreciate the input but it is what it is. You're right, it's not "OK", it's perfect!

 

[tchavei]

And I sincerely hope it stays that way

Regards
Tony

Sent from my phone through a keyboard or something like that

 

[BNEAT]

I'm sure that makes sense to you Tony, and I appreciate the input but it is what it is. You're right, it's not "OK", it's perfect!

As long as that spring is in the circuit, then it's not perfect. It may work alright, but it's definitely not perfect.

 

[Snapdragon]

And I sincerely hope it stays that way

Regards
Tony

Sent from my phone through a keyboard or something like that

Thanks!

Just out of curiosity, how did you calculate the ohms without knowing the amount of the spacing between each wrap (aka the actual length of wire used)?

 

[tchavei]

Because it doesn't matter that much. Every FULL wrap adds less than 0.015 to the build and because you're compensating the increased inner diameter with one less wrap than my builds have.

You could also just go to steam vapor and calculate the resistance... It will be around those values

Regards
Tony

Sent from my phone through a keyboard or something like that

 

[BNEAT]

Just out of curiosity, how did you calculate the ohms without knowing the amount of the spacing between each wrap (aka the actual length of wire used)?

With 8-9 wraps there isn't enough room in the K4 to make up .03-.04 ohms with coil spacing. I don't agree that the spring is causing it, either. You might not wrap your coil as tight as he does, which could make a pretty big difference. Or it could be your meter, or mod, or who knows what.

I'm still sure the spring causes issue once in a while because the resistance does not repeat when you open and close the juice control. It's close, but on my 3-place decimal ohm meter it varies by as much as .012 simply by opening and closing the juice control. I don't mean a difference between open and close, I mean from open to close to open again.

 

[rcbell.N51]

As some of you know, I've always had problems with poor juice flow and dry hits, probably because of my vaping habits, but I thought this was kind of funny:

That's an almost full tank of Boba's at room temp. I left it sitting there for about an hour and it never leaked a drop. I turned it upside down and back a again, but it remained vapor locked. I guess this makes sense being that there isn't any vacuum, but I tried it with 50:50 juice and I couldn't keep it from draining the tank no matter what I did.

...I guess it wouldn't hurt to increase the size of the juice holes in the Evaporation Chamber

That's kinda cool. Obviously not for you, since it's leading to dry hits. Technically it should do this with any liquid I think shouldn't it? It's only when there's more vacuum in the evaporation chamber then there is above the liquid level in the tank that the surface tension is overcome and liquid is released into the chamber. But with a thick juice (I've never tried Boba's so I'm not sure how thick it is) you're going to have to close off air flow to almost nothing to get a strong enough vacuum in the chamber to draw liquid. I kinda want to pop my tank off to see if it does that with the 50:50 juice I'm using now.

This is one of those cases where I'd kinda condone a clone just so you could drill out those juice holes to see if that helps. Maybe it's all part of SvoeMesto's marketing plan and they plan to release a "thick juice chamber". Maybe Steam Tuners will release one, I see they've already come out with a nano chimney.

 

[MattB101]

Man that sucks... Buying a clone as a clone is a consumer choice but buying a clone thinking it's an authentic... That's just mean

Regards
Tony

Sent from my phone through a keyboard or something like that

No that's theft and fraud and illegal. Instead of .....ing about it maybe we should prosecute? Probably not because it would draw way too much attention to the vaping world, which we really don't need. I don't mind clones, heck I have a bunch of them myself but, ripping people off like that just ain't right.



Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!

 

[doofy666]

deleted...

 

[Moonbogg]

I got a "atty ohms too low" error and thought the #9 screw was loose again, so I checked it and it was perfectly tight. I don't know what caused the error, but at least I feel good about the screw and I have some confidence in it now. Seems giving it a good snap turn and tightening hard will keep it in place, at least so far.

Also, I added some chap stick (all I had on hand) to the juice control threads and o-ring, and oh my god what a difference that makes. It turns so easily and smooth now its just amazing. I will always add Vaseline or a similar grease to those threads every so often now. Before it was so rough and gritty and very hard to turn past that rough spot near the bottom. I can hardly even feel that rough spot now and since it is so smooth and silky, its much easier to tell when it fully opens and closes. Highly recommended. I admit that I am worried I am tasting chap stick in my vape, but that has to be paranoia i'm sure.

So, just a tiny bit of care and tweaking seems to have really improved this atty. Time will truly tell though to see if that screw holds long term and to see if that spring gets so gunky and oxidized that it won't make contact anymore. We'll see.

 

[MattB101]

I got a "atty ohms too low" error and thought the #9 screw was loose again, so I checked it and it was perfectly tight. I don't know what caused the error, but at least I feel good about the screw and I have some confidence in it now. Seems giving it a good snap turn and tightening hard will keep it in place, at least so far.

Also, I added some chap stick (all I had on hand) to the juice control threads and o-ring, and oh my god what a difference that makes. It turns so easily and smooth now its just amazing. I will always add Vaseline or a similar grease to those threads every so often now. Before it was so rough and gritty and very hard to turn past that rough spot near the bottom. I can hardly even feel that rough spot now and since it is so smooth and silky, its much easier to tell when it fully opens and closes. Highly recommended. I admit that I am worried I am tasting chap stick in my vape, but that has to be paranoia i'm sure.

So, just a tiny bit of care and tweaking seems to have really improved this atty. Time will truly tell though to see if that screw holds long term and to see if that spring gets so gunky and oxidized that it won't make contact anymore. We'll see.

Nah, hate to say it but you are tasting chap stick. I used a cherry chap stick from my wife and tasted it for about 1 tank load and then it went away. Don't think we are actually vaping it so much as the smell is affecting our tastes until it goes away. That said, won't be doing that again!

Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!

 

[Ryry0678]

Got my kv4 in today!!! Rocking a 0.15 ohm ni200 build on the vapor shark. Working really good. Using 80vg juice with 4s kit. Might have used to much wick. Any hints for wicking?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[raitizz]

Got my kv4 in today!!! Rocking a 0.15 ohm ni200 build on the vapor shark. Working really good. Using 80vg juice with 4s kit. Might have used to much wick. Any hints for wicking?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Less is more

R

 

[qorax]

All work and no play day today

With love from Dubai