SvoёMesto KAYFUN 4

[Kaoself]

Got my kv4 in today!!! Rocking a 0.15 ohm ni200 build on the vapor shark. Working really good. Using 80vg juice with 4s kit. Might have used to much wick. Any hints for wicking?


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Depending on how viscous your 80vg juice is, you could have some problem drawing enough juice into the chamber with the 4s wider airflow, and get dry hits.
Pull enough wick through the coil so that there is some resistance but not too much (a bit vague, I know), fluff the wick ends a little, and cut them off approximately 3mm outside the chimney.

What wicking material and coil diameter are you using?

 

[jaxgator]

It might be working but that doesn't mean it's OK.

A 8/9 wrap of 28 gauge ni on a 3mm mandrel is certainly not 0.17... I would say rather 0.13.. So where are the 0.04 Ohms creeping in?

If the build stays that way all the time, it won't hurt but just as those unaccounted 0.04 Ohms appeared, they can decide to leave at anytime

For reference, a 10 wrap 28 gauge on 2.5mm is 0.13-0.14 on an erlp and also on a kfl.

There is definitely additional resistance added by the atty (somewhere). I build all of my Erls exactly the same as my KF4. 30g twisted Ni200, 8 wraps, 3mm mandrel. On the Erls, this ohms out to .16Ω. That same build on my KF4 always seems to ohm out to .20Ω. This is using the same 3 decimal place ohm meter and mods.

With 8-9 wraps there isn't enough room in the K4 to make up .03-.04 ohms with coil spacing. I don't agree that the spring is causing it, either. You might not wrap your coil as tight as he does, which could make a pretty big difference. Or it could be your meter, or mod, or who knows what.

I'm still sure the spring causes issue once in a while because the resistance does not repeat when you open and close the juice control. It's close, but on my 3-place decimal ohm meter it varies by as much as .012 simply by opening and closing the juice control. I don't mean a difference between open and close, I mean from open to close to open again.

Hmm, I know that the resistance changes depending on if the JC is open or closed. I never thought to check if I opened it, closed it and then re-opened it to see if it is the same. I'll have to take a look at that and see.

 

[dwcraig1]

Here's how poorly the spring does under load:

So if anyone is interested in the voltage drop numbers taken from with the spring and with the sleeve here they are, as well as a picture of my crude little sleeve next to the spring.
Here is my voltage numbers measured off the screws that secure the coil with the spring installed and with the spring removed and the sleeve installed.
This was 2 second "hits" repeated numerous times adding a drop of juice to the coil when switching from spring to sleeve. I thought it hit way harder with the sleeve installed and these voltage numbers confirm it.
They are:
With the spring it ramps up to 1.54 volts and quickly settles to .80 volts.
With the sleeve it ramps up to 1.62 volts and quickly settles to 1.41 volts.
There it is folks.
View attachment 401004

Just to be clear this is when using TP mode which is roughly 10 x the load of Kanthal, using Kanthal or Nichrome it would pretty much go unnoticed.

 

[BNEAT]

Hmm, I know that the resistance changes depending on if the JC is open or closed. I never thought to check if I opened it, closed it and then re-opened it to see if it is the same. I'll have to take a look at that and see.

I tried it like a dozen times, and it would usually repeat within a few thousandths, but maybe 15-20% of the time it would go up a hundredth or more.

 

[HBcorpse]

Anyone having a leak above the SM logo?
I've got my drill bit pointing at the line where the leak is happening...

 

[Bronze]

Anyone having a leak above the SM logo?
I've got my drill bit pointing at the line where the leak is happening...
View attachment 409141

HB...is it juice or condensation?

 

[Mtek]

Anyone having a leak above the SM logo?
I've got my drill bit pointing at the line where the leak is happening...
View attachment 409141

No issues here, but I do have a couple complete SM replacement kits so if you need an auth oring just let me know.

 

[raitizz]

Anyone having a leak above the SM logo?
I've got my drill bit pointing at the line where the leak is happening...
View attachment 409141

Nope, mine's fine, no leaking whatsoever.
I grease my o-rings with a touch of Blistex..

R

 

[HBcorpse]

HB...is it juice or condensation?

That's what I thought at first, but it is juice.

No issues here, but I do have a couple complete SM replacement kits so if you need an auth oring just let me know.

Thank you for the offer, friend! I've got myself an authentic replacement kit as well...I was just hoping I wouldn't have to dig into it.

Nope, mine's fine, no leaking whatsoever.
I grease my o-rings with a touch of Blistex..
R

I've never lubed O-rings with anything other than what they'll be exposed to...in this case, it's whichever flavor juice I'm about to use.

I've read all these posts from our gang here, in regards to lubing with a number of different substances, and it's always confused me...because from my perspective (as an electro-mechanical engineer, that builds off-shore oil drills during the day, and hot rods at night) it's unnecessary to lube atomizer O-rings/threads with anything other than a drop or two of e-liquid, or even just some spit...

 

[Bronze]

That's what I thought at first, but it is juice.

Thank you for the offer, friend! I've got myself an authentic replacement kit as well...I was just hoping I wouldn't have to dig into it.

I've never lubed O-rings with anything other than what they'll be exposed to...in this case, it's whichever flavor juice I'm about to use.

I've read all these posts from our gang here, in regards to lubing with a number of different substances, and it's always confused me...because from my perspective (as an electro-mechanical engineer, that builds off-shore oil drills during the day, and hot rods at night) it's unnecessary to lube atomizer O-rings/threads with anything other than a drop or two of e-liquid, or even just some spit...

I can verify that disassembling a KFL that had its o-rings lubed with mineral oil is significantly easier than if they were lubed with e-liquid.

 

[raitizz]

I've never lubed O-rings with anything other than what they'll be exposed to...in this case, it's whichever flavor juice I'm about to use.
I've read all these posts from our gang here, in regards to lubing with a number of different substances, and it's always confused me...because from my perspective (as an electro-mechanical engineer, that builds off-shore oil drills during the day, and hot rods at night) it's unnecessary to lube atomizer O-rings/threads with anything other than a drop or two of e-liquid, or even just some spit...

Just my own experience and how I do it. Blistex and Beeswax and what not is a paste. A grease. It stays there. Much easier to take the top off. Just my 2 Eurocents. If juice or spit works for you (truth be told, I haven't even tried that, but will do next time; I know, juice is a common lube), then all is good.

R

 

[AngiBe]

First thing I will do is apply some Chapstick or whatever to the orings IF I can ever get to the deck! I swear this whole Kayfun 4 experience has been one hell of a nightmare.

First had to take the sucker to work to try and get the nut off. Had a young, strong guy do it for me (after I taped the needle nose pliers so it wouldn't scratch it) and he had a HECK of a time getting it unscrewed. He said "this is on way too tight, don't tightened it so much the next time" Uumm...I didnt..it came that way!

Take it home to disassemble and wash it up and can NOT get the chimney part off to get to the deck where it's suppose to come apart at the JC/SvoeMesto logo ring. Freezing it now for the third time. Why on earth does SvoeMesto think they have to crank these parts and pieces down so tight, especially since we have to build on it before we use it???????

 

[Mtek]

I'm sorry you're frustrated Angie. Please know the atty will be like second nature to you once you get comfortable with it and it breaks in. I use the nano tube exclusively, the chimney piece always stays in the tank, I unscrew tha build and I'm done. I never over tighten either way, just finger tighten and no issues. The beginning was difficult for me, and many others, initially. The vape, and the ease of wicking and use will be worth it so hang in there.

 

[AngiBe]

I'm sorry you're frustrated Angie. Please know the atty will be like second nature to you once you get comfortable with it and it breaks in. I use the nano tube exclusively, the chimney piece always stays in the tank, I unscrew tha build and I'm done. I never over tighten either way, just finger tighten and no issues. The beginning was difficult for me, and many others, initially. The vape, and the ease of wicking and use will be worth it so hang in there.

Well...I haven't even used it yet. This is brand new out of the package, not cleaned and not budging.

 

[HBcorpse]

First thing I will do is apply some Chapstick or whatever to the orings IF I can ever get to the deck! I swear this whole Kayfun 4 experience has been one hell of a nightmare.

First had to take the sucker to work to try and get the nut off. Had a young, strong guy do it for me (after I taped the needle nose pliers so it wouldn't scratch it) and he had a HECK of a time getting it unscrewed. He said "this is on way too tight, don't tightened it so much the next time" Uumm...I didnt..it came that way!

Take it home to disassemble and wash it up and can NOT get the chimney part off to get to the deck where it's suppose to come apart at the JC/SvoeMesto logo ring. Freezing it now for the third time. Why on earth does SvoeMesto think they have to crank these parts and pieces down so tight, especially since we have to build on it before we use it???????

If you can't get the chimney off, please make sure the juice control is open...
When the juice control is closed, it presses against the chimney, making the chimney next-to-impossible to remove.

 

[dems86]

Well...I haven't even used it yet. This is brand new out of the package, not cleaned and not budging.

I'm sure you've heard it before, but ALWAYS double check and make sure JC us fully open before removing the deck...I know, I'll shut up about that, but anyways...

...I put a micro screwdriver in one of the air holes whenever its a little hard to get off, doing that I've never had an issue removing the deck from the chimney...unless, of course, I've had a brain fart and JC was still closed

 

[AngiBe]

Thanks guys. Since I've been trying to get this thing off for now over 45 mins, my fingers are extremely sore and I'm spent trying to get this off. I will try it again tomorrow. I have tried (just in case) BOTH ways with the JC. This thing is not budging off. It is completely stuck and I mean stuck. The actually JC moves freely now but the chimney part is not coming off.

 

[dems86]

Thanks guys. Since I've been trying to get this thing off for now over 45 mins, my fingers are extremely sore and I'm spent trying to get this off. I will try it again tomorrow. I have tried (just in case) BOTH ways with the JC. This thing is not budging off. It is completely stuck and I mean stuck. The actually JC moves freely now but the chimney part is not coming off.

Heads up, you want to make sure you know JC is open, I wouldn't just try it both ways. Besides making it impossible to get off, I remember it being mentioned that damage could be caused by trying to force it off with closed JC... . Give the fingers a rest and get some leverage with a micro screwdriver or something else small enough to fit in the air holes, and placing it on a mod too, which you've probably already

 

[Mtek]

Thanks guys. Since I've been trying to get this thing off for now over 45 mins, my fingers are extremely sore and I'm spent trying to get this off. I will try it again tomorrow. I have tried (just in case) BOTH ways with the JC. This thing is not budging off. It is completely stuck and I mean stuck. The actually JC moves freely now but the chimney part is not coming off.

If it was me, I would put the tank back on. Grabbing the chimney you have little leverage. I am comfortable with mine, and I always take the tank section off with the chimney attached, together. Thumb on the SM logo, JC open, and twist the logo'ed base and tank counterclockwise or towards me. Every once in a while, I have to put a tack in an air hole on the JC ring, but still twist off with the SM logo.

 

[Bronze]

Thanks guys. Since I've been trying to get this thing off for now over 45 mins, my fingers are extremely sore and I'm spent trying to get this off. I will try it again tomorrow. I have tried (just in case) BOTH ways with the JC. This thing is not budging off. It is completely stuck and I mean stuck. The actually JC moves freely now but the chimney part is not coming off.

Frustrating! Ang, Matt from the other KFL thread had someone do a hot-cold-hot-cold-hot-cold sequence. Maybe get some water boiling and also a bowl of ice water Dunk it in one for 20 seconds then the other for 20 seconds and repeat for a few cycles. That shrink/expand action should loosen it up. Just don't dunk anything non metallic. I'm assuming the parts that are stuck are all metal?